FT : Germany confronts a broken business model

Germany confronts a broken business model
Can the country’s industrial economy reinvent itself for an era without cheap gas from Russia?

Hives of activity don’t get bigger — and busier — than BASF’s headquarters in Ludwigshafen. The size of a small town, it’s the largest integrated chemical complex in the world, with one of Europe’s biggest wastewater treatment plants, its own hospital and fire brigade.

The lifeblood of Ludwigshafen is natural gas. It is the substance that courses through its dense network of pipes, the fuel for its power plants, the feedstock for its chemical processes. And Russia’s war in Ukraine has knocked out its main supplier.

BASF first responded to the soaring price of gas by shutting down its ammonia plant and reducing the run rate of its acetylene facility, hobbling production of two chemical building blocks used to make a host of different products that are vital to modern industrial value chains.

“High natural gas prices have created a situation where importing ammonia from overseas was cheaper than manufacturing it ourselves,” says Uwe Liebelt, head of BASF’s European sites.

By October, the company had gone much further, concluding that higher energy costs had so badly undermined Europe’s competitiveness that it would have to transform its entire business.

Chief executive Martin Brudermüller announced that BASF would downsize in Europe “as quickly as possible, and also permanently”. Most of the cuts are expected to be made at the Ludwigshafen site.

BASF is not alone. Since the summer, companies across Germany have been scrambling to adjust to the near disappearance of Russian gas. They have dimmed the lights, switched to oil — and, as a last resort cut production. Some are even thinking about moving operations to countries where energy is cheaper.

That is triggering deep concern about the future of German industry and the sustainability of the country’s business model, which has long been predicated on the cheap energy guaranteed by a plentiful supply of Russian gas.

Constanze Stelzenmüller, director of the Center on the US and Europe at the Brookings Institution, has said Germany is a case study of a western state that made a “strategic bet” on globalisation and interdependence — and was now suffering the consequences.

“It outsourced its security to the US, its export-led growth to China, and its energy needs to Russia,” she wrote in June. “It is now finding itself excruciatingly vulnerable in an early 21st century characterised by great power competition and an increasing weaponisation of interdependence by allies and adversaries alike.”

In many ways, BASF epitomises Stelzenmüller’s point. Over the years, it became highly dependent on piped Russian gas: Brudermüller said in April it formed the “basis for our industry’s competitiveness”.

And it has become increasingly intertwined with China, which now accounts for €12bn of its annual revenues. BASF is currently building a €10bn chemical complex in Guangdong, south-eastern China, which is the largest foreign investment in its history.


Some in Berlin eye the new China plant with suspicion. “They’re basically building another version of Ludwigshafen there,” says one German official. “The fear is they might one day shut down the German site altogether and transact all their business in the Chinese factory instead. Their shareholders couldn’t care less, as long as the money keeps flowing.” 

BASF has largely dismissed concerns that it’s repeating the same mistakes German business made in Russia — becoming too dependent on an authoritarian state with potentially aggressive intentions towards its neighbours. Brudermüller, who spent ten years living in Hong Kong, says BASF can’t afford not to be in China, which accounts for 50 per cent of the global chemicals market and is growing much more strongly than Europe.

There were risks, Brudermüller told reporters in October, but “we’ve come to the conclusion that China is an opportunity . . . and it makes sense to expand our position [there].” Germans should “stop this China-bashing and look at ourselves a bit more self-critically”.

Some Germans are doing just that — and calling for a major rethink of the country’s economic paradigm, on everything from deregulation to immigration. “The German business model has to change,” Christian Lindner, the country’s finance minister, tells the Financial Times. “It was based on low energy prices . . . on an abundance of skilled workers, and open markets for Germany’s high-tech products.” But “this model doesn’t really work any more because many of the core elements have changed.”

We’re living hand to mouth’
Companies across Germany are finding themselves burdened by exorbitant short-term energy costs. KPM, one of Europe’s oldest porcelain producers, founded by King Frederick the Great of Prussia in 1763, fires its vases, cups and plates in kilns that are heated to 1,600C and has no alternative to gas.

“It’s the company’s biggest crisis since the second world war,” says chief executive Jörg Woltmann. “We’re living hand to mouth.”

