FT : The HS2 rail line: what has been cut and what will replace it?

The HS2 rail line: what has been cut and what will replace it?
The £36bn saved from cancelling the northern leg is meant to fund smaller transport schemes

Rishi Sunak’s decision to cancel the northern leg of the HS2 railway has ended the UK’s ambition to build a high speed line linking northern and southern cities along the spine of the country.

The prime minister said he has ended the “old consensus” which focused on linking up major cities “at the exclusion of everywhere else”.

His announcement represents a drastic scaling back of the original ambitions of the project, but Sunak said its economic case had been “massively weakened” by changes to business travel patterns following the pandemic.


Instead he promised to redeploy the £36bn saved from cancelling the project north of Birmingham to fund a string of smaller transport schemes, including roads, railways and buses. Around a quarter will go towards fixing potholes.

But transport executives and infrastructure experts questioned the length of time it would take to build Sunak’s new schemes — and whether they would be delivered at all.

“There’s an enormous gap between announcement and delivery, although smaller projects are easier to control,” said Tony Travers, professor at the London School of Economics.

What is left of HS2?
Trains will now travel on high speed lines only between London Euston and Birmingham. They will then slow down and continue to Manchester and beyond on conventional rail.

Sunak confirmed that the high-speed line would link up with Euston station in central London, allaying fears the southern end of the line could have terminated at Old Oak Common in west London.

HS2 Ltd, the government body running the scheme, was stripped of its responsibilities at Euston, with work on the project paused earlier this year after costs almost doubled to £4.8bn. Instead the project will be managed by a new Euston Development Zone, which is expected to include developers and other businesses and include the construction of thousands of new homes. Sunak said this would save £6.5bn, a figure that has been questioned by some experts.

Travers said HS2 had been a “tragic case study in how not to plan and deliver public infrastructure.”

“Cancelling the Birmingham to Manchester section still doesn’t help deliver cost control on the first phase of the project and they still need to resolve that,” he said.

Why was the Birmingham to Manchester line cancelled?
Spiralling costs have overshadowed the project. Even back in 2016, the price per mile of the London to Birmingham leg was five times equivalent schemes in Europe, according to the government. The first phase of HS2 is now expected to cost more than the original estimate for the entire railway.

Construction on the first leg began in 2020 but more than half of its allocated budget — £40bn to £45bn in 2019 prices — has already been spent even though it is just three years into construction and not due to open for at least six years. If inflation was taken into account that cost would jump to £57bn, according to FT calculations.


The escalating costs — and the lack of transparency around them — overshadowed the second phase of the project, which would have taken the total price to well over £100bn.

HS2’s backers argue that the line would have sped up journey times between some of the UK’s largest cities and freed up room for other trains on current tracks.

But a report by the House of Lords Economic Affairs select committee in 2015 said overcrowding on the west coast mainline was mostly confined to Friday evenings and weekends and could be resolved through fare changes and other smaller improvements.

The pandemic also reduced train travel, with passenger numbers still around 20 per cent lower than pre-Covid levels as people work from home. Business travel — which was expected to account for around half of the benefits — has been even slower to recover.

A Downing Street spokesperson said that as a result, the business case for the project had changed, now only providing 80p for each pound spent instead of £2.30.


Although more than £2bn has already been spent on the northern phase of the project, work remains at an early stage, with key design issues still to be resolved and most contracts yet to be awarded.

Stephen Glaister, professor of transport and infrastructure at Imperial College London, said that the estimated £2,300 cost in taxes per household for the entire HS2 railway over 20 years when it was costed at £100bn in 2020 meant the government has to “show solid evidence of good value for all that money”.

What will replace the northern leg of HS2?
The prime minister announced a slew of rail, tram and road upgrades, as well as bus improvements, under the banner Network North — although not all of them are in northern England.

But around £20bn of the HS2 savings will be spent on projects in the north, including a new £2bn station in Bradford, one of the country’s worst-connected cities.

A number of rail lines will be electrified, including between Leeds and Hull, a scheme northern leaders had originally pushed for as part of the Northern Powerhouse Rail high speed project, which was scaled back by the government last year.


