WWD : French Luxury Houses Ready to Hit the Slopes With Ski Line Releases

French Luxury Houses Ready to Hit the Slopes With Ski Line Releases
Balenciaga hits the slopes for the first time, Balmain teams up with a luxury ski manufacturer while Chanel and Louis Vuitton continue their annual runs in style.

PARIS — French luxury brands are making ski capsules snow ahead of the opening of the winter season, blending their aesthetic flair and heritage designs with the technical demands of cold-weather dressing.

Balenciaga hits the slopes for the first time with a range that goes from technical ready-to-wear and accessories to equipment and gear for practicing skiing and snowboarding.

The lineup includes snow-worthy takes on the house’s hourglass and extra-easy puffer silhouettes, revisited in technical ripstop material, all with winter sports-appropriate details such as integrated snow skirts, ventilation systems and ski-pass holders. There also are waterproof fleece-lined jeans in stretch denim that could work on the trails as well as back in town.

Thermal layering options include hoodies, fluffy knits, fisherman-style wools and even a faux fur, while footwear includes the Alaska boot and a revisited 3XL Ski Sneaker that comes with a water-resistant interior film and removable spiked crampons.
The first winter sports line by Balenciaga goes from ready-to-wear to equipment and gear.
COURTESY OF BALENCIAGA

Gear-wise, in addition to snowboards and skis available in two sizes, there are also retractable hiking ski poles and a helmet designed with protection specialist Briko.

Chanel, on the other hand, went for the lithe silhouettes of figure skaters for this winter’s Coco Neige lineup imagined by artistic director Virginie Viard and foreshadowed by the recently released campaign featuring house ambassador Lily-Rose Depp.

In the mix is a jumpsuit in navy blue technical satin finished with jewelry buttons; a form-fitting jumpsuit in black and silver wool; plenty of reversible shearling and leather jackets, as well as lightweight sweaters, jackets and trousers made for layering.

Plenty of ski-savvy details have been included in the pieces, from a pocket inserted into a sleeve for ski passes to zips at the ankle to account for the appropriate footwear.

But there’s even more for après-ski moments.

Loungewear and denim made their debut this year, with reinterpretations of the house’s diamond quilting appearing as braided designs on cashmere pieces, and jeans with its double-C signature lasered onto their surface or dressed up in leather-laced chains.
Lily-Rose Depp wearing Coco Neige.
MIKAEL JANSSON/COURTESY OF CHANEL

At Dior, Maria Grazia Chiuri imagined an ode to getting away and the magic of the mountains in the DiorAlps line by reinventing the inspirations of her latest shows. Cue de rigeur puffer jackets form-fitting knits, and a tunic ideal for layering but also a silver ski suit or sleek white pants reinforced at the knee and zhuzhed up with navy and red piping. Ski goggles with the Dior Oblique monogram on the lenses and a charmingly vintage balaclava complete an outfit to race along the mountains while the best-selling Book Tote dressed in the Plan de Paris map print and après-ski boots will come in handy afterwards.

Options include a puffer with the monogram shape blown up to abstract proportions; knitted ribbed jumpsuits; a full-on monogram jumpsuit in blue with a red and white detailing; a black and white technical puffer, and plenty of chunky knits with a lightly retro feel.

Accessories too are dressed to impress on the slopes, from shearling embellished Capucines purses and its Keepall duffel bag revamped with technical zips to resist the elements to an alpine boot with a side pocket and a design nodding to the LV Trainer’s sole. There also are monogram helmets and ski masks for those looking to carve the slopes in style.

Balmain teamed up with Bomber for skis matching its winter range.
NELSON CASTILLO/COURTESY OF BALMAIN

New this season are a snowboard dressed in a gray glacier pattern and three sizes of skis handmade in France. Dressed in the house monogram design, these are finished with a striking red underside.
On-site performance is also the track taken by Balmain this season.

Founder Pierre Balmain, who hailed from France’s mountainous Savoy region, developed a lifelong love for mountain sports from his mother and often referenced this in his subsequent fashion collections. He even designed the uniforms for Olympic staff when France hosted the 1968 Winter Games in Grenoble.

As a nod to this, the house teamed with Italian luxury ski equipment manufacturer Bomber for a limited-edition pair of alpine skis. Available in three sizes and with a full wood-core construction, they dressed in the Balmain mini-monogram pattern first presented by Pierre Balmain in the 1980s — matching the designs of this year’s winter capsule.

WWD : Formula 1 Racer Max Verstappen’s Need for Speed

Formula 1 Racer Max Verstappen’s Need for Speed
The 26-year-old earned $64 million last year primarily in prize money, salaries and bonuses

True to the speed at which he leads his professional life, catching three-time Formula 1 world champion Max Verstappen for an interview takes patience.

In a Zoom interview while in Mexico City for Sunday’s Mexican Grand Prix, the 26-year-old spoke matter-of-factly about his track record and approach to life. It was understandable if he looked a little worse for wear — aside from gearing up for another weekend on the track, he was traveling with bodyguards reportedly due to social media threats. (Red Bull executives declined to comment about the reason on Friday.) Verstappen has also been on a tear lately, having earned $60 million in prize money, salaries and bonuses from May 2022 to 2023, and $4 million more from sponsors like Red Bull, Heineken and Viaplay. He will continue to compete on the Oracle Red Bull Racing team through 2028.

Wearing his team Red Bull jacket and baseball hat, the half-Dutch, Belgian-born racer competes under the Dutch flag. He now calls Monaco home, but the F1 circuit keeps him on the road. His career track may be genetically engrained. Verstappen’s father Jos is a former F1 driver and his mother Sophie Kumpen excelled in kart driving. At the age of 17, Max Verstappen became the youngest race winner in Formula 1 history.

Understandably, personal style was not something that Verstappen was interested in talking about, despite his Brazilian model partner Kelly Piquet being a familiar face on the designer scene. Equally at ease at Paris Fashion Week or on the F1 circuit, she knows of what she speaks. Her father Nelson was a three-time F1 World Champion and the father of her own daughter is F1 driver Daniil Kyvat. Verstappen does have a burgeoning signature apparel line, although his plan to aptly brand it “Max 1” was nixed by Nike earlier this year.

WWD: Why are you so competitive?

Max Verstappen: I don’t know. It’s how I grew up. It probably runs a bit in the family as well. From the time I was a little kid, it was something that I felt that I had inside me.

WWD: Given your father’s reputation and your mother’s accomplishments, was this your destiny? How young were you when you decided that this would seriously be your career?

M.V.: Racing, in general, I started when I was four [karting]. I was really enjoying it. [As an elementary school student, he won the Belgium Championship Mini (VAS) in 2005.] Of course, you cannot predict or plan to go all the way to Formula 1. Of course, that was the goal. But I always wanted to achieve something within racing.

WWD: Now that you have reached your 50th Grand Prix win, what are some of your long-term goals and ambitions?

M.V.: Of course, it doesn’t stop here. I want to win more races. You’re also very dependent on the whole paddock that you get every single year to try to win. But I am very confident in the team. It doesn’t stop here.

WWD: What is the peak racing speed that you reach?

M.V.: [Laughing.] Well, as fast as possible — faster than the average human being. It depends on the track, but the fastest that we hit is about 360 kph [or nearly 227 mph].

WWD: What about when you are just driving around Monaco or wherever you are?

M.V.: There it’s more about just following the rules of the road. I don’t really drive a lot at home. I just prefer to get from A to B. Monaco is quite small so [off-track driving] is really about just getting there. I race enough in my life. Once you are on a normal road it’s not about being the quickest or whatever.

WWD: What is a normal training day?

M.V.: In the morning, we would probably go for a 6 km run and after that, maybe a little spin on the bicycle as well. In the afternoon, there is a bit of weight training and neck training so that you cover basically everything that you need.

WWD: What might someone not necessarily understand about the degree of physical fitness that is needed?

M.V.: If I were to play soccer, I would be completely destroyed within those 90 minutes. It would be the same if they were to jump into a Formula 1 car, because your muscles are just not trained for it. With every sport, you have to train your specific muscles for it. The only way to do so, for me, is to drive the car.

