FT : Scholz aide’s comments on future links with Russia trigger dismay

Scholz aide’s comments on future links with Russia trigger dismay
German foreign policy adviser Jens Plötner said relations with Moscow as big an issue as arms to Kyiv

Politicians and commentators in Berlin have reacted with dismay to remarks by chancellor Olaf Scholz’s foreign policy adviser, who said the media should focus more on Germany’s future relationship with Russia than on supplying Ukraine with heavy weapons.

Jens Plötner was addressing accusations levelled at the German government by large parts of the media and opposition that it has been hesitant in its support for Ukraine, and much slower to supply it with heavy weapons than the US, UK and France.

Speaking at a debate at the German Council on Foreign Relations (DGAP), he said the discussion about helping Ukraine was driven by a “feverishness that misses the big issues”.

“You can fill a lot of newspaper pages with 20 Marders [a kind of infantry fighting vehicle that Kyiv has requested from Germany], but there are somehow fewer articles about what our relationship with Russia should be like in future,” he said.

“And that is at least as exciting and relevant an issue, and one we could be discussing,” he added.

The remarks prompted an angry response from Marie-Agnes Strack-Zimmermann, a prominent MP from the liberal Free Democrats, one of the three parties in Scholz’s governing coalition.

Strack-Zimmermann, chair of the Bundestag’s defence committee, said Plötner’s comments “reveal the way of thinking of the last few decades that brought us into this terrible situation”. “It’s not the time to think affectionately about Russia but to help Ukraine,” she added.

The remarks by Plötner, who rarely speaks in public, shed a rare spotlight on to the way Scholz and his team view the war in Ukraine. Scholz has come under attack from allies in eastern Europe for maintaining telephone contact with Russian president Vladimir Putin, despite the atrocities Russian troops are alleged to have committed in towns like Bucha and the devastation wrought by Russian planes and artillery on Ukrainian cities.

At the DGAP event, Plötner insisted that Germany was supporting Ukraine “politically, economically and militarily” “to a massive degree”. He was speaking just hours before Ukraine announced it had taken delivery of a number of PzH 2000 armoured howitzers — the first heavy weapons that Germany has supplied to Kyiv in the conflict. The PzH is the Bundeswehr’s most modern piece of artillery and can strike targets 40km away.

But Plötner also spoke of Ukraine’s possible membership of the EU, which will be discussed at an EU summit later this week, in terms the government in Kyiv might find unpalatable.

“Just because you’re attacked doesn’t automatically mean your rule of law improves,” he said. “The problems Ukrainians have suffered from are structural, they’re still there and they must be dealt with.”

Noah Barkin, an expert at the German Marshall Fund of the US, a think-tank, said: “The messages that Plötner sent are worrying for the people of Ukraine, Germany’s partners in eastern Europe and many of its closest allies around the world, including the United States.”

He said the comments raised questions about whether Scholz’s team was “learning the right lessons from Putin’s war”. “Can the people who promoted close ties to Moscow and Beijing for years pivot to a foreign policy vision that is fit for the challenges of this new era of systemic rivalry?” he asked.

Georg Löfflmann, assistant professor in war studies at Warwick University, said Plötner symbolised the “establishment mindset of Ostpolitik, economic engagement and military reticence that has defined German foreign policy for decades”.

FT : Accor and Hoxton boutique hotel venture valued at more than €2bn ahead of d

Accor and Hoxton boutique hotel venture valued at more than €2bn ahead of deal
Plans to sell stake to Qatari consortium shows confidence in high end of travel market

Accor is to sell part of its stake in a luxury hotel joint venture with the Hoxton boutique chain to a Qatari consortium, valuing the company at more than €2bn and signalling confidence in the top end of the market amid a worsening economic outlook.

Europe’s largest hotel company launched the joint venture, which operates under the name Ennismore, in October through a merger of a quarter of its brands and the Hoxton hotels. The company has doubled the number of hotels it operates since the launch to more than 130 sites and also runs 275 bars and restaurants.

As part of the deal, Accor will sell a 10.8 per cent stake in Ennismore to a group of Qatari investors for €185mn, with backing from Qatar First Bank, but will retain a majority shareholding. Sharan Pasricha, co-chief executive of Ennismore, will retain just under 30 per cent of the company.