KPM has been able to cut its energy use by 10-15 per cent, he says, by switching off the lights and heating at weekends and packing its kilns more tightly “so we can do with one less fire”. The company has not reduced production: but its costs have soared, not just for energy but for all its raw materials and inputs like packaging. Woltmann says KPM will have to start raising prices for its products by the middle of next year.

Government statistics released last month said production in energy intensive industries, which account for 23 per cent of all industrial jobs in Germany, had declined by 10 per cent since the start of the year. Sectors like metals, glass, ceramics, paper and textiles have taken the biggest hit. “That means there are 1.5mn workers in Germany whose industries are currently under pressure,” says Clemens Fuest, head of the Ifo Institute.

Heinz-Glas, a 400-year-old glass manufacturer based in the southern state of Bavaria which makes bottles and jars for the perfume and cosmetics industry, is also suffering.

“In 2019 we paid about €11mn for energy — this year it will be €32mn,” says Carletta Heinz, the company’s chief executive.

Unlike KPM, Heinz-Glas has struggled to curb its gas consumption. “There’s little scope for energy efficiency measures,” says Heinz. “We’ve always been very careful about our energy use and so we can’t do much more to reduce it.”

Her hope is that the government will intervene to help. There are precedents: Heinz-Glas suffered a crisis in the 19th century when the price of wood, its main energy source, went through the roof. “The government financed the construction of a railway so coal could be delivered straight to our factory, and we were able to switch,” she says.

Some help is already on its way. In September, chancellor Olaf Scholz announced the creation of a €200bn “protective shield” to cushion the impact of higher energy costs on companies and households, including a “brake” on the price of gas. Heinz hopes this is just the start. “The government will do what’s needed to keep industry in Germany alive,” she says. “Because without industry our country is worth nothing.”

Germany’s glass and ceramics manufacturers may be struggling — but they are relatively small. Not so the chemical industry, which employs more than 450,000 people in Germany. “If it were to halve in size that would have a direct impact on the country’s prosperity,” says Henrik Ahlers, country manager for EY Germany.

Germany has Europe’s largest chemicals industry by far — yet it is almost entirely reliant on imported energy and raw materials. For decades, BASF, Europe’s largest industrial consumer of gas, derived most of those imports from Russia.

Now the cost of that dependence is becoming clear. The company says it had to pay €2.2bn more for gas between January and September than it did in the same period of 2021 and ended up making a €130mn loss in its German business in the third quarter. It now plans to shave €1bn in costs over the next two years, partly in response to the surge in energy prices.

BASF’s Liebelt sees little relief ahead. “The gas price has come down but it’s not even close to what it was before,” he says. “[And] it will stay significantly above what we have in the US, for example.”

The spectre of deindustrialisation
The concern now is that industrial production could shift away from Germany altogether in the long term. A poll over the summer by the BDI, Germany’s main business lobby, found that nearly one in four Mittelstand companies — the small and medium-sized enterprises that form the backbone of the German economy — were considering moving production abroad. It was principally energy costs that were triggering the shift.

But they’re not the only factor. The business environment in Germany — and Europe more broadly — has “deteriorated”, BASF’s Brudermüller said in October. Growth in the European market has been sluggish for a decade. EU regulation is creating “great uncertainty”, he said.

Industry leaders cite measures such as the EU’s industrial emissions directive and its chemicals strategy for sustainability, designed to ban the most harmful chemicals in consumer products.

“The regulatory burden that’s building up might be manageable for global players but I don’t know how a midsized company of 100-200 people is supposed to digest it,” says Liebelt.


The investment climate elsewhere is beginning to look more attractive. The Biden administration’s Inflation Reduction Act (IRA), which includes $369bn of subsidies for green technologies, has the potential to seduce dozens of German businesses away from their domestic base.

Under the IRA, subsidies for purchases of electric vehicles would be restricted to those made with parts from North America and assembled there, a regime the EU says would damage Europe’s industrial base and breach World Trade Organization rules.

Speaking on a recent TV talk show, Siegfried Russwurm, head of the BDI, said he was struck by “how many Mittelstand companies are saying that with . . . the advantages I have in the US with ‘Buy American’ I should seriously consider making my next investment [there] rather than in Germany”.

