FT : ‘You have to do things perfectly . . . but it’s so secret’ — how to build a

‘You have to do things perfectly . . . but it’s so secret’ — how to build an oligarch’s yacht
Designers from Norway, construction workers from Germany and UK crews balance discretion with flamboyance in the finished product

The industrial zone and sprawling lorry park in the small Dutch town of Oss give almost no indication of the opulent yachts being built inside nine covered dockside sheds, or of the identity of their clients or owners.

But Heesen, the local shipyard that boasts of “producing some of the finest superyachts in the world”, is part of a tight network of manufacturers and service businesses for the waterborne super-rich that is now under scrutiny because of their Russian oligarch clientele.

Heesen is ultimately owned by Vagit Alekperov, who runs the Russian oil company Lukoil and is under sanctions in the UK and Australia. The company, which says it is operationally independent of Alekperov, has built three “Galactica” yachts linked to him. It has also built two that are connected to the UK and EU-sanctioned businessmen Igor Kesaev.

It is one of a network of companies in the European superyacht supply chain stretching from designers in Norway to builders in Germany and Italy, brokers in Monaco and crews in the UK.

They balance discretion in their operations with flamboyance in their marketing and their finished products.

Many are now watching nervously as governments step up seizures in an intensifying campaign of sanctions against Russia because of the war in Ukraine.

Just this week, the Dutch government placed 18 yachts in yards under restrictions while their ownership is examined and confirmed that two further boats that are in the Netherlands for maintenance have links to sanctioned individuals.

Egbert Wattel, chief executive of Younique Yachts in Makkum, another Dutch shipbuilding town, describes a longstanding culture of secrecy even for builders of smaller boats like him: “Most owners don’t want everyone to know they’re building a yacht. It’s always been like that. It’s like being a doctor — you don’t mention who the patients are.”

Makkum has two huge dry docks — one 110 metres long and the other 120 metres — for outfitting superyachts, allowing ships to be finished while enclosed from every side. They can handle all but the very largest boats.

Ferrye Jansen works in a fish bar in the shadow of the “Cathedral”, one of these structures. He knows where a lot of his customers work. But they cannot tell him what they have been doing. “They’re buying their fish and their fries, but they can’t say anything. It’s classified! . . . I swam over there but couldn’t see anything.”

Russians began actively buying yachts in the 1990s as a select few made rapid fortunes following the collapse of the Soviet Union. Roman Abramovich, who made his money in oil, was an early adopter when he bought Sussurro in 1998.

Dozens of others followed his lead as the number of billionaires grew. Superyacht Times, an industry publication, estimates Russian owners today account for 9 per cent of the world’s 2,000 superyachts of at least 40 metres in length.


In the 80-metre-plus category, Russians own a fifth of the 153 ships, second only to Gulf state buyers. The world’s largest superyacht by volume, the 168-metre Dilbar now stranded in Hamburg, is owned — according to the US Treasury — by Alisher Usmanov, a sanctioned oligarch close to Putin.

Boat International, a research company, reports that Russian buyers account for about €3.9bn of a cumulative global order book of €35-€40bn. It says Italian yards are building the most superyachts for Russian clients, with 60 under construction, followed by the Netherlands and Turkey.

Some companies have adapted their marketing to the prevalence of Russian buyers. One person in the sector described an event hosted by a superyacht builder: “We were invited there and the only two languages spoken were Russian and English. All the entertainment for the event was by the Russian philharmonic.” The website of yacht builder Italian Sea Group, based in Carrara in Italy, is in Russian alongside Italian and English.

Russian buyers are known for having particularly expensive tastes. Alongside saunas, helicopter pads and even submarines, they ask for ultra-luxury fittings including rare tropical woods, special leathers and solid gold taps. “They are one notch below the Saudis,” said one broker.

A Dutch craftsman highlighted both an obsession with detail and secrecy as characteristic of the sector: “The standards are incredible. You have to do things just perfectly . . . but it’s so secret. If I did something amazing today, I can’t show my mum. I am not allowed to take a photo of my work.”

Superyachts are often owned through offshore companies, which disguises their ownership and can offer tax benefits. Sailing in international waters also provides some protection from authorities onshore.

