DAX:
- Zalando (ZAL TH) +1.5%
- Shares down 5.2% so far this week
- Infineon (IFX TH) +1.4%
- European Chip Stocks in Focus as Broadcom Gives Strong Forecast
- Mercedes (MBG TH) +1.3%
- Porsche SE (PAH3 TH) +1.3%
- Deutsche Post (DPW TH) +1.2%
- Henkel (HEN3 TH) -1.3%
- Henkel Cut to Sell at Goldman; PT 62 euros
MDAX:
- Thyssenkrupp (TKA TH) +1.7%
- Lufthansa (LHA TH) +1.6%
- Lufthansa Raised to Add at AlphaValue/Baader
- Uniper (UN01 TH) +1.4%
- Nokia, Nordea to Join Euro Stoxx 50; Kone, Philips to Exit (1)
- Kion (KGX TH) +1.2%
- Commerzbank (CBK TH) +1.1%
SDAX:
- Deutz (DEZ TH) +2%
- Salzgitter (SZG TH) +1.8%
- Heidelberger Druck (HDD TH) +1.6%
- Deutsche PBB (PBB TH) +1.3%
- Eckert & Ziegler (EUZ TH) +1.2%
- Schaeffler (SHA TH) +0.9%
>>> Up
* Chr. Hansen Raised to Buy at Goldman; PT 570 kroner
* Chr. Hansen Raised to Buy at Goldman; PT 570 kroner
* Flutter PT Raised to 16,000 pence from 14,500 pence at Peel Hunt
* Nordex Raised to Buy at Citi; PT 12 euros
>>> Down
>>> Down
* Air Liquide Cut to Neutral at Goldman; PT 124 euros
* Arkema Cut to Neutral at Goldman; PT 96 euros
* Barratt Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 430 pence
* Bellway Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 2,370 pence
* Berkeley Cut to Reduce at HSBC; PT 3,220 pence
* Crest Nicholson Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 260 pence
* Givaudan Cut to Sell at Goldman; PT 3,100 Swiss francs
* Henkel Cut to Sell at Goldman; PT 62 euros
* Nvidia Cut to Neutral at Daiwa; PT $133
* Persimmon Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 1,530 pence
* Redrow Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 600 pence
* Taylor Wimpey Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 120 pence
* Vitec Software Group Cut to Hold at SEB Equities; PT 425 kronor
* WSO1 GR Cut to Hold at Pareto Securities; PT 10 euros
>>> Initiation
* Assystem Rated New Buy at Stifel; PT 50 euros
* WSO1 GR Cut to Hold at Pareto Securities; PT 10 euros
>>> Initiation
* Assystem Rated New Buy at Stifel; PT 50 euros
* Hermes Rated New Buy at Sealand Securities
* Proximus Resumed Underweight at Morgan Stanley; PT 14 euros
>>> Call
>>> Call
* Centrica Headwinds Are Priced In to ‘Depressed’ Valuation: RBC
* Citi Lifts Wind Market Estimates, Upgrades Nordex to Buy
* Gambling Stocks’ Resilience Is Attractive in 2H, Peel Hunt Says
* Proximus Underweight at Morgan Stanley on Structural Headwinds
* Proximus Underweight at Morgan Stanley on Structural Headwinds
An Asian stock index fell Friday and a dollar gauge hovered near a record high ahead of key US jobs data that could stir expectations for another sharp Federal Reserve interest-rate hike. Drops in Japan and Hong Kong sapped the region-wide equity index, while China’s bourses were mixed. US futures wavered after Wall Street snapped a four-day losing streak to eke out modest gains. The jobs update Friday is expected to show healthy payrolls growth and follows a stronger-than-expected US manufacturing report. Traders increasingly anticipate another large 75 basis points Fed rate rise to cool inflation. The two-year Treasury yield was close to the highest since 2007 against that backdrop, while the Bloomberg Dollar Spot Index inched back from the unprecedented level hit Thursday. The yen and the euro