The government also confirmed £12bn of existing money that was allocated in its 2021 integrated rail plan for better connections between Liverpool and Manchester will remain in place. Mayors in the two cities are expected to be given the option to rework existing plans for improved rail links.

Leeds, the biggest European city not to have a mass transit network, has been promised £2.5bn in future funding for that goal.

However, infrastructure experts said the new projects could take years to be delivered. “We can expect that Northern Powerhouse Rail, for example, will take at least five years to come out of the ashes of HS2 Phase 2B and to be approved before it’s ready for construction contracts to be let,” said Robbie Owen, partner at law firm Pinsent Masons.

Further south, the Midlands will receive just under £10bn of the HS2 savings, including £1.75bn towards the Midlands Rail Hub plan to upgrade rail links across the region. Some railway lines cut under the Beeching programme of the 1960s will also be reopened.

West Midlands mayor Andy Street, a vocal critic of the decision to axe the northern phase of HS2, is to receive a further £1bn for his transport budget.

A number of the rail projects had been previously mooted by government, including in 2021’s Integrated Rail Plan, but the funding had not been committed.

Away from rail, the government will cap bus fares at £2, originally introduced as a temporary post pandemic measure, until the end of 2024. It will also provide funding for bus infrastructure and increased services in some parts of the country.

Seventy road upgrades are also included in the plan including works to alleviate key pinch points and upgrade the A1, A5 and M6, as well as £8.3bn towards pothole repairs.

>>> US Close Dow +0,39% S&P +0,81% Nasdaq +1,35% Russell +0,11%

Closing Stock Market Summary
The major indices had a choppy session, ultimately finishing near their best levels of the day. The price action in an oversold Treasury market provided an excuse for an oversold stock market to rebound.

The 2-yr note yield settled at 5.09%, which is five basis points lower than yesterday's settlement, after hitting 5.17% overnight. The 10-yr note yield settled at 4.74%, down seven basis points from yesterday's settlement, after hitting 4.88% overnight.

Mega cap performance was integral to index level moves today. The Vanguard Mega Cap Growth ETF (MGK) closed up 1.5% while the market-cap weighted S&P 500 gained 0.8%. Apple (AAPL 173.66, +1.26, +0.7%) for its part logged a gain despite a downgrade to Sector Weight from Overweight at KeyBanc Capital Markets.

Semiconductor and growth stocks acted as additional support for the broader market. The PHLX Semiconductor Index rose 1.4% and the Russell 3000 Growth Index closed 1.3% higher.

Still, many other stocks came along for the bounce, evidenced by a 0.6% gain in the Invesco S&P 500 Equal Weight ETF (RSP). Nine of the 11 S&P 500 sectors registered gains. The consumer discretionary (+2.0%), communication services (+1.3%), and information technology (+1.3%) sectors, which all house mega-cap constituents, closed at the top of the leaderboard.

The energy sector (-3.4%), meanwhile, logged the biggest decline as oil prices dropped 5.2% to $84.70/bbl. That decline was attributed to concerns about weakening demand in a slower growth environment influenced by higher interest rates.

Separately, there was a cloud of political uncertainty hanging over the market after the House voted 216-210 in an unprecedented action to remove Kevin McCarthy as Speaker of the House. This is likely to complicate the negotiations to avoid another government shutdown after November 17 since business in the House will be stalled until a new Speaker is elected. Nonetheless, that cloud of uncertainty did not rain on today's rebound parade.

This morning's release of the ADP Employment Change Report showed weaker-than-expected job growth in September and the ISM Services PMI showed a modest deceleration in the pace of expansion versus August, but August factory orders came in much stronger than expected, rebounding smartly from a decline in July.

