FT : The private equity club: how corporate raiders became teams of rivals

The private equity club: how corporate raiders became teams of rivals
The industry was founded by mercenary dealmakers who bludgeoned opponents. But firms now nurture complex relationships with their competitors

When buyout groups Hellman & Friedman and Permira began stalking a takeover of business software giant Zendesk in February, they tried to bring in a third partner for what would be a large deal. They called Blackstone, a firm that manages more than $125bn in private equity assets and that they each knew well from previous transactions.

Blackstone was initially interested in Zendesk but in the end it passed on the investment. However, the firm’s involvement did not end there. When H&F and Permira eventually announced their $10.2bn acquisition of the software company in June, the press release did not name any of the Wall Street banks that would usually provide the bridge loans to complete such a deal.

Instead, H&F and Permira said that amid choppy capital markets they had secured more than $4bn of debt financing. The debt came from a group of would-be competitors led by Blackstone.

Firms like Blackstone and Apollo, another lender in the deal, made their names as swashbuckling takeover artists. The industry was founded from the 1970s to the early 90s by small teams of mercenary dealmakers, who then duelled with each other to win control of large corporations such as RJR Nabisco, Alliance Boots, and Philips Semiconductors.

Private equity firms have since grown to manage almost $10tn in assets and have become the dominant force in globa financial markets.

But as the industry has expanded, its character has been transformed. Firms that once bludgeoned opponents now nurture complex business relationships with their competitors. Private equity has become just a fraction of their overall assets under management, with credit investing businesses now managing hundreds of billions of dollars, including providing loans for leveraged buyouts.

The result of these sprawling empires is that once heated rivals increasingly see the benefits of a level of co-operation between different business units that once seemed inconceivable.

“Private equity started 35 years ago as a dark art. Now it is an asset class,” Marc Rowan, chief executive of Apollo Global, told an audience earlier this year. “There are no permanent friends or permanent enemies anymore.”

With private equity deals now accounting for over 25 per cent of global M&A activity — a record market share — the collective power of the leading groups is starting to attract the attention of regulators.

Private equity takeovers, once rubber stamped by antitrust authorities, are now being treated with the scrutiny reserved for large corporations, competition watchdogs have told the Financial Times.

It is a striking reversal for a sector that has more often in the past been criticised by politicians for its ruthlessness rather than its clubbiness.

“When you have repeated relationships, you are just not going to go to war with the same ferocity,” says Josh Lerner, a professor at Harvard Business School, who has studied private equity for decades.

Relationships that run deep
The Zendesk takeover is illustrative of how deep the ties can run between leading private equity firms.

The origins of the takeover go back to 2016 when Permira invited H&F to make a minority investment in a call centre technology company called Genesys, which it had bought from Alcatel-Lucent four years earlier. H&F invested $900mn in Genesys at a $3.8bn valuation, more than double Permira’s initial investment.

H&F and Permira initially studied merging Genesys with Zendesk, according to sources directly involved in the deal. When the idea did not advance, they turned to Blackstone, which helped arrange more than $4bn in debt financing that is now the largest private financing on record.

For Blackstone, it meant supporting a deal led by two of its most important customers. Blackstone Credit, the buyout firm’s $230bn in assets lending arm, is a reliable lender to both firms. It provided the majority of $1.2bn in financing for H&F’s takeover of NPD Group in October 2021 and $2.2bn in debt for Permira’s take-private of cyber security group Mimecast two months later.

H&F co-led the largest leveraged buyout of 2021 alongside Blackstone, taking control of medical supplier Medline Industries for $34bn. A year earlier, the two firms struck an equally ambitious deal to merge their combined investments in human resources IT company Ultimate Software and cloud software specialist Kronos, in a $22bn deal.

To buy Zendesk, H&F and Permira raised billions in debt against a business that generated just $80mn in profits last year, far more than what regulated banks could offer, according to three people involved in the deal.