Sébastien Bazin, Accor’s chief executive, said the deal was a testament to the “formidable success” of Ennismore, which specialises in luxury hotels that serve as a destination in their own right and can attract a local clientele to their bars and restaurants.

“The future of hospitality has to lie with servicing as much a local customer base as it is to service someone who is travelling. We have to co-mingle, it’s a must,” he said. Around half of company revenue comes from food and drink sales.

Ennismore, which operates hotels in 40 countries, plans to open around 100 extra sites as part of a rapid rollout. Last year it confirmed plans for 60 new projects.

Bazin said Ennismore had benefited from a quick recovery after the pandemic, adding that the company was also earning revenue from remote workers as part of its Working From_ co-working brand, which he said would help it weather any slowdown in consumer demand later this year.

The group is expected to achieve earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation of more than €100mn by 2023, two years earlier than originally forecast, he added.

There are 14 hotel brands under the Ennismore umbrella, including the luxury Gleneagles estate in Scotland, former Accor prize assets the Mondrian in London’s Shoreditch and SLS hotels in North America, as well as the Hoxton chain.

The deal is expected to be completed by the close of the year subject to employee consultation and regulatory approval.

WWD : U.S., Europe Help Drive Resilience of Luxury Goods Market

U.S., Europe Help Drive Resilience of Luxury Goods Market
According to Bain & Company and the spring update of its Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study 2022, in collaboration with Fondazione Altagamma, the sector is expected to grow and reach revenues of between 360 billion and 380 billion euros by 2025.
MILAN — The luxury goods market continues to show resilience and is expected to reach revenues of between 360 billion and 380 billion euros by 2025.
Despite the challenges and disruptions that took place in early 2022, from the war in Ukraine to inflation and the zero-tolerance COVID-19 restrictions in China, the midterm direction of the luxury market remains unchanged, according to Bain & Company, which on Tuesday presented the spring update of its Luxury Goods Worldwide Market Study 2022, “Rerouting the Future” in collaboration with Fondazione Altagamma.
The study presents two scenarios. An optimistic one that sees the growth path experienced in the first half of 2022 continuing throughout the year, closing 2022 with revenues of around 320 billion to 330 billion euros, growing 10 to 15 percent over 2021. Another scenario forecasts a slower recovery of mainland China and challenged spending in mature markets caused by inflationary pressure and a macroeconomic slowdown, with sales reaching 305 billion to 320 billion euros by the end of 2022, growing 5 to 10 percent over 2021.

Luxury goods brands started this year showing especially strong growth while also playing a leading role in the world’s ongoing sustainable and digital transformation,” said Claudia D’Arpizio, a Bain & Company partner and lead author of the study.
After its worst dip in history, the personal luxury goods market in 2021 experienced a V-shaped rebound, reaching 288 billion euros in value and it registered “a remarkable performance” in the first quarter of 2022, growing by 17 to 19 percent at current exchange rates or 13 to 15 percent at constant exchange rates over the same period in 2021. The appreciation of currencies compared with the euro and a very strong Chinese New Year as well as a successful vaccination campaign also boosted the first quarter.
The U.S. and Europe led the growth in the first quarter of the year, with a surprising recovery of the latter, admitted D’Arpizio, underscoring the “enormous potential of local consumers,” which were likely neglected by luxury brands before the pandemic, and are now enticed by more marketing initiatives, events, promotions and communication.
The market benefited from a “flamboyant” 2021 holiday shopping season across the regions, said D’Arpizio, with a 7 percent increase over the same period in 2019. Additionally, China continued to see double-digit growth last year and the U.S. maintained momentum, even after the end of the federal stimulus. China’s local consumer appetite remains strong and will potentially lead the country to recover between late 2022 and early 2023, she offered.
The impact of the Russia-Ukraine conflict has so far been restricted to local markets, showing limited consequences on global luxury customer sentiment and spending. The weight of Russian and Ukrainian spending is around 2 percent so it did not really impact business, and “compared to other crises, it’s as if consumers got used to turbulence,” said D’Arpizio, although “there’s been a lot of reaction to the war, but there’s also been a strong desire to return to life,” she said characterizing this trend as YOLO — the “you only live once” effect.


