>>> Europe : Brokers Upgradres & Downgrades - 5th of May 2022

>>> Up
* Elis Raised to Overweight at JPMorgan; PT 17 euros
* NP3 Fastigheter Raised to Hold at Handelsbanken
* Ocado Raised to Hold at HSBC; PT 1,000 pence
* Stillfront Raised to Hold at SEB Equities; PT 20 kronor

>>> Down
* Bahnhof Cut to Hold at Handelsbanken
* HUTCHMED China ADRs Cut to Hold at Deutsche Bank; PT $20
* InPost Cut to Accumulate at Erste Group; PT 8.20 euros
* Kahoot Cut to Hold at Nordea
* Moderna PT Cut to $199 from $217 at Morgan Stanley
* Pandora Cut to Hold at Nordea
* Traton Cut to Hold at SEB Equities; PT 18.37 euros

>>> Initiation
* Gresham House Rated New Corporate at Edison Investment Research
* Siegfried Rated New Sell at Stifel; PT 503 Swiss francs

>>> Call
* U.S. Utility Bills Could Jump 40% on Energy Rally, Barclays Says
* Coinbase Price Target Cut at Mizuho on ‘Meager’ Trading Volume

>>> What to look at today - 5th of May 2022

Stocks rose and bonds jumped Thursday amid a bout of investor relief after the Federal Reserve raised interest rates as expected while countering fears of super-sized hikes. An Asian share gauge was up about 1%, helped by Hong Kong and China, where there are hopes for steps to support an economy sapped by Covid lockdowns.  U.S. futures steadied, and European contracts added more than 2%, following a 3% advance in the S&P 500 index that ranked as the biggest since 2020. The dollar remained lower after retreating in the Fed’s slipstream.  Australian debt surged in the wake of a pronounced slump in shorter-maturityTreasury yields as traders scaled back bets on aggressive monetary tightening. There’s no cash Treasuries trading in Asia due to a Japan holiday. Fed Chair Jerome Powell said a 75 basis points hike is “not something that the committee is actively considering,” spurring the market rally. The Fed raised rates a half point and signaled similar moves for the next couple of meetings. “Removing some of the uncertainty is helpful in getting some of the cash that has been on the sideline back into the markets, whether it’s bonds or equities,” Erin Gibbs, chief investment officer at Main Street Asset Management LLC, said on Bloomberg Television. he U.S. central bank will also allow its holdings of Treasuries and mortgage-backed securities to decline in June at an initial combined monthly pace of $47.5 billion, stepping up over three months to $95 billion. The market reaction is likely to evolve as investors digest Powell’s commentary. A global wave of monetary tightening alongside commodity-fueled price pressures could yet hurt economic growth. Russia is also continuing its war in Ukraine and China’s Covid curbs are snarling global supply chains. Climbs in oil and wheat underlined the risks. Crude hit $108 a barrel on a European Union plan to ban Russian barrels over the next six months. Wheat rose on the possibility of export curbs by major grower India. US After Hours ALB +17.1%, BKNG +11%, TRIP +6.7% higher on earnings; PING -11.9%, ETSY -9.9%, EBAY -5.9%, FSLY -5.7% lower on earnings

Nikkei closed Hang Seng +0.69% CSI +0.41% Shanghai +1.15% Shenzen +1.39%

Eur$ 1.0613 CNH 6.6340 CNY 6.6095 JPY 129.35 GBP 1.2554 CHF 0.9739 RUB 65.7875 TRY 14.7620 WTI$ 108.62 +0.73% Gold 1,899.42 +0.97% BTC 39,600 -0.51% ETH 2,932 -0.41%

S&P +0.08% Nasdaq +0.06% EuroStoxx +2.36% FTSE +1.07% Dax +2.16% SMI +0.995%

Macro :
- Blockchain Innovation Urged Through California Executive Order
- Fed Hikes Rates Half Point, Will Shrink Assets to Curb Inflation
- Nasdaq’s Friedman Sees IPO Comeback Led by Digital Innovators