WWD: Is the mental toughness more challenging than the physical part?

M.V.: Not for me, at least. I cannot comment for others, but not for me.

WWD: How do you explain your strategic thinking?

M.V.: It is quite straightforward. I don’t even need to think about it too much. It’s just intuition, instinct, experience. All these kinds of things come into play.

WWD: Who are two of your greatest rivals?

M.V.: Difficult to pick two. There are so many great drivers in the sport. There are also great drivers to come, right? I find it very hard to pick two to be honest.

WWD: Are there any you would like to name?

M.V.: No.

WWD: Has your father given you any advice or do you speak with him often about guidance?

M.V.: Yeah, it’s always been, “Just be yourself, be honest and stay with two feet on the ground.” That is always a very important lesson.

WWD: Regarding the booing last weekend after your F1 United States Grand Prix win in Austin [after Lewis Hamilton‘s and Charles’ Leclerc’s disqualifications], do you think that was envy?

M.V.: Of course, it’s not ideal. I am very focused on being there and just doing my job, trying to win the race and of course standing on the top step [of the winners’ podium]. To me, that’s all that matters. If someone can’t appreciate, that’s fine with me. That’s not what I am there for — trying to be liked by the people who don’t like me.

WWD: How involved are you with your apparel brand in terms of choosing products and developing things?

M.V.: It goes hand-in-hand in a way. What’s most important is to be yourself. That is very important in order to move forward outside of racing. Having people see the real me is the only way that they can relate to me and be a fan. That, of course, also creates your brand.

WWD: Does that mean you wear Christmas sweaters [the only nonathletic apparel offered on his e-commerce site]?

M.V.: [Chuckles.] Not necessarily.

WWD: Do you think too much is made about your affinity for the Dutch, having been born in Belgium?

M.V.: Honestly, I have never had any complaints or questions about that. I feel proud to be Dutch, but I also have a Belgian side in me. That is absolutely fine. It’s always good to be honest about that.

WWD: What do you like about living in Monaco?

M.V.: It’s safe. The environment is great, as well as for my training. Also, being [based] quite central in Europe is great for my traveling all over the world.

WWD: Do you have a few favorite countries?

M.V.: I like Japan, the U.S., the south of France, Spain. There are a lot of great countries that I have been to and ones that I still want to visit. Luckily, with F1, we’re driving in a lot of different countries. It’s good to see all these different countries on the calendar.

WWD: How do you and Kelly like to spend your time, when you are not working?

M.V.: At home, to be honest, [his expression relaxed just at the thought of it] because I am traveling so much. We do what any other normal human beings would do like normal people.

WWD: Kelly has worked with Louis Vuitton. Do you talk about business prospects together?

M.V.: Um, not so much. Of course, I keep up to date about what she’s doing or what she’s planning. It’s important to show interest in each other’s lives and work. But also, I don’t ask too many questions and just see the end result.

WWD: What would people be surprised to learn about her?

M.V.: Oh, I don’t know. I am not interested in other people learning anything about my girlfriend. What’s more important is what I have close to me as a family. That’s all that matters. I’m not interested in having other people learn how she is or whatever.

WWD: Do you have any hidden talents or skills?

M.V.: Hmm, no, I think all my talent went to racing. I’m not very good at any other sports.

WWD: Are you going to try to trademark “Max 1” again for a clothing brand [after Nike blocked an attempt earlier this year]?

Red Bull Publicist: We’re wrapping up now. Thank you.

Franc Tireur : Crimes et délires : l'édito de Raphaël Enthoven

Crimes et délires : l'édito de Raphaël Enthoven
Raphaël Enthoven

Il faudra inlassablement revenir sur la fake news du « bombardement » de l’hôpital Al-Ahli Arabi à Gaza, car elle est exemplaire de la façon dont l’information est déformée. D’un côté, la fable du Hamas, selon laquelle une armée régulière, experte en bombardements ciblés et qui largue ordinairement des bombes lourdes, a délibérément visé un hôpital, faisant « 500 morts » invisibles tout en laissant un cratère dérisoire. De l’autre, les images de quelques voitures incendiées, d’un bâtiment intact, d’une roquette qui explose à la même heure au même endroit et l’enregistrement d’une discussion entre deux terro­ristes qui accrédite la version de l’armée israélienne. Et pour tant… C’est la première version qui est la plus populaire. Comment se fait-il que le scénario le plus improbable soit celui qui recueille les faveurs de l’opinion ? Par quelle hallucination collective le monde entier a-t-il choisi de croire le Hamas, plutôt que l’évidence ? Trois facteurs y contribuent.

1. D’abord, le rôle des petits télégraphistes. Qui, dans le monde entier, reprennent mot à mot les communiqués d’une organisation tenue par eux pour un mouvement de « résistance ». En France, ces gens-là s’appellent Mathilde Panot, David Guiraud, Louis Boyard, Danièle Obono, ­Thomas Portes ou Jean-Luc Mélenchon (et donc, Antoine Léaument). Tous ont colporté sans honte le texte du Hamas, et tous ont maintenu leur post ­malgré les démentis. Et pour cause : ils valident les chiffres du Hamas comme ils auraient promu les chiffres des organisations syndicales après une manifestation. La vérité, à leurs yeux, n’est ni un but ni un ­obstacle, dans la conquête d’un ­électorat.

2. Dans l’adhésion délirante aux fables du Hamas, il y a aussi le rôle non négligeable des grands coupables, encore tout surpris d’avoir osé défendre Israël pendant vingt-quatre heures, et qui, rêvant de se refaire une vertu dans la dénonciation d’un crime de guerre, se sont rués sur l’hypothèse du bombardement comme un pénitent se jette sur le fouet. À leur décharge, il arrive à ceux-là ­d’effacer leur post. Mais eux aussi, on les trouve dans toutes les démocraties qu’ils affaiblissent en étant eux-mêmes si faibles. En France, ces gens-là s’appellent Olivier Faure.

3. Au-delà de ces haut-parleurs du pire, l’incroyable popularité de la version du Hamas tient au fait que, par la gravité du crime qu’elle dénonce, elle offre à tous ceux qui voudraient assassiner des juifs le cadeau d’une excuse. Et c’est toute la particularité du Hamas, ce nazisme dopé aux sciences sociales : son rêve est de tuer tous les juifs, mais il lui faut une justification. À la différence de ses ancêtres hitlériens qui assumaient une détestation métaphysique et injustifiée du Juif, le Hamas persiste à se présenter comme la victime de ceux qu’il rêve d’exterminer jusqu’au dernier. S’il décapite des enfants ou s’il éventre des femmes enceintes, c’est parce que Nétanyahou n’est pas gentil. S’il organise des pogroms et s’il massacre des civils, c’est à cause du « sionisme ». Les gens qui croient approfondir les choses en justifiant la barbarie du Hamas par le contexte géopolitique sont, à leur insu, les relais actifs d’une entreprise d’extermination qui n’a besoin, pour passer à l’acte, que d’un alibi.

The Information : Has Humane Created the Next iPhone—or the Next Google Glass?

Has Humane Created the Next iPhone—or the Next Google Glass?
A peek inside secretive startup Humane before the grand unveiling of its first product, the screenless, wearable Ai Pin.



The Ai Pin by Humane will feature a laser projector in place of a screen. Art by Clark Miller
In late September, a stakeholder in Humane received a humbled message from the startup. The Information had just broken the news that OpenAI CEO Sam Altman had been secretly meeting with renowned former Apple designer Jony Ive. The duo was dreaming up the “iPhone of artificial intelligence,” according to later reports, and had been speaking with SoftBank CEO Masayoshi Son about funding their plans.

Unfortunately for Humane, the idea sounded uncannily similar to the product it had been stealthily working on for years: a wearable assistant built in part on OpenAI technology. Even more embarrassing, Altman is a significant shareholder in Humane, according to filings the company has submitted to the Federal Communications Commission. The previously unreported message to stakeholders, which The Information viewed, explained that Humane was not involved in the Altman-Ive project in any way.