Blackstone, which considers H&F a skilled partner for takeovers, took part in the financing, as did Apollo, which financed more than $750mn of the takeover, and counts both firms among the 25 private equity firms to which it has lent over $40bn. Famed for its ruthless tactics with debtholders, Apollo now aspires to become a go-to financier for the deals organised by competitors.

“The zero-sum game mentality of old school dealmakers that always assumed that for them to win someone had to lose is really an outdated point of view,” says an executive at one of the industry’s largest global firms. “There are so many opportunities. Today you are competing and tomorrow you will bring them in as a partner on a deal. It is the new reality.”

Aggressive outsiders
The modern day private equity buyout traces to Michael Milken’s Drexel Burnham Lambert, the investment bank that popularised the “junk bond”. Drexel financed small teams of dealmakers targeting corporate giants such as Disney, Texaco and then RJR Nabisco, the signature LBO of the go-go 1980s.

Milken, and many of Drexel’s clients, were considered aggressive outsiders, unafraid to gatecrash Wall Street.

“The Drexel guys that Milken was backing were pretty non-genteel types,” says a buyout executive who worked in that era. “It was like the Gold Rush. The guys who couldn’t make it in the city went off to look for gold.”

By the 2008 crisis, private equity had become part of the financial mainstream as it pulled off a string of ever-larger takeovers. These so-called “club deals” hinted at the willingness of some firms to co-operate out of self-interest.


Buyout firms, then privately owned partnerships almost exclusively focused on corporate takeovers, could not always afford to purchase on their own some of the companies they considered attractive targets — such as hotelier Hilton, utility TXU, retailer Toys “R” Us, and hospital chain HCA. However, by assembling consortiums of competitors that each contributed a slice of the equity, almost any deal became possible.

These club deals led to some legal battles. A 2007 civil lawsuit in Massachusetts led by a pension fund in Detroit accused 16 private equity firms of forming consortiums that rigged bids in sale processes.

The case centred on the $33bn LBO of HCA, which was won by Bain Capital, KKR and Merrill Lynch, after there were no other competing bids. Emails unearthed by lawyers showed competitors refraining from outbidding each other.

“I don’t want to be in a pissing battle with KKR at the same time we are teaming on other deals,” said David Rubenstein, one of Carlyle’s founders, in an email unearthed during the litigation.

These deals were not all successes. Toys “R” Us, for instance, fell into restructuring. Moreover, to settle the Massachusetts litigation, Goldman Sachs and Bain Capital paid $121mn, while KKR, Blackstone and TPG agreed to pay $325mn, all without admitting or denying guilt.

By the time of the financial crisis, club deals had mostly vanished as investors found themselves exposed to the same failing investments in multiple funds and called for an end to the practice.

But the crisis also opened a window for buyout firms to transform themselves into much broader operations that are shifting the balance of power in finance towards private markets.

Investment banks, hamstrung by new regulations like the 2010 Dodd Frank Act, were curtailed from holding risky assets such as low-rated debts, which has limited their ability to finance many deals. As a result, corporations and private equity buyers have had to seek new ways of issuing debt. Blackstone, Apollo, KKR and Carlyle stepped into the void.

They bought billions of non-performing loans from banks in the US and Europe, betting that the portfolios would stabilise. As markets recovered, they shifted to originating new loans, underwriting midsized private equity takeovers that banks would not finance.

It set off private equity’s march into new businesses such as lending, insurance-related investments, real estate and infrastructure, which were far from their original speciality in buyouts.

Blackstone acquired debt manager GSO in 2008, seeding its expansion into credit and insurance-based investments, which now comprise 28 per cent of the group’s $940bn in assets.

Apollo, under current chief executive Rowan, built an insurer called Athene that was designed to invest fixed-rate annuity premiums into complex debts, like senior loans. These credit investments are now Apollo’s biggest and fastest growing business.