Keep an eye on :
- ABI BB : *AB INBEV 1Q ADJ EBITDA +7.4%, EST. +3.88%
- ADEN SW : Adecco 1Q Gross Margin Beats Estimates
- AIR FP : Airbus 1Q Adjusted Ebit Beats Estimates
- AIR FP : Air France Sees Profitability This Summer on Travel Demand Surge
- AIXA GY : Aixtron 1Q Ebit Misses Estimates
- AMG LN : AMG 1Q Ebitda $54.8M Vs. $28.3M Y/y
- MT NA : ArcelorMittal 1Q Ebitda Beats Estimates
- AKE FP : Arkema 1Q Ebitda Beats Estimates
- BAMNB NA : BAM 1Q Revenue EU1.55B Vs. EU1.65B Y/y
- BILL SS : BillerudKorsnas 1Q Adjusted Ebitda Beats Estimates
- BYW6 GY : BayWa 1Q Ebit EU144.9M
- BMW GY : BMW Profit Beats Estimates on Strong Demand for Luxury Cars
- BP/ LN : BP Aims to Start Oil Output From North Sea Murlach Field in 2025
- CGG FP : CGG 1Q Segment Revenue $153M Vs. $213M Y/y
- COFB BB : Cofinimmo to Spend ~EU15m on Care Project for Amavir in Cordoba
- COP GY : CompuGroup 1Q Adjusted Ebitda Margin 20.5% Vs. 20.3% Y/y
- COR PL : Corticeira Amorim Forms Joint Venture for Capsulated Stoppers
- ACA FP : Credit Agricole 1Q Net Income Misses Estimates
- DEZ GY : Deutz 1Q Revenue Beats Estimates
- ENEL IM : Enel 1Q Revenue EU34.96B Vs. EU18.49B Y/y
- ENEL IM : Enel CFO Says Italy, Spain Energy Measures Affect Debt Evolution
- EDV LN : Endeavour Mining to Report Results; Shares up 16.2% YTD: Preview
- FLS DC : FLSmidth 1Q Orders Beats Estimates
- FDR SM : Fluidra 1Q Ebitda Beats Estimates
- HLAG GY : Senators Urge Evergreen, Maersk to Work With Ag Exporters
- HAG GY : Hensoldt 1Q Adjusted Ebitda EU17M Vs. EU15M Y/y
- HEN3 GY : Henkel Targets About EU250M Annualized Net Savings by End-2023
- JD US : JD.com to Strive to Maintain Listing Status on Nasdaq, HKEX
- SKB GY : Koenig & Bauer 1Q Ebit Loss EU8.5M Vs. Loss EU8.9M Y/y
- LXS GY : Lanxess Sees 2Q Adjusted Ebitda EU280M to EU350M, Est. EU304.2M
- LR FP : Legrand 1Q Adjusted Operating Profit Beats Estimates
- LHA GY : Lufthansa Boosts Capacity as Demand Gains; Cost Outlook Unclear
- MB IM : Mediobanca Names Baldelli Co-Head of Global Investment Banking
- MONC IM : Moncler 1Q Revenue Beats Estimates
- MTX GY : MTU Aero Names Lars Wagner New CEO, Succeeding Winkler
- NEL NO : Nel Gets EU2m Order for Alkaline Electrolyzer System
- NETC DC : Netcompany 1Q Revenue Matches Estimates
- NWO GY : New Work 1Q Pro Forma Revenue EU75.9M
- ORK NO : Orkla 1Q Adjusted Ebit Beats Estimates
- SEPL LN : Exxon Flags Possible $500 Million Loss on Nigeria Sale to Seplat
- SESG FP : SES 1Q Adjusted Ebitda Beats Estimates
- SGL GY : SGL 1Q Adjusted Ebitda EU36.8M Vs. EU33M Y/y
- SAE GY : Shop Apotheke 1Q Adj. Ebitda Margin -1.4% Vs. 2% Y/y
- SGRE SM : Siemens Gamesa 2Q Underlying Ebit Margin -14% Vs. +4.8% Y/y
- GLE FP : SocGen 1Q Revenue Beats Estimates
- SREN SW : Swiss Re 1Q Net Loss $248M, Est. Loss $72.6M
- TIT IM : Telecom Italia 1Q Organic Ebitda Misses Estimates
- TEF SM : Telefonica in Talks to Buy BE-Terna for About EU375M: Expansion
- UCG IM : UniCredit Books EU1.3b in Loan Provisions in 1Q Driven By Russia
- UPONOR FH : Uponor Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley, Cheap But Lacks Catalysts
- VLA FP : Valneva Maintains FY Revenue Forecast
- VASTN NA : Vastned Sees FY EPS EU1.95 to EU2.05, Est. EU1.98
- VCT FP : Vicat 1Q Like-for-Like Sales +12.4%
- RIN FP : Vilmorin 3Q Like-for-Like Sales +4%
- VNA GY : Vonovia 1Q Adjusted Ebitda Beats Estimates
- VOW GY : Volkswagen to Invest $250M in Argentina in 2022-26
- ZQL GY : Zalando Sees FY GMV Low End of +16% to +23%, Saw +16% to +23%

>>> US After Hours Summary: ALB +17.1%, BKNG +11%, TRIP +6.7% higher on earnings; PING -11.9%, ETSY -9.9%, EBAY -5.9%, FSLY -5.7% lower on earnings


After Hours Summary: ALB +17.1%, BKNG +11%, TRIP +6.7% higher on earnings; PING -11.9%, ETSY -9.9%, EBAY -5.9%, FSLY -5.7% lower on earnings

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: ALB +17.1%, ONEM +14.8%, STAA +11.2%, BKNG +11%, RUN +10.9% (also mixed shelf), NGVT +8.3%, NVST +8.2%, MNTV +6.8%, TRIP +6.7% (also names new CEO), FTNT +5.6%, BAND +5.5%, ECPG +5.4%, PETQ +5.2% (also names new COO), RYN +5.2%, GXO +4.9%, SGFY +4.9%, TWNK +4.7%, WHD +4.5%, DGII +4.3%, IIPR +4%, SHO +3.9%, FLEX +3.7%, GDDY +3.5%, LOCO +3.5%, TWLO +3.4%, ICFI +3.3%, QNST +3.3% (also approves $40 mln for share repurchases), ACAD +3%, QDEL +3%, NMIH +2.9%, STOR +2.9%, AMPL +2.8%, ATO +2.6%, GBT +2.6%, LSI +2.5%, SRI +2.4%, SRPT +2.4%, LUMN +2.1%, DIOD +1.9%, NUVA +1.9%, CCRN +1.8%, HST +1.8%, AXON +1.8% (CFO steps down; co raises FY22 revenue and adjusted EBITDA guidance), RGLD +1.5%, ACLS +1.3%, CHK +1.3%, ET +1.2%, OTEX +1.1%, VAPO +1.1%, CDE +0.8%, KLIC +0.8%, RLJ +0.8%, GIL +0.6%, ALL +0.5%, MMS +0.5%, RSI +0.5%, BKH +0.4%, MRTX +0.4%, PXD +0.4%, TTEK +0.4%, AFG +0.3%, ES +0.3% (also CFO to retire), GKOS +0.3%, ONL +0.3%, CTVA +0.2%, RCII +0.2%, IR +0.1%, MTG +0.1%, NVRO +0.1%, ACEL +0.1%