A former coast guard in Antigua told the Financial Times that Russian superyachts often had armed private security guards. “We pretty much leave them [alone]. We can’t search a boat that big and we know if we do the owner might have a direct relationship with politicians so we need to be careful.”

Yet those that work in the industry say owners generally spend a few weeks a year at most on their yachts. While there is an active re-sale market, they also offer a low return on investment, given annual operating costs are typically 10 per cent of the purchase price.

The need for large crews — typically male for the decks, young and female for the interior and with a general preference for non-Russian speakers — as well as regular reprovisioning and online satellite tracking alongside their highly visible presence in harbours also means discretion is limited.

A number of Russians have invested in the industry nonetheless.

Heesen was bought by Alekperov more than a decade ago and is held via his Cyprus investment vehicle Morcell. The company said it “[condemned] violence in every form and [hoped] for a fast resolution of the war” and that it was “co-operating in full transparency with government agencies”.

Its non-executive directors Pavel Novoselov and Pavel Sukhoruchkin resigned after Russia invaded.

Imperial Yachts, a brokerage based in Monaco, was founded by Evgenny Kochman and his sister Julia Stewart in 2005 after several years of selling yachts to Russians. It remains a highly influential intermediary for Russian buyers, although it has since diversified its clients.


The company said: “IY is a global business with an international customer base, and we are confident that our business will continue as it is not dependent on any single geography. Whilst the sector will clearly be impacted it is hard to yet understand what that will be.”

Another broker, Burgess Yachts, a high-end outfit with offices across the globe, has a roster of Russian clients — both owners and those looking to rent at rates upwards of $500,000 a week.

The company appeared to remove details of 10 or more superyachts from its website after the invasion started. But an unredacted mirror website used for testing purposes remains active, allowing users to see which boats have gone.

These include Axioma, a 72-metre vessel owned by Dmitry Pumpyansky that was detained in Gibraltar last month and was previously available at €299,000 a week. Pumpyansky was sanctioned by the US as early as 2017. Sky, a boat owned by Kesaev that is valued at $40mn and measures 50 metres, was previously available to charter for $245,000 a week.

Burgess said in a statement that it “continues to monitor the ongoing situation in Ukraine closely and adheres to all compliance and guidance set out by the governments in territories that the company operates in”.

In Makkum, local business owners agree that superyachts are the town’s most important source of revenue. The yard employs 400 people directly, but also attracts a rotating staff of subcontracted specialists, who drink in the town’s bars and stay in its hotels.

But there is little sense of how the town’s economy will be affected by sanctions. Subcontractors often do not have clear sight of their ultimate clients. One said: “To be honest, we don’t have a good sense of who the clients are. Sometimes it comes out, or they visit. But I worked on something and I only realised who owned it when I saw it got seized.”

Others in the sector stress that they are careful to follow “know-your-customer rules” and have no desire to fall under the scope of sanctions. They also play down suggestions that the crackdown might hit business.

Rory Jackson, business editor of The Superyacht Group, a data and research company, said: “I don’t think it will make buyers wary. There is no sense buying such a vessel and then trying to make it inconspicuous.”

The Information : Why Silver Lake and Elliott Are the Wild Cards in the Twitter

Why Silver Lake and Elliott Are the Wild Cards in the Twitter Takeover Battle

he last time Twitter was under shareholder assault, from activist investor Elliott Management in 2020, Silver Lake CEO Egon Durban called Twitter CEO Jack Dorsey offering to help, according to a person familiar with the situation. Twitter accepted the outreach: Silver Lake invested $1 billion in Twitter and got a board seat, in a move unveiled as part of a broader peace deal in which Elliott also got a board seat.

In other words, Silver Lake was Twitter’s white knight. That was certainly the view of Twitter shareholder Orlando Police Pension Fund, which alleged in a lawsuit filed last year that Twitter did the deal with Silver Lake “to protect themselves from a high-profile proxy contest” with Elliott. Now the question is whether Twitter can find another white knight to defuse its latest crisis by buying out Elon Musk.

THE TAKEAWAY
The last time Twitter experienced a shareholder attack, Silver Lake emerged as a white knight to help. Silver Lake, or another private equity firm, could play the same role again.