While she admitted there may be a recession in the second half of the year, Europe is accelerating its recovery, despite the war. The region is on the path to recover 2019 levels of sales one year before expectations, thanks to booming local demand driven by a fierce “back to normal” attitude and a rebound in intra-regional tourism.
The U.S. is “tapping into the power of diversity and inclusion” discovering an expanded American customer base and second-tier cities.
South Korea is undergoing a profound transformation, increasing its size and cultural relevance, defined as “the new Japan,” by the study, replacing in the last two years tourist spending with local demand.
In terms of categories, iconic bags are driving the accessories segment, and high jewelry is at its peak. A recovery of social life and a return to the office are pushing new formalwear.
The virtual world is offering new opportunities for luxury brands, including the metaverse, social media and gaming. By the end of 2030, the estimated weight of digital assets and the metaverse will account for between 5 and 10 percent of the luxury market. “There are 3 billion people involved in gaming and 300 million in luxury, and the potential connection for luxury brands is huge,” D’Arpizio said.
The growing relevance of direct-to-consumer channels and responding to the call of sustainability are also key, she said.
“In the last few months, luxury brands have been forced to reroute their futures,” said Federica Levato, a Bain & Company partner and coauthor of the report. “Winners will rapidly embrace the changes, ensuring they fully understand the implications of new geopolitical dynamics and cultural trends for all of their stakeholders: consumers, investors, employees and society at large. Those that come out ahead will take advantage of the opportunities presented by the virtual world, the sustainability transformation and preferences of younger generations.”
Matteo Lunelli, president of Altagamma, and Stefania Lazzaroni, general manager of the association, also presented an update of its Consensus 2022 study. The year 2021 saw a post-COVID-19 recovery, and 2022, despite the impact of the war and the lockdowns in China, began with a very positive first quarter, showing a 17 to 19 percent growth compared with the same period in 2021.


“The confidence of American and European consumers is solid,” Lazzaroni said. As per the update, Europe is seen growing 12 percent in the year compared with a Consensus forecast of 8 percent made in November. North America is expected to grow 10 percent compared with a 7 percent growth estimated in November. Asia was expected to grow 9 percent, but the update forecasts a 5 percent gain. The Middle East is expected to grow 10 percent compared with the 7 percent gain forecast in November. Hard luxury is the category seen growing the most, up 9 percent, driven by branded jewelry, while watches have slowed down, seen growing 6.5 percent.
Lunelli said the “long-term trends remain somewhat constant” and, while admitting the existence of “strong macroeconomic uncertainties,” he said that the Consensus estimates an average 9 percent growth in earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization for the companies in the segment, driven by a strong demand of the American consumer and an acceleration of Europe.

FT : Why Ocado’s incessant cash burn isn’t such a bad thing

Why Ocado’s incessant cash burn isn’t such a bad thing
The online retailer has been consistent in tapping markets for money

There are two certainties about Ocado. First, it will take longer than investors expect to turn profitable. Second, it will take more money than they think to do it.

Equity capital markets have been basically closed this year, since investors have no appetite for speculative initial public offerings and the season of distressed cash calls hasn’t yet started. It’s fitting that the tech company-cum-grocer has stepped in to fill the gap with a £575mn placing.

Ocado has been remarkably consistent about tapping investors for cash over the past four-and-a-half years. Since it switched from delivering groceries to supplying the infrastructure for other people to do so, it has raised money on the way up — and now the way down. But there’s not much cause to think that’s about to change.

Two years ago it asked for just over £1bn, roughly two-thirds of it straight equity and the rest of it convertible debt. At the time, that seemed opportunistic. The company was three months from its pandemic-era share price peak. The combined package gave it £2.2bn of cash to play with. Now it seems more like a necessity.

While Ocado still had £1.5bn in liquidity at year-end in November, it had capital expenditure of £680mn last year. That figure is set to rise further, to about £800mn. Since the start of 2018 Ocado has raised £143mn from one placing, £183mn via a cash injection from customer Kroger, £563mn from selling half of its old retail business to Marks and Spencer, and £657mn from the 2020 equity raise. A profit warning from the retail joint venture last month may have hastened the cash call along, but the pattern here should be clear. This is a business that eats money.

Ocado says things are now different. This, it says, will be the last time it taps shareholders for funds. The placing and accompanying new revolving credit facility will give it enough headroom to “fund the requirements of its existing and expected customer commitments into the midterm”. After that — supposedly four to six years from now — it’s meant to turn cash flow positive and no new group financing will be needed.