In private lending markets, the fastest growth has come from financing software takeovers, like Zendesk, which banks cannot handle due to the level of leverage involved. Several other large software deals this year, like Thoma Bravo’s $10.4bn takeover of Anaplan, were financed by private lenders because the leverage ratios on the debt are beyond what banks are comfortable handling.

In these deals, lenders will “club up” by assembling a consortium of competitors, resembling the consortiums of the pre-crisis era.

These private financings have continued as interest rates rise — just as many investment banks have been refusing to make new lending commitments until loans from deals struck earlier in the year have been sold on. The result has been a halt in the market for bank-financed takeovers and the private lenders winning market share.

“The idea that we would work with KKR and Blackstone to provide debt for us once seemed like a crazy idea. Today, people don’t even think about it,” says the head of one private equity firm. “There are no clean lines. Everyone is a competitor, a collaborator and a partner.”

This web of relationships has changed the character of the industry. “It is costlier than ever to be a jerk,” says Steven Kaplan, an expert on private equity who teaches at the University of Chicago. “If they behave badly in one deal, they will be treated differently in the next deal.”

The ties stretch far beyond lending. The fastest way for buyout firms to deploy their nearly $2tn in “dry powder,” or funds they have raised that have yet to be invested, is to buy companies directly from other private equity firms. A record 442 of such deals worth $62bn were struck last year, according to Refinitiv.

These deals can close in less than three months, say bankers, versus as long as nine months to acquire a public company. They can also be expedient: sellers sometimes look to quickly lock in gains and show strong returns as they raise their next fund, notes one private equity firm executive.


“A lot of times you have good companies that a sponsor owns, but they need to sell to show dollars realised for their fundraising,” says the executive.

There has also been a surge in so-called “GP-led secondary transactions,” where one private equity firm sells a large stake in an existing investment to another firm at a higher valuation.

One of the industry’s earliest major deals was H&F’s 2014 sale of a $750mn minority interest in Kronos, a seller of cloud-based time sheet services, to a group of buyers led by Blackstone, that were willing to take lower governance rights and leave H&F in control of the deal.

Five years later, H&F led a deal to acquire Ultimate Software for $11bn, bringing in Blackstone and GIC, its same partners on the Kronos stake sale. Blackstone’s debt arm co-led $900mn in financing for the riskiest piece of the deal’s $3.4bn total debt package, helping to get it over the line.

The two private equity firms then merged Ultimate Software with Kronos a year later, generating billions of dollars in gains, underscoring how close relationships can get deals done.

Can it last?
The first test of the private equity industry’s new co-operative structure was the coronavirus pandemic. Broad swaths of the global economy closed, threatening to create a wave of defaults for private lenders that had financed a flurry of takeovers.

What occurred instead was a mass forbearance as private equity borrowers and their lenders amended loans to give companies breathing room. To smooth the new and more lenient liquidity measures and show good faith, some borrowers added additional equity to the deals.

“The whole concept was we’re not going to foreclose,” says one borrower involved in numerous negotiations. “They’re in the business of ideally doing multiple deals with your portfolio companies. They know that if they act poorly, my job is to not show them future business.”

One such example was a company called European Wax Centre, an operator of hair removal salons that was acquired in 2018 by private equity firm General Atlantic with a $180mn loan from private lender Blue Owl. When the pandemic shuttered the company’s salons, Blue Owl voluntarily amended the loan to forestall a cash crunch and General Atlantic made an over $10mn cash infusion as a concession.

After the economy reopened, European Wax recovered and its debts were refinanced at par. Last year, the company went public, valuing General Atlantic’s stake at $639mn, several multiples of its original investment.

Young Soo Jang, a PhD student at the University of Chicago, has studied private lenders’ behaviour by examining over 200 deals that fell into distress during Covid.

He found private lenders were twice as likely as the broadly syndicated loan market to ask for borrowers to agree to inject new capital into deals, forestalling restructuring. Five per cent of distressed private deals led to bankruptcies, according to the research, half the rates of bank financed deals.