  • Nasdaq Composite: +26.5% YTD
  • S&P 500: +11.1% YTD
  • S&P Midcap 400: +0.4% YTD
  • Dow Jones Industrial Average: -0.1% YTD
  • Russell 2000: -1.8% YTD

Reviewing today's economic data:
  • The ADP Employment Change report indicated that private payrolls grew by 89,000 in September ( consensus 150,000) following a revised increase of 180,000 in August (from 177,000)
  • The weekly MBA Mortgage Applications Index fell 6.0% with purchase applications declining 6.0% and refinance applications plunging 7.0%
  • The ISM Services PMI decreased to 53.6% in September (consensus 53.7%) from 54.5% in August. The dividing line between expansion and contraction is 50.0%, so the September reading connotes an expansion in services sector activity, but at a slightly slower pace than August. September marked the ninth consecutive month of growth for the services sector.
    • The key takeaway from the report is that the largest sector of the U.S. economy remains in growth mode, paced by ongoing growth in new order activity and employment, and still defying any hard-landing views.
  • Factory orders surged 1.2% month-over-month in August (consensus 0.3%) following an unrevised 2.1% decline in July. Excluding transportation, factory orders increased 1.4% month-over-month on the heels of a 0.9% increase in July. Shipments of manufactured goods jumped 1.3% month-over-month after increasing 0.7% in July.
    • The key takeaway from the report is that factory orders, down in July, rebounded smartly in August, which is not indicative of an economy losing its growth momentum in a convincing way.
  • The weekly EIA crude oil inventories showed a draw of 2.22 million barrels following last week's draw of 2.17 million barrels.
Thursday's economic calendar includes:
  • 08:30 ET: Weekly Initial Claims (consensus 225,000; prior 204,000) and Continuing Claims (prior 1.670 mln); August Trade Balance (consensus -$65.1 bln; prior -$65.0 bln)
  • 10:30 ET: Weekly natural gas inventories (prior +90 bcf)

>>> US After Hours Summary: BB +4.9% to separate IoT and Cybersecurity units; CL

After Hours Summary: BB +4.9% to separate IoT and Cybersecurity units; CLX -2.2% lower on guidance as cybersecurity attack caused wide-scale disruptions; CMBM -20.8% on lowered guidance

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: None

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: ALXO +6.3% (stock offering), BB +4.9% (to separate IoT and Cybersecurity units into two independently-operated entities), PFMT +3% (awarded contract by NY state), ITT +2.5% (authorizes new $1 bln share repurchase program), KAMN +2% (wins US Army contract), ASLE +1.4% (updates status of AerAware certification by the FAA), KTOS +1.2% (stock offering by selling shareholders), RKLB +0.9% (opens its engine development center), GRTS +0.4% (presents data from 3 Phase 1 studies for samRNA vaccine candidates against COVID-19), RIOT +0.4% (announces Sept production update), CBOE +0.1% (reports Sept trading volume)

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: MXCT -21.7% (weak guidance), CMBM -20.8% (lowers Q3 revenue guidance), ACCD -7.6%, RGP -6.8%, CLX -2.2% (weak SepQ guidance; previously announced cybersecurity attack caused wide-scale disruptions)

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: YOU -3.5% (expands into financial services, launches its first reusable KYC solution), HRTG -2.1% (reports Q3 catastrophe losses), MRCY -1.5% (files mixed shelf securities offering), PGY -1.3% (files $500 mln mixed shelf securities offering), XOM -1.1% (details items that will impact Q3 results), BTBT -0.9% (announces monthly production update for Sept), NOC -0.5% (Voyager Space announces teaming agreement with NOC for Starlab space station), COST -0.2% (reports Sept comps), COP -0.2% (TTE finalizes sale to COP of its 50% interest in Surmont oil sands), SU -0.2% (TTE to sell to SU the entirety of the shares of TotalEnergies EP Canada), CMCSA -0.2% (Oaktree Capital bids €1.0 bln to back Italian soccer league TV channel according to Bloomberg Law)

TechCrunch : Defense startup Mach Industries closes $79M Series A at $335M valua

Defense startup Mach Industries closes $79M Series A at $335M valuation

Defense tech darling Mach Industries has closed a $79 million Series A led by Bedrock Capital in a deal that catapulted their post-money valuation to $335 million, multiple sources tell TechCrunch.

Mach Industries’ head of growth Koko Xu confirmed the numbers in an email, adding that the new investment came “from Bedrock and other top tier investors.”

Ethan Thornton, Mach CEO, later told TechCrunch that the funds are from investors including “Bedrock, DCVC, Marque and others to build defense hardware.”