Twitter on Friday announced it had adopted a poison pill in response to Musk’s $43 billion takeover offer this week, the first sign that the company plans to fight the bid. The pill stops Musk from raising his stake above 15% without board agreement. That means he can’t make a tender offer to take control. As he hasn’t yet lined up financing for his bid, such an offer probably wasn’t in the cards in the near term anyway.

Twitter still faces the issue of how to respond to his bid. That’s why the option for Twitter to find an investor to buy out Musk looms large. Musk opened the door to that option by indicating in a letter to Twitter chair Bret Taylor, when he announced his bid, that if his offer failed, he would “reconsider” his shareholding. While Twitter might surely welcome his sale, Musk dumping his entire stake would severely depress Twitter’s share price.

Silver Lake is a possible buyer, although its ability to do a deal would be complicated by the fact that its chief, Egon Durban, is on Twitter’s board. Another issue Silver Lake is under a standstill agreement that would prevent its purchase of Musk’s stake. It’s possible, however, that Twitter’s board would renegotiate that deal.

And Silver Lake could be an appealing white knight for Twitter, as it has a reputation for standing by the management of companies, such as Endeavor, in which it is an investor. Whether Silver Lake and Musk could reach a deal on the price may be the big problem.

Alternatively, Twitter may be able to find another private equity firm to jump in, particularly if it can find a way to sweeten the terms as it did with Silver Lake’s investment during the Elliott episode in 2020. Silver Lake bought $1 billion worth of convertible notes issued on terms so generous that it aroused the ire of the Orlando Police Pension Fund, which subsequently sued. The fund described the terms as “unreasonable and below market” in its lawsuit last year.

The investor alleged the convertible notes were issued “at a substantial discount to market prices.” The convertible notes convert into stock at $41.50 a share. That was just $9 a share above where Twitter stock was trading at the time. The investor noted that other convertible notes issued by Twitter in earlier years converted at much higher prices. In September 2014, for instance, Twitter issued notes convertible at $77.64, about 50% higher than the prevailing stock price at the time.

Twitter and Silver Lake declined to comment. Elliott did not respond to requests for comment.

Elliott Threat

If Twitter doesn’t line up a buyer, there is a risk that someone who isn’t friendly will buy Musk’s shares. One possible contender is Elliott itself.

While Elliott struck a peace deal with Twitter in 2020 after Silver Lake entered the picture, agreeing to limits on its share purchases, those restrictions lapsed when Elliott’s representative, Jesse Cohn, left Twitter’s board last year.

Elliott could be motivated to become active again, given that Twitter hasn’t done what it promised at the time of the peace settlement in 2020. In that agreement, Twitter pledged to make changes to corporate governance, including getting rid of its staggered board structure under which roughly a third of the board is up for election every year. That kind of structure makes it difficult for an outsider to take control of the board. A proposal put to shareholders last year to get rid of the structure didn’t get enough votes to pass, although Twitter is trying again this year.

Twitter also said at the time that it hoped to increase its daily active user count by 20% or more “in 2020 and beyond.” While DAUs grew 26% in 2020, they increased only 13% last year.

Twitter also said it wanted to accelerate revenue growth and gain share in the digital ad market. Revenue growth accelerated right after the pandemic but has slowed down in the past two quarters. Its first-quarter revenue growth is expected to slow again, to 18%, according to data from S&P Global Market Intelligence. As for its share of the ad market, that hasn’t grown in recent years, according to eMarketer.

Twitter hasn’t even completed a $2 billion share buyback program announced at the time of the peace deal: It bought back just $1.2 billion worth of stock through the end of 2021. Twitter recently announced a new $4 billion buyback program.

Moreover, Twitter’s introduction of a poison pill is precisely the kind of defensive measure activists dislike, because they insulate boards from outside pressure.

FT : Twitter launches poison pill to thwart $43bn bid by Elon Musk

Twitter launches poison pill to thwart $43bn bid by Elon Musk
Defence comes a day after Tesla entrepreneur offered $54.20 a share in cash to buy social media platform

Twitter has launched a poison pill takeover defence to fend off a $43bn hostile bid from billionaire Tesla chief executive Elon Musk.

In the first sign that the social media company plans to fight Musk’s bid, Twitter said on Friday that its board of directors had unanimously adopted a year-long shareholder rights plan to “enable all shareholders to realise the full value of their investment in Twitter”.