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: AXGN +10.2% (reports top-line results from RECON study of Avance Nerge Graft), LPG +7.6% (increases dividend), FLMN +6.7% (provides Q1 production results; increases dividend), SMSI +0.9% (files for $75 mln mixed securities shelf offering), GPOR +0.9% (files mixed shelf offering; also stock offering by selling shareholders), KLIC +0.8% (receives two purchase orders for Luminex), SWX +0.6% (Icahn in talks to reach a truce, according to Bloomberg), AVTR +0.1% (to create new manufacturing hub in Singapore), MKL +0.1% (co-CEO to retire)

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: CXW -16.4%, PING -11.9%, VMEO -11%, ETSY -9.9%, RPD -8.1%, SKLZ -8.1%, SFM -7.5%, WOLF -7.4%, AVID -6.9%, ESTE -6.9%, CDEV -6.1%, EBAY -5.9%, FSLY -5.7% (also initiates search for new CEO), TPC -5.6%, EVA -5.4%, CTSH -5.2%, LPI -5.2%, QRVO -5.1%, IRBT -4.9%, DOCN -4.8%, NSA -4.2%, NUS -3.8%, PAA -3.4%, VICI -3.4%, APA -3.1%, ORCC -3%, ALGT -2.9%, LOPE -2.8%, CDAY -2.5%, OCDX -2.3%, SUM -2.3%, JAZZ -2.2% (also enters into an licensing agreement with Sumitomo Pharma), UPLD -2.1%, CLR -2%, INSG -2%, TWO -1.9%, KD -1.5%, CPE -1.4%, FSR -1.4%, MGNI -1.4%, PLMR -1.2%, FATE -1.1%, MRO -1%, TMST -0.7%, DCP -0.5%, EPR -0.5%, NARI -0.5%, PACB -0.5%, SITM -0.5%, CF -0.4%, CNMD -0.4% (also to acquire In2Bones for $145 mln), TNDM -0.4%, SJI -0.4%, CW -0.3%, KW -0.3%, SAVE -0.3%, THRY -0.3%, EVH -0.3%, O -0.2%, PAY -0.2%, UGI -0.2% (also increases dividend), FNV -0.1%, LNC -0.1%, RPT -0.1%, REGI -0.1%, CIVI -0.1%

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: EMKR -10.5% (awarded contract for custom MEMS gyroscopes), VLRS -3.9% (reports April traffic), CBOE -1.4% (reports April trading volume), NIO -1.1% (several China names added to SEC HFCAA list), LI -0.7% (several China names added to SEC HFCAA list), TWTR -0.4% (Elon Musk looking at old financial brokers for TWTR bid, according to NY Post), CNP -0.4% (receives approval for power purchase agreements in Indiana), JD -0.4% (several China names added to SEC HFCAA list), MTRN -0.2% (increases dividend)

>>> US Close Dow +2,81% S&P +2,99% Nasdaq +3,19%

Closing Stock Market Summary

The S&P 500 rallied 3.0% on Wednesday after Fed Chair Powell said the Fed was not actively considering hiking rates by 75 basis points in coming meetings. The Nasdaq Composite rose 3.2%, the Dow Jones Industrial Average rose 2.8%, and the Russell 2000 rose 2.7%.

All 11 S&P 500 sectors closed higher with gains ranging from 1.1% (real estate) to 4.1% (energy). Ten sectors advanced more than 2.0%.

Mr. Powell added that if the economy evolves as expected, the central bank will likely raise rates by 50 basis points at the next two meetings. The less-hawkish comments followed an FOMC policy decision that was largely in-line with expectations. 

Today, the voting committee increased the target range for the fed funds rate by 50 basis points to 0.75-1.00% and approved a plan to shrink the Fed's balance sheet that involves capping reinvestments from principal payments. 

Starting June 1, the cap for Treasuries will be initially set at $30 billion per month and then increase to $60 billion after three months. The cap for agency debt and mortgage-backed securities will be set at $17.5 billion per month and then increase to $35 billion after three months.

The 2-yr yield, which is sensitive to changes in the fed funds rate, dropped 15 basis points to 2.61%. The 10-yr yield decreased four basis points to 2.92% after topping 3.00% intraday. The U.S. Dollar Index fell 0.9% to 102.57. The CBOE Volatility Index fell 13.1% to 25.42.