Altman later said his plans with Ive were in a “very nascent stage,” but the news of his straying attention couldn’t have come at a worse time for Humane. The five-year-old company had been planning to unveil the full details of its blockbuster first product, the Ai Pin, to coincide with the solar eclipse on October 14. Instead, the company quietly pushed the launch date to November 9.

To those closely watching the firm, Humane appears well positioned to secure a foothold in the budding market for AI devices. It has raised over $240 million from Microsoft, Tiger Global Management and Marc Benioff's Time Ventures. It was founded by two well-regarded former Apple executives, Imran Chaudhri and Bethany Bongiorno, who assembled an all-star team of several dozen former Apple designers, engineers and executives. And it has already mustered a buzzy marketing campaign that’s taken the Ai Pin to the TED Talks stage and the runways of Paris Fashion Week, where it adorned the lapel of supermodel Naomi Campbell.

The co-founders’ ambitious vision for a future of “ambient computing” aims to free humankind from our addiction to screens, allowing us to become more fully engaged with the physical world around us. If widely adopted, Humane’s technology could also disrupt the advertising-driven attention economy that has come to define the big tech ecosystem.

But as expectations for Humane and its Ai Pin mount, some close to the company have expressed nagging doubts about Humane’s debut product and its overall business strategy. In conversations with former employees, current investors and industry observers, questions arose about the company’s approach to user privacy and the form factor of the Ai Pin itself. In particular, some worry that the device’s front-facing camera will alienate segments of the public who fear being recorded against their will.

While several former company insiders praised married co-founders Chaudhri and Bongiorno for the consistency of their vision across the years, others suggested the pair’s commitment to their original idea for the product may have fostered blind spots around its viability. The Ai Pin is not a neglible purchase; it is expected to cost as much as $1000 and require a monthly data subscription, according to sources familiar with the company’s plans. (A company spokesperson declined to confirm specifics about the device's pricing or features, stating that “Humane will be sharing full product details when the device is unveiled on Nov 9.”)

Altman and Ive are not the only potential competitors nipping at its heels. On October 3, Rewind, an AI company focusing on personalized memory aids, abruptly announced the pre-order for its first device, the $59 microphone-equipped Rewind Pendant.

On October 17, Meta’s Smart Glasses hit the market, enabled with Meta’s AI voice assistant. Even an unfunded prototype for an AI assistant necklace called Tab, created by a 20-year-old founder, was enough to whip up excitement last month on X. And with the looming threat of slow-moving behemoths like Apple, Google and Amazon on the horizon, Humane’s head start in the AI device market will only take it so far.

All of these companies are betting that the next frontier in consumer AI lies in personalized agents—always-on chatbots like ChatGPT attuned to your wants and needs. Now the race is on to find the right form factor to integrate the technology seamlessly into people’s lives.

But the biggest challenges the companies will face are likely more existential than hardware related. Ultimately, they’ll have to answer the fundamental question: Is society ready for devices that know us as well as we know ourselves?

Humane was founded in 2018 by the husband-and-wife team of Chaudhri and Bongiorno, who met while working on the iPad at Apple. Chaudhri, a designer and inventor whose name appears on hundreds of patents, has developed some of the mobile features and interfaces that today feel like second nature, from the iPhone’s widget-filled dashboard to the swipe-to-unlock gesture. Bongiorno, a former director of software engineering at Apple, was often the person overseeing the rollout of such features.

Despite—or perhaps because of—their role in bringing iPhones, iPads and iPods into our everyday lives, the Humane leadership team has made it their mission to end the tyranny of screens and bring back face-to-face connection.

The alternative they’ll present at next month’s Ai Pin launch is a small, screenless device about the size of a saltine cracker, equipped with a camera, a microphone and speaker, a variety of sensors, and a laser projector. The device is meant to secure magnetically to a user’s clothing, allowing its camera, with a 180-degree field of view, to take in the world around the wearer.

A Qualcomm Snapdragon chip, typically found in larger devices, will deliver smartphone-level speed, connectivity, camera capabilities and security. According to FCC filings first noticed by journalist Janko Roettgers, the company will operate as a mobile virtual network operator, allowing the device to operate completely independent of a smartphone or computer.

The Ai Pin’s outputs seek to be elegantly minimalist. It can respond out loud to inquiries, as well as indicate notifications and different modes using haptics, vibrations and light patterns. But what really sets the hardware apart from wearable predecessors like the Apple Watch, Oura Ring or Fitbit is its software’s ability to converse with the user.

Building on OpenAI’s GPT-4, Humane has developed a proprietary LLM designed to incorporate maximal context into user requests. With a simple finger tap, users can activate an AI-powered voice assistant that the company believes will act as a personalized, hyperintelligent agent, answering any question imaginable.

In May, the company trademarked the phrase “Catch me up,” which prompts the assistant to deliver a digest of updates gathered from emails, text messages and calendar invites. The assistant can also draw on data collected about the user, along with environmental cues, to handle elaborate queries such as, “Does this lunch work with my diet?” or “Would this make a good gift for my niece?”

This is the aspect of Humane’s pitch that wowed many investors. “When we first looked at it in October last year, hardware was one thing, but we thought the multimodal input system that produced accurate answers with simple commands was its core strength,” said Samuel Kim, who led SK Network’s venture investment in the company. “This was before OpenAI and other AI players launched multimodal AI,” he added, referring to the ability to process multiple forms of data, such as images, speech and text, simultaneously.

“Many AI skills, features, what used to be discrete ‘apps,’ meld into a voice that handles it all, and few people will really want those walls restored,” said Michael Stewart, and investor at Microsoft venture fund M12. Microsoft particpated in Humane’s Series C round earlier this year.

Several people familiar with the company's roll-out strategy warned against getting too fixated on the inaugural product’s November 9 launch. They suggested that Humane is hoping to create a total paradigm shift in consumer computing. Partnerships with Volvo and LG suggest future potential to lean into the Internet of things, integrating Humane technology into home appliances and in-car systems.

“The vision is much larger than one device,” said one former employee. “It’s an entire platform.”

Humane’s founders have been outspoken in their desire to end our addiction to the smartphone. The devices they once helped build at Apple have since been linked to a worldwide loneliness epidemic, populationwide declines in physical and mental health, and shortened attention spans. Yet as any of the 310 million smartphone users in the U.S. can tell you, the conveniences they afford make it almost impossible to break the habit.

The trouble is, once that smartphone comes out of your pocket, the apps on there are incentivized to keep your eyeballs glued to them—in part so that you can view more ads. This is why, according to Dave Vondle, director of experimentation and publishing at global design company Ideo, “The thing that people want to get away from is deeper than just screens. The screen has become a symbol for divided attention.” By escaping the “attention economy,” devices “could be designed in ways that are better for everybody’s mental health.”

Of course, what those ads buy users is free or cheap access to entertainment and connectivity. But that might be changing, said Jenna Fizel, Ideo’s senior director of emerging technology: “There seems to be, culturally, this desire to pay for our electronics and our virtual experiences differently than we currently are.”

Because they have no screens on which to display ads, devices like Humane’s won’t have as much incentive to get users hooked on all-day usage. That raises questions, however, about whether the company will be able to drive revenue through hardware and subscription sales alone.

One former employee confirmed that Humane wanted to distance itself from the surveillance advertising model. “There’s a lot of good around it,” the person said, alluding to a business model that’s not ad supported or dependent on users staying “heads-down inside of a phone.” However, they added, “I question, personally, how much people actually want that. Because people want their TikTok, you know.”

Despite a concerted effort to distance itself from the originator of the smartphone, Apple, that corporation has loomed large in Humane’s company psyche.

In April, Chaudhri teased Humane’s Ai Pin in a TED Talk titled “The Disappearing Computer.” While onstage, he pulled up a photo of a toddler strapped into a mixed-reality headset and noise-canceling headphones. With a pained look, he said, “The future is not on your face.” The goggles on the child looked strikingly similar to the Vision Pro that Apple would announce two months later—a project Chaudhri likely would have been aware of, given that its development began in 2015.