Some are going so far as to predict that Germany will become denuded of its industrial base. A recent note by Deutsche Bank analyst Eric Heymann predicted the share of manufacturing in Germany’s gross value added — 20 per cent in 2021 — will decline in the coming years.

“If we look back at the current energy crisis in about ten years, we could see this time as the starting point for an accelerated deindustrialisation of Germany,” he wrote.

Big multinationals will survive. But “it’s going to be a bigger challenge for the German Mittelstand, especially in energy intensive industries, to adjust to the new energy world,” he went on. “Many companies will fail to do so.”

Building on strengths
The government is less pessimistic. Robert Habeck, economy minister, told a conference in November that some were taking an “almost sensual pleasure” in predicting Germany’s decline, defining problems “just so they can wallow in them”.

“Whoever thinks we’ll let Germany as an industrial power go bust hasn’t reckoned . . . with the ingenuity of German industry, and hasn’t reckoned with the resolve of the German government and of my ministry,” he said. “It won’t happen.”

Some economists share his optimism. Jens Südekum, professor of international economics at Düsseldorf’s Heinrich Heine University, points to the government measures such as the gas price brake. “With that, the risk of deindustrialisation has been more or less eliminated,” he says.

He also stresses the long-term strengths of German industry — deep value chains, high productivity and product quality, and Mittelstand companies that are global leaders in their field.

Germany’s industrial success “is the result of long-term investments, deep knowhow and a high degree of automation”, he says. “These are advantages that have built up over decades and aren’t going to suddenly disappear.”


Germany has also shown in the past that it can successfully change its business model when its back is to the wall. “Agenda 2010”, the sweeping liberalisation of the social security system and labour market pushed through by chancellor Gerhard Schröder in 2003, is the prime example. The reforms were credited with encouraging tens of thousands back into work and reducing long-term unemployment.

“We succeeded then in sorting ourselves” says Ahlers. “It wasn’t easy, but when you really go for it, you can get things done.”

Many in Berlin say the current crisis could provide just the same spur to reform as the high unemployment and economic stagnation of the early 2000s which led to Agenda 2010.

But it will take work, Lindner acknowledges. “We have to reform immigration to allow more skilled workers into Germany, speed up planning procedures so infrastructure projects can move forward faster, unchain our capital markets so they can finance start-ups . . . and digitise our economy and public administration,” he says.

“We have to pick up the pace and work on overcoming our weaknesses.”

However, ministers, company bosses and economists all agree that the future of German industry may hinge on how quickly it can find new ways to power itself. The country has made valiant efforts to find alternatives to Russian energy imports, building import terminals for liquefied natural gas, bringing its mothballed coal-fired power stations back online and extending the life of its nuclear reactors.

It is also speeding up the rollout of wind and solar power, a key part of its plan to derive 80 per cent of its electricity from renewables by 2030 — up from 50 per cent now — and go carbon neutral by 2045.

But BASF worries that the renewables push is happening far too slowly. “If we want to achieve our 2030 target for wind and solar, we’ll have to build almost 30 gigawatts every single year, but in the past few years we’ve built just 6.5GW on average every year,” says Lars Kissau, head of BASF’s Net Zero Accelerator. “So every year the gap grows.”

The scale of the challenge is indeed gargantuan. The wind industry says Germany must put up 6 wind turbines a day to meet the 2030 goal, requiring as much as 3,300 tonnes of steel per day — or nearly half an Eiffel Tower. Yet between January and June of this year, it managed a rate of less than one turbine a day.

Markus Steilemann, head of the VCI, the German chemicals trade body, says that faced with such hurdles, Germany risks “turning from an industrial country into an industrial museum”.

Asked about Steilemann’s comments, Habeck, the economy minister, tells the FT the situation the chemicals industry finds itself in is “undeniably challenging”. But he implies it only has itself to blame.

“They didn’t diversify their energy supply but relied on Russian gas,” he says. “And that has now turned out to have been a mistake.”

FT : Spacs confess to accounting weaknesses as year-end audits loom

Spacs confess to accounting weaknesses as year-end audits loom
Forty-nine per cent of a sample of companies that went public in the cash shell boom had material flaws

Scores of companies that went public during the Spac boom are heading into the financial year-end with weaknesses in their accounting practices, raising the prospect that their annual reports may not paint a true picture of their financial health.