strengthened. Global bonds as a whole slumped into their first bear market in a generation: the Bloomberg Global Aggregate Total Return Index of government and investment-grade corporate bonds is down more than 20% from a 2021 peak. Oil bounced above $87 a barrel, undoing some of the losses sparked by China’s move to lock down the metropolis of Chengdu to curb Covid. The latter step amplified worries about the commodity demand outlook. US After Hours LULU +9.3%, PD +7.4%, AVGO +2%, SMAR +1.9% higher on earnings; OXM -6.1%, NX -2.1% lower on earnings
Nikkei -0.18% Hang Seng -1.14% CSI -0.72% Shanghai -0.15% Shenzen +0.10%
Eur$ 0.9962 CNH 6.9087 CNY 6.9021 JPY 140.29 GBP 1.1543 CHF 0.9811 RUB 60.1116 TRY 18.2083 WTI$ 88.32 +1.99% Gold 1,699.25 +0.10% BTC 20,190 +0.60% ETH 1,595.90 +0.98%
S&P -0.18% NAsdaq -0.19% EuroStoxx +0.89% FTSE +0.49% Dax +1.06% SMI
Macro :
- Investors Flee From Junk Bond Funds Amid $5 Billion Outflow
- Germany Turns More Pessimistic on Russian Gas This Winter
- Oil Sinks Further in Test of OPEC’s Resolve Amid Demand Concerns
- BofA Sees Cracks Finally Forming in Traders’ S&P 500 Bearishness
- EU Sees Limits in What Power-Price Intervention Can Achieve
- Bitcoin Dips Below $20,000 for a Sixth Session as ‘Fear’ Sets In
Keep an eye on :
- ABVX FP : Announces successful oversubscribed €49.2M cross-over financing with top-tier US and European Biotech investors; May consider further equity financing
- ADS GY : Lululemon Jumps on Outlook Boost, Defying Inflation’s Drag
- AGLX NO : Agilyx Offering of 6.26m Shares Prices at NOK24/Share
- BARRA NO : Barramundi Group Exploring Strategic Options for Australian Ops
- BAYN GY : Bayer Wins Fifth Straight Trial Over Roundup Cancer Claims
- CSGN SW : Credit Suisse to Launch China Wealth Business in 2023: Reuters
- DTE GY : FCC Concludes 2.5 GHz Auction; Awards T-Mobile $304M in Bid
- DIE BB : Belgian August Car Registrations Rise 7.0%; D’Ieteren Has 22.2%
- EDF FP : EDF Ex-Trading Chief Marcello Romano Joins Energy Hedge Fund
- GEM NO : Green Minerals Offering of 1.16m Shares Prices
- NFLX US : EU Wants Telcos to Prove Netflix, YouTube Should Pay for Traffic
- NOKIA FH : Nokia, Nordea to Join Euro Stoxx 50; Kone, Philips to Exit
- NDA SS : Nokia, Nordea to Join Euro Stoxx 50; Kone, Philips to Exit
- PSH NA : Pershing Square Holdings Aug. Net Performance +2.9%
- PHIA NA : Nokia, Nordea to Join Euro Stoxx 50; Kone, Philips to Exit
- PRX NA : Prosus Sells Over 3.9 Million Tencent Shares in the First Falf
- RIO LN : SailingStone Doesn’t Support Rio Tinto Offer for Turquoise Hill
- RIO LN : Rio Bid for Turquoise Hill Stake Too Low, Says Top Five Investor
- SGO FP : Saint-Gobain Enters Talks to Divest Crystals and Detectors Unit
- SHEL LN : Shipper Wellnord May Buy Shell Stake in Russian JV: Kommersant
- SHEL LN : Shell to Sell Aera Energy Stake to IKAV for About $2b Cash
- AM3D GY : Nikon Is Said to Near Deal to Buy Elliott-Backed SLM Solutions
Germany Responds After Poland Demands $1.3 Trillion In WWII Reparations
Germany has responded after Poland demanded $1.32 trillion in reparations over losses suffered during WWII.
On Thursday, Poland's Deputy Prime Minister Jaroslaw Kaczynski said that Warsaw would officially demand reparations from its largest trade partner and a fellow member of both the EU and NATO.