Prior to the Fed decision, growth stocks were underperforming in the wake of disappointing Q2 revenue guidance from Lyft (LYFT 21.56, -9.20, -29.9%). Shares of Lyft plunged 30%. Uber (UBER 28.10, -1.37, -4.7%) fell in 5% in sympathy despite beating expectations. 

Advanced Micro Devices (AMD 99.42, +8.29, +9.1%), Airbnb (ABNB 156.18, +11.18, +7.7%), Starbucks (SBUX 81.64, +7.31, +9.8%), Moderna (MRNA 155.05, +8.51, +5.8%), and Paycom Software (PAYC 328.20, +39.74, +13.8%), however, were some of the earnings standouts. 

Separately, WTI crude futures rose 5.2%, or $5.29, to $107.97/bbl amid news that the European Commission proposed to phase out Russian crude imports in the next six months and refined oil products by year-end.

Reviewing Wednesday's economic data:

  • The ISM Non-Manufacturing Index for March decreased to 57.1% (consensus 58.7%) from 58.3% in March. The dividing line between expansion and contraction is 50.0%. The April reading marks the 23rd straight month of growth for the services sector.
    • The key takeaway from the report is that business activity for the non-manufacturing sector slowed in April with many respondents noting pricing pressures, supply chain issues, and labor supply constraints as impediments for stronger growth.
  • The trade deficit widened to a record $109.8 billion in March (consensus -$97.5 billion) from a downwardly revised $89.8 billion (from $89.2 billion) in February. Exports were $241.7 billion, $12.9 billion more than February exports. Imports were $351.5 billion, $32.9 billion more than February imports.
    • The key takeaway from the report is that it underscores the strong demand seen in the U.S., as well as some possible inventory stuffing, but it also goes to show that demand abroad is less robust as more than half of the export increase was driven by energy supplies.
  • The ADP Employment Change report estimated that 247,000 jobs were added to private sector payrolls in April (consensus 390,000). The increase in March was upwardly revised to 479,000 from 455,000.
  • The final IHS Markit Services PMI for April increased to 55.6 from 54.7 in the preliminary reading.
  • The weekly MBA Mortgage Applications Index increased 2.5% following an 8.5% decline in the prior week.

Looking ahead, investors will receive the weekly Initial and Continuing Claims report and preliminary Productivity and Unit Labor Costs for the first quarter on Thursday.

  • Dow Jones Industrial Average -6.3% YTD
  • S&P 500 -9.8% YTD
  • Russell 2000 -13.2% YTD
  • Nasdaq Composite -17.1% YTD

Business Of Fashion : Kering Invests in Lab-Grown Leather Startup

Kering Invests in Lab-Grown Leather Startup
The French luxury giant participated in a $46 million funding round intended to accelerate commercialisation of San Francisco-based VitroLabs’ lab-grown leather.

  • Lab-grown leather startup VitroLabs has raised $46 million from a group of investors including Kering, Bestseller and several venture firms.
  • Interest in alternative new materials that could help companies meet sustainability goals is growing among fashion companies.
  • VitroLabs plans to use the funds to fast-track commercialisation of its cell-cultivated leather.

French luxury giant Kering has invested in San Francisco-based lab-grown leather startup VitroLabs, the latest sign of fashion’s growing appetite for new materials that could help companies meet sustainability goals.

The conglomerate made a “significant” investment — alongside Leonardo DiCaprio, Danish fashion company Bestseller’s venture arm and several venture capital firms — as part of a $46 million Series A funding round, VitroLabs said Wednesday. The terms of the deal were not disclosed.

Fashion’s interest in next-generation materials has been growing alongside consumer demand for more sustainable and cruelty-free products. Years of research and development efforts are also beginning to result in more mature technologies and products, which have generated increased interest from investors.

The space has attracted $2.3 billion in funding since 2015, with the pace of investment growing rapidly, according to the Material Innovation Initiative, a nonprofit.

Kering’s investment in VitroLabs is the latest in a series of recent bets by the group focused on furthering its sustainability goals and tapping into shifting consumer behaviour. The company acquired a 5 percent stake in resale site Vestiaire Collective last March and invested an undisclosed sum in handbag subscription service Cocoon last June.

“A partner like this is a stamp of approval, and we’re seeing more and more brands starting to look for solutions when it comes to leather,” said VitroLabs co-founder and chief executive Ingvar Helgason.

While many companies have focused on plant-based leather alternatives made from materials like mushrooms or grapes, VitroLabs uses stem cells to grow leather that’s indistinguishable from the real thing without needing to raise and slaughter animals. That means the material can in theory plug into existing supply chains of tanneries and artisans, while cutting out the heavy environmental impact and animal welfare issues associated with cattle farming. It also doesn’t require additional synthetic coatings, like many imitation leathers do.

On the other hand, many leather alternatives have already made it to market and are moving to scale up production. VitroLabs must prove its material can move from prototype to product, building on years of work to nail the science to scale a cluster of animal cells into a hide that can be tanned and crafted.

The company, which was founded in 2016, said it will use the series A funds to fast-track commercialisation of its lab-grown leather, expanding its scientific manufacturing and business development teams. It moved into a 45,000 square foot facility designed for pilot production last fall.

It’s been working with Kering since 2018 to understand how its cultured skins could be turned into luxury handbags, belts and shoes, but Helgason declined to provide a timeline for when products made from VitroLabs’ cell-cultivated leather might hit the market.