The failures of internal controls and poor bookkeeping practices, disclosed in quarterly reports over the past month, add more evidence for critics of special purpose acquisition companies, who say the trend has resulted in a large number of immature and potentially risky new listings.

The companies themselves, meanwhile, are faced with escalating costs as they race to hire more accounting staff and reach the higher audit standards demanded by public markets.

“A lot of people were caught up in the glow of, ‘Hey I can go public now, it’s a bull market, everyone’s really excited about my company and my vision’,” said Kris Bennatti, a former auditor who now runs the investment research firm Bedrock AI. “The glow is gone. Reality has come to bite us.”

More than 350 companies have gone public in the US since the start of 2020 by merging with a Spac, a cash shell set up specifically to make an acquisition. The arrangement allows a company to avoid a traditional initial public offering, which can be more expensive and bars executives from making speculative forecasts about their future prospects. Companies that come to market via a Spac are sometimes called “de-Spacs”.

After an initial clamour among investors, many de-Spac share prices have crashed amid notable disasters and a wider rethink of the value of early-stage businesses. They include revelations of fraud at the electric truckmaker Nikola and a warning of possible bankruptcy by the crypto miner Core Scientific.

Research by Bedrock in September found 49 per cent of the quarterly financial filings by de-Spacs since 2020 contained an admission of ineffective internal controls. A review of more recent filings, covering the third quarter, shows only a small number of the companies with problems had been able to rectify them.

The media group BuzzFeed, for example, said on November 14 that “although management designed remediation plans in 2021, due to resource constraints and lack of sufficient staff with technical expertise, the necessary business process and IT general controls were partially implemented or not executed consistently”.

Dozens of others included similar language in their third-quarter filings. Redwire, a space infrastructure business assembled through a string of acquisitions since 2020, said work to improve its accounting controls would continue into next year. Auditors had forced Redwire to restate earlier financial filings, and the company blamed compliance problems on the failure to set the right “tone at the top”.

Other space ventures still reporting material weaknesses include Rocket Lab USA, Astra Space and Virgin Orbit, the satellite launch business fronted by Richard Branson. A material weakness is typically said to open a “reasonable possibility” that a financial misstatement “will not be prevented or detected on a timely basis”.

Redwire was among many companies saying they were hiring additional accounting and IT staff to improve its internal controls, but it added: “These remediation measures will be time consuming, will result in the company incurring additional costs, and will place additional demands on our financial and operational resources.”

Investors in a Spac have the option of getting their cash back instead of keeping shares in the company after a merger, and companies that had high investor redemptions are about 50 per cent more likely to have reported material weaknesses in their financials, said Michael Ohlrogge, a New York University law professor who studies Spacs. The higher the level of redemptions, the less cash is available to the de-Spac company, and the fewer outside investors might be scrutinising the company.

“Not only are there fewer big shareholders to hold their feet to the fire, there is also less liability risk,” he said. “It’s also of course possible that the high redemption Spacs had high redemptions because investors realised the target companies were not well run, ie the low quality could in some cases be causing the high redemptions, rather than the other way around.”

Another reason for the elevated level of accounting weaknesses among de-Spacs could be that Spacs are exempted from some of the securities laws governing IPOs, Ohlrogge said. In an IPO, an underwriter is liable for misstatements in a company’s flotation documents, which can push them to improve the quality of their accounting practices before going public.

Bedrock’s research this year found that the 49 per cent of filings with material weaknesses among de-Spacs compared with 20 per cent across US public companies over the same period.

Bennatti cautioned investors not to dismiss such red flags in the financial statements.

“If you can’t report your revenue line correctly under generally accepted accounting principles, you are probably not tracking your key performance indicators very well,” she said. “All of these things are related to each other and they do matter.”

FT : China braces for Covid outbreaks among medical staff and migrant workers

China braces for Covid outbreaks among medical staff and migrant workers
Authorities fear virus surge in unprotected rural areas during lunar new year holiday as Beijing eases restrictions

Chinese health authorities have raised concerns about Covid-19 outbreaks among frontline medical staff and migrant workers returning home during the lunar new year holiday, as inadequately prepared rural areas could be overwhelmed by the virus.