Poland's new estimate tops the $850 billion estimate by a ruling party lawmaker from 2019. The ruling Law and Justice (PiS) party has repeated calls for compensation several times since it took power in 2015, but Poland hasn't officially demanded reparations. -Reuters
"The sum that was presented was adopted using the most limited, conservative method, it would be possible to increase it," said Kaczynski, leader of Poland's Law and Justice (PiS) party during a news conference. "Germany has never really accounted for its crimes against Poland," he added.
Kaczynski - who is Poland's chief policy maker, and Prime Minister Mateusz Morawiecki, attended a ceremonial release of a long-awaited reparations report held at the Royal Castle in Warsaw, which was rebuilt from wartime ruins.
The release of the three-volume report was the focus of national observances of the anniversary of the war that began Sep. 1, 1939, with Nazi Germany’s bombing and invasion of Poland that was followed by more than five years of brutal occupation.The head of the report team, lawmaker Arkadiusz Mularczyk, said it was impossible to place a financial value on the loss of some 5.2 million lives he blamed on the German occupation.He listed losses to the infrastructure, industry, farming, culture, deportations to Germany for forced labor and efforts to turn Polish children into Germans.A team of more than 30 economists, historians and other experts worked on the report since 2017. The issue has created bilateral tensions.The war was “one of the most terrible tragedies in our history,” President Andrzej Duda said during early morning observances at the Westerplatte peninsula near Gdansk, one of the first places to be attacked in the Nazi invasion. -ABC News
Germany hit back in a statement from its foreign ministry, which said that the question of reparations was 'concluded' long ago with Poland renouncing further claims, and that the German position that compensation was paid to East Bloc nations in the years after the war, has not changed.
Poland's combative stance towards Germany has intensified after Russia's invasion of Ukraine.
In 1953, Poland's then-communist rulers relinquished all claims to reparations amid pressure from the USSR, which wanted to free the soviet satellite of East Germany from any liabilities. According to Poland, the agreement is invalid because Poland was unable to negotiate fair compensation, according to Reuters.
Donald Tusk, leader of Poland's biggest opposition party Civic Platform, said on Thursday that Kaczynski's announcement was "not about reparations"."It's about an internal political campaign to rebuild support for the ruling party," he said.
Germany's top official for German-Polish cooperation, Dietmar Nietan, said in a statement that Sept. 1 "remains a day of guilt and shame for Germany that reminds us time and again not to forget the crimes carried out by Germany" that are the "darkest chapter in our history."
What Is ‘The Merge’ and What Does It Mean for Fashion NFTs?
BoF explains how a long-in-the-works upgrade to the Ethereum blockchain promises to solve one of the biggest hurdles to NFTs going mainstream — if its backers can pull it off.
This month, an event years in the making — a fundamental change to how one of the most popular blockchains operates rumoured for so long some doubted it might ever happen — is finally scheduled to take place.
If carried off successfully, it would address the aspect of NFTs that’s arguably hardest for fashion brands to justify: the extraordinary amounts of energy used by the Ethereum blockchain that most NFT collections are built on, a fact that has been impossible for brands to square with their publicised efforts to reduce their energy and carbon footprints as the world faces a climate crisis.
What Is “The Merge”?
Currently scheduled to start on or around Sept. 15, “the merge” will see the Ethereum blockchain transitioned from its existing proof-of-work mechanism to a more efficient proof-of-stake system. Currently, every time there’s a transaction on Ethereum, computers compete to validate it by racing each other to solve complex equations, requiring enormous processing power but yielding a reward for the winner.
The new system will dispense with this competition and instead involve investors “staking” ether — the native currency of the Ethereum blockchain — in a pool, entering them into a lottery that will select one to validate the transaction and claim the reward.
Why Does It Matter For Fashion?
The amount of electricity proof-of-work blockchains like Ethereum and Bitcoin gobble up is notoriously huge. Researchers have estimated that, as of July 2021, Ethereum used more electricity annually than Romania and slightly less than Switzerland. Its annual carbon emissions were just below Tunisia’s. (Bitcoin’s impacts were even greater.)
The merge is supposed to reduce that energy use by more than 99 percent.
For the many fashion companies with Ethereum-based NFTs, such as Adidas, Nike and Gucci, there’s a lot at stake for their sustainability credentials.