To be fair, the context has shifted since last time round. The markets are much less willing to fund unprofitable growth, of which Ocado has been the UK champion. At £6bn its market capitalisation is less than a third of its peak. If it was a private company, its backers would probably have lost patience by now. Instead, it has the likes of Capital Group, Baillie Gifford and Jörn Rausing to stand behind it, good for around £210mn in the latest raise. But even they may demand greater discipline.

Investors are also less starry-eyed about the prospects for online retail. There hasn’t, as boss Tim Steiner claimed, been a real inflection point. Shoppers have not shifted online en masse. Earnings at the joint venture, Ocado Retail, are under pressure just like everywhere else. In the latest cash call Ocado is no longer talking up the opportunities for further global expansion. It more or less wants money to do what it’s already committed to doing.

But then investors aren’t paying for the pandemic bump any more. Shares are back to roughly where they were at the start of 2019, and its economics will improve as more of its warehouses finally open. It had 10 up and running by the end of last November. By November next year, it should be 30.

Admittedly, Ocado’s business model is still very far from “proven” as the company claims. It projects £6.3bn in revenue and £750mn in earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortisation, but doesn’t say exactly when it will get there. Given past form on earnings misses, don’t bet on it happening sooner rather than later.

But all that said, this is meant to be the type of company London’s equity markets just won’t back. Ocado is proof that they can. It’s an unprofitable, cash hungry company that has been afforded an extraordinary amount of time and capital to prove itself. Expect it to take more time and more money. But at this point — and this price — what’s a little more?

Business of Fashion : Luxury Sales Set to Grow by 5 to 15% This Year, Bain Says

Luxury Sales Set to Grow by 5 to 15% This Year, Bain Says
The global luxury market accelerated sharply in early 2022, the consultancy found, but risks slowing due to macroeconomic pressures and Covid-19 lockdowns in China.
A customer carries shopping bags from Louis Vuitton, Chanel and Christian Dior | Source: Getty Images

The global luxury market is enjoying strong momentum in 2022 so far, Bain & Company said, estimating that first-quarter sales rose 17 to 19 percent year on year.
The market is currently on track to grow by 10 to 15 percent this year, although a slower-growth scenario could see sales rise by just 5 percent, the consultancy said Tuesday in a report issued jointly with Italian trade group Fondazione Altagamma.
While luxury sales have rebounded sharply from the pandemic, macroeconomic pressures including high rates of inflation in the US and Europe, slowing GDP growth, and the war in Ukraine have clouded the outlook for consumer demand. A slower-than-expected recovery from China’s latest round of Covid-19 lockdowns in key population centres like Shanghai and Beijing is another factor that could cause the market to downshift in the months to come, Bain said.
Despite taking a heavy hit in 2020, the luxury market was actually bigger than ever by the end 2021: Last year, the personal luxury goods market grew 7 percent above 2019′s pre-pandemic levels (excluding currency shifts) to total €288 billion ($305 billion), Bain said, revising its previous finding that 2021 sales had been broadly flat compared to 2019.

The new figures mirror the pandemic trajectory of some of luxury’s most powerful players, including Chanel, Hermès and LVMH, which reported record sales in 2021. “The immediate rebound of the market [is] even stronger than what we forecasted,” said Bain partner Federica Levato.
The sector’s resilience stemmed from consumers’ desire to return to their pre-Covid lifestyles, Levato said, as well as the fact that luxury goods were one of the few discretionary spending categories still possible during the crisis (when dining out and travel were paused).
“To spend money on these products and on these brands is really a willingness to go back to normal life to some extent,” she said.
The pandemic also forced brands to think more creatively about how to reach their consumers, leading some to discover untapped opportunities that could benefit growth longer term. In North America, a recent bright spot for luxury, companies have appealed to a more diverse group of consumers across generations, locations and ethnicities, Levato said.
By 2025, Bain expects that non-white consumers will account for 25 to 30 percent of luxury spend in the US, up from about 20 percent in 2019. Geographically, the Mid-West is expected to be a key area of growth over the next few years.
This year, market growth is being driven by booming demand in Europe, where Bain now expects sales to surpass 2019 levels this year, as well as the US, with consumers anxious to return to pre-pandemic lifestyles and refreshing their wardrobes accordingly, according to Bain. Growth in South Korea, too, is accelerating, with the country playing an increasingly prominent role in the global luxury market, Levato said.
Performance in China was strong during the first quarter, but a fresh wave of Covid-19 restrictions in key cities has since hampered luxury spending. According to Bain estimates, the market is unlikely to recover before the end of the year or early 2023.