The startup raised the new round scarcely four months after announcing its $5.7 million seed round led by Sequoia Capital – the firm’s first investment in defense tech. Mach received its first investments from Champion Hill Ventures and 1517 Fund.

Mach is developing a suite of hydrogen-powered platforms and munitions for the military, including unmanned aerial vehicles and hydrogen generation systems. Admittedly, the company is fairly tight-lipped about the exact tech – not unusual for a defense startup – but the big bet is that field-sourced hydrogen will give the military a critical advantage on the battlefield.

The idea posited by Mach – and many other startups working with the Pentagon – is nothing less than a paradigm shift for how the U.S. government has traditionally procured defense systems. Instead of spending billions of dollars on very exquisite systems that have long development cycles, startups want to offer cheaper systems at a higher volume, with iterative development programs that have become a Silicon Valley trademark.

This would not be Bedrock’s first foray into defense tech, a field that has attracted an increasing number of investors over the past eighteen months, as multi-unicorns like Anduril win massive government contracts and raise giant amounts of capital. Other defense investments from Bedrock including Anduril, Austin-based AI company Modern Intelligence, and defense systems startup Epirus.

WWD : Prada, Axiom Space Partner on Tech, Design for NASA Lunar Space Suits

Prada, Axiom Space Partner on Tech, Design for NASA Lunar Space Suits
In a groundbreaking partnership between an Italian luxury fashion house and a commercial space company, the space suits will be developed for the Artemis III mission planned for 2025.

MILAN — After the oceans, Prada is tackling outer space.

Prada is collaborating with Axiom Space, the architect of the world’s first commercial space station, on NASA’s lunar space suits for the Artemis III mission.

This is a groundbreaking partnership between an Italian luxury fashion house and a commercial space company.

As the first crewed lunar landing since Apollo 17 in December 1972, the Artemis mission, planned for 2025, will also be the first to place a woman on the moon.

Michael Suffredini, chief executive officer of Axiom Space, enthused about the partnership with Prada on the Axiom Extravehicular Mobility Unit, or AxEMU, space suit, touting the brand’s “technical expertise with raw materials, manufacturing techniques and innovative design concepts,” which “will bring advanced technologies instrumental in ensuring not only the comfort of astronauts on the lunar surface, but also the much needed human factors considerations absent from legacy space suits.”

In a joint interview with Suffredini, Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada Group’s marketing director, said the project is in a “preliminary phase,” explaining that Suffredini’s team had been in Italy for a week to gain an understanding of Prada’s “capabilities, not just about fabrics. We have huge know-how since the ‘90s on the America’s Cup [with the Luna Rossa sailing team], on the composite framework. Space suits are a combination of a lot of materials, metal composites and fabrics and being able to put together all those materials in a holistic approach is not simple. We need to understand the priorities, and make sure we deliver what is being requested by Axiom.”

“Some of my guys went to the Prada show [last month], this set a very high bar till next time some of us come over,” joked Suffredini.

Bertelli has put together a team, including engineers, who will work with Axiom throughout the design process.

“In general, space suits are one of the most challenging things, for a very small environment, and we have to create an environment where humans live in, provide oxygen and remove CO2,” explained Suffredini. “It’s not as simple as an air conditioner turned on, air has to flow a certain way in the suit, you have to provide air from the top to the bottom, you have to cool the subject and there’s a lot that goes on inside the suit — and then of course the outer portion and you have to hold pressure in the suit. The crew person has to be mobile, so there has to be a different pressure, in and out, which makes it like operating in a big balloon.”

Together, Prada and Axiom have to create a suit that is flexible from the inner layer to the outer one, mindful of how the life support system operates, he continued. “It’s a very critical part of human space flight and one of the most challenging areas, and so every part, including even when we talk of fabrics, every layer is critical, if it isn’t critical it wouldn’t be there. We don’t have it for fun. While we look forward to the space suit to look unique, relative to the past, it is very critical, perhaps even more on the lunar surface than in the lower orbit.”