Business Of Fashion : Could Exotic Skins Go the Same Way as Fur?

Could Exotic Skins Go the Same Way as Fur?
While some companies have denounced the use of crocodile, snake and ostrich skins to make high-end leather goods, others are doubling down on the product category.

  • With most top luxury brands now fur-free, animal rights campaigners are renewing pressure to stop the use of exotic skins.
  • A similar domino effect to the one seen in fur has yet to take hold, with some brands doubling down on the product category.
  • New material innovations that could one day replace animal skins are attracting growing interest, but are still some way from becoming commercial alternatives.

When Gucci declared fur passé in 2017, it captured a shift in attitudes that helped push the material off the shelves of most of fashion’s biggest luxury brands and retailers in the space of a few years.

Now animal rights campaigners are hoping to propel a similar movement in exotic skins, aiming to persuade big luxury brands that ostrich-skin bags and snakeskin boots are also no longer appealing to an increasingly conscious consumer base.

PETA has plastered the streets of New York with posters calling on large luxury brands to ditch the materials. It’s staged protests outside Gucci and Louis Vuitton stores, and demanded Kering, LVMH and Hermès explain why they have not switched to vegan alternatives at the luxury giants’ respective annual meetings.

But a similar domino effect to the one seen in fur has yet to take hold, even though a handful of big-name brands have moved away from the materials (notably Chanel in 2018). Instead, some brands are doubling down on the product category.

Celine will launch a line of exclusive, made-to-order crocodile skin bags in October this year, while stablemate Dior’s revamped Paris flagship has an entire section dedicated to goods made from exotic leathers. Louis Vuitton has deepened its stake in exotic skins production with two specialised leather goods workshops in France, officially opened in early April.

At its root, experts say, the issue is that for most brands ditching exotic skins is a much bigger business decision than scrapping fur.

The Bottom Line

For many brands, the decision to drop fur was made easier by the fact that the material made up a small portion of sales. That is not necessarily true for exotic skins. The category probably contributes between 10 and 100 times more to luxury brands’ revenue, according to Bernstein analyst Luca Solca.

Exotic leather goods — a seasonless category that, unlike fur, transcends specific climates — also telegraph wealth and status. That drives demand among high-net-worth customers in both emerging and developed markets. “Exotic skins are particularly important to qualify brands in the high-end,” Solca said in an email exchange with BoF. As “Dior, Louis Vuitton, Celine cultivate ambitions to elevate their standing, exotic skins are a key plank to implement this strategy.”

Thanks to its steadfast appeal among ultra-wealthy customers, the category has proven resilient during the pandemic too: exotic leather goods accounted for around 5 to 10 percent of the total leather goods market in 2021, amounting to a market value between €3 billion and €6 billion ($3.2 billion and $6.3 billion), said Federica Levato, partner and leader of EMEA luxury and fashion at Bain & Company.

Changing Tastes

Whether the financial calculus involved in using exotic skins changes may come down to consumer taste, a key factor in convincing many big brands to stop using fur. Even LVMH, the parent company of furrier Fendi and luxury’s biggest holdout on fur, has revealed plans to explore innovative, animal-free alternatives to the material with an eye on consumer demand.

That same logic should apply to exotic skins, animal rights activists say, particularly as more brands seek to court sustainably minded Gen-Z consumers by demonstrating their commitment to environmental and social responsibility.

There are signs this argument is gaining traction with some companies. Moda Operandi recently said it would stop buying virgin fur or exotic leathers, though the company may still occasionally resell vintage items containing the materials. The online luxury retailer follows other companies that have ditched exotic skins over the years, including Selfridges, Nordstrom, Mulberry and PVH, the parent company of brands including Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger. Many cited commitments to sustainability as the rationale.

Those who have already banned the material “saw the writing was on the wall” for a shift in consumer sentiment, said PETA director of outreach Ashley Byrne. “The idea that [exotic skins] would be associated in any way with luxury is just absurd,” she said.

Compared to other materials, like cow leather, exotics are also more vulnerable to criticism as these animals are typically bred, captured and killed solely for their skins.

“I think most companies feel comfortable using products that are considered byproducts of the meat industry,“ said PJ Smith, fashion policy director for the Humane Society United States. “You just can’t do that with exotic skins.”

Responsibly Sourced Reptiles

Big brands have sought to stave off any backlash to exotic skins by promoting efforts to secure transparent and ethical supply chains, investing in or acquiring suppliers and working with internationally recognised standards and certifications to shore up animal welfare policies. Both Kering and LVMH have committed to achieving full traceability in their exotics supply chains by 2025.

Nonetheless, investigations as recently as last year found brutal practices at crocodile farms and reptile skinneries allegedly linked to Hermès, Kering and LVMH brands.

In response to the allegations, all three companies highlighted their animal welfare standards and commitment to full traceability in their exotics supply chains. Kering said there was no evidence that any of its brands were connected with the practices or suppliers shown in the investigation’s footage.

But full traceability — even among integrated supply chains — remains a challenge. When Chanel stopped using exotic skins in 2018, the company said the decision came down to difficulties establishing ethical supply chains.