“A lot of the direct lenders put out a lot of capital . . . They were extremely nervous,” adds one executive involved in these deals. “Everyone benefited from the fact that there was such a sharp snap back in the economy.”

The global economy sidestepped a brewing financial crisis during the pandemic thanks to an unprecedented policy response.

But as financial markets enter another troubled moment amid the war in Ukraine and central bank tightening, the ties between firms will be tested again.

“This increased co-operation and cosiness is really a bull market phenomenon,” says Lerner, the Harvard professor, who expects falling markets will unearth new conflict as deals sour, pitting parties against each other.

However, the firms involved in the Zendesk financing insist these new relationships will not break.

“It is very hard to be a credible direct lender and a hostile investor,” says the head of one firm involved in the deal. Another adds: “We’re just trying to get our money back and get a return.”

>>> Stoxx 600 Pre-Market Indications

  • Glencore (8GC TH) +0.6%
  • Unilever (UNVB TH) +0.5%
  • Veolia (VVD TH) +0.2%
    • Saur Agrees to Buy MWS Europe From Veolia for ~EU190M
  • BMW (BMW TH) -0.8%
  • Continental (CON TH) -0.9%
  • HelloFresh (HFG TH) -1.1%
  • Rational (RAA TH) -1.1%
  • Essity (ESWB TH) -1.1%
  • Siemens Energy (ENR TH) -1.4%
  • Munich Re (MUV2 TH) -1.4%
    • Munich Re Profit Slumps as Investments Hit by Market Volatility
  • TUI (TUI1 TH) -1.5%
  • Ferrari (2FE TH) -1.5%
  • Avast (AV2 TH) -3.9%
    • Avast 1H Adjusted Ebitda $249.7M

>>> TradeGate Pre-Market Indications

DAX:
  • Munich Re (MUV2 TH) -1.2%
    • Munich Re Profit Slumps as Investments Hit by Market Volatility
MDAX:
  • Fraport (FRA TH) +2.9%
    • Fraport 1H Ebitda Beats Estimates
  • Bechtle (BC8 TH) +1%
SDAX:
  • Deutsche PBB (PBB TH) -0.4%
    • Deutsche PBB 1H Pretax Profit EU107M Vs. EU114M Y/y
  • About You (YOU TH) -2.5%
  • Adler Group (ADJ TH) -3.5%

WWD : Richemont Urges Shareholders toReject Bluebell’s Proposals atAGM

Richemont Urges Shareholders toReject Bluebell’s Proposals atAGM
Bluebell wants to install Francesco Trapani on the board torepresent holders of the publicly listed shares.