“The strangest thing for me was how anti-Apple people were,” said one former Humane employee. “When the Vision Pro was unveiled, almost everyone on Slack was bashing it”— including ex-Apple employees who’d worked on the product, the person said.

The circumstances of Chaudhri’s departure from Apple might explain some of this. According to Tripp Mickle’s book “After Steve,” Chaudhri wrote an email to his design colleagues a month before he planned to officially resign from his role as director of design in 2017. In his note, he suggested that his river of inspiration had run dry. The note allegedly triggered insecurities among the remaining team members, who feared it implied that Apple itself was running low on inspiration. Ive and Apple’s design vice president, Alan Dye, fired Chaudhri on the spot, according to Mickle, before he was able to collect the Apple shares that were coming due as part of his compensation package. (Neither Ive, Dye, nor Chaudhri responded to a request for comment.)

Ive and Dye’s concerns may have been valid. Former Humane employees said many of the people who joined the startup from Apple were eager to return to a founder-led company. The passion that used to drive these employees’ work at Apple had died along with its founder, Steve Jobs, in 2011, according to former Humane workers.

Chaudhri and Bongiorno recruited some of Apple’s veteran talent to fill top roles at the new company, including Ken Kocienda, head of project engineering; Rubén Caballero, technical adviser; and Patrick Gates, chief technology officer. Those three alone had spent a combined 43 years at Apple. At one time or another, Humane has hired over 90 former Apple employees, an astonishing number for a company that as of March employed about 200 people in total.


In 2019, the partners at Kindred Ventures—who had just led Humane’s seed round—introduced the team at Humane to Sam Altman. OpenAI had released GPT-2 to developers earlier that year, and Altman was eager to visualize ways in which future consumer devices and operating systems could integrate LLMs.

Altman has praised the 2013 film “Her,” in which a lonely man played by Joaquin Phoenix falls in love with an AI operating system named Samantha, which he carries around in his breast pocket in the form of a small folding device. “The things ‘Her’ got right—like the whole interaction models of how people use AI—that was incredibly prophetic,” he told a crowd at the Dreamforce conference in September.

Altman co-led Humane’s Series A in 2020 with his friend and frequent co-investor Lachy Groom, tweeting that the company was building “the first genuinely new computing platform I've seen since OpenAI!” According to FCC filings, Altman has accumulated 14.93% equity in the company, making him its largest shareholder. Board directors include Groom, Valia Ventures’ Khaled Jalanbo and Kindred Ventures’ Steve Jang. Altman has demonstrated his ongoing support for the startup, participating in three investment rounds, including the Series C in March.

Investors said they were drawn to Humane’s very early vision of a hardware endpoint for generative AI tools—the kind of sci-fi hardware that tech’s major players are only now beginning to introduce to the public. Stewart recalled previewing Humane’s product in the fall of 2021 and finding its capabilities astonishing. “The team had working mockups of the device that still had some latency and word-error flaws,” he said. But the demo “clearly introduced—for the first time to my eyes and ears—an interactive and useful combination of computer vision and object classification with language synthesis using an earlier version of GPT.” He continued: “I felt it was the first time seeing a plausible use case of personal generative AI.”

By all appearances, Altman and Humane were fully aligned in their mission to create the definitive AI hardware. But then, along came Jony Ive. According to one source, when the news broke last month of Altman’s meetings with the designer, a riff on the “distracted boyfriend” meme circulated the Humane office, labeling Altman as the distracted boyfriend and Ive as the woman walking by. The neglected girlfriend was Humane.

As early as Altman’s talks with Ive may be, they constitute a significant threat to Humane and other device makers’ plans. SoftBank CEO Masayoshi Son, who has promised to make his business “the investment company for the AI revolution,” has reportedly promised $1 billion in funding for the project. (SoftBank Ventures also participated in Humane’s $100 million Series B.)

And Humane isn’t the only startup feeling blindsided. Altman also participated as an angel investor in two seed rounds for Dan Siroker’s company, Rewind, in 2020 and 2022. “I pitched him on this idea...that now everyone’s talking about, but I’ve been talking about for a while, for wearable hardware,” said Siroker. “Within three days he wired $1 million of his own money to do that. Very rarely do investors do that, and with such conviction so quickly.”

However, until this reporter informed him of Altman’s involvement with Humane, Siroker had no idea his star investor was also Humane’s. “Oh, interesting. I missed that,” he said when told of Altman’s investment in a rival. Then he joked, “Well, then I’ll be more careful with what I tell him!”

Humane’s desire to create a shift in personal computing has extended not only to the product they are building but also to the company’s work culture. Chaudhri and Bongiorno, said one former employee, “are absolutely delightful people. They treat everyone with kindness, respect and as their equal, which is rare given their position.” Several former employees also commented on the refreshing work-life balance at Humane compared with tech giants like Apple.

Humane did, however, borrow one significant element of Apple’s culture: its outward-facing secrecy. Until April’s TED Talk, the company had operated in near-blackout stealth. Even employees recruited for the company didn’t know what kind of product they’d be working on until their first day on the job. But once employees signed their rigorous nondisclosure agreements, Humane’s co-founders “tried to make Humane an open culture, which is a high contrast from Apple’s high internal secrecy culture,” according to a former employee.

While Humane is a “design-led organization,” another former employee noted, it is also “different from Apple in that engineering and design aren’t divided arbitrarily.” Pockets of employees had come from other companies like Fitbit, Nest, and Google, but Apple’s influence was undeniably dominant. The ex-Apple contingent, according to several former employees, borrowed processes from their former employer, creating a divide between those who’d worked at Apple and those who hadn’t.

“Moving as fast as they are, sometimes it’s good to have a bunch of people from the same place so at least they know how to execute together. But definitely it’s not without its friction,” said one former employee.

As much as former employees admired the founders’ unshakable nature, some felt there was a fine line between constancy and tunnel vision. At its worst, according to one former employee, the lack of “diversity of opinion and work style” made it difficult to dissent. “Cult followers tend to not question,” said another ex-employee. “I questioned [things], which was not a popular thing to do and was probably seen as me not believing in the product.”

One of the biggest topics debated internally was the question of privacy. Humane’s current privacy policy defines its data usage permissions quite liberally. The policy states that “third-party partners” may “collect information about your online activities”; that the company will share data “as may be required by applicable laws and regulations or requested by any judicial process or governmental agency”; and that it will collect data “to provide you with content and offers tailored to your interests.”

Though the company has remained tight-lipped about product details in the lead-up to its November launch, it insisted that it will avoid privacy problems by being clear and transparent with users about what kind of information it is asking for and why. “The first point of discussion with any feature was how to gain and keep user trust, to keep them informed,” said a former employee. A spokesperson for Humane echoed these sentiments: “Privacy is at the core of Humane's values. Since day zero we have aimed to build a product that is more transparent about its behaviors than the devices people use today.”
Much of this focus apparently came from CTO Gates, who led development of iCloud, FaceTime and iMessage while at Apple, and who was deeply impacted by the experience of processing subpoena requests at the tech giant.

Unlike systems like Alexa that are always passively listening for their “wake word,” the Ai Pin only activates with a press of the finger. To alleviate concerns about the intrusive nature of a front-facing camera, the device also includes a privacy indicator called the Trust Light.

“The Trust Light indicates when its input, optical or audio sensors are active, ensuring full transparency and data security,” said the company spokesperson. “The Ai Pin privacy chip also protects it from being exploited, which means if it’s ever physically tampered with, it will shut down and require service from Humane to restore operation.”

The company has yet to offer a detailed description of the Ai Pin’s encryption standards, but finding trustworthy solutions to privacy and data-gathering questions could be what makes or breaks the company.

Tech history is littered with the remains of wearable devices that failed to catch on, from the infamous Google Glass to Jawbone’s Bluetooth earpiece to Narrative Clip’s life-logging camera. Hardware presents a notorious challenge for new startups, thanks to its capital-intensive research and development process, the difficulty of manufacturing at scale and the risks associated with trying to shift consumer behavior.