The board’s aggressive move, designed to block Musk from building a greater than 15 per cent stake in the open market, is likely to end the South African-born entrepreneur’s hopes of buying the social media company.

It comes as US private equity group Thoma Bravo has also expressed interest in taking Twitter private in what would be a rival bid to Musk’s, although sources said it was at a very preliminary stage and no offer has been made.

Thoma Bravo and Twitter both declined to comment.

Musk said this week that his offer was “best and final” adding that “if it is not accepted, I would need to reconsider my position as a shareholder”. A person close to Musk said that he was not going to budge on that position.

Under Twitter’s plan, existing shareholders will be able to buy shares at a discount if anyone acquires more than 15 per cent without board approval, diluting an unwelcome bidder.

Musk offered $54.20 a share in cash for Twitter, valuing the company at $43.4bn, days after he took a 9 per cent stake in the company to become one of its largest shareholders.

Twitter’s board is concerned that if Musk built a stake worth more than 15 per cent he could indirectly wield significant power over the direction of the company even without an executive or directorship role.

The only way for him to take over Twitter now is through a mutually agreed deal, which would need to carry a significantly higher price, said a person close to the company’s board.

Poison pills were developed as a defence strategy in the 1980s to protect companies from corporate raiders, and were widely criticised as a way for a company’s managers to entrench themselves against attack. Subsequent legal challenges reduced some of their effectiveness, and most academic studies have shown that while poison pills slow an unwanted takeover bid, they do not usually prevent eventual agreement after a negotiation.

Twitter said the plan could reduce the likelihood that a hostile bidder “gains control of Twitter through open market accumulation without paying all shareholders an appropriate control premium”, as well as slow any bid.

“The Rights Plan does not prevent the Board from engaging with parties or accepting an acquisition proposal if the Board believes that it is in the best interests of Twitter and its shareholders,” it added. The plan expires on April 23 2023, it said.

After his shareholding was announced last week, Musk reached a preliminary agreement with the company to join its board of directors, only to reverse course on Monday without explanation.

Musk then announced his offer on Thursday in a regulatory filing in which he said he would unlock the company’s potential to be “the platform for free speech around the globe”. Included in the filing was the transcript of a message he sent to Twitter, which said: “It’s a high price and your shareholders will love it.”

The offer represents a 38 per cent premium to Twitter’s share price since April 1, three days before his stake became public, although it is still 26 per cent below its 12-month high.

It is unclear how exactly Musk would fund the deal. In an interview after the announcement, Musk said he had “sufficient assets” to do so and intended to retain as many shareholders as possible. However, he conceded: “I’m not sure that I will actually be able to acquire it.”

Musk did not address the poison pill counterattack publicly on Friday, instead thanking his fans on Twitter for their “support” after they voted in favour of him buying the company in an online poll run by a bitcoin newsletter. 

WWD : Celine Launches Made-to-Order Crocodile Leather Handbag Line

Celine Launches Made-to-Order Crocodile Leather Handbag Line
The French fashion house is joining the ranks of luxury leather goods makers that are developing increasingly exclusive and rarefied products to cater to well-heeled consumers.
PARIS— Celine is launching a line of made-to-order crocodile leather handbags, joining the ranks of luxury leather goods makers that are developing increasingly exclusive and rarefied products to cater to well-heeled consumers.
The Celine haute maroquinerie collection, available beginning in October, will offer its bestselling 16 and Triomphe handbag models in Nile crocodile leather, which comes in 14 shades, including a dusty pink known as Marly and a rich chestnut hue called Riesener. Recognizable for its large scales, the exotic leather has been glazed to a high sheen with an agate stone.
Customers can pick from an assortment of hardware in 18-karat white or yellow gold, including closures that can be customized with diamonds, either in pavé or solitaire settings. In the ultimate example of stealth wealth, the Triomphe closure is offered with a solitaire on the concealed part of the clasp. Initials can be embossed into the goat skin lining.