LONDON — The gloves are off at Compagnie Financière Richemont.
The parent of brands including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Panerai is urgingshareholders to vote against a proposal by the activist investor Bluebell Capital Partnersto install Francesco Trapani to the board as a representative of the “A” shareholders.
The corporate giant is proposing its own candidate instead — board member andindependent director Wendy Luhabe.
Richemont said in a brief statement Monday that it would put Bluebell’s requests to avote at the annual general meeting set for Sept. 7 in Geneva, but it’s clearly not happyabout them.
“After careful consideration, the board recommends to vote against the designation of
Johann Rupert
Bluebell's candidate as representative of the holders of 'A' shares, and against theelection of that person to the board,” Richemont said.
The board is also asking shareholders to vote against the various changes to Richemont’sarticles of incorporation proposed by Bluebell. Richemont said it would provide furtherinformation in its letter to shareholders before the AGM.
Bluebell declined to comment on Monday.
As reported, Bluebell wants to reshape Richemont in the medium term and is lobbyingfor changes to corporate governance, better board representation for minorityshareholders and a strategic focus on hard luxury.
Its initial request is for more board representation for the holders of Richemont’s “A”shares, which are publicly listed on the SIX Swiss Exchange.
Bluebell wants to install Trapani, a hard luxury expert, entrepreneur and seasonedactivist investor.
At Richemont, there are 522 million “A” shares, and 522 million “B” shares in issue. The“B” ones are not listed, but held by Compagnie Financière Rupert, which belongs toJohann Rupert, Richemont’s founder and chairman.
Rupert controls 10 percent of the company’s capital, and 51 percent of its voting rights.Although a management team runs Richemont, Rupert remains deeply involved in, andcommitted to, the business.
As reported, while some of Richemont's Board members own "A" stock, there is nospecifi c representative of "A" shareholders currently on the board.
According to Swiss law, each shareholder class is entitled to have at least onerepresentative on a board of directors.
Richemont's own articles of association say that holders of "A" shares and "B" shareseach have the right to appoint one representative to the board.
It is understood that, until now, no request has ever been made by a shareholder toexercise that right of the "A" share class to appoint a representative.
In addition to blocking Bluebell, Richemont’s proposal of Luhabe as the “A”representative dovetails with its commitment to new, and higher, environmental, social,corporate governance and diversity, equity and inclusion standards.
It also shows that Richemont is open tochange, and that it's listening, albeit partly, toactivist shareholders.
One luxury investor who declined to be named said while Bluebell’s wish list forRichemont “makes a ton of sense," Rupert might not want "Trapani — anothersilverback, male luxury CEO — on the board."
Luhabe was elected to the board in 2020 and serves as a non-executive director and amember of the board’s nominations committee.
She has a long relationship with Richemont, chairing Vendôme South Africa,Richemont’s subsidiary in the region, from 2001 to 2011.
Richemont has described her as a social entrepreneur and economic activist "withmultiple honors for her pioneering contribution to the economic empowerment ofwomen in South Africa.”
She is the founding chair of Women in Infrastructure Development and Energy, whichfocuses on the economic empowerment of women, and of Bridging the Gap, anorganization that equips black graduates with corporate skills.
She is also the founder of the Women Private Equity Fund, South Africa’s fi rst privateventure capital fund for women, and helped to start Women Investment PortfolioHoldings, which empowers women to become investors in the South African economy.
Luhabe also created the Wendy Luhabe Foundation and established a scholarship at theUniversity of Johannesburg.
In addition to the board nominations, Richemont is also proposing an ordinary dividendof 2.25 Swiss francs per “A” share and 0.225 Swiss francs per “B” share, and an additionalspecial dividend of 1.00 Swiss francs per “A” share and 0.10 Swiss francs per “B” share.
The board is also proposing the reelection of all its members for a further one-year term,with the exception of Ruggero Magnoni and Jan Rupert, who had already informed theboard that they would not seek reelection.

>>> What to look at today - 9th of August 2022

Stocks struggled to make headway in Asia on Tuesday and bonds rose, a pattern reflecting concerns about the outlook for economic growth as central banks hike interest rates to curb runaway inflation. MSCI Inc.’s Asia-Pacific equity index was little changed but off session lows, spurred by a climb in Hong Kong real-estate shares after the territory floated the possibility of reducing stamp duty on some home purchases. S&P 500 and Nasdaq 100 futures weathered a blow to sentiment from poor earnings at chipmaker Nvidia Corp. but the gains in the contracts were modest. Australian debt pushed higher and Treasuries held an advance. An inversion in the US yield curve highlights expectations that further aggressive Federal Reserve interest-rate hikes could spark a recession. The dollar was steady. Oil edged down toward $90 a barrel, gold slipped and Bitcoin fell from $24,000. A near-10% rebound in global stocks from bear-market lows appears to have paused as investors await US inflation data due Wednesday. The figures will shape views on how aggressively the Fed will have to raise borrowing costs and whether a shift to rate cuts later next year is a realistic possibility. US After Hours: GDRX +55.9%, LMND +13%, SWAV +8.6%, QLYS +7.4%, PUBM +7% higher on earnings; NVAX -32.5%, CARG -15.6%, DDD -13.8%, TREX -11.2%, UPST -9.8% lower on earnings; HEAR -34% falls on earnings an decision to remain independent