Adidas, for instance, landed at the top of one list calling out the environmental impact of fashion NFT projects because of its release of 30,000 “Into the Metaverse” NFTs last year, much more than the typical NFT release by fashion brands. At the same time, the sports giant says it is “committed to decarbonisation by reducing our absolute energy consumption and GHG emissions.”
Adidas said in a statement that it has tried to mitigate its impact by monitoring its emissions, taking steps such as minimising unnecessary and energy-intensive blockchain transactions and reinvesting earnings into non-profits “focused on advancing sustainability in the metaverse.” It added that its carbon emissions related to web3 activities represent approximately .05 percent of its total carbon footprint and that it continues seeking to reduce the figure.
How Bad Are Fashion’s NFT Projects For the Environment?
It’s difficult to measure the impact of any NFT collection. Because of the way blockchains work, there isn’t a simple one-to-one relationship between the number of transactions and total energy use, as noted by the University of Cambridge.
One argument is that it’s more accurate to think of an individual NFT like a passenger on a train rather than a car on the road. Each passenger contributes to the overall demand that keeps the train running, but it’s hard to calculate what share of the train’s energy use and emissions any one passenger owns. Still, there’s no denying Ethereum uses a lot of electricity from carbon-emitting grids, prompting criticism of fashion’s plunge into NFTs.
Some brands have tried to dodge these issues by using other blockchains. Gap’s NFT collection earlier this year was built on the Tezos blockchain, which operates on a proof-of-stake mechanism. Gap noted it’s more energy-efficient than the labour-intensive systems underlying Ethereum and Bitcoin.
Why Don’t More NFT Projects Use Other Blockchains?
Even if it ceded some market share to rivals this year, Ethereum remains by far the preferred blockchain for NFT projects. Since it went live in 2015 with the aim of offering a more flexible network than Bitcoin, it has become the go-to blockchain for developers building all sorts of applications beyond just currencies. Today, Ethereum-based NFTs tend to have higher selling prices and are supported by the biggest NFT marketplaces, making them attractive to brands and their customers, who might want to resell their digital assets one day.
In theory, the merge will allow Ethereum to continue as the blockchain of choice for many NFT projects while letting the creators behind them claim they’re using an energy-efficient infrastructure. It’s a complex and tricky process, though. If anything goes wrong, any applications running on Ethereum could face major disruptions.
“It’s flying the jet, and changing the engine in the sky,” one critic told The New York Times.
But those supervising the Ethereum blockchain clearly feel the risk is worth it.
Will The Merge Do Anything Besides Reduce Energy Use?
The promised benefits don’t end with Ethereum being less of an energy hog. It should also make Ethereum more scalable and lay the ground work for updates to make it faster. (Don’t expect noticeable changes in performance right away, though.) The group most vocally opposed to the merge are generally the Ethereum “miners” who dropped large sums on supercharged computers that have been powering the current proof-of-work system.
The idea for the merge came up even before Ethereum’s 2015 debut, and programmers have now been working in earnest for years to make it happen. Despite numerous delays, it now appears ready to take place. If it really does, the dramatic energy savings will be one bright spot at least in the suffering crypto market and likely give fashion businesses one more reason to believe there’s a long-term future for their web3 ambitions.
Téthys Joins General Atlantic to Back DTC Brand Sézane
The Bettencourt-Meyers family office is taking a minority stake in the Paris-based fashion label, whose sales have skyrocketed in recent years.
Téthys, the family office of the Bettencourt-Meyers family, best known as the largest shareholders of L’Oreal, is taking a minority stake in French direct-to-consumer label Sézane, joining previous investor General Atlantic in the apparel brand’s latest round of funding. (In 2018, General Atlantic acquired an undisclosed minority stake.)
A representative for Téthys declined to share the terms of the transaction, but said there would be no change to Sézane’s governance. Founder Morgane Sézalory will remain CEO and creative director of the brand, which has grown exponentially in recent years as consumer appetite for its accessibly priced, French-lifestyle-inspired women’s separates and dresses accelerated. In 2016, the company launched Octobre Editions, a menswear offshoot, which currently makes up about 10 percent of the business and is in expansion mode.