Competition in the space also promises to be fierce—Humane is just one of several companies taking a stab at the AI wearable concept. While Meta has enabled its Smart Glasses with a Meta AI voice assistant, the company seems to be focusing its marketing more on the product’s livestreaming and content-sharing capabilities. Like the Ai Pin, Meta’s product will display a pulsing light while recording. To ease privacy concerns, the company promises that “recordings and text transcripts are processed to respond to your request but not stored.” The product retails at $299.

The AI-powered Rewind Pendant, though a far cheaper product at $59, is perhaps a more apt comparison. The Pendant also runs on GPT-4 and will rely on an “always listening” model. The device will, however, require verbal permission at the beginning of every conversation with a new person. (The system uses voice recognition to give ongoing permission to frequent speakers.) Given those permissions, the Pendant’s goal is to record and transcribe everything its wearer says or hears, allowing them to easily organize and search their previous conversations.

Founder and CEO Siroker, who has struggled with hearing loss, said the always-listening device aims “to do for memory what a hearing aid did for my hearing, what glasses do commonly for vision.” Unlike his competitors, he is fiercely opposed to including a camera in the product. The Rewind’s privacy solution is to store the data gathered locally on the device rather than uploading that information to the cloud. The company has also made a bold promise on its website to “never sell your data or do advertising.”

While Humane has not publicly revealed the exact pricing on its Ai Pin, the company seems to have chosen to market it as a luxury product. Naomi Campbell was selected to be the first person spotted publicly with an Ai Pin, at Paris Fashion Week. According to the presentation at Coperni’s spring-summer 2024 fashion show, the device will come in a variety of casings, including matte black, white and silver, and black and gold. With the monthly subscription and the premium price tag, it’s unlikely the Ai Pin will target the mass market right off the bat.
The public caught a first glimpse of the Ai Pin on model Naomi Campbell's lapel at Paris Fashion Week in September. Photo by Victor Lochon/Getty Images.

Of course, the trade-off for butler-level personalization is substantial data collection and sharing with third parties. “There’s certain value-adds that you cannot do without an external network or connecting to the cloud,” explained one former Humane employee, referring to the kinds of personalized recommendation services the Ai Pin can provide. “The key is convincing people of the value of that, so that they can make the choice to opt in.”

Humane is currently valued at $850 million, and it has no plans to fundraise again soon, according to a source familiar with the company’s financial situation. But some former employees questioned whether Humane will be able to buy itself enough time to bring its full vision to life.

A series of patents filed between 2018 and 2023 offer glimpses of what might lie in Humane’s future. While the first model is only capable of projecting simple laser displays, such as app icons and buttons, upon a user’s hand, the company’s patents leave space for a projector capable of displaying photos and videos. Another patent, filed by Chaudhri and Bongiorno, is devoted entirely to tracking fertility using body temperature and user input data.

Other patents theorize that the device could track a user’s biometric data (such as heart rate, body temperature and perspiration levels) to “estimate an emotional state of the user” and guess how significant the scene they’re witnessing is to them. Using this information, the device could decide independently when to activate its camera and microphone. One patent imagines that the Ai Pin will leave a parent free to engage in their child’s birthday party, knowing that their device will capture key memories at the right moments all on its own.

Several former employees raised concerns about whether a first-mover startup like Humane can fend off tech giants like Apple, Google and Amazon—who may have been caught off guard by the generative AI revolution but are now playing catch-up with a full arsenal of resources.

“Humane’s saving grace is that Siri is garbage,” said one former employee. “But will it be garbage forever? In my opinion, an Apple Watch with an AI-powered Siri would bring down Humane’s value proposition significantly.”

This month, the Apple Watch 9 rolled out a new feature that allows users to interact with the device using hand gestures, not unlike Humane’s functionality. Analysts also recently reported that Apple could begin rolling out generative AI features as part of its iOS 18 operating system in 2024.

Amazon, too, is charging full-speed ahead on AI development, as CEO Andy Jassey recently made clear to The Information. The company has promised to integrate generative AI into Alexa via a custom-built LLM by early next year, for a more personalized and conversational experience.

With the big incumbents closing in, anticipation for the Humane’s November 9 launch event has included its share of nerves. “It is of course difficult to iterate hardware at the speed of how AI is unfolding now, so the actual product intro is a moment of high risk,” acknowledged M12 investor Stewart.

Yet even former employees who expressed frustrations about Humane’s strategy largely seemed to be rooting for the scrappy startup. Especially given Chaudhri and Bongiorno’s expertise in designing and managing major hardware features, Humane’s fans are counting on the visionary co-founders having a road map that can withstand a few detours.

As one former employee put it, “They’re not betting the farm on one thing.”

CrunchBase : The Week’s 10 Biggest Funding Rounds: Anthropic Rules With $500M Ro

The Week’s 10 Biggest Funding Rounds: Anthropic Rules With $500M Round; Aiolos Bio Nabs Large Raise

After a slow week last week — where the top raise was only $57 million — this week saw a nice pickup thanks again to AI. Four companies raised nine-figure rounds and there were several other big rounds just under that. Of course, Anthropic’s round late in the week was the top raise, but biotech took three of the top five spots.

1. Anthropic, $500M, artificial intelligence: Just last month, San Francisco-based company Anthropic — a ChatGPT rival with its AI assistant Claude — inked a deal with Amazon for the e-commerce and cloud titan to invest up to $4 billion in the AI startup. But why stop there when there are more billions of dollars to be had? The WSJ reported late Friday that previous investor Google agreed to invest up to $2 billion in the OpenAI competitor. The deal includes $500 million upfront and an additional $1.5 billion more over time, per the report. The new investment is just the latest in what has become a fundraising spree for Anthropic this year. In February, it was reported that Google had invested between $300 million and $400 million in the startup. In May, the company raised a $450 million Series C led by Spark Capital. In August, Anthropic raised a $100 million round from SK Telecom. The Amazon deal followed late last month.

2. Aiolos Bio, $245M, biotech: Investors have always backed startups looking to take on asthma and other respiratory ailments. That continues with this week’s $245 million Series A for San Francisco- and London-based Aiolos Bio. Atlas Venture, Bain Capital Life Sciences, Forbion Capital Partners and Sofinnova Investments led the massive round. The newly launched company plans to use the fresh cash for phase 2 clinical trials of its lead drug candidate, AIO-001, designed for patients with moderate to severe asthma. More than 20 startups have been funded in the past several quarters and have raised close to $1.8 billion total, per Crunchbase data. The company that has received the most funding on the list is Waltham, Massachusetts-based Upstream Bio, which has raised more than $400 million to date.

3. (tied) Island, $100M, cybersecurity: Venture funding to cybersecurity startups is down 30% year to year, but this week saw a handful of good-sized rounds going to U.S.-based security firms. None were bigger than Dallas, Texas-based cybersecurity startup Island’s $100 million Series C led by Prysm Capital and valuing it at $1.5 billion. Island offers an enterprise browser that the company says enhances both security and productivity of workers, giving security teams control of what is often referred to as the “last mile” — how end-users interact with work and web applications. The enterprise browser developer raised a $115 million Series B at a $1.3 billion valuation last year led by Insight Partners. Founded in 2020, the company has now raised $385 million, per Crunchbase.

3. (tied) Pony.ai, $100M, autonomous vehicles: It may not have been a great week for the autonomous driving sector in general, as Cruise’s driverless taxi service in San Francisco was suspended. However, it was a good week for Fremont, California-based Pony.ai, which announced a $100 million investment from the Neom Investment Fund. The new deal is a joint venture to develop and deploy autonomous vehicles in Neom and other parts of the Middle East/North Africa region. Founded in 2016, the company has raised $1.3 billion, per Crunchbase.

5. Triveni Bio, $92M, biotech: Yet another biotech makes it high on the list. Waltham, Massachusetts-based Triveni Bio closed a $92 million series A financing co-led by Atlas Venture and Cormorant Asset Management. The startup is developing treatments for atopic dermatitis, asthma and other inflammation and immunology disorders. This is the company’s first outside raise, per Crunchbase.