Nikkei -0,94% Hang Seng +0,42% CSI +0,17% Shanghai +0,20% Shenzen +0,06%

Eur$ 1,0195 CNH 6,7613 CNY 6,7564 JPY 134,92 GBP 1,2087 CHF 0,9551 RUB 61,9222 TRY 17,9564 WTI$ 90,56 Gold 1,785,78 -1,8% BTC 23,386 -0,8% ETH 1,777,25 -&,2%

S&P +0,20% Nasdaq +0,18% EuroStoxx -0,24% FTSE -0,17% Dax -0,33% SMI -0,28%

Macro :
- JPMorgan’s Kolanovic Says Time to Trim Stocks, Buy Commodities
- Citi Strategists Say Analysts Are Back at ‘Peak Bullishness’
- China Drills Show Preparation for Possible Invasion, Taiwan Says
- *BITCOIN TIED TO THE FED; SKEPTICAL OF SOFT LANDING: NOVOGRATZ

Keep an eye on :
- AED BB : Aedifica to Spend EU16m on Two Care Projects in Finland
- AIR FP : Airbus Books 401 Aircraft Orders, Delivers 46 Jetliners in July
- ALSN SW : ALSO Holding AG announces share buyback program
- AOX GY : Alstria Office 1H FFO EU59.5M Vs. EU58.5M Y/y
- AZE BB : Azelis 1H Revenue Beats Estimates
- CCL LN : Carnival Downgraded to B2 by Moody's
- CWC GY : Cewe Stiftung Maintains FY Ebit Forecast
- PBB GY : Deutsche PBB 1H Pretax Profit EU107M Vs. EU114M Y/y
- DUFN SW : Dufry 1H Sales Beats Estimates
- ENEL IM : Russia Halts Sale of Local Units of Enel, Fortum: Kommersant
- ENX FP : Euronext July Total Cash Market Transaction Value M/M -9%
- FORTUM FH : Russia Halts Sale of Local Units of Enel, Fortum: Kommersant
- FRA GY : Fraport 1H Ebitda Beats Estimates
- GALE SW : Galenica 1H Ebit Beats Estimates
- GMAB DC : Genmab Boosts FY Revenue Forecast
- HABA GY : Hamborner REIT Narrows FY Rental Income Forecast
- MONT BB : Montea Buys Four Sites in France/Netherlands for ~EU90M
- MUV2 GY : Munich Re 2Q Operating Profit Misses Estimates
- MUSTI FH : Musti Group 3Q Operating Profit Misses Estimates
- OXY US : Berkshire Hathaway Buys 6.68m Shares of Occidental Petroleum
- QQ/ LN : QinetiQ US Wins $45M Army Prototyping and Integration Contract
- RWAY IM : RAI Way May Buy EI Towers in Shares: Repubblica
- G24 GY : Scout24 SE 2Q Oper Ebitda Beats Estimates
- SRT GY : Sartorius to Buy Albumedix for About £415m
- SNAP US : Snap in Early Stages of Planning Layoffs: Verge
- SOFI US : SoftBank to Sell All or Some of Its SoFi Shares; SoFi Drops (-4% in After Hours)
- UNA NA : Ben & Jerry’s Has ‘No Power’ to Halt Israel Deal, Unilever Says
- VIE FP : Saur Agrees to Buy MWS Europe From Veolia for ~EU190M

>>> Europe : Brokers Upgrades & Downgrades - 9th of August 2022

>>> Up
* Edenred Raised to Buy at William O'Neil
* NNIT Raised to Buy at SEB Equities; PT 95 kroner

>>> Down
* Linde Cut to Reduce at Baader Helvea; PT $316.45
* Nvidia Cut to Hold at Craig-Hallum; PT $180
* PostNL Cut to Hold at Jefferies; PT 2.50 euros
* Zur Rose Cut to Equal-Weight at Barclays; PT 68 Swiss francs