Sales are projected to surpass €250 million in 2022, according to sources familiar with the business, with 85 percent coming from e-commerce. The remaining 15 percent is generated by eight permanent retail outposts, including a directly operated shop-in-shop in the Paris department store Le Bon Marché. (While the brand first made an impression in the US with a Madewell collaboration, followed by pop-ups with Nordstrom, the Sézane main line is sold entirely direct-to-consumer.)
Although Sézalory said she aims to keep the majority of sales online, the company — which has been growing 20-to-30 percent year-on-year for several years — continues to open permanent stores and pop-ups, with another London store opening set for 2023 and San Francisco and Amsterdam pop-ups planned. (The brand is growing fastest in the US and Europe, and has yet to expand to China.)
Over the summer, Sézane was one of the many fashion businesses said to be seeking additional funding, and market sources indicate that there was no shortage of interested parties. Partnering with the Bettencourt-Meyers family, which set up its investment firm in 2016, made sense because they have a “long-term approach,” Sézalory said. “Téthys Invest has a family mindset and they are dedicated to supporting entrepreneurs over the long run, being very respectful of people, of creativity and of entrepreneurs like me.”
While many brands have sought investment or a sale over the past several months, few have managed to close a deal. Sézane’s impressive growth, coupled with its ability to limit discounting, made it attractive. Several of the brand’s French competitors have struggled to capture the interest of US consumers, mostly due to a lack of understanding of the market. Sézane, on the other hand, has managed to get the price, fit and store experience right so far.
The investment is Téthys’ first in the fashion space.
The ‘Euphoria’ Effect Is Turning Costume Designers Into The Next Influencers
Streaming TV costume designers who are creating worlds, viral fashion trends and influencing runway collections are hoping it will finally mean more recognition.
Make room, Hollywood stylists: costume designers are poised to be the next influencers.
Mesh tops, strappy dresses and lace-up-the-leg sandals are just a few fashion trends spawned by HBO’s hit series “Euphoria,” which generated its own #EuphoriaHigh TikTok challenge when season two premiered in January.
Costume designer Heidi Bivens’ looks have also reverberated on the runways, with Paris-based brand Coperni drawing direct inspiration from the show for its high school-themed fall 2022 collection, down to the student lockers as part of the production.
“They represent a new guard — and to think that an American show could have that kind of larger world impact is exciting. The language of fashion can travel,” said Bivens, a former staffer at WWD, who is publishing a book with A24 about the costumes of “Euphoria” later this year, including an interview with Coperni designers Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant.
“Euphoria” has changed the game for Hollywood and fashion with its diverse group of social media-savvy Gen Z stars racking up luxury partnerships with Coach, Valentino, Thom Browne and more, brands lining up to provide clothing for characters to wear on-screen, and to collaborate on merchandise inspired by the show.
Hunter Schafer’s spring 2022 Prada campaign generated $3.4 million in media impact value, which is comparable to a fashion week runway show, according to Michael Jais, chief executive officer of Launchmetrics. And Angus Cloud had the top social media post of New York Fashion Week, at Coach, generating $914,000.
Part of their real-world fashion success is Bivens’ character-building using her own designs, vintage and current pieces from brands like House of CB, Akna, Prada and Coperni.
Coperni RTW Fall 2022
GIOVANNI GIANNONI/WWD
“People will send me street-style shots, or…if they see scantily clad teens, they’ll tell me it’s my fault,” she laughed. “But, honestly, that stuff was already going on. I just tapped into it. And then I had a platform to put it on television, where often a lot of the time, especially on networks, there was more of a commercial look.”
The success of the show’s costumes “has everything to do with timing, the onset of social media and me being able to reference that as a resource for inspiration. If anything, I’d like to believe that the show inspired people to take more chances with their style,” she said.
Alexa Demie, Barbie Ferreira, Maude Apatow, Sophia Rose Wilson and Sydney Sweeney in “Euphoria.”
COURTESY OF HBO
Bivens has her pick of brands now, but that wasn’t the case before the show came out. “To call in runway pieces for fittings for a television show or even a film at the time was a novelty,” she said, explaining that more than one brand rep seemed to “find her email in spam,” after the series became an overnight success.