“One of our biggest challenges is how hospitals cope with a surge in infections among doctors and nurses,” a health official in Guangzhou, the capital of southern Guangdong province, told the Financial Times.

The official, who asked not to be identified, added that infections among health workers were “an important factor” in a decision last month by officials in Shijiazhuang, the capital of northern Hebei province, to reverse a shortlived experiment with looser “zero-Covid” controls.

In recent days, however, cities across China have accelerated the lifting of stringent pandemic restrictions — a reaction in part to nationwide protests against President Xi Jinping’s controversial zero-Covid policy.

On Tuesday, Beijing announced that people entering most public buildings would no longer be required to show a negative coronavirus test result, following a similar move by the government of Shanghai on Monday. Testing sites in many cities now urge people not to queue for tests unless “really necessary”.

Kelly Xiao, a Guangzhou-based accountant, recently tried to take her four-year-old daughter to a local hospital after she came down with cold symptoms and a fever, but was turned away.

“The nurses told us that there were already dozens of positive [Covid] cases there,” she said. “I was advised by one of the nurses that if [a home] rapid antigen test was negative, it would be safer to keep my daughter at home.”

The official in Guangzhou added that the city would also discourage its millions of migrant workers from returning to their hometowns, mainly in rural inland areas, for next month’s lunar new year. The public holiday, which begins on January 21, is China’s biggest of the year, and triggers the world’s largest annual migration of people, an event referred to as the “spring rush”, or chunyun.

“We need to make sure this year’s chunyun doesn’t return to pre-pandemic levels,” the official said. “We are worried about third- and fourth-tier cities where hospitals are under-developed and local residents are less well-informed [about Covid]. Their healthcare systems could be overwhelmed.”

China’s initial Covid outbreak, which raged for weeks after the virus emerged in late 2019 in Wuhan, was complicated by widespread infections among medical staff, many of whom died.

There have also been reports on social media of an outbreak in Baoding, a city about 150km south-west of Beijing where authorities have reported a few new cases. “Plenty of people around us have Covid but are just taking medicine at home,” said one resident who asked not to be identified. “Tests are not required to go into shopping malls or supermarkets.”

The FT was unable to independently verify reports of an outbreak in Baoding.

The eased testing requirements have raised questions about the reliability of the daily tally of Covid cases from China’s National Health Commission, which reported 27,847 new infections on Tuesday for the day prior.

Baoding is located in Hebei province, which surrounds Beijing and has a population of 75mn. The province reported just 184 new infections on Tuesday.

>>> US After Hours Summary: GTLB +20.8%, SUMO +11.8% on strong earnings reports,

After Hours Summary: GTLB +20.8%, SUMO +11.8% on strong earnings reports, PEP +0.2% on news it will lay off hundreds of workings, according to WSJ

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: GTLB +20.8%, SUMO +11.8%

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: BIVI +11.3% (announces positive NE3107 results), FNKO +3.5% (appoints new CEO; current CFO resigning), NDAQ +2.1% (reports November data), CENX +2% (moving higher after US and EU weigh new tariffs on Chinese steel and aluminum, according to Bloomberg), BHR +1.8% (reports November 2022 RevPAR), GME +1.4% (begins round of layoffs, according to Axios), BLNK +1.1% (appoints new COO), AA +1% (moving higher after US and EU weigh new tariffs on Chinese steel and aluminum, according to Bloomberg), COIN +0.3% (FTC probing several crypto firms over allegations of deceptive ads, according to Bloomberg), HOOD +0.3% (FTC probing several crypto firms over allegations of deceptive ads, according to Bloomberg), ASR +0.2% (reports November traffic), PEP +0.2% (to lay off hundreds of workers, according to WSJ), META +0.2% (would remove news if Journalism Competition and Preservation Act is passed, according to Reuters), LSCC +0.2% (unveils new FPGA platform), IBP +0.1% (acquires Orr Industries), CBOE +0.1% (reports November trading volume)

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: HLF -10.9% (proposed $250 mln offering of convertible notes), AXON -3.8% (to offer $500 mln convertible notes in private offering), SI -0.5% (issues FTX-related letter), DRS -0.4% (U.S. Army contract of $39.5 mln)

>>> US Close Dow -1,40% S&P -1,79% Nasdaq -1,93% Russell -2,78%

Closing Stock Market Summary

It was a trend-down day for the stock market following the big run we've had in recent weeks. Entering today, the Dow Jones Industrial Average was up 19.9% this quarter, the S&P Midcap 400 was up 16.8%, the Russell 2000 was up 13.7%, the S&P 500 was up 13.6%, and the Nasdaq Composite was up 8.4%.