A selection of hardware for Celine’s haute maroquinerie collection.
COURTESY OF CELINE
The house declined to disclose the price of the handbags, cementing their aura as status items for ultra-high-net-worth individuals.
The numbered bags will be produced by a dedicated artisan at Celine’s Italian leather goods workshop in Radda in Chianti in Tuscany, which overlooks rolling hills and vineyards. The artisan is responsible for the bag’s entire assembly, from the selection of skin to cutting and stitching.
“Each bag is created as a single piece. Leather cutting only occurs once an order has been placed,” the house said in a statement. Each custom-made 16 handbag takes 17 hours to produce, while the Triomphe requires 12 hours of labor.
Artistic director Hedi Slimane has been steadily growing the brand’s high-end offering, even as he courts the TikTok generation with buzzy collection films and $435 cropped tops. In February, he unveiled an ad campaign featuring Blackpink’s Lisa for his haute parfumerie collection, launched in 2019.
And the designer has sprinkled made-to-measure designs, often produced in collaboration with artists, into his ready-to-wear collections.
The 16 was his first design after joining Celine in 2018, and was famously unveiled on the arm of Lady Gaga, making her the first celebrity to wear Slimane’s designs for the brand. The flap on the made-to-order version has a crocodile underside, considered a technical feat because the leather is both delicate and stiff.
The 16 handbag in Nile crocodile leather from Celine’s haute maroquinerie collection.
COURTESY OF CELINE
Each haute maroquinerie bag comes with a mirror bordered in matching leather, and is delivered in a leather-line lacquered eucalyptus wood coffer, with a plaque that can be engraved with the owner’s name.
Parent company LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton has been doubling down on exotic skins, despite protests from animal rights campaigners, who want the luxury conglomerate to follow the example of Chanel, which said in 2018 it was halting the use of leathers including crocodile, lizard, snake and stingray.
Louis Vuitton recently inaugurated two leather goods workshops in France that specialize in bags made from exotic skins, while the renovated Dior flagship on Avenue Montaigne has an entire counter dedicated to bags made from rare materials such as crocodile, ostrich and python leather.


Celine said the skins for its haute maroquinerie collection have been sourced from a supplier certified by the International Crocodilian Farmers Association, a nonprofit association created to develop and improve crocodilian farming practices with respect for animal welfare, the environment, people and local communities.
They are treated by a tannery associated with the IFCA that is certified ISO 14001, an industry recognized standard based on environmental management compliance.

WSJ : Twitter Moves to Block Elon Musk From Increasing Stake

Twitter Moves to Block Elon Musk From Increasing Stake

Twitter Inc. TWTR -1.68% moved to prevent Elon Musk from significantly increasing his stake the day after he made a $43 billion unsolicited takeover bid for the social-media company.

The company on Friday adopted a so-called poison pill that makes it difficult for him to increase his stake beyond 15%. The billionaire founder of Tesla Inc. TSLA -3.66% already owns a more than 9% stake that he revealed earlier this month.

The Wall Street Journal reported Thursday that Twitter was weighing such a move.

WSJ : U.S. Stock Markets Closed for Good Friday, Asian Indexes Fall

U.S. Stock Markets Closed for Good Friday, Asian Indexes Fall
U.S. indexes finished week with declines as investors worried about persistent inflation, prospects of economic slowdown

Asian indexes fell Friday as U.S. stock markets and others world-wide were closed to finish a trading week shortened by Good Friday and other holidays.

In addition to U.S. stock markets, bond and commodities markets were also closed Friday. Some Asian markets were open. Japan’s Nikkei 225 ended the day down 0.3%, finishing the week up 0.4% to break a two-week losing streak. The Shanghai Composite Index lost 0.4%, ending the week down 1.25%. The People’s Bank of China on Friday relaxed a key bank lending constraint while leaving benchmark interest rates unchanged.

Bitcoin ticked up 0.7% Friday from its Thursday 5 p.m. ET level, recently trading at $40,156.

The three major U.S. stock indexes fell this week. Investors worried about rising inflation, consumer spending and the prospects of an economic slowdown. Earlier this week, data indicated U.S. inflation surged to a new four-decade high of 8.5% in March from the same month a year ago, driven by higher food and energy costs. Those concerns have ramped up pressure on the Federal Reserve to potentially raise interest rates by half a percentage point at its coming meeting.

