‘Sexy Lingerie Capitals’ Battle for Supremacy
Producing everything from the raciest underwear on Shein to comfy bras on European high streets, China’s intimate apparel industry is fragmenting into specialist hubs in improbable locations.
The factories that keep the world supplied with underwear are dotted around the globe, but those in one country continue to play an outsized role in this most intimate of industries. Not only is China the world’s largest exporter of underwear and lingerie, but it also hosts the largest trade show of its kind for the sector.
This year’s China International Brand Underwear Fair and China Intimate Apparel Culture Week (SIUF) finally kicked off in Shenzhen on August 10, after months of delays. The country’s dynamic zero-Covid policy shrunk foreign participation, but the three-day long event still featured hundreds of domestic suppliers and international brands. Despite travel restrictions, organisers reported over 89,000 visits.
Shenzhen was a fitting setting for the fair, as it is located in the heart of China’s largest lingerie manufacturing base. Thousands of factories in southern Guangdong province and the wider Pearl River Delta region produce everything from bras and panties to bathrobes for both international and domestic brands. The region has been China’s main hub for intimate apparel for decades, with factories in cities like Shantou responsible for the lion’s share of output. Another city in the region, Gurao, reportedly produced two billion bras annually in its heyday, giving it the nickname “bra town.”
But more recently China’s intimate apparel industry has been hit by waves of near-shoring by international brands and off-shoring by domestic producers, setting the scene for new specialist hubs to emerge across the country.
Erotic Lingerie and Novelty Underwear for the Masses
At the other end of the country from Guangdong, there is a small county in Jiangsu province transforming itself into a specialised base for lingerie manufacturing. Guanyun county was until recently an impoverished farming community known for producing rice and wheat. Now reporters flock to the region to cover lingerie fashion shows held in a community that the local government promotes as “China’s lingerie capital.”
Lei Congrui, 31, is at the forefront of Guanyun’s transformation. Lei’s father died when he was young, and his mother supported the family by running a children’s clothing shop. In 2007, he was a just teenager selling small consumer goods online in his hometown, when he got his start in the new trade. After noticing that Lei was selling condoms online, a buyer once asked if he sold sexy lingerie.
“I said yes without really knowing what it was, and then started sourcing from other manufacturers,” Lei said. “Demand picked up and we started manufacturing ourselves.” He then dropped out of college to focus on building the company.
From a small workshop manned by just seven relatives, Lei’s brand Midnight Charm has grown into a 400-person operation. Industrial sewing machines line the factory floor and plastic bags of notions hang from hooks above each machine. The mostly female employees in their 30s and 40s stitch together revealing chemises and sexy outfits.
“We didn’t know how to make lingerie at first,” admitted Lei. “We just looked at the samples and figured out how to recreate them on our own…At first the quality was really bad, but because lingerie was still a novelty for our Chinese online buyers, low prices were more important than quality.”
After seeing Lei’s success, more than 500 more small companies in Guanyun have come to employ 20,000 people to produce sexy lingerie, mostly for the local online market in small cottage industry workshops. The local government says these factories are producing more than $300 million worth of lingerie products annually and, according to a report by AFP, the county produces 70 percent of domestic Chinese demand for sexy lingerie.
Lei has expanded his customer base much further than others, counting buyers from China, Africa and Europe — but half of his production is for the American market, including for small Amazon sellers and China’s ultra fast fashion giant Shein. Now online retailers send him samples and his team reverse-engineers them.
“We haven’t been able to meet demands of bigger more established brands,” Lei said. “We are still a relatively small factory. Those bigger brands are making a wider range of underwear and lingerie, but we are focused on specialty sexy lingerie.”
Despite his humble demeanour, Lei has a factory that is now turning over three to five million pieces a year, bringing in millions of dollars in annual profits.
Lei’s ambition is to eventually build Midnight Charm into a respected intimate apparel brand — a Chinese Victoria’s Secret, he said — with a dedicated R&D design team.
Industry insiders say that Guanyun county’s transformation is emblematic of a trend in China’s lingerie industry as production bases diversify.
Manufacturing Base Fragments Further
Renaud Anjoran, CEO of Sofeast, a company providing auditing and quality assurance to international brands, started visiting lingerie manufacturing facilities in 2005. Lingerie production has been traditionally most dense in the southern Pearl River Delta, he said, because that is where the industry first set up base after moving to mainland China from Hong Kong in the 80s and 90s.
Today the region maintains a high concentration of mid- to high-end lingerie manufacturers and has developed into a strong base for lace, accessories and notions that supply the industry. It remains a centre of production for bras, he said. “It’s very manual work and you need people who are used to doing the manual operation of sewing the cups,” he said. “It is a relatively complicated operation. You cannot train people to do it in in a couple of weeks.”
Nevertheless, the industry has become more fragmented, he said, driven in part by rising labour costs over the past two decades. “Very often they go to an inland province like that because the owner of the factory is [originally] from that town [or there’s some kind of] connection,” he said. “It’s tempting for them to relocate completely or to open a second factory in a faraway [location] because they can [still] see the trends [but]…there’s more and more competition on pricing.”