“While Hermès may want to be able to have a crocodile purse on the boutique shelf, and be able to tell you that the animal was farmed and raised in captivity and humanely slaughtered based on [a] barcode that’s inside the purse, it’s just not going to happen,” said Bruce Weissgold, a wildlife trade expert who worked on compliance with rules governing the trade in exotic skins in the US Fish and Reptile Service for 25 years.

A Materials Revolution?

One additional pressure for brands that could change the equation is the development of lookalike plant-based alternatives to exotic skins.

Investment in next-generation materials has boomed in recent years. Start-ups developing innovative alternatives to animal fibres like leather, silk, wool, fur and exotic skins received $980 million worth of funding in 2021, more than double the amount raised in 2020, according to an analysis from the Material Innovation Initiative published in March 2022. Many brands that dropped fur still produce collections made from fake alternatives that serve as sophisticated — albeit often plastic-based — imitations of the real thing.

Luxury players have also partnered with material innovators aimed at developing leather alternatives. For instance, Hermès has teamed up with California-based MycoWorks, which is producing a high-quality leather-like material from mycelium, the root structures of mushrooms. LVMH and Kering both pointed to their work with mycelium and bio-based alternatives to real leather in response to PETA’s questions about adopting animal-free textiles at their shareholders’ meetings last month. On Wednesday, Kering was part of a $46 million funding round for lab-grown leather company VitroLabs.

But many of these innovations are still years from commercial scale and very few focus specifically on replacements for exotic skins. That makes it harder to see a large-scale shift away from the category in the near term while consumers still see allure in crocodile bags and snakeskin boots.

The Information : Netflix Backs Away From Free-for-All Pay Policy

A ‘Netflix for Sports’ Wagers on League Deals, Betting to Save Streaming Dreams

Early last year, it looked like DAZN might finally be turning a corner.

The streaming company—bankrolled by Ukraine-born billionaire mogul Len Blavatnik—had survived the shutdown of live sports during the pandemic, a near-death experience for a company with the ambition of becoming a global Netflix for sports. It beat out British broadcaster Sky for the rights to stream Serie A soccer matches, Italy’s top league, a deal the company hoped would help lift its subscriber numbers to 13 million by the end of 2021 from around 9 million at the start of the year. Blavatnik was even considering taking the company public through a merger with a special purpose acquisition company.

Since then, though, DAZN has hit a wall. Its subscriber numbers have stalled at around 11 million, said people familiar with the situation. It lost more than $1 billion last year on around $1.4 billion in revenue, and is on track to lose roughly another $900 million this year, those people said. Meanwhile, talks to go public have fizzled amid a collapse of the SPAC market. And a big chunk of the company’s management team has been pushed out.

THE TAKEAWAY
• DAZN lost more than $1 billion last year
• Service fell short of 13 million subscriber target for the end of 2021
• Tech investments have taken back seat to sports rights

These are uneasy times for a growing number of streaming services, notably Netflix, that are experiencing growth challenges. But services like DAZN face an additional obstacle since live sports have been slower to migrate to streaming than other forms of entertainment such as movies and television shows.

That’s in large part because rights to the best games and leagues have been tied up in expensive, multiyear deals with established broadcasters. And competition for those rights is intensifying as much bigger tech players like Amazon and Apple begin bidding more seriously for games.

In an interview with The Information, Kevin Mayer—the former Walt Disney Co. executive whom Blavatnik hired as nonexecutive chair of DAZN—said one of the main reasons DAZN didn’t grow as fast as it expected was because the company overestimated how quickly people in Europe would be willing to cut the cord to traditional television providers in favor of streaming services.

“It’s taken a bit longer than anticipated because of the natural inertia in any new market that requires some consumer habit changes,” Mayer said.

Still, Mayer argued that DAZN is on a better footing than it has been in the past now that it has sports rights in all the major markets in Europe. In December, it won Spain’s La Liga soccer rights in December for five years, adding to its Bundesliga and UEFA Champions League soccer offerings in Germany and Serie A rights in Italy. And under new management, the company has a clearer strategy, Mayer said, and is bolstering its business model by pursuing new sources of revenue besides subscriber fees.

For example, as part of a push into sports gambling, DAZN this month announced a joint venture, DAZN Bet, with London-based Pragmatic Group to enable subscribers to bet on games. Eventually, DAZN hopes 60% of its revenue will come from subscriptions, 20% from betting and 20% from advertising and commerce, Mayer said.

“Now we are setting about to monetize as fully as possible premium local sports rights,” he said.

While DAZN offers a version of its service for U.S. subscribers—with an emphasis on boxing—the company has focused more on snapping up sports rights outside the U.S. where Blavatnik and others believe there is less competition and more opportunity for growth. The value of U.S. sports rights airing this year is expected to hit almost $20 billion, compared to $13 billion for the top five European markets combined, including Germany, Italy, the U.K., France and Spain, according to London-based research firm Ampere Analysis.

One of the biggest tests yet for whether DAZN can make its business work will come when a new season for European soccer kicks off in the third quarter, which is likely to drive a wave of fans to sign up to the service. DAZN plans to launch its new betting offering by then, assuming it can get regulatory approvals in local markets.

But the better selection of sports on the service will come at a steeper price: In July, a new monthly fee of €29.99 ($31.57) will go into effect for existing DAZN subscribers in Germany—double the previous fee. It’s also planning a price hike for Italian subscribers, which it has not yet announced the details of, at the start of the Serie A season in August, the company said. Such price increases can be risky: Netflix’s subscriber growth stalled recently after it raised prices.