6. Rampart Bioscience, $85M, biotech: Next-generation biologics developer Rampart Biosciences locked up an $85 million Series A led by Forbion Capital Partners. The company has developed a proprietary DNA-based medicines platform — called HALO — which is designed to produce highly potent and redosable therapies. The company’s current lead program is for the treatment of hypophosphatasia, an often fatal genetic disease that prevents bone mineralization. Founded in 2019, the company has raised $125 million, per Crunchbase.

7. Adlumin, $70M, cybersecurity: Washington, D.C.-based Adlumin, a managed detection and response startup, raised a $70 million Series B led by SYN Ventures. Founded in 2016, the company has raised nearly $129 million, per Crunchbase.

8. MangoBoost, $55M, IT infrastructure: Seattle-based data processing unit developer MangoBoost has raised a $55 million Series A co-led by IMM Investment and Shinhan Venture Investment. It was reported the new round gave the startup around a $300 million valuation. Founded in 2022, the company has raised nearly $66 million, per Crunchbase data.

8. (tied) AgentSync, $50M, insurance: Denver-based insurance infrastructure startup AgentSync raised an additional $50 million co-led by existing investors Craft Ventures and Valor Ventures. Founded in 2018, AgentSync has raised $161 million, per the company.

8. (tied) Censys, $50M, cybersecurity: Ann Arbor, Michigan-based threat hunting and exposure management startup Censys raised $75 million in a mix of equity and debt. The $50 million equity portion of the round was led by Decibel Partners, GV, Greylock and Intel Capital. The $25 million in debt funding was led by SVB Capital. Founded in 2017, the company has raised $128 million, per Crunchbase.

Big global deals
No round was bigger than Anthropic’s raise, but another across the pond was close.

  • London-based property and real estate firm Canary Wharf Group locked up a venture round worth approximately $486 million.

Barrons : ON Semiconductor Got Caught in the Chip Stock Selloff. Why It’s Time t

ON Semiconductor Got Caught in the Chip Stock Selloff. Why It’s Time to Buy.

Chip stocks have gotten crushed recently—and shares of ON Semiconductor are no exception. It’s cheap now, and could pop if it beats earnings expectations on Monday.

ON stock (ticker: ON) is down about 25% to a recent $81.16 from its record high hit this summer amid tech-sector weakness and concerns about restrictions on exporting to China. The decline was compounded by a selloff in the chip sector on Wednesday caused by

Texas Instruments, which missed sales forecasts when it reported earnings after Tuesday’s close and said it saw weak demand from industrial customers. That caused all semi stocks to fall—iShares Semiconductor ETF
SOXX declined 4%—and ON, which sells to some of those same customers, dropped 4.6%, closing at its lowest level in five months.

With the stock down so much in a short time, though, much of those concerns are likely reflected in ON’s shares. And with the company set to report earnings on Monday, it will have a chance to show that concerns about China, industrials, and other businesses are holding up just fine.

“Longer term, ON is on a much better road map in terms of the demand outlook,” says Mizuho analyst Vijay Rakseh. “No reason why it shouldn’t be a buy.”

The short-term is the problem right now and earnings could be the solution. Analysts project sales of $2.15 billion in the third quarter and earnings of about $1.34 a share. Both would be slightly lower than during the same period one year ago, almost entirely because of a decline in consumer-related chip sales. The company, though, said on its second-quarter earnings call that its forward guidance, which analysts use to configure their estimates, was conservative because of the economic picture.

ON, though, has a track record of beating earnings estimates, topping forecasts in 17 of the last 20 quarters, according to FactSet, and has grown sales at about 11% annually in the past four years. That’s why “we remain buyers ahead of ON’s print on 10/30 and reiterate our overweight rating and $130 price target,” writes Wells Fargo analyst Gary Mobley.

The China issue, meanwhile, isn’t as damaging to ON as it is to others. Chips meant for electric vehicles and many consumer electronics, which comprise a significant portion of ON’s sales, were kept out of the restrictions. “ON is not impacted by the ban,” says Deutsche Bank analyst Ross Seymour.

Nor is the company as exposed to industrials quite the way Texas Instruments is. ON gets almost half its revenue from the auto industry, which needs chips for software-based technologies. These products are higher priced, and the company says it expects annual sales to grow in the high teens in these segments. It’s a big reason why analysts project total revenue growth of about 12% annually from the start of this year through 2026, when sales could hit $11.7 billion. These chips are more profitable, too, and analysts expect gross margins to rise to over 50% by 2026, which could power close to 16% annual bottom-line growth through that year.

Combine that with stock buybacks and EPS would grow almost 18% a year to $8.48 by 2026. The company plans to use about half of its cash flow for repurchases, which is achievable, given that it will likely slow down its increases of long-term investments such as new equipment.

The growth—and any evidence of it on its upcoming earnings—should drive the cheap stock higher. It trades at just under 15 times EPS estimates for the coming 12 months, below its peak for the year of just over 20 times. It trades at less than the S&P 500 times, and it’s expected to grow EPS faster than the index.

“ON is relatively cheap,” says John McGinn, analyst at Laffer Tengler Investments, which is now considering buying shares.

We recommend doing the same.

FT : What’s next for Italy’s illustrious Brunello wine?

What’s next for Italy’s illustrious Brunello wine?
A visit to Tuscany reveals the tussle between history and innovation


A long history and an unparalleled reputation are not necessarily assets for new owners. In 2017, when it became clear that the private French group EPI had acquired Il Greppo, Montalcino’s most revered estate, the close-knit Italian wine establishment held its breath.

Along with Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino is Italy’s most famous wine. Ferruccio Biondi Santi of Il Greppo is seen as its late-19th-century founder. His descendants continued the tradition of making grapes from his carefully selected Sangiovese vines. What would the French group, owner of Piper-Heidsieck and Charles Heidsieck champagnes, do with this Tuscan treasure?

When Giampaolo Bertolini was made CEO of the estate by EPI in 2019, he was fully aware that the spotlight was on him. He has continued to insist that any changes have been minuscule and entirely focused on quality, although the purchase of a new six-hectare vineyard in 2019 (albeit with the same soil type and elevation as Il Greppo) raised eyebrows.

When I visited Il Greppo in June, it was not the vines but the winery that caught my attention. I had just spent the morning at a brand-new Montalcino estate, Giodo, owned by Carlo Ferrini and his daughter Bianca, and I couldn’t help contrasting the ease with which they could operate with the constraints at Il Greppo.

For a start, the Biondi-Santi winery is undeniably cramped. Applications to extend it have been thwarted because it is on the site of a chapel and burial ground. The new team has had to buy a separate building to store the older vintages for which the producer is so famous.

The hand of history is evident everywhere, not least in the corner of the old winery where the desk of Ferruccio’s grandson Franco remains untouched, along with his jacket and deerstalker. Franco, in charge from 1971 until his death in 2012, famously resisted the 1990s fashion for beefing up Brunello with French grapes and more ripeness. He continued to make Brunellos that need years in the bottle and then hours, perhaps days, in the glass to reveal themselves as delicate, exceptionally long-lived expressions of the Tuscan Sangiovese grape.

The winery is basically a back extension of the Biondi Santi family’s 16th-century villa, untouched in case Franco’s 94-year-old widow wants to use it. An ancient, dusty Citroën SM sits in the garage, sinking into the weed-strewn gravel as its tyres deflate.

Compare and contrast that with the Ferrinis’ spanking new, custom-built premises on the Giodo estate east of Sant’Angelo in Colle. (They managed to buy in 2000, just before land prices in the Brunello di Montalcino zone soared.)

The spacious, beautiful and sustainably designed modern winery is carved into the hillside. It is gravity-fed, rather than using mechanised pumps to move the wine around and decorated in indigo, the colours of Florence’s football team Fiorentina. It is surrounded by freshly landscaped gardens designed to attract bees to its local flora. The flat roof, with its views of the nearby countryside, is covered with solidified lava imported from Etna, where the Ferrinis also make wine. (Maybe hauling this from Sicily to Tuscany wasn’t all that sustainable?)