Business Of Fashion : How a Little Italian Hotel Became a Global Fashion Brand

How a Little Italian Hotel Became a Global Fashion Brand
Pellicano Group CEO Marie-Louise Sciò has turned her family’s hospitality business into a name with fashion cachet. Now, the group is an attractive acquisition target.
Pellicano group CEO and creative director Marie-Louise Sciò has turned her family’s hospitality business into a fashion brand with international cachet. (Getty Images)

KEY INSIGHTS
  • Pellicano Group CEO Marie-Louise Sciò has revamped her family’s hotels business with impeccable style, turning it into a fashion brand.
  • The group has collaborated with the likes of Birkenstock, Aquazzura and Matchesfashion, and launched e-commerce venture Issimo.
  • Though the business remains small — projected to generate about €27 million this year — Sciò’s distinctive point of view has made it an attractive acquisition target.

It started with a bathroom renovation.
In 2005, Marie-Louise Sciò, fresh out of studying architecture at the Rhode Island School of Design, had no ambitions to enter the hospitality business. But when her father, Roberto Sciò, asked her to remodel one of the washrooms at Il Pellicano — the mid-century hotel on the Argentario coast of Tuscany that he had owned since 1979 — she accepted the challenge.
“Then I really started getting into it,” she said. By 2007, Sciò, a tall brunette with a clear sense of fashion and a global sensibility, had begun a revamp of the entire property, where her friends from the art and fashion worlds, inspired by its combination of vintage charm and modern sophistication, were coming to stay with increasing frequency. She recruited Juergen Teller to photograph the scene — populated by the likes of Margherita Missoni, Vladimir Restoin Roitfield and Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert — inspired by images that Slim Aarons and John Swope had taken at the hotel in the 1960s when it opened. In 2011, she published a coffee table book featuring images from all three photographers.
“That [book] was a big game changer in terms of perception,” said Sciò, who was named chief executive in 2012. “It put [Il Pellicano] on the map for a whole new group of people.”

Pellicano Group CEO Marie-Louise Sciò photographed by Juergen Teller in 2009 for a coffee table book on Hotel Il Pellicano. (Juergen Teller)
Over the past decade, Sciò has helped to redefine the top end of the hospitality pyramid as consumer expectations have evolved. Beautiful locations, comfort and unimpeachable service are no longer enough to entice a sophisticated set of high-net worth travellers: they want style, too.
In recent years, luxury brands like Armani and Bulgari have pushed into hotels in an effort to attract high-net-worth consumers interested in spending an increasing amount of their disposable income on experiences. At the same time, hospitality ventures like Soho House and Ace have taken a more design-driven approach, hiring in-demand architects and interior specialists to create distinctive environments, as well as savvy buyers to stock their retail stores with under-the-radar fashion labels rather than typical tourist tchotchkes .
None have managed to do it quite like Sciò, who has extended her hotel brand into fashion, starting with Pellicano Group’s merch — like a dog bed rendered in its signature yellow stripes — and expanding into collaborations. A 2019 partnership with Birkenstock was an instant hit — so successful that the shoemaker, now owned by L Catterton, developed a version of the wildly popular raffia double-strap style designed with Sciò for its main collection.
That same summer, Il Pellicano hosted a pop-up with Matchesfashion, the first place you could buy the collaboration online, on the hotel’s yacht. “We like to find partners who are similarly minded to us,” said Matchesfashion CEO Paolo De Cesare, noting that the group’s hotels are beautiful, sophisticated and lively: an ideal place to host top clients. (This year, the two companies once again partnered, this time on a tour of Rome, Florence, Naples and Ischia, including a four-day event at a Pellicano-managed hotel. The “Grand Tour II” was promoted heavily by both sides, including through Sciò’s own Instagram account, which boasts more than 63,000 followers.)
It didn’t hurt that Pellicano group’s “fashionisation” came just as resortwear was emerging as a significant year-round category for many fashion brands.
Pellicano group has hosted pop-ups at its hotel properties with fashion e-tailer Matchesfashion. (Roberta Krasnig)
Sciò's ambitions to make Il Pellicano and sister property La Posta Vecchia — a villa near Rome previously owned by J. Paul Getty — more than a hotel group proved fortuitous when, at the height of the pandemic in June 2020, she launched Issimo, a full-fledged e-commerce site dedicated to Italian food, design and fashion.
Two years in the making, it gave locked-down consumers an opportunity to buy everything from an €88 Pellicano-branded tote — packed with a moka pot, freshly ground coffee beans and Krumiri Rossi cookies — to a pair of €625 satin flights designed exclusively for the site by Aquazzura.
“It was a sophisticated move,” said Sean O’Neill, senior hospitality editor at Skift, a travel industry intelligence company. “It makes sense because the audiences for the hotel experience and for the fashion experience truly overlap.” The site generated over a half a million euros in revenue in 2020, a significant sum in a year when Italian hotels were hard hit.