Blavatnik, for one, wants to see more progress from DAZN this year, said people familiar with the situation. He has grown frustrated by the company’s history of heavy losses, the people said. Blavatnik, who made a fortune by acquiring Warner Music Group and later taking it public, has pumped more than $5 billion into DAZN so far and has been pushing its executives for faster changes.

DAZN has sought to raise outside financing in the past, but its efforts stumbled because of the company’s heavy losses and the structure of Blavatnik’s controlling stake, which he previously held through preferred shares. That meant any conversion of those shares to common stock would dilute the holdings of new shareholders. Earlier this year—at Mayer’s urging—DAZN restructured its ownership by trading Blavatnik’s preferred shares for common stock and eliminating its debt, an attempt to make DAZN more attractive for outside investors, said people familiar with the situation. Now investors know Blavatnik’s stake before they buy in.

DAZN expects its revenue this year to be around $3 billion, according to the people, and has a goal of breaking even in 2023 and showing profits in 2024, according to one of the people.

Costly Distractions

DAZN’s success may depend partly on whether it can put one constant over its history—management drama—in the rearview mirror. Almost since it was founded in 2016, there has been turmoil in its executive ranks, which many current and former employees said was a costly distraction that held DAZN back.

‘It’s taken a bit longer than anticipated because of the natural inertia in any new market that requires some consumer habit changes.’
DAZN’s former executive chair, John Skipper, a longtime ESPN executive, and its CEO, Simon Denyer, clashed over strategy, including how much to spend for streaming rights to boxing matches in the U.S. and what sports rights packages the company should pay up for abroad. Denyer left DAZN last year, and Skipper is no longer its executive chair, though he remains on the board.

In January 2021, Blavatnik replaced Denyer with James Rushton, one of DAZN’s founders and a well-liked executive at the company, and then subsequently brought in Shay Segev, previously CEO of Entain, a sports betting company, as co-CEO. Around the same time, Blavatnik also tapped Mayer to become nonexecutive chair, a move many DAZN employees welcomed because of his involvement in launching Disney’s flagship streaming service, Disney+.

But some DAZN employees became concerned when David Zaslav, now CEO of Warner Bros. Discovery, announced in November that Mayer would be a consultant to the company that emerged from the combination of Discovery and Warner Media. Discovery owns European sports broadcaster Eurosport, a major competitor to DAZN. Mayer made it clear to Blavatnik that he would stay out of all sports-related conversations at Warner Bros. Discovery to avoid any conflicts, said a person familiar with the discussions. Mayer wears many other hats as well, including that of co-CEO of Candle Media, an entertainment company backed by private equity giant Blackstone.

This year, Blavatnik shook things up again, believing DAZN needed to do more to grow the service faster. In January, Blavatnik named Segev sole CEO of the company, relieving Rushton of co-CEO duties. Rushton will remain on the board and is expected to relocate to Australia, where he’ll continue to work part-time advising the company’s Japanese arm.

In the past several weeks, Segev has brought in an entirely new management team, including a new chief technology officer, regional heads and a new head of betting. Among the executives departing DAZN are Ben King, a former Apple executive who was chief subscription business officer at DAZN for over three years, and chief financial officer Stuart Epstein, who is leaving this summer.

While DAZN has focused on global markets because of cutthroat competition in the U.S., those markets are heating up too, especially as tech giants get in on the bidding for sports rights. For example, last summer, Amazon paid a reported €275 million a year for rights to France’s Ligue 1 soccer game.

In February, DAZN reportedly made an $800 million bid for BT Sport, a media arm of telecommunications company BT, which owns a number of pay TV channels in the U.K. Such a deal would have given DAZN rights to the much-coveted English Premier League and UEFA Champions League matches for the next few years in the U.K. Instead, BT Sport struck a partnership with Warner Bros. Discovery, which is still pending regulatory approval, according to a person familiar with the situation.

DAZN’s pockets simply aren’t as deep as those of its rivals. Amazon, which offers live sports as part of its broader Prime membership service, and traditional television distributors like Sky are able to better absorb the costs of sports rights because they view it as one small piece of bigger businesses, said Mike Darcey, a former Sky TV New Zealand executive who is chair of British Gymnastics, the governing body for the sport in the U.K.

“When Sky bids for rights, the amount of money they are willing to bid reflects not just the money they win back from streaming the sports rights to the viewers, but also [the way] they position those sports rights at the center of a broader bundle that includes other content and broadband,” Darcey said.

Still, DAZN has been willing to dig deep into its wallet in some cases. It paid a reported €2.5 billion ($2.6 billion) for the three-year deal for Serie A soccer matches, beating out Sky. But the costliness of those deals has had consequences for DAZN, forcing it to make compromises in other key areas.

For example, several people familiar with the matter said the company’s management hasn’t made enhancing its technology platform a priority because of the need to preserve cash for sports rights deals. For example, DAZN just recently began testing functions that allow users to watch games on a pay-per-view basis.

Its technology also doesn’t have the ability to allow betting from inside the app, despite the fact that executives have talked about getting into betting for years (DAZN Bet, a new offering, will work through a separate app). Other people familiar with the matter said the lack of focus on those tech enhancements was less about resources and more a result of the distractions caused by infighting between former managers.