Ferrini is feted as one of Italy’s most famous oenology consultants. During the course of his 45 vintages, he had time to work out the ideal design for a new winery and, as a result, says that winemaking in these premises, ready for the 2020 vintage, is “banalissimo”, meaning extremely straightforward. He has been reducing his consultancy client roster to a mere 30 in order to concentrate on this personal venture.

The Ferrinis make two wines here, Giodo Brunello and La Quinta (their “baby Brunello”), another 100 per cent Sangiovese but from their younger vines. They have six hectares of vines, all of which they planted, whose age currently varies between five and 20 years old. (One of Ferrini’s first jobs, when he was working for the Chianti Classico professional association, was to identify the best clones of Sangiovese.) The Ferrinis are free to make La Quinta as they please because it is sold simply as a Tuscan red, so they age it half in wood and half in the fashionable clay pots that the wine world now rather inaccurately calls amphora. It is delicious.

Production of a wine as historic as Brunello di Montalcino, on the other hand, is tightly circumscribed. The minimum cask-ageing period has successively been reduced but is still quite a long 24 months. I wondered whether this requirement was appropriate for the relatively delicate Sangiovese grape in lighter vintages. “We don’t question it,” Ferrini replied, shrugging. “We have three goals: elegance, elegance and elegance.” Giodo Brunello sells in Italy for about €130, while La Quinta seems to me a relative bargain at not much more than €30.

Biondi-Santi’s straight Brunello Annata (non-Riserva) sells for more than Giodo’s, and the famous Riserva bottlings can cost thousands for old vintages. History is expensive.

Bertolini and his team are engaged on a parcel-by-parcel analysis of the Il Greppo estate, aided by the ubiquitous Chilean terroir expert Pedro Parra, with a view to refining vine-growing and winemaking still further. Like so many wine estates, especially those growing Sangiovese, they are plagued by the vine trunk disease esca and are adopting Marco Simonit’s pruning techniques in an effort to minimise its predations.

This year’s exceptionally wet spring and early summer in Tuscany have exacerbated problems in the vineyard with almost jungle-like growth and inconvenient mud underfoot. Ferrini has adopted the technique of folding new shoots on to wires rather than trimming them, which he claims involves less “trauma” and discourages the vine from growing yet more shoots. Both establishments are suffering from the current shortage of vineyard labour, an especially acute problem in Montalcino, which is far from any big city.

We toured Il Greppo’s vines under umbrellas and saw the vine nursery that the new regime has been developing on what was Franco Biondi Santi’s son Jacopo’s tennis court. Bertolini’s research suggests that the famous clone of Sangiovese isolated by Ferruccio and now known as BBS 11 (Brunello Biondi-Santi from row 11 in the vineyard) is well suited only to certain parcels of the estate’s 33 hectares of vines, of which 26 are old enough to produce wine.

I was given a tasting of wine from six different parcels over the past three vintages, which certainly demonstrated huge differences between them. But the new regime says it has no intention of following the current fashion in Montalcino to release single-vineyard bottlings. It probably would be crazy to do such an anti-Ferruccio thing.

FT Lex : Electric vehicles: insurers balk at battery fires and write-offs

Electric vehicles: insurers balk at battery fires and write-offs
Higher insurance prices make EVs less attractive to consumers

Tesla owners must be choking on their kale smoothies. Auto insurers have rapidly boosted prices for electric vehicle cover in the past year, much more than for fossil fuel cars. Indeed, John Lewis has suspended sales of its EV policies by request of French underwriter Covéa as it reassesses the cost of repairs.

Average electric car insurance costs rose 72 per cent in the year to September, compared with 29 per cent for petrol and diesel models, according to Confused.com. The price comparison site notes that premiums for Tesla Model 3s, the most quoted EV on the site, rose more than two-thirds in the past two years. In fact, Aviva withdrew insurance policies for some Tesla models earlier this year before reinstating cover a few months later.

EV claims are typically 25 per cent higher than combustion equivalents and take 14 per cent longer for repairs, according to research from Thatcham.

Blame high replacement costs. Spare parts are difficult to source, as are specialised technicians. It does not help that EVs are relatively new propositions, so insurers have insufficient data history on their maintenance.


Batteries cause problems of their own. These are expensive pieces of kit, worth a significant part of the overall vehicle cost, about half. That can be more for models with longer ranges and greater power. They are also susceptible to minor damage.

That can cause safety concerns as even small dings to battery packs can destabilise cells, potentially causing fires and even explosions. A combination of high costs and volatile outcomes means many EVs are simply being written off for damage that traditional vehicles would survive.

EVs are on the cusp of breaking even with traditional internal combustion engines, as cheaper running costs offset the higher upfront cost of the vehicle. As higher insurance makes EVs less attractive, adoption rates will adjust accordingly.

WSJ : The World’s Biggest Carmaker Made a Huge Bet on Tech. Things Went Wrong Fa

The World’s Biggest Carmaker Made a Huge Bet on Tech. Things Went Wrong Fast.
Toyota needed software expertise, but making a startup mentality mesh with an 86-year-old giant proved challenging. Now it’s trying a new way.

TOKYO—Toyota TM 0.70%increase; green up pointing triangle sells more cars each year than any other company, and it had similarly big dreams when it created its own in-house technology startup in 2021. It picked an American tech whiz to run it and envisioned building software for its cars that would become a standard for the whole industry.

So great were the startup’s ambitions that one of its projects was building an entire new city in the foothills of Mount Fuji where it could test self-driving cars, robots and hydrogen for power production.

Then-Chief Executive Akio Toyoda said the new unit would help Toyota navigate a “once-in-a-century period of profound change” in which cars become electric, internet-connected, autonomous and heavily reliant on software.

Toyoda said the company would be called Woven Planet, using the English words, a reference to Toyota’s origin as a manufacturer of automatic looms in the 1920s. He took a 5% stake in the venture, personally investing $34 million to show his commitment.

Now, the dreams of Woven Planet have been curtailed. While the company maintains that its ultimate vision remains in place, Toyota’s full release of software that would enable drivers to upgrade their cars wirelessly has been pushed back and the new city has yet to open. After three years of slower-than-expected progress and software that proved too ambitious to deliver on time, the American tech whiz has left, joking about the hair he has lost along the way.

The software unit’s early missteps, described by current and former executives, offer a cautionary tale for leaders of traditional companies who know they need a new kind of tech expertise but struggle to meld it with old aptitudes and habits. The Woven unit started with far-reaching ambitions that ultimately didn’t match Toyota’s desire for concrete software features ready to be put in cars fairly quickly. Woven struggled to connect with the changing goals of its parent, which is trying to reinvent itself while building 10 million vehicles a year.

The result was deadlines that kept getting moved forward and back—at one point, as far out as 2027 for the full rollout of the software. Today, Toyota has installed veterans of its auto-making group and brought Woven closer to the rest of the company. With its new regime and structure, Toyota and Woven say the unit’s plans are now back on track, with an early version of the software promised by 2025.

Toyota is a cornerstone of the economy in Japan, where it directly and indirectly employs millions of workers. For more than a half-century, it has set the standard for global carmakers with manufacturing principles that emphasize efficiency, waste reduction and continual improvement.

The company’s culture, built around methodical production timelines and tight control over budgets, shuns flair. Most of the top executives, including current CEO Koji Sato, are Japanese men who have spent their entire adult lives at Toyota building a career and avoiding mistakes. The company uniform isn’t a statement like a hoodie or black turtleneck but an actual uniform: a Toyota factory jacket that Sato is known to wear at internal meetings.

Toyota isn’t the only carmaker to stumble over software. General Motors halted its self-driving car operations this week due to safety concerns from regulators, after saying it was betting the company on such technologies.

Volkswagen, the world’s second-biggest automaker, spent billions and recruited an army of engineers for its own software project but ultimately got bogged down. The stumble led to model delays and contributed to the ouster of former CEO Herbert Diess.

VW and Toyota have lost ground to industry newcomers in building vehicles that resemble computers on wheels. Tesla, China’s BYD and others use software extensively to control vehicle functions, meaning that everything from battery range to autonomous-driving features can be improved via over-the-air updates, like apps on a phone.