The Dow industrials fell 269.89 points, or 0.8%, to 34451.23 this week. The S&P 500 lost 95.69 points, or 2.1%, to 4392.59. The technology-focused Nasdaq Composite dropped 359.92 points, or 2.6%, to 13351.08.

This week, earnings season kicked off with quarterly reports from banks and financial-services firms, which often are seen as proxies for the health of the U.S. economy. JPMorgan Chase, BlackRock and Wells Fargo fell this week after reporting a drop in profit, raising worries of an economic downturn. Their results were pulled down because of comparisons to bumper profits during the pandemic.

Goldman Sachs, Citigroup and Morgan Stanley all added less than 1% this week. The KBW Nasdaq bank index fell 2.6% during the same period.

The yield on the benchmark 10-year U.S. Treasury note finished the week at 2.808%, its highest level since December 2018, with investors betting on rising interest rates. Bond yields and prices move in opposite directions.

Brent crude, the international oil benchmark, moved back up to $111.70 a barrel on Thursday after finishing last week at $102.78.

Next week, investors will parse out jobless claims and home sales figures to better understand the direction of the U.S. economy. Bank and financial services earnings continue next week with Bank of America and Charles Schwab. Tesla, AT&T and Baker Hughes are also scheduled to report quarterly results.

FT : Macron urges EU-wide executive pay curbs in campaign battle with Le Pen

Macron urges EU-wide executive pay curbs in campaign battle with Le Pen
French president and far-right rival criticise €19mn package for head of carmaker Stellantis

President Emmanuel Macron has called for an EU-wide framework to cap “abusive” executive pay after anger in France over a €19.1mn package for the head of carmaker Stellantis.

The criticism of the award to Carlos Tavares came as Macron entered the final weekend of the French election campaign seeking to fend off far-right challenger Marine Le Pen, who also condemned the pay for the head of the Franco-Italian company.

Ahead of the April 24 presidential election run-off, the issue of executive pay has crept into a campaign dominated by voter worries over high energy costs and broader cost of living problems.

Unions and shareholders have opposed the payout for Tavares, formerly the head of French Peugeot maker PSA, which merged with Italy’s Fiat Chrysler last year. The Portuguese executive will collect the multimillion-euro package for 2021 despite a majority of investors voting to oppose Stellantis’ pay plan for its senior managers.

Macron called Tavares’ pay package “shocking and excessive” on Friday and said a “fight” to ensure executive pay levels were not abusive should be led at EU level.

“At some stage we have to lay out ceilings and bring in a governance structure at European level that makes things acceptable, otherwise at one point society will explode,” Macron told Franceinfo radio. “People can’t be struggling with the high cost of living and see these kinds of sums.”

“Of course it’s shocking,” Le Pen told BFM TV when asked about the pay package. “It’s even more shocking when it’s bosses of companies that have run into trouble. That happens quite a lot.”

Long labelled as a “president of the rich” by political opponents, Macron, a former banker who came to power in 2017 on a pro-business platform, said he was in favour of wealth creation and “freedoms” for companies but said the Stellantis pay plans were “astronomical”.

He said France could also look at ways to let staff benefit more from company profits through share schemes.

Le Pen has campaigned heavily in recent months on issues such as food inflation and high fuel prices, which have risen further since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine. Her emphasis on the high cost of living, away from her party’s longstanding focus on immigration issues that are still core to her manifesto, has struck a chord with voters.

Recommended
The Big Read
The corner of France that explains Macron, Le Pen and a deep political divide

Polls put Macron on around 53 per cent of voting intentions in the run-off, with Le Pen tailing him at 47 per cent.

Stellantis is incorporated in the Netherlands, meaning the French government has little sway over its governance rules, although state-owned investment bank Bpifrance, the carmaker’s fourth-biggest shareholder, voted against the pay plan.

PSA and its car loans arm had to be bailed out by the French government in 2012 with state-backed loans following a prolonged market slump, although that was before Tavares, a former Renault executive, joined the group in 2014.

“Stellantis recalls that under the leadership of Carlos Tavares, in less than eight years, Groupe PSA went from a situation of near bankruptcy to the rank of leading company in its sector on a world scale,” the company said in a statement.

The world’s fourth-biggest carmaker, which reported record profits and margins last year, has said it would take the non-binding vote against its plans into account for 2022, although it did not detail how.