But the site was more than a pandemic band-aid, according to Sciò. While Issimo will make up only about 3 percent of the group’s overall revenue in 2022 — a little over €800,000 — it’s helped to raise brand awareness globally, with 88 percent of sales coming from outside Italy. After signing an agreement to manage another Italian seaside hotel, Mezzatorre in Ischia — a picturesque volcanic island near Naples — in 2021, the company is on track to generate nearly €27 million in revenue this year, up from €22 million in 2019.
Part of that growth has to do with a boom in summer travel to Europe, driven largely by affluent Americans, with occupancy rates at luxury hotels nearing 2019 levels, according to STR, an industry data tracker. (In Italy, the average daily rate for a room was more than €630 in May, according to preliminary data, up from €483 in the same month in 2019.)
It’s also down to Sciò's savvy. She understands what makes for a sexy brand, has the right connections and has been able to marry that marketing acumen with an ability to deliver a consistent experience.
“Can you genuinely tell a Ritz Carlton from a St Regis from a Waldorf if you look at a room or lobby picture?” asked Rob Burgess, editor of UK-based frequent-traveller site Headforpoints.com.
Sciò's distinctive point of view could make the Pellicano Group an attractive acquisition target for not only hospitality conglomerates chasing cool, but also the likes of LVMH and other fashion groups, which have invested more in experiential luxury in recent years.
LVMH currently owns less than 1 percent of the overall market for luxury hotels, according to Euromonitor research analysed by Bernstein, but views hospitality as a way to deepen connections with top customers. When it bought the Belmond group in 2018 for $2.6 billion, LVMH CFO Jean-Jacques Guiony said there would be opportunities for Belmond to collaborate with other LVMH brands.
“The high-end luxury hotel market is still fragmented, with the opportunity for large chains and new entrants like LVMH to build up their portfolios through M&A,” said Bernstein analyst Luca Solca, noting that demand at the high end of the hotel market “exploded” this year.
As for whether this family-run business would entertain such a deal: “We are of interest to people,” Sciò said. “But it’s like a marriage. We definitely need to find the right husband.”

WWD : Dior Spa Cheval Blanc Paris Goes Boating

Dior Spa Cheval Blanc Paris Goes Boating
A well-being cruise will run on the River Seine from June 29 to July 13.
DREAM BOAT: Dior is taking its Cheval Blanc Paris white-glove spa experience in a new direction — to the River Seine — with a well-being cruise starting June 29.
The boat extravaganza is intended to help kick off couture season, which begins on July 3. It also winks to the Bains de la Samaritaine, a luxurious, high-tech floating bathhouse of the 19th century, which was moored by Pont Neuf, directly in front of the department store. The bathhouse had about 100 treatment rooms that served up cosmetic and medicinal water treatments, steam baths and hydrotherapy options.
Pont Neuf is just a stone’s throw from where the Cheval Blanc Paris hotel is currently located, in the minus-one floor of the Samaritaine building, which reopened about one year ago.


The two-hour cruise, which runs through July 13, is to offer a 60-minute face or body treatment to five passengers at a time in its four suites.


A rendering of a treatment room on the Dior Spa Cheval Blanc Paris boat.
COURTESY OF PARFUMS CHRISTIAN DIOR
The Dior spa boat is to be moored at the Port Debilly, which faces the Eiffel Tower.
The upper deck will be decorated with rattan furniture and parasols in blue toile de Jouy, a pattern of bucolic scenes that is iconic for Dior and that was reinterpreted by the house’s artistic director Maria Grazia Chiuri.
Down the next two levels are a lounge and four treatment rooms, including three singles and one double.
Dior conceived an exclusive treatment menu for this cruise. As the boat glides through the water, people can choose to have a face treatment or a body massage. One face treatment is inspired by the rose from Granville, where Christian Dior’s childhood home stands, and another uses Yquem sap, found in Dior’s L’Or de Vie skin care.
In yin and yang fashion, a body treatment is relaxing, while the other is energizing. Prices for these range from 670 euros for the body massage to 750 euros for the face treatment and 1,500 euros for face or body care treatments for two people simultaneously. Meanwhile, the Pilates cruise is priced at 150 euros.