Prada will develop both suits and the dedicated team will grow “according to the needs of Axiom,” said Bertelli. “Our first objective is to create something that is safe because we put humans inside and then to deliver on time and with the right quality that is expected of us. There is a lot of work to be done, it’s a long road ahead, we will work hard step by step.”

Axiom Space operates end-to-end missions to the International Space Station today while developing its successor, Axiom Station — a permanent commercial destination in low-Earth orbit that will sustain human growth off the planet.

The AxEMU space suit will provide astronauts with advanced capabilities for space exploration, while offering NASA commercially developed human systems needed to access, live and work on and around the moon.

Prada’s research in fabrics for Luna Rossa trickled down to the group’s fashion, and asked if he could envision this project having the same effect, Bertelli said he was more focused at this stage on thinking long-term. “Our biggest effort is making sure we under-promise and over-deliver. Our first goal is to meet Axiom’s expectations. With Mike’s experience and NASA there is so much we can learn from them.”

He observed that the experience of the America’s Cup contributed to creating Prada’s “credibility in technical materials, and we look at this as an opportunity to expand our technical credibility even more for the future 20 years. It proves that our choice in the ‘90s was right and this today will pay off in 20 years.”

Suffredini said the collaboration was based on the belief that Prada could deliver both in terms of design and manufacturing. “It’s one thing to decide what to design and create something cool on paper, but the question is, is the product safe and reliable, did you actually build what you thought you were building.” Everything is “key to keep the crew alive.” Choosing a partner is not a decision that could be taken lightly, continued Suffredini, “given the significance of the suit.”

“Usually in fashion, the clothes are maybe on top of people, maybe,” said Bertelli, with a chuckle, “and you don’t have technical constraints, while with technical functionality it’s much different. We’ve seen this with our products for the America’s Cup, most of the design choices are driven by technical needs. Our first objective and priority is to follow technical needs and design accordingly but there is always a bit of room for a holistic look and feel. Technical also drives design, while in fashion first there is creativity and then technical needs follow.”

The space suit designs will be developed for “a very broad range of human beings to make sure we can accommodate just about any astronaut that has been selected,” said Suffredini. “One of the challenges is to keep the crew member cool, it gets quite hot,” so it’s likely the space suit will be “a version of white,” with some small elements of color.

This is an example “of technical constraints over aesthetical choices,” noted Bertelli.
“We constantly look for teaming partners. What’s interesting about Prada is that it’s not just a fantastic, worldwide recognized design house, but their technological advances and composites in other areas make it a very attractive company,” said Suffredini. “For us figuring out that Prada is bigger than just a design house was a natural for the space suits and while of course we’d all like to have their efforts in the design and see what they will look like, really it’s much more about other things, tech advances, how you design and build composites. This all makes Prada a big asset for the project.”

WWD : Bernstein Downgrades Kering Based on ‘Classic’ Gucci Show, M&A, Management

Bernstein Downgrades Kering Based on ‘Classic’ Gucci Show, M&A, Management Changes
“We did not see a ‘big bang’ during Sabato De Sarno’s debut catwalk show,” wrote Bernstein’s Luca Solca, who has downgraded Kering's shares, and growth projections for Gucci.

LONDON — October is bringing more tricks than treats to the big luxury goods groups, two of which have seen their stocks downgraded by industry analysts.

On Wednesday, Bernstein’s Luca Solca downgraded Kering shares to a “market perform” rating from an “outperform” one based on Sabato De Sarno’s Gucci debut; recent M&A activity, and a flurry of management and creative changes at the French group.

Solca reduced Kering’s share price target to 492 euros from 582 euros, declaring there was “no big bang” in Milan. In short, Bernstein’s team didn’t see enough on Gucci’s spring 2024 catwalk to signal a “fast and material Gucci reacceleration.”

Bernstein also downgraded Gucci’s full-year 2024 growth expectations to 2 percent from 6 percent.

Kering shares were broadly flat at 423 euros in afternoon trading Wednesday.

Bernstein published its report 48 hours after RBC Capital Markets downgraded Compagnie Financèire Richemont’s share price target to 130 Swiss francs from 170 Swiss francs, based on new, and lower, earnings estimates and “moderating” luxury sector trends.