Elaine Guo, design director of Passionworks, a specialty supplier of silk lingerie and pyjamas for the Chinese market, said that international brands will look to at least three different regions in China for manufacturing. Aside from the Pearl River Delta, she said, a manufacturing hub has developed in Zhejiang province just south of Shanghai where some factories are producing similar or higher quality than those in Guangdong province. Up north in Dalian, yet another hub has developed that mostly exports to Japan.
Guo produces upscale silk pieces for Chinese lingerie and underwear brands like Ubras, Maniform, and Neiwai. Her operations are in Shanghai, but she says the costs have risen there and workers are less willing to stay. “A lot of people left before the Covid lockdown. A lot of people went back to their hometowns,” she said.
Inland regions are also experiencing rising labour costs for manufacturers. “At first our workers earned 1000 yuan ($148) a month, but now they take home 6 to 7,000, and with overtime they can bring in over 10,000 ($1456),” said Midnight Charm’s Lei in Jiangsu province.
SIUF’s business director Chuck Ge says this is an industry-wide trend. “In recent years I do see many manufacturers shifting to other regions in inner China or ASEAN (Association of Southeast Asian Nations) countries, for the lower labour cost or cheaper land,” he said.
China accounts for more than 35 percent of the $10.1 billion export trade of global intimate apparel, according to 2020 data from MIT’s Observatory of Economic Complexity. Following China are Vietnam, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka, Germany and other countries in Asia and Europe, but none of them account for more than 10 percent of the trade. Exports from Italy, France and Austria, where much of the higher-end production takes place, are further down the league tables, accounting for less than 3 percent each.
But even as countries like Bangladesh and Vietnam reap the rewards in terms of production capacity, China is growing its design expertise. Many Chinese intimate apparel companies are relocating their headquarters and design departments from domestic regional production hubs to China’s mega-cities, said Guo.
Reliability Concerns Exacerbate Near-shoring Pressures
China’s future as a leading lingerie manufacturing hub is less certain than it was a few years ago.
In addition to concerns over exposure to alleged forced labour in supply chains in China’s Xinjiang region, the pandemic has impacted the international perception of the country’s manufacturing industry in ways that could prompt international brands to look elsewhere for options. Guo suggests that recent lockdowns have created disruptions and growing uncertainty about the reliability of Chinese supply chains.
While these and other factors may lead to a further exodus of lingerie manufacturing, Anjoran says there can be no complete exit from China.
“When you chase the lowest cost, there’s always somebody cheaper than you,” he said. “When it’s simple products, they went to Bangladesh or other places like this. But whenever the product involved bras, it has been much harder for them to leave China.”
Guo argues that the sheer number of factories producing lingerie and suppliers offering components as well as textiles and accessories makes China a good place to stay. The clustering of the industry over decades and the full supply chain of fabrics, notions and assembly is not so easily reproduced elsewhere.
That may be why some leaders in the mass market lingerie segment like Triumph and Marks & Spencer keep some production in China. Luxury lingerie brands often have a range that is produced in Asia and a range that is produced elsewhere, Anjoran said.
Some high-end players have been near-shoring production at China’s expense. Ten years ago, Reuters reported that Italian luxury lingerie brand La Perla was moving their underwear and nightgown production away from China to facilities in Turkey, Tunisia, and Portugal. La Perla’s website now says their main production facility is in Italy and they have facilities in Portugal and other EU member countries, while continuing to source some fabrics from Asia.
Hong Kong fashion lingerie maker Hop Lun, whose founder is Swedish, manufactures in Jiangxi and Guangdong provinces for their Chinese brands, but revealed in a Financial Times report earlier this year that a significant part of their production has moved to Indonesia and Bangladesh because of US-China trade tensions and China’s rising labour costs. The company is also reportedly looking to move production lines to Europe and North America to be closer to western clients like Marks & Spencer and H&M.
But there is another way that China could either regain lost ground or maintain its position as a leading lingerie exporter. Across the entire fashion industry, many Chinese producers have already pivoted from OEM (original equipment manufacturing) to ODM (original design manufacturing) before shifting further up the value chain to OBM (original brand manufacturing). But some local brands that didn’t start in a factory now have the potential to go global by leveraging Chinese lingerie expertise and supply chains.
Chinese lingerie brands like Neiwai, Ubras, and Neitangpai are using strong brand stories to appeal to a cosmopolitan consumer in China, suggests Daxue Consulting analyst Zoe Lu, and are aiming to take market share from incumbents like Aimer, Gujin and ManiForm. Some of these newer brands, including Neiwai, whose marketing campaigns focus on female empowerment and body positivity, have already started actively targeting the international market.
In an apparent bid to do so, the brand even partnered with an Italian textile company to source some of its fabrics, a reminder that while China retains some of its strength in lingerie production, the sector’s supply chain is increasingly global.