>>> Initiation
* Viaplay Rated New Hold at Jefferies; PT 340 kronor

>>> Call
* Citi Strategists Say Analysts Are Back at ‘Peak Bullishness’
* Linde Cut to Reduce at Baader Helvea on High Industry Exposure
* Viaplay Initiated Hold as Jefferies Waits on Greater Visibility

Business Of Fashion : Sequoia Capital China Bets on Contemporary Norwegian Label

Sequoia Capital China Bets on Contemporary Norwegian Label Holzweiler
The venture firm has acquired a majority stake in the brand as it eyes global expansion, suggesting investors still see opportunity in well-placed fashion plays despite looming economic headwinds.

Contemporary Norwegian label Holzweiler has built a dedicated fan-base for its well-constructed basics with a Scandi-chic edge. Now, it’s eyeing global expansion with the backing of venture firm Sequoia Capital China.

The venture firm is taking a majority stake in the brand in a deal announced Monday. The financial terms were not disclosed, but the brand’s founders, siblings Susanne and Andreas Holzweiler, and creative director Maria Skappel Holzweiler (also Andreas’s wife) will retain a minority stake.

The investment comes at a challenging time for emerging fashion labels as soaring inflation and a looming recession raise concerns customers will pull back on spending. Typically, the already-crowded and competitive contemporary market suffers the most during economic downturns as shoppers fall back on higher-end luxury investment pieces or value-driven purchases from mass-market retailers, if they spend at all.

But over the last few years of upheaval, a handful of contemporary brands have shown resilience thanks to solid business models, strong customer relationships and savvy marketing and brand positioning that gave them cachet on sticky issues like sustainability and responsible production.

Perhaps the most successful example of this strategy is the Danish label Ganni, which was bought by L Catterton in 2017. The LVMH-backed venture firm is reportedly now exploring a sale that could value the company at up to $700 million.

“There is still disposable income to spend as long as … brands are meeting the needs of those consumers [with] good quality, timeless pieces,” said Fflur Roberts, global head of luxury goods at market research firm Euromonitor International.

Since it was founded in 2012, Holzweiler has leaned into its own version of this playbook. It launched with scarves, hero products that helped it carve out an early niche. It’s branched out with collaborations that racked up cultural cachet inside and outside the fashion world — from designing a hoodie for Sarah Andelman’s Parisian concept store Colette, to launching a fine-dining restaurant in Oslo.

The company is expecting consolidated turnover of around $50 million this year, up 60 percent from 2021. The brand has been profitable since day one, Andreas Holzweiler said.

With the help of the investment from Sequoia, and its new owner’s expertise in the Chinese market, the brand is aiming to surpass €100 million ($102 million) in sales. It has plans to expand its physical retail footprint, starting with a flagship store in Copenhagen, Denmark in October and its first London store in Spring 2023. Store openings in key US and Chinese cities will follow, with the brand also launching with Chinese online luxury seller Tmall next month.

The move comes after some six years of brand-building and three years of scaling up the business, which included hiring its first chief marketing officer in March this year.

“You get to certain points [of] growth, where you can take things organically and you can build a solid backbone for your brand,” said Andreas. “But I think it comes to a point where if you want to globalise the brand ... you both need more in-house knowledge, but also the scale and the knowledge [of an investor].”

Since early 2021, Sequoia Capital’s China arm has bolstered its fashion portfolio to include Parisian brand Ami and South Korean contemporary brand We11done, in both cases with a view to scale for global expansion. It also holds a minority stake in luxury e-commerce company Ssense and Chinese ultra-fast-fashion juggernaut Shein.

WWD : Is Meta Uncertainty Metastasizing?

Is Meta Uncertainty Metastasizing?
The tech giant's latest moves suggest it's scrambling to shore up its current business while it focuses on its future.

The latest string of moves from Meta suggests a tech giant scrambling to adjust a new reality.

