Business Of Fashion : China’s Fosun Fashion Group Rebrands to Lanvin Group

China’s Fosun Fashion Group Rebrands to Lanvin Group

Lanvin Group’s investors now include Japan’s Itochu Corporation, a trading and textile company, Chinese footwear giant Stella International and private equity firm, Xizhi Capital. Its latest capital round brings the value of the fashion group to $1 billion, according to a press release.

“Lanvin Group will draw upon Itochu and Stella International’s market expertise, know-how and resources in the luxury footwear and textile categories to boost our global supply chain and distribution capabilities. This will not only enable our portfolio brands to build a strong foothold in the Japan market and broaden their product offering, but also enable them to meet growing luxury demand both globally and in China,” said Lanvin Group chairman, Joann Cheng.

The former Fosun Fashion Group has been busy over the pandemic period, adding both new brands (it purchased Sergio Rossi in June) and building out its network of strategic partners, which also include New World Development’s luxury shopping mall group K11, Chinese e-commerce partner Baozun, Chinese fashion and luxury marketing player Activation Group and apparel manufacturer Neo-Concept Group.

The five Lanvin Group brands currently boast some 200 retail stores and 1,000 points of sale in more than 60 countries, according to the company.

Business Of Fashion : Is LVMH’s Big Bet on Tiffany Paying Off?

Is LVMH’s Big Bet on Tiffany Paying Off?
This week, everyone will be talking about LVMH’s third-quarter results, Alexander McQueen’s London show and J.C. Penney’s new beauty strategy.

  • LVMH reports third-quarter results on Oct. 12
  • In September, the company unveiled its first major campaign for Tiffany since acquiring the jeweller in January in a $16 billion deal that was the biggest in the luxury sector’s history
  • LVMH wants to position Tiffany more firmly in the luxury space, while both dusting off the jeweller’s heritage story and giving its brand greater contemporary cultural relevance
Tiffany’s transformation under LVMH is underway. The company installed a new executive team, including Alexandre Arnault and Michael Burke, soon after it acquired the dusty American jeweller in January, and has methodically applied its playbook for rebooting heritage brands: emphasise high-end product and shine up the brand’s backstory, while simultaneously tapping the current zeitgeist to create a juggernaut that is both timeless and of the moment, both classy and cool.
At Tiffany, this effort kicked into high gear in August with the unveiling of a major ad campaign featuring Beyonce and Jay-Z. It was met with mixed reviews online. But what matters most is its effectiveness in ultimately driving customers into stores. LVMH has indicated it’s already having success on that front, saying in its second-quarter results that the brand has “performed extremely well since its acquisition.”
The Bottom Line: LVMH is relying on Tiffany to compete head-on with hard-luxury rival Richemont. In its critical fashion and leather goods businesses, LVMH is far more secure, as cash cows Louis Vuitton and Dior roar out of the pandemic.

FT : Traders at banks fear missing out on the crypto party

Traders at banks fear missing out on the crypto party
Behemoths of traditional finance struggle to come up with a strategy for how to deal with digital currencies

Banks have a growing cryptocurrency problem. Internal trading desks and a broadening array of clients are pressuring senior management at large banks to launch services around cryptocurrencies.

Compliance departments and boards are less enthusiastic but there is a rising feeling that something must be done to avoid being left behind. It’s just not clear what and how.

The rise of companies built around bitcoin and other digital assets is threatening to make dealers look a bit like Wall Street executives aching to look cool at a hackathon: uncomfortable, filled with fear of missing out and struggling for relevance.

And aside from the potential hazards of crypto somehow dragging their good name through the mud at some point, banks also face a raft of very real challenges in their efforts to go digital: their technology is not up to it; they can’t move fast; they need to comply with regulations that are currently unclear or not yet in place. Talent is growing more and more difficult to find and keep. And what if it all turns out to be a big scam?

Despite the potential challenges, large banks can no longer shrug off digital coins, a market which has grown to $1.8tn in size.

“The digital asset universe is too large to ignore. We believe crypto-based digital assets could form an entirely new asset class,” said Bank of America in its first ever research note dedicated to crypto.

Several large US banks have made announcements about their involvement or planned ventures into digital markets, while many European dealers are quietly following suit.

Some, like Goldman Sachs, have chosen to make a splash with their efforts around crypto, deliberately creating a lot of noise about its baby steps. European banks are more tortured and, as a result, messaging is mixed.

In February, the research team of German lender Commerzbank sent out a note that explained why its analysts do not cover bitcoin, noting the bank “does not consider it to be its responsibility to comment on the price development of purely speculative investments or to predict it”. By September, the lender had established a digital asset team.

Deciding where the behemoths of traditional finance will fit into the cryptocurrency world is tricky. Custody, the highly technology-driven and complex process of storing digital assets, is risky and very difficult to insure.

Trading is equally dubious because right now banks can only buy and sell futures and other non-cash contracts, which makes it difficult to generate the sort of returns that trading companies native to crypto can. Lending is off limits for now. And companies that have been active in digital asset markets are far from scared.