Those gains were partially predicated on the notion that the Fed may be apt to soften its approach, a view that was presumably aided by Fed Chair Powell's speech last week.

Buyer enthusiasm was dampened today, however, by an article in The Wall Street Journal from Nick Timiraos, who some believe is a preferred source to float the Fed's thinking. Mr. Timiraos suggested that wage inflation could ultimately compel the Fed in 2023 to take its benchmark rate higher than the 5.00% the market currently expects.

Accordingly, market participants were distracted today by the thought that the market may have overreacted to Mr. Powell's speech. In turn, there were festering concerns that the Fed might overtighten and trigger a deeper economic setback, which overshadowed reports discussing relaxed COVID restrictions in China.

The fed funds futures market is pricing in a 64.1% probability of the terminal rate hitting 5.00-5.25% by mid-2023 compared to a 46.9% probability on Friday, according to the CME FedWatch Tool. 

Other factors that helped to rein in some of the market's rebound energy included:

  • A stronger-than-expected ISM Non-Manufacturing Index for November (56.5% vs 54.4% prior) that bolstered the view that the Fed is apt to keep rates higher for longer.
  • An uptick in Treasury yields. The 2-yr note rose nine basis points to 4.38% and the 10-yr note rose nine basis points to 3.60%.
  • Notable strength in the U.S. Dollar Index, up 0.8% to 105.33.
  • Softness in mega-cap stocks, but some acute weakness in Tesla (TSLA 182.45, -12.41, 6.4%) even though it refuted press reports that it is planning an output cut of at least 20% for the Model Y at its Shanghai plant in December.

The broad-based selling that ensued saw the S&P 500 breach support at its 200-day moving average (4,045) and close just a whisker below the 4,000 level. 

All 11 S&P 500 sectors sported losses that ranged from 0.6% (utilities) to 3.0% (consumer discretionary). The latter was weighed down by Tesla and Amazon.com (AMZN 91.01, -3.12, -3.3.%), but also by V.F. Corp (VFC 29.51, -3.71, -11.2%) after the company lowered its EPS guidance for FY23 due to soft demand, particularly in North America.

Along with consumer discretionary, other cyclical sectors like financials (-2.5%) and energy (-2.5%) suffered the biggest losses.

Energy complex futures closed with decent losses today even though OPEC+ agreed to maintain its production cut target of 2 million barrels per day from November until the end of 2023. Separately, the EU and its allies agreed to a $60.00 per barrel price cap on Russian oil. WTI crude oil futures fell 3.5% today to $77.32/bbl and natural gas futures fell 10.4% to $5.62/mmbtu.

  • Dow Jones Industrial Average: -6.6% YTD
  • S&P Midcap 400: -11.7% YTD
  • Russell 2000: -18.1% YTD
  • S&P 500: -16.1% YTD
  • Nasdaq Composite: -28.2% YTD 

Reviewing today's economic data:

  • The ISM Non-Manufacturing Index for November increased to 56.5% (consensus 53.5%) from 54.4% in October. The dividing line between expansion and contraction is 50.0%. The November reading marks the 30th straight month of growth for the services sector.
    • The key takeaway from the report is that business activity for the non-manufacturing sector, which comprises the largest swath of U.S. economic activity, strengthened in November, aiding the view that the Fed will keep rates higher for longer.
  • Factory orders for manufactured goods increased 1.0% month-over-month in October (consensus 0.7%) following an unrevised 0.3% increase in September. Shipments of manufactured goods jumped 0.7% after increasing 0.3% in September.
    • The key takeaway from the report is the quick rebound seen in business spending, evidenced by the 0.6% increase in nondefense capital goods orders excluding aircraft, and the sizable jump in shipments of nondefense capital goods excluding aircraft (+1.5%) that will compute favorably for Q4 GDP forecasts.
  • The final IHS Markit Services PMI reading for November came in at 46.2 after the last reading of 46.1.