“But it was the way that I approached contemporary costuming because of coming from editorial. And often I would be working on projects that didn’t have huge budgets, so that would be my first step. Before I even started buying stuff, I was like, ‘OK, what’s going on in fashion, and which brands would these characters gravitate toward?'”
Next up, Bivens is designing a collection of avatar clothing for Genies Studio, as well as directing the first four episodes of the upcoming animated fairy series of “Gossamer,” based on the novel of the same name by Lois Lowry.
“I can remember ages ago I worked on a film where I brokered a deal with a clothing brand and I never saw one cent.…But the times are changing and there is this great opportunity for studios and producers to start to see costume designers as larger creative partners, and not just people who put cool clothes on people,” said Bivens, pointing to costume designer Lou Eyrich’s rise to producer on Ryan Murphy’s projects as a new paradigm.
Of course, it’s not only “Euphoria” that’s had recent fashion resonance — “Gossip Girl,” “Emily in Paris,” “Stranger Things” and “Bridgerton” have also sent online searches skyrocketing for berets, rompers, ’80s fashion, corsets, hair bows and long gloves.
A still from “Bridgerton” season two.
LIAM DANIEL/NETFLIX
“I managed to create the Regency period in a way that was alluring to a modern audience, and they hadn’t seen it and wanted to try it. It became the largest audience for a project I have ever worked on and they wanted everything. It was constant from the day it aired, I still get notes,” said costume designer Ellen Mirojnick of creating the romantic, escapist look of “Bridgerton,” which swept up viewers in the darkest days of the pandemic, in late 2020.
“The categories merge now,” said Mirojnick of costume and fashion. “Where I think in the past, there’s been more of a specific categorization.”
She sees the intimacy of bigger and smaller screens affecting how viewers are responding. “Costumes are more noticeable now simply because of the amount of content we have, number one, and number two, there is a more immersive involvement in storytelling and characters, the freedom to emulate what’s attractive to you, and the type of character you want to be.”
Lily Collins as Emily in “Emily in Paris.”
STÉPHANIE BRANCHU/NETFLIX
Looking at what’s popular on TV and what filters down to social media has become a good way to read trends, especially among Gen Z.
“You have two fashion directions, ‘Emily in Paris,’ focusing on designer names and exclusivity, and then you’ve got ‘Stranger Things’ and ‘Euphoria,’ which are DIY [do-it-yourself] and nostalgia-based. It tells us a lot about how people want to dress post-pandemic, with superexaggerated, oversize skater looks, ’80s and DIY, mixed with a super high-end accessory,” said Launchmetrics’ Jais, noting that Christian Dior Parfums signing on to sponsor the Canneseries festival in April was a signal of how influential streaming TV content has become in the fashion and beauty realm.
“It feels that’s where the audience is going, with networks being less exciting, they want to go to streaming, it becomes viral, and people talk or TikTok or meme about it,” said “Stranger Things” costume designer Amy Parris. (Nicolas Ghesquière was such a fan he made a “Stranger Things” T-shirt for his spring 2018 Louis Vuitton show.)
Louis Vuitton RTW Spring 2018
GIOVANNI GIANNONI/WWD
Several fashion brands collaborated with “Stranger Things” for the fourth season, including Levi’s, which copied a pair of double-button waistband, channel-stitched balloon pants that Parris painstakingly created for the show using a 19-piece pattern.
When the licensed Levi’s x Stranger Things collection came out, Parris was not credited, an age-old problem for costume designers, who are among the lowest-paid workers in entertainment.
“[Brands] should be treating them like influencers. What they haven’t understood is that while they are not necessarily building everything from scratch, they are curating and bringing designs to the small and big screen that makes them stylists extraordinaire,” said Stacy Jones, founder of pop culture brand partnership agency Hollywood Branded.
Jones herself was recently influenced by Kirston Mann’s costumes for Maya Rudolph playing a billionaire ex-wife on a journey of self-discovery in the Apple TV+ comedy “Loot” to buy a fringed dress from up-and-coming Italian band Taller Marmo. “These costume designers are discovering brands and making them more attainable.”