“Crypto is expanding into . . . the traditional financial services market,” said David Kinitsky, chief executive of Kraken Bank. “Businesses [native to crypto] will win out over incumbents in this new medium, just as we’ve seen in other industries when the internet was introduced.”

Part of the problem is that everything to do with crypto involves cutting-edge technology — far from the sort of kit that the stalwarts of traditional finance are normally associated with. After years of consolidation and mergers, the technology that underlies banking giants is creaky, fragmented and often arcane.

“Banks are not really tech-forward companies. They just don’t have the digital infrastructure,” said Diogo Monica, co-founder of Anchorage Digital, a bank and cryptocurrency technology provider.

Talent is also an issue because banks are simply not as cool as they used to be. Recruiters say that investment banks are being forced to seek out retired coders to run arcane and tangled computer systems because young people no longer learn the “languages” required to operate some of the largest institutions on Wall Street.

“Banks definitely have a problem,” a specialist financial markets recruiter said, noting that young coders enjoy better pay and more flexibility at crypto or technology-focused companies. And in many cases the work is simply more interesting.

Not all is lost, however. Reputation and the significant client base they already have will be valuable, especially if more conservative investors such as insurance companies get involved. Lending and borrowing could also open up in the future.

“There will be a lot of counterparts who will feel more comfortable dealing with Goldman Sachs than a crypto native firm,” said Christine Trent Parker, a partner in the Financial Industry Group at law firm Reed Smith. And if their tech is not up to it, the banks can always buy it in.

FT : UK funds split over disclosing how much ‘skin in the game’ they have

UK funds split over disclosing how much ‘skin in the game’ they have
Retail platform Interactive Investor has challenged its ‘best buy’ funds to reveal staff stakes

A transparency push by Interactive Investor has divided some of the UK’s largest retail fund houses over whether portfolio managers should have to disclose personal stakes in the funds they manage.

The UK’s second-largest investment platform is pushing the country’s funds industry to match US standards on transparency around so-called “skin in the game”. It is challenging operators of funds on its “best buy” lists to reveal how much money fund managers have invested in their own funds.

The campaign has split some of the leading firms in UK fund management over whether these disclosures aid good governance and help retail investors to make better fund choices.

Some prominent investors believe it does. “Who would trust a chef who wouldn’t eat their own cooking?” said Terry Smith, founder and chief executive of Fundsmith, who said he has more than £250m invested in the funds he manages, which is “a substantial proportion of my wealth”. 

“It is important fund managers have skin in the game to truly deliver alignment of interest with investors and I also believe that disclosure of their stake should be mandatory,” he added.

Interactive Investor chief executive Richard Wilson in June urged UK regulators to require more transparency, backing standards similar to the US Securities and Exchange Commission, which requires that portfolio managers annually disclose the approximate size of their holdings in funds they manage.

UK public companies also have to disclose director and senior executives’ share dealings

“Disclosing skin in the game is an important issue of transparency,” said Wilson. He said the quiz of fund managers on the platform’s best buy list was “our way of making swift progress in this area”.

Recommended fund lists from major platforms hold considerable sway over investors looking to pick their own funds, but Interactive so far has no plans to bar managers who don’t disclose.

The well-known stock picking duo Michael Lindsell and Nick Train disclosed that they each have more than £1m invested in their own strategies.

But several major UK funds houses decline to hand over the information to Interactive Investor, and some argue that excessive focus on “skin in the game” can lead retail fund buyers astray.

“It’s just transparency for transparency’s sake that can actually lead people to the wrong conclusions,” said Robert Thorpe, head of distribution for UK and Europe at BMO Global Asset Management.

Thorpe argues that disclosing the stake of a named manager neglects the fact that many funds are run by large teams, and that investors could misinterpret changes in a manager’s holdings for purely personal reasons.

“A manager could have a call on their personal capital. Maybe their parent is going into a home. Does that reduction lead the investor to be concerned about the direction of the fund?” he said.

Ninety-four per cent of fund managers on Interactive Investors’ best buy lists said that they put their own money into their strategies. But more than half of managers, including funds run by Baillie Gifford, Fidelity International and abrdn, refused to reveal the size of managers’ holdings.

Baillie Gifford, the Edinburgh-based partnership that manages the Scottish Mortgage Investment Trust, said it leaves public disclosure of managers’ investments “down to personal preference”.

John Clougherty, head of wholesale at Fidelity International, said the company encourages portfolio managers to have ‘skin in the game’, “as we fundamentally believe it’s important align the interests of portfolio managers to that of our clients”.

Fidelity — as well as M&G, which declined to provide any details on skin in the game — said that portfolio managers’ incentives are already aligned with customers, since their pay is tied to long-term investment performance.

Abrdn declined to comment.

Interactive Investor’s campaign highlights the growing clout of investment platforms in the retail funds industry as investors increasingly self-select their funds using these online services. Roughly half of UK retail funds are bought on platforms like Interactive and larger rival Hargreaves Lansdown, up from 35 per cent a decade ago.

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