FT : Anarchy is a likelier future for the west than tyranny

Anarchy is a likelier future for the west than tyranny
The trend of events is not towards strongmen but towards ungovernability

“Little Brother is watching you,” said no novel or movie ever. Almost every fictional dystopia — 1984, The Handmaid’s Tale, Michel Houellebecq’s Submission — involves a vast and oppressive state, not a failed or ineffectual one. Because the most recent threats to civilisation were Hitler and Stalin, we expect the next one to take the same dictatorial form.

We shouldn’t. The story of our species is mostly the story of disorder, not too much order; of anarchy rather than tyranny. Even now, the state, a recent invention, is patchy and provisional in much of the world.

Western liberals should adjust their nightmares accordingly. Worrying about strongmen will continue to make sense as long as Donald Trump ponders a comeback. But the larger trend of events is towards fragmentation and chaos.

The pioneer is, as ever, the US. In a nation that is not just split but checkmated, neither Democrats nor Republicans can build a lasting electoral hegemony of the kind that allowed the New Deal, the Reagan revolution and other necessary reforms in the last century. Inflaming this governance problem is the large minority of the population that does not recognise, say, the legitimacy of President Joe Biden or the wisdom of public health advice. For a sense of how unreachable some voters are, consider that a third or more of Americans are open to the secession of their state from the union. Even if this is so much armchair bluff, states with as much clout as Florida and Texas increasingly define themselves against the federal government.

There is cheering and distressing news here. Even if a tyrant could seize power in a coup, no country so fractious and ornery would remain under his or her thumb for long. The far more plausible future is an ungovernable America.

If the theme here is entropy, Europe shouldn’t feel left out. In France, the political parties that gave some shape to the Fifth Republic have shrunk at dazzling speed and parliament now brims with radicals. A presidency that Charles de Gaulle designed to be quasi-monarchical in its power has in recent decades known two ineffectual one-termers (Nicolas Sarkozy and François Hollande), a man who gave up on economic reform early on (Jacques Chirac) and the very partial success of Emmanuel Macron. Which is likelier: that all these leaders were fools, or that the nation itself is ever harder to lead?

In France, at least, turmoil is a part of folk memory. The British are less prepared for the decay of political order. They have had as many prime ministers since July 13 2016 as between May 2 1979 and June 27 2007. There is a separatist tug from Scotland, a deteriorating crisis in Northern Ireland and what appears to be the beginning of the end of a generation of excruciatingly hard-won industrial peace. Unwritten ethical conventions have turned into dust under a laughing cavalier of a prime minister. That is a measure of his potential as a demagogue, yes, but also of how little structure there now is in public life. As his 80-seat parliamentary majority proves impotent against unions and Nimbys, it is the flight of power from the centre that stands out, not its ruthless concentration there.

It is customary at this point to say that chaos is exactly what creates the public clamour for a Caesar or Napoleon: for a suspension of democratic niceties. But there is nothing to say that one follows the other. Italy has had messy, reform-blocking politics for much of this century without crossing into rule by personal decree. The US has had four presidential assassinations and a civil war in its history, but no dictator. A relapse into that nihilism is more plausible — isn’t it? — than a model of government that has no pedigree in the two and a half centuries of the republic. Perhaps it is because there is no face or voice to put to it that entropy goes under-discussed, under-dramatised and under-feared, even as it accounts for the greater share of human history.

“It could happen here,” say the prophets of a fascist future, as though the rest of us were discounting the possibility. In truth, the failure of imagination is all theirs. The great dictators of the 20th century have such a hold on western thought as to numb it to other kinds of civilisational danger. If minds as fine as Philip Roth’s and Aldous Huxley’s assumed that a bleak future must be a totalitarian one, it is understandable that my lesser profession commits the same error. But not quite forgivable. True vigilance is the fear of under-government as much as of sinister government.