DAZN will also have to start saving its euros for the next round of bidding for sports rights given that in Europe most major soccer rights are up every three years, said Tim Westcott, senior principal analyst at London-based media research firm Omdia.

“The cycle is punishing for broadcasters,” Westcott said.

The Information : Netflix Backs Away From Free-for-All Pay Policy

Netflix Backs Away From Free-for-All Pay Policy

Netflix has long prided itself on giving managers the ability to pay what they see fit to attract and retain top talent. Now, as it grapples with stalled growth, it’s reining in that freewheeling practice.

The streaming company is establishing a new hierarchy of internal seniority levels and associated pay as it is looking to better control costs, according to people with knowledge of the work. It is in the early stages of creating formal salary bands like those big entertainment companies widely use, starting with staff in technical roles and working its way through other positions over time, the people said.

THE TAKEAWAY
• Netflix is creating new internal seniority levels and associated pay
• Streaming giant is under pressure to control costs after subscriber loss and stock drop
• Netflix managers historically had freedom to pay whatever was necessary to nab talent

During the yearslong boom in streaming subscribers, Netflix lured talent with large compensation packages that gave it an edge on hiring over other companies. But that approach can contribute to pay disparities that can become costly and controversial to fix, compensation consultants say.

It also led to outsize and in some cases unpredictable costs. As recently as a few weeks ago, Netflix raised one product employee’s salary $100,000 to keep her from joining a competitor, said a person familiar with the discussions.

The overhaul of Netflix’s compensation structure comes as the streaming giant is facing a slowdown in subscriber growth that has cast a cloud over its long-term growth prospects. Last month, Netflix posted its first quarterly decline in subscribers in over a decade, and it said it expects a further decline in the second quarter. The slowdown has sent Netflix shares falling nearly 70% so far this year.

As Netflix’s streaming business took off, its workforce exploded in size, with employee numbers rising from 2,189 at the end of 2014 to 11,300 at the end of December. To attract people, Netflix offered pay packages to some recruits that were far above what they could make at rival companies and inconsistent with what some other staff with similar experience or scopes of work in other parts of the company might make, according to current and former employees and recruiters.

One senior product manager at Netflix, for instance, makes around $700,000 to $750,000, while a senior product manager at Disney, which does have compensation bands, typically makes around half of that, according to people familiar with the situation. Netflix’s human resources staff typically has had limited oversight over managers’ hiring decisions, a person familiar with Netflix’s changes said.

No Pay Cuts

While the introduction of the compensation bands won’t mean employees will have to take pay cuts, it could cap how much they are able to make. Netflix, though, seems keen to send the message that its generous compensation practices aren’t going to change. At a recent employee town hall, in response to questions about compensation, Netflix executives assured employees the company would continue to offer top-of-the-market pay.

And according to a person close to the company, once the new bands are introduced, managers will still be able to pay beyond the ranges set if they can make a point as to why they should do so. Netflix is hoping that by establishing bands, it will make it easier for the company to compare what it pays employees with those doing the same thing elsewhere, the person said. They added that the compensation bands are not being implemented as a result of budget constraints.

Creation of the new bands is in the early stages, one of the people said. It is unclear when it will be complete or when Netflix will apply the framework to broad swaths of its workforce.

Given how aggressively Netflix has grown over the past few years, it makes sense that the company would take a beat and set up compensation bands now, said James Reda, managing director of the executive compensation practice at Gallagher, a benefits consulting firm.

“It brings some discipline to hiring and probably saves some money,” he said. Establishing compensation bands can also help employees better understand their potential career progression at the company, Reda noted. “If there is no banding, it’s a bit of a free-for-all.”

Even before Netflix reported the first-quarter results, executives were warning employees to be more careful about spending and hiring. It has already taken steps to lower marketing costs, while trying to bring programming spending under control. More notably, Netflix co-CEO Reed Hastings revealed on the first-quarter earnings conference call that Netflix was exploring adding a tier carrying ads to the service, reversing his long-standing opposition to that option.

Value of Freedom

In the past, Hastings has also championed Netflix’s free-for-all compensation strategy. In his 2020 book, “No Rules Rules,” he stressed the need to remove controls and give staff broad freedom. “The costs from overspending are not nearly as high as the gains that freedom provides,” he wrote.

In the book, Hastings described his decision, with then–talent head Patty McCord, to ensure that the company offered “the most attractive methods of compensation.” That included putting more resources into salaries than bonuses and committing to pay whatever was necessary to hire and keep the best employees.

The compensation changes could make Netflix a less appealing place to work. The sharp drop in Netflix’s stock price has already hurt staff morale, given that stock option grants have long been a key feature of their compensation. Unlike many other Silicon Valley and publicly traded companies that hand staff a mix of cash and equity that vests over time, Netflix allows staff to decide how much of their pay they want to receive as options and how much as cash. It grants the options monthly and they vest immediately.

While Netflix’s compensation policy gave employees a chance to make lots of money while the stock was soaring, it’s a different story now. Netflix’s current stock price of about $195 is far below the average value of options outstanding. Options granted since 2018 are worthless at the current price.

After Netflix’s April stock drop following a surprisingly bad earnings report, some employees asked leaders to consider issuing extra option grants to offset value lost in the decline, The Information reported.