By contrast, both RBC Capital Markets and Bernstein kept their ratings of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton at “outperform.”

In Wednesday’s report, Solca wrote that Bernstein conducted a panel to discuss Gucci’s latest runway show, “and our speakers agreed that De Sarno’s shift to classic makes the collection potentially more commercial.”
Gucci RTW Spring 2024
GIOVANNI GIANNONI/WWD

“But it also pitches Gucci against more credible incumbents,” such as Prada, Chanel, Dior, The Row and Brunello Cucinelli, he wrote, opining that Gucci only thrives “when it’s over the top.”

Solca noted that the two retailers on Bernstein’s panel “are not going to buy more, and possibly less, than before,” and added that a “softer consumer demand environment in [fiscal 2024] could further exacerbate Gucci’s performance issues. Consumers cut their shopping lists in a slowdown, and Gucci is still in transition. The Kering CEO [François-Henri Pinault] said himself that it will take time for Gucci to find its new footing.”

Solca said senior management changes at Gucci, and at the helm of Kering, “can only add to the lead time” of a turnaround, and there is a real risk that Gucci’s sales growth moves into low-single-digit territory.

Kering’s recent mergers and acquisitions activity, he said, also adds to the crowded senior management agenda.

“The acquisition of Creed and the establishment of the Kering beauty platform seems ambitious. The acquisition of Valentino from Mayhoola adds a new aesthetic turnaround challenge,” he wrote.
Sarah Burton
PHOTO BY DAVID M. BENETT/DAVE BENETT/GETTY IMAGES FOR THE STANDARD

It has been a whirlwind year for Kering, which on Tuesday named Sean McGirr creative director of Alexander McQueen, succeeding Sarah Burton, its only female creative head, prompting criticism on social media about its lack of diversity at the group’s designer stable.

Kering had revealed on Sept. 11 that it was parting ways with Burton, who’d been with the brand for 26 years, but did not say why.

As reported, the luxury group has been looking to reshape itself as a dynamic player in an ever-more competitive space and seek new avenues of growth as sales momentum fades at its flagship brand Gucci, as well as at Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga.


Over the summer Kering snatched up Creed for a reported $3.8 billion and followed up the deal a few weeks later, agreeing to buy 30 percent of Valentino for 1.7 billion euros. It has an option to take full control of the Italian brand by 2028.

Kering has also been under pressure from activist investors to make a transformational acquisition that would put it on a more equal footing with rival LVMH and make it less reliant on Gucci, which accounted for 67 percent of the group’s operating profit last year.
Francesca Bellettini
COURTESY OF FRANCESCA BELLETTINI

Kering also had a major management reshuffle, granting wider powers to Saint Laurent chief executive officer Francesca Bellettini. Those changes came against the backdrop of Kering’s weak performance in the second quarter that saw Gucci miss market expectations.

Last month, Solca told WWD he was surprised that Kering would switch creative gears at McQueen at such a busy time.

“It is remarkable that Kering is opening yet another front with the change of creative directors at Alexander McQueen. This only adds to the fish to fry — which were already very abundant,” he said.

In Wednesday’s report, Solca said recent senior management changes and M&A moves at Kering have increased the “risk profile” of the group. “Most importantly, we did not see a ‘big bang’ during Sabato’s debut catwalk, which is the straw that broke the camel’s back.”

The report also outlines some of the main points raised by Bernstein’s panel about the Gucci spring 2024 show.

Solca said panelists agreed that De Sarno’s Gucci “definitely marks a welcome inflection relative to what we had seen with [his predecessor] Alessandro Michele. De Sarno has come to the catwalk with a coherent project, avoiding the trap of trying to please everyone with different things — unlike Riccardo Tisci had done at Burberry.”

The panel said Gucci’s shift to “bon chic, bon genre” fashion makes the collection more commercial, “but there doesn’t appear to be enough originality for a new Gucci ‘dream,’ and the catwalk show looks more like a pre-collection in its being sober and down to earth.”

Solca has packed the report with graphs, charts, photographs and detailed analysis of social-media reaction to Gucci’s show from China’s Little Red Book platform.