It’s common for platforms to regularly update features, but less so for big players to make changes to features that affect key business lines and revenue. And yet, Meta appears to be actively engaged in reshaping its future and current commerce business.

If nothing else, the changes underscore how pivotal Instagram has become to the tech giant. The company expanded shopping features on Instagram, with new purchasing capabilities that allow users to buy products directly through chat, but narrowed commerce features on Facebook, which will be stripped of live shopping as of Oct. 1.

How much the moves will affect brands remains to be seen. But those effects will likely vary anyway, according to Jen Jones, chief marketing officer of CommerceTools, a software company for e-commerce that works with major brands and retailers such as Sephora, Ulta Beauty, H&M and others.

“The majority of our clients are either big retailers selling directly to customers or brands that are really focusing on a direct-to-consumer strategy,” she told WWD. “I think an announcement like this from Meta really isn’t going to impact them as much. [But its ad business] does, I think, tend to play with some of these smaller companies, brands and retailers.”

It’s also not clear what its choice to cut live shopping, at least on Facebook, will mean in the long run. The e-commerce trend is enormously popular in Asia, and it was forecasted to reach $35 billion in U.S. sales by 2024. And yet, even TikTok seemed to back off of it, reportedly scaling back plans in the U.S. and Europe last month. Now Meta is stepping back.

But the move may be less about the success of livestream shopping than the desire to propel Reels, the short video format on Facebook and Instagram that Meta has been touting as a potentially large revenue driver.

If it wants to narrow its video options and nudge the attention to Reels, it’s not necessarily a death knell for the format, either.

“If you think about Meta and TikTok, even, and the consumer behavior there, I think that’s a little different than maybe sitting on a livestream where you’re focused for a longer amount of time, like on YouTube,” Jones explained. She’s also seen great success on owned channels, like brands’ websites. For instance, she sees Sephora doing quite well with its own livestreams.

Such moves matter in the Meta universe, but perhaps not as much for its long-term vision, which is wholly focused on all things metaverse. In that domain, the company was particularly busy last week.

Meta broadened its NFT rollout on Instagram to more than 100 countries across Africa, the Asia-Pacific region, the Middle East and the Americas. It also revealed that it will add new support for wallets from Coinbase and Dapper Labs, owner of NBA Top Shot, along with the Flow blockchain.

A lynchpin for cryptocurrency transactions, Crypto wallets hold the private keys necessary to access the coins and, often, the NFTs its owner buys. In a minor but oddball footnote, chief executive officer Mark Zuckerberg also released one of his old Little League baseball cards as an NFT showing the little tech tycoon-to-be up to bat.

Quirky, yes. Noteworthy? Also yes. Because Meta may have set its course for the metaverse when it changed its name and mission last year, but it appears to be hitting the gas pedal on the whole affair now.

Anyone who’s surprised hasn’t been paying attention. Zuckerberg himself has often acknowledged that this next, “embodied” iteration of the internet may take as long as a decade to arrive. Others peg up to 20 years. And what’s become increasingly clear is that Meta can hardly afford to wait that long.

The social media-cum-metaverse giant made history earlier this year for the greatest loss in market value for a U.S. company, hemorrhaging more than $230 billion. It followed that up by reporting the first revenue loss in its history as a public company in the last quarter, driving shares down more than 50 percent.

Some investors and analysts still aren’t keen about its new metaverse goals, but that’s not the main reason. Heightened competition from TikTok and ongoing challenges from Apple’s privacy update, which thwarts ad-targeting, blends with market forces, changing user behaviors and other factors were, apparently, a killer combination. It all led to Meta taking on debt by launching its first bond sale in recent days.

Altogether, it looks like the business that advertising built is on shakier ground. That’s a problem, because it seemed that the company was depending on its social media platforms, with its advertising and related commerce efforts, to bring in the money and stability while it focuses on its larger and more costly ambitions within crypto, the metaverse and NFT initiatives. For now, that looks like anything but a certainty.