Launchmetrics’ Jais goes one step further: “The future is brands creating their own TV shows,” he said, mentioning Tommy Hilfiger and Ralph Lauren as potential producers.
Storytelling is key to making it more than just a marketing exercise, he said, mentioning Calvin Klein producing a video and song for the band XX in 2017 as a good example. “They never mentioned Calvin Klein as a brand but all the characters were wearing Calvin Klein. The reason they did that is that the music group had an audience on social media exactly the same as the audience of Calvin Klein. They became the producer of a song, so why not have the brand becoming a producer of TV shows?”
“What I see is brands leveraging other peoples’ content in smarter ways — with capsule collections, recognizing the art form of the costume designer and the importance of the Costume Designers Guild of America,” said Jones. “There are opportunities for brands to become part of a scene, and to create limited merch around a show through a licensing agreement. But the costume designer has to be part of that deal, the production company should be part of the deal, and the distributor. It’s multipronged as to who should have their fingers in this.”
Maya Rudolph wears Taller Marmo in the pilot episode of Apple TV+’s “Loot.”
Amazon is perfectly positioned. “They have e-commerce, they have built a fashion division, they are going out to secure brands to be part of their content. The next layer is you are in the content and you can click out through it to buy, or Amazon is tracking you on Prime, and you are served up the look from the show,” said Jones. “My sense is Netflix will get there, too. But Amazon is there now.”
Certainly, Netflix’s animated “Entergalactic,” premiering Sept. 30, starring Kid Cudi as an up-and-coming artist in New York wearing designs by the late Virgil Abloh and others, could be among the fall season’s fashion influential shows, as could the new adaptation of “Interview With the Vampire,” debuting on AMC on Oct. 2, with Jacob Anderson as a Black, gay, rich vampire in early 20th-century New Orleans, and Gothic menswear galore.
But is Amazon’s “The Lord of the Rings: The Rings of Power,” coming Friday, really going to spawn fashion trends?
Maybe.
“Game of Thrones” costume designer Michele Clapton caused a sensation when she revealed the show’s capes were made out of $79 Ikea Skold rugs.
“Are there things the designers are taking from real life that become known, that are recast as something you can purchase?” said Jones of the Middle-earth tale with an estimated cost of $450 million. “We might see an elfin dress that becomes something. Fashion changes all the time.”
After Hours Summary: LULU +9.3%, PD +7.4%, AVGO +2%, SMAR +1.9% higher on earnings; OXM -6.1%, NX -2.1% lower on earningsAfter Hours Gainers:
Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: HCP +13.6%, NCNO +10.7% (also Bank Operating System selected by Rabobank Australia and New Zealand), LULU +9.3%, PD +7.4%, JOAN +3.6%, SPWH +3.2%, AVGO +2%, SMAR +1.9% (also acquires Outfit)
Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: HUMA +3.8% (files for $300 mln mixed securities shelf offering; also stock offering), RKLB +3.4% (successfully test fires reused Rutherford first stage engine for the first time), MMS +1.5% (awarded $6.6 bln Medicare contract), NKE +1.2% (in sympathy with LULU earnings), NOVA +1% (applies to develop a solar and storage focused "micro-utility" in California), OOMA +0.7% (acquires Junction Networks, also reports earnings), NTLA +0.6% (receives FDA Orphan Drug Designation for NTLA-2002), SBUX +0.4% (names Laxman Narasimhan as next CEO; also files mixed securities shelf offering), TOL +0.2% (enters into $192.5 mln settlement with Southern California Gas), FREY +0.2% (files for $500 mln mixed securities shelf offering; also stock offering), XOM +0.1% (to sell all interests in the Aera oil-production operation to Green Gate), SHEL +0.1% (to sell its stake in Aera Energy LLC to IKAV for $2 bln)
After Hours Losers:
Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: OXM -6.1%, NX -2.1%, CVGW -1.7%
Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: SENS -2.3% (CFO to step down, names new CFO), CLR -0.5% (files mixed securities shelf offering), ATVI -0.1% (files mixed securities shelf offering)