One chart shows a spike in Kering’s share price between 2016 and 2021, due to Michele’s “more is more” approach at Gucci, while a photo compilation sets out to prove that De Sarno should work harder on accessories.

“We do not see new hero bags from the show. The Jackie bag and the Bamboo bag have not seen much innovation,” the report stated.

It also pointed out that “softer” consumer demand could further exacerbate performance issues at Gucci.

“We have seen multiple times that consumers putting a foot on the brake [cuts] the number of brands on their shopping list, and [concentrates] their luxury goods budget on ‘must-have’ brands,” wrote Solca, arguing that the other Kering brands “don’t seem to have the ability to offset a continuing, subdued performance from Gucci.”

He also cast doubt on the speed with which Gucci can execute a turnaround, given all of the management changes.

“We would think that the departure of Marco Bizzarri — and of several senior executives below him — is at the very least going to increase the amount of time the Gucci revival will take. The new CEO and the new executives will have to find their feet before reaching full effectiveness.

“A sprint execution of the Gucci turnaround — like the one we had seen in 2016 — seems off the menu. In the absence of an explosive creative reinvention — for which we had potentially been waiting for — this element adds to balance the risk reward in Kering despite the very convenient backstop of a low valuation level, both in absolute terms and relative to other names in the sector,” Solca concluded.

WWD : Gucci’s G Chain Bra Goes Viral With Help From Kim Kardashian

Gucci’s G Chain Bra Goes Viral With Help From Kim Kardashian
Search interest for Gucci's G Chain Brad spiked after Kardashian modeled the piece on her Instagram account.

Gucci has secured its first viral moment of fall season with a little help from Kim Kardashian.

On Tuesday, the Skims’ founder posted a collection of selfies on her Instagram, captioning, “It’s all Gucci.” In the pictures, Kardashian can be seen wearing a Gucci Supreme pajama set and the Gucci G Chain bra, which was part of the brand’s fall 2023 runway show during Milan Fashion Week in February.

Since being shown to Kardashian’s 364 million followers on Instagram, the Gucci bra has seen a 2,150 percent increase in Google search interest within 24 hours. Her post has garnered more than 2.6 million likes so far.


A model walks the runway during the Gucci fall 2023 fashion show on Feb. 24.
GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES
The Gucci G Chain bra, crafted from silver-tone brass in a traditional triangular silhouette, features the Interlocking G logo, adorned with crystal embellishments. The piece is currently on sale for $4,200 at Browns Fashion.


In 2019, Gucci released a similar rhinestone bra designer by Alessandro Michele. The piece is now being auctioned online for $18,000.

Kardashian has strengthened her relationship with Gucci over the past year, sharing a few pictures on social media that showcase different Gucci outfits, including a slip cutout dress in January and a little black dress in May. She also looked to the brand for the Time 100 Gala in April.
Kim Kardashian at the 2023 Time 100 Gala.
GETTY IMAGES

Kardashian is not the only one in her family catching the Italian brand’s attention. On Saturday, Gucci Valigeria travel line released its new campaign featuring Bad Bunny and Kardashian’s sister Kendall Jenner. The model and singer, who have not publicly confirmed their relationship status, appeared close in the images, which were shot by Anthony Seklaoui in an airport.

WSJ : Prada to Help Design Spacesuits for NASA Moon Mission

Prada to Help Design Spacesuits for NASA Moon Mission
The 2025 mission would mark humanity’s return to the moon after more than 50 years

High fashion is going higher.

Prada, the maker of pricey leather bags and chunky boots, is helping make spacesuits astronauts will wear on the moon.

The suits will be worn on the National Aeronautics and Space Administration’s Artemis III mission, planned for 2025, the agency’s attempt at getting astronauts back on the moon for the first time in more than 50 years. Astronauts were last on the lunar surface in 1972, during NASA’s Apollo program.

The Artemis mission is expected to be the first time both a woman and a person of color land on the moon.

Prada, whose fashions are usually worn on runways and red carpets, not rockets, was picked to work on the suits by Axiom Space. The Houston-based company was awarded a NASA contract last year to replace and modernize the agency’s suits.