At an internal meeting in 2020, Toyoda encouraged employees of the soon-to-start unit to dream big. He said he had struggled to encourage innovation within Toyota because it was a large organization in which decisions were often made based on precedent.

“In this uncharted era, not everything can be considered using such logical mechanisms,” Toyoda said, according to a transcript of the meeting. At the new company, he said, “I believe we can do great things. I believe we can change the world.”

Woven Planet began using high salaries to attract top foreign software engineers and acquired a string of startups, including the self-driving unit of U.S. ride-hailing company Lyft in April 2021.

For its Silicon Valley-style office, with Segway-like personal transporters and plants to promote relaxation, Toyota took space in a central Tokyo high-rise building. It was 180 miles from headquarters in Toyota City, where the company has been known to use less air conditioning and shut down elevators to cut costs.

To run Woven Planet, Toyoda picked James Kuffner, a jeans-and-T-shirt-clad roboticist who had been with the carmaker since 2016, after serving as part of the team that created Google’s self-driving car. Kuffner, now 52, managed Woven Planet’s more than 2,000 employees and was also given the informal side job of mentoring Toyoda’s son, Daisuke, 35, who took an executive role at the company. Kuffner made the equivalent of nearly $9 million in the year ended March 2023—some $2 million more than Toyoda, his boss.

Among the unit’s futuristic projects was a multibillion-dollar, hydrogen-powered city at the base of Mount Fuji, called Woven City, where thousands of people would live and test out self-driving cars and robot-equipped smart homes.

Another project was to create industry-leading software for Toyota’s cars.

Toyota named the concept Arene, a kind of operating system for cars that was envisioned as making it possible for drivers to wirelessly download a wide array of upgrades, just like Tesla. Arene-powered vehicles would connect to a cloud network, gathering and sharing data among millions of vehicles, smart homes and city infrastructure. Developers outside of Toyota would be able to use it to design their own applications and services for cars, and Arene would be open for use by other automakers as well, in the manner of Android, the mobile operating system that runs on many brands of smartphone.

Arene is named after a class of hydrocarbon molecules that are hexagonal, the same shape as Woven’s logo.

It was an immense vision, and difficult to pin to concrete car-launch schedules. The task of building software was also made more difficult because the company wanted it to work on many types of vehicles, including EVs as well as the hybrid, gasoline and hydrogen-powered cars Toyota remains committed to producing. Toyota said this week that EVs aren’t everything when it comes to reducing carbon emissions.

Even within Toyota and Woven Planet, many found the vision hard to understand.

Around six months ago, at an all-staff meeting at Woven, an employee’s three-word query—“What is Arene?”—was voted to the top of the list of questions posed to company management. There was a brief pause before the CEO, Kuffner, said he would answer.

Kuffner spoke at length about his original dream for Arene: saving lives with its automated safety functions and going beyond simply controlling the driving functions of a car. People who attended the meeting said they recall wondering why much of the answer was given in the past tense.

At the time, “What is Arene?” was the very question being debated by management at Woven Planet and Toyota. Development of the platform was taking longer than Toyota had expected. At one point, the goal was to put out a full-fledged version of the platform in 2025, but groups planning Toyota’s next-generation car lineup began to expect its delivery to be pushed back to 2027.

At a product-development meeting last year, then-CEO Toyoda erupted after hearing from Woven Planet management that many of the software updates Toyota was aiming to release in 2025 wouldn’t be completed in time, according to people who know about the meeting.

Over the past year, Woven Planet began to shift its focus toward developing software that could be delivered soon. That meant designing software specifically with Toyota vehicles in mind, and bringing in leaders with automotive experience. For its initial rollout, Arene was re-envisioned to focus more on the in-car experience, with features that let drivers modify their cars to make revving sounds like a sports car or even drive as if they had a manual transmission.

John Absmeier, the unit’s chief technology officer, who was brought in last year after years working in both the automotive and tech industries, said the ultimate vision for Arene, including making it an industry standard, remained the same. “What has changed over the past year is that it won’t be in one big bang,” he said. “It has to be step by step.”

Changes at Woven hastened in January, when Toyoda decided to hand the reins of the automaker to Sato, a longtime engineer. Sato’s job as Toyota’s new CEO was to speed up the automaker’s slow push into electric vehicles.

Days after assuming his new role, Sato pledged to release 10 new EV models by 2026. He wanted Arene’s full rollout to be moved up to coincide with the release of those models.

Sato pushed Woven Planet to shift its focus toward making software that could be delivered soon.

Woven Planet was renamed “Woven by Toyota” to incorporate the Toyota brand. Longtime Toyota executives such as former Chief Financial Officer Kenta Kon and Executive Fellow Koji Kobayashi joined the software unit’s board.

Bonuses for the year ended in March of 2023 were slashed due to missed targets and timelines, employees at Woven by Toyota say. Former CEO Toyoda transferred his stake in the company to Toyota, making Woven by Toyota a fully owned subsidiary. Toyota said it proposed to buy Toyoda’s shares of Woven for about $670,000 more than he originally paid for them, based on a third-party valuation.

In an internal publication, the company said Toyoda gave up his shares because of concern over conflict of interest if he was simultaneously chairman of Toyota and a shareholder in a firm that develops products for it. “My feelings toward Woven by Toyota, which I consider like my own child, have not changed,” it quoted Toyoda as saying.

In October, Kuffner gave up his job after 2½ years in the role to Hajime Kumabe, who came from Denso, Toyota’s top auto-parts supplier. Kon, the former Toyota CFO, has assumed the informal role as Daisuke Toyoda’s mentor, people inside Woven said.

Kuffner is now a senior fellow at Toyota, working on digital-skill development and education within the company in addition to software development.

Toyota says Arene will debut in some vehicles in 2025, with a full-scale rollout planned for 2026. The software will initially be designed for Toyota vehicles only.

At an auto show in Tokyo earlier this week, Toyota demonstrated features of Arene, including one that enables a driver to point a finger at surrounding locations while driving and receive information on them. That and other advanced features would be ready in 2026 or potentially later, people working on the technology at Woven said.

“Learning from failure, Toyota now has clearly defined what it needs to do—what it needs to prioritize—and it has a clear-cut product plan aimed at 2026,” said Takaki Nakanishi, an automotive-industry analyst and author of a recent book detailing the changes in Toyota’s EV and software strategies.

“The question is whether Toyota has found what will ultimately be a successful model in the long run,” Nakanishi said. “The age of Kuffner is over and what started out as a company with a California venture spirit now has a president from Denso—it’s like a pure Japanese company.”

At Woven by Toyota, some employees say they are having trouble adjusting to the new marching orders. Innovative software isn’t something that can be ordered and delivered on a strict deadline like a brake pad or a tailpipe, they say. Others say they have more confidence in their ability to get projects to market now that Toyota has stepped in.

Woven’s chief operating officer, Sinead Kaiya, a longtime software-industry executive and one of the few women in the executive ranks, recently left the company. A few months ago, employees at Woven started a union to respond to what some call unease about the company’s direction, among other issues.

Absmeier, Woven’s CTO, said he believes the unit maintains the right elements of startup culture, while now “being in lockstep and full alignment with Toyota.”

Toyota, like the industry in general, “has stumbled over time to try to change,” Absmeier said. He said the company has the foundation and road map for its software and “now it’s execution and bringing it to scale.”


Under Daisuke Toyoda’s supervision, construction of the first area of Toyota’s Woven City is due for completion next year, and Woven is currently recruiting potential residents.

In late September, Woven held a farewell party for Kuffner at its headquarters in Tokyo. Employees gathered near the company’s sprawling canteen area and executives including Absmeier, Kon and Daisuke Toyoda gave remarks thanking Kuffner for his work.

Woven’s new CEO, Kumabe, who had worked with Kuffner on software-development projects in the past, said his intention wasn’t to abandon the previous chief’s visions but to turn them into reality.

Kuffner looked tired, people at the event said. During his turn to speak he choked up, saying he was thankful for the experience and would miss his former colleagues in his new role. Another thing the American executive said he would miss: the amount of hair he used to have before taking the job.