Tuesday's economic data is limited to the October Trade Balance ( consensus -$77.2 billion; prior -$73.3 billion) at 8:30 a.m. ET

WWD : Saint Laurent Will Show Next Men’s Collection in Paris: Sources

Saint Laurent Will Show Next Men’s Collection in Paris: Sources
In recent years, Anthony Vaccarello staged men's shows in the U.S., Italy and Morocco.

HOME BASE: Anthony Vaccarello, who has taken men’s collections for Saint Laurent on the road the last few years, will return to Paris for an IRL show during Men’s Fashion Week on Jan. 17, sources told WWD.

The venue and other details could not immediately be learned.

Men’s collections for fall 2023 are to be unveiled in the French capital from menswear from Jan. 17 to Jan. 22.

Last July, Vaccarello mounted a spectacular display in the rolling desert outside of Marrakech, his models rounding a circular pool, out of which emerged an otherworldly ring, like a portal to another dimension.

He has also staged Saint Laurent men’s shows in Jersey City, New Jersey, Venice, Italy, and Malibu, California, in recent years.

Saint Laurent’s return to the French capital should give extra oomph to the Paris men’s shows, which have been gaining momentum in recent years.

The schedule has been bulging as a host of international designers took advantage of the Paris stage, including Craig Green, Mike Amiri, John Elliott and Bianca Saunders.

In addition, many brands — including Comme des Garçons and Thom Browne — have returned to the Paris schedule as the COVID-19 pandemic eased or as they uncoupled coed shows to put a bigger spotlight on men’s collections, such as Givenchy did last June.

REuters - Putin drives across Crimea bridge in a Mercedes

Putin drives across Crimea bridge in a Mercedes - Reuters
05-Dec-2022 16:17:36
Recasts headline and lead

By Guy Faulconbridge

MOSCOW, Dec 5 (Reuters) - President Vladimir Putin on Monday drove a Mercedes across the Crimean Bridge linking southern Russia to the annexed Crimean peninsula, less than two months since an explosion tore through one of the Kremlin chief's showcase infrastructure projects.

The 12-mile (19 km) road and rail bridge, which was personally opened by Putin in 2018, was bombed on Oct. 8 in an attack Russia said was carried out by Ukraine.

Putin, accompanied by Deputy Prime Minister Marat Khusnullin, was shown on state television behind the wheel of a Mercedes, asking questions about where the attack took place.

"We are driving on the right hand side," Putin said, as he drove across the bridge. "The left side of the bridge, as I understand it, is in working condition, but nevertheless it needs to be completed. It still suffered a little, we need to bring it to an ideal state."

Putin also walked along parts of the bridge, Europe's largest, to inspect sections that are still visibly scorched.

Ukraine never claimed responsibility for the bombing of the bridge on the morning of Oct. 8, a day after Putin's 70th birthday. Russia's Federal Security Service said the attack was organised by Ukrainian military intelligence.

The explosion wrecked one section of the road bridge, temporarily halting traffic across the Kerch Strait. The blast also destroyed several fuel tankers on a train heading towards the annexed Crimean peninsula from neighbouring southern Russia.

Russia in 2014 annexed Crimea, which was transferred from Soviet Russia to Soviet Ukraine in 1954 by then Soviet leader Nikita Khrushchev and recognised by Russia in 1994 after the collapse of the USSR.

Ukraine has vowed to return Crimea, which relies on the bridge for supplies.

Putin's ally Arkady Rotenberg's company built the vast structure, which is Europe's longest bridge. Putin has long lauded the project, boasting at one point that Russian Tsars and Soviet leaders had dreamed of building it but never did.

>>> US Early premarket gappers

Early premarket gappers

  • Gapping up:
    • SGML +7.1%, ALGM +5.7%, TXMD +5.2%, XPO +4.9%, CUBE +4.2%, WE +3.8%, NUVA +3.1%, CS +3%, SMTC +2.8%, PCH +1.2%, NVS +1.1%, VALE +0.8%, AES +0.7%
  • Gapping down:
    • CMPX -3.8%, LAAA -1.7%, SPY -0.3%, IWM -0.3%, QQQ -0.3%, DIA -0.3%