Axiom said it’s bringing on Prada because of its expertise in making and using materials. It said the Italian fashion house will help make the suits more comfortable.

Axiom unveiled an early prototype of the suits in March, saying it was designed with both women and men in mind.

Previous iterations of NASA suits were designed for the male body, with bulky fabrics, fewer joints and heavier equipment. The new suits will be easier to move in and fit most male and female bodies, NASA has said.

Prada was founded in 1913, when Mario Prada opened a store in Milan selling bags and travel trunks. The fashion house is part of the Prada Group, a luxury-goods company whose other brands include Miu Miu and British shoe maker Church’s.

Axiom and Prada did not say when they would unveil the new design. NASA didn’t immediately respond to a request for a comment.

The Information : Anthropic Makes OpenAI Look Cheap

Anthropic Makes OpenAI Look Cheap

How much should a well-regarded artificial intelligence startup be worth on paper?

That’s the question facing scores of sovereign wealth funds, mutual fund firms and other private equity investors looking at two marquee AI opportunities: OpenAI and Anthropic. OpenAI is in the middle of its second employee share sale in the last six months, and if it succeeds, the new share price could imply an enterprise valuation of at least $80 billion.

Anthropic, a rival whose founders previously worked at OpenAI, wants to raise $2 billion from Google and others at a valuation of at least $20 billion, Kate, Anissa and Stephanie reported yesterday. If that headline causes you deja vu, that’s because it came one week after Amazon invested $1.25 billion in the two-year-old developer of large language models as part of a product and sales partnership between the companies.

Our report contains new financial data and projections about Anthropic’s top line, so we can compare the two startups’ valuations and put them into perspective.

An $80 billion valuation on OpenAI implies a multiple of around 80 times its recent annualized revenue. Even if revenue has suddenly accelerated thanks to the launch of GPT-4 “vision” features, pushing down the valuation multiple to more like 60 times annualized revenue, that’s still a sky-high price. Publicly traded enterprise software stocks on average are trading around seven times trailing revenue, according to Koyfin.

There’s another wrinkle. The OpenAI shares being sold are effectively profit units, meaning shareholders can get a return without an acquisition of the company or an initial public offering, as long as OpenAI operates in the black. But the return on those units could be capped at 100 times the original investment amount, plus a 20% increase to that cap every year, starting in 2025, thanks to how OpenAI structured its latest Microsoft deal. That may not bother institutional investors as much as it does venture capitalists, who generally want home runs with 1,000%-plus returns or higher.

Even then, Anthropic’s hoped-for valuation makes OpenAI seem like a bargain. A $20 billion valuation represents a forward-looking multiple of 200 times annualized revenue—two to three times higher than OpenAI’s. And let’s not forget that Anthropic also has a funky structure: an independent, five-person group can hire and fire the company’s board. So investors may have limited power no matter how much stock they buy.

Corporate investors such as Google, Nvidia, Amazon, Microsoft and Salesforce seem happy to pay outrageous prices for stakes in hot AI developers like Anthropic, as we have continually noted. These investors don’t care about financial returns as much as they care about whether the startups can boost their sales or at least spend money to rent their cloud servers or use their chips. So don’t be surprised to see them participate in funding rounds with astronomical valuations, including Anthropic’s upcoming financing. And as sure as the sun sets in the west, OpenAI will use its employee share sale to raise equity financing (and maybe some debt) at an even higher price as it fulfills CEO Sam Altman’s promise to be “the most capital-intensive startup in Silicon Valley history.”

But corporate investors can only soak up so much of a startup’s cap table. Financial investors will have to fill the gap. Because not all of those investors are SoftBank’s Masayoshi Son, who seems to have never met an AI company he didn’t like, fund managers will face a tough choice.

LLMs made by OpenAI and Anthropic will either become the next operating system, perhaps elevating these companies to the trillion-dollar heights and overcoming competition from open-source AI and the likes of Google; anxious regulators and politicians; shortages of chips and compute-power sources; and the models’ natural limits. Or they won’t.

A safer choice for investors is to make the easiest AI bet of all: buying shares of Google and Microsoft.