>>> What to look at today - 21st of August 2024

Stocks in Asia snapped a three-day winning streak, mirroring a halt in Wall Street’s rally as investors wait on US payrolls data and Federal Reserve minutes for clues on interest rate cuts.  Chinese stocks in Hong Kong fell as much as 2%, contributing to Asian equities’ slump. Technology stocks dipped on concerns over the country’s consumption outlook, Walmart Inc.’s planned sale of its stake in JD.com Inc. and poor earnings from key players including Kuaishou Technology. Contracts for US and European shares ticked higher.  The dollar steadied after weakening for three sessions as markets also await Fed Chair Jerome Powell’s Jackson Hole speech on Friday for more clues on the amount and timing of the interest-rate reductions. The Bloomberg Dollar Spot Index rose after three days of decline, as the Thai baht climbed to its highest since July 2023 ahead of the country’s central bank decision.  Shares also slipped in Tokyo, shrugging off improving exports data. Japan’s equities dropped as the yen’s advance raises worries about earnings. The local currency steadied at around 145 against the dollar after rallying Tuesday. Elsewhere in Asia, policymakers in Indonesia and Thailand are tipped to keep interest rates unchanged on Wednesday as they weigh uncertainties over political transitions while awaiting the Fed’s imminent easing. Australian 10-year yields fell six basis points in morning trading.  Aside from flows and positioning, the recent rally was also fueled by bets the Federal Reserve will signal it’s getting closer to cutting rates, leading bond traders to take on record amounts of risk as they anticipate a Treasury market rally.   The S&P 500 fell below 5,600 Tuesday as Nvidia Corp. — which had rallied almost 25% in six days — led losses in megacaps. Treasury 10-year yields were little changed after declining six basis points. Brent crude declined a third day on the back of a potential cease-fire in Gaza and mounting concern about the global demand outlook, while gold hit a fresh record high. Dan Wantrobski at Janney Montgomery Scott says he continues to anticipate ongoing stock-market strength on a near-term basis, but remains on “high alert” for another, potentially bigger corrective wave moving through the August-October time frame.  US After Hours KEYS +10.4%, IMMR +2.7%, TOL +0.8% higher on earnings; BBAI +28.8% jumps on FAA award; LZB -3.7%, ALC -3.2% lower on earnings.

Nikkei -0.25% Hang Seng -1.06% CSI -0.25% Shanghai -0.37% Shenzen -0.22%

Eur$ 1.1119 CNH 7.1279 CNY 7.1321 JPY 145.70 GBP 1.3027 CHF 0.8542 RUB 91.1501 TRY 33.8968 WTI$ 73.05 -0.20% Gold 2,516 BTC 59,404 ETH 2,593

S&P +0.12% Nasdaq +0.14% EuroStoxx +0.10% FTSE +0.12% Dax +0.06% SMI -0.24%

Macro :
- BNP Sees Fresh Impetus for European Convertible Sales: ECM Watch
- China Auto Industry Group Opposes EU Tariffs on China EVs: CCTV
- Hedge Fund Rotation Out of Mag 7 Stocks Helped Navigate Selloff
- Crowded Bitcoin Derivatives Bets Spur Warning of ‘Short Squeeze’

Keep an eye on :
- ADKO AV : NLB Scraps Plan to Buy Addiko After Offer Misses 75% Threshold
- ADP FP : ADP July Passenger Traffic +4.7%
- ADYEN NA : PayPal Hits Highest in a Year on Adyen Partnership: Street Wrap
- ALC SW : Alcon Posts Higher H1 Net Income, Net Sales
- ASRNL NA : ASR Nederland 1H Solvency II Misses Estimates
- AUSS NO : Austevoll Seafood 2Q Ebitda NOK3.06B Vs. NOK1.44B Y/y
- COTY US : Coty 4Q Adjusted Loss per Share 3.0C, Est. EPS 4.7C
- EQT SS : EQT to Invest in Education Software Company Compass; No Terms
- FERRO SS : Ferroamp Offers 15m Shares via Carnegie Investment Bank
- FGR FP : Eiffage and de Romein Win German Civil Engineering Contract
- GTE US : Gran Tierra Shares Drop on £174.1m Deal for i3 Energy
- GSF NO : Grieg Seafood 2Q Operational Ebit Loss NOK35M
- HEX NO : Hexagon Composites Offering Prices at NOK35.50/Share
- IMPN SW : Implenia 1H Ebit Beats Estimates; Change of CEO in 2025
- JD US : Walmart Said to Seek Up to $3.74 Billion in JD.com Stake Sale
- LSG NO : Leroy 2Q Operational Ebit Misses Estimates
- MOWI NO : Mowi 2Q Operational Ebit per Kilogram Beats Estimates
- NEOEN FP : Mon dieu! France’s Neoen back in front of local bidders
- NHOA FP : TCC Group Raises NHOA Take-Private Offer to €1.25/Share, *NHOA SHARES TRADING SUSPENSION EXTENDED AFTER NEW OFFER TERMS
- RNO FP : Renault Expects ‘Very Long’ Energy Transition in Brazil
- SENS SW : Sensirion Sees FY Revenue CHF250M to CHF280M; CFO to Retire
- SWON SW : SoftwareONE 1H Adj. Ebitda Misses Estimates; Rev. Guidance Down
- STLAP FP : Stellantis CEO to visit US to create plan to reverse lagging profit, source says
- VAR NO : Var Energi Pushes Back Balder X Production Start to 2Q 2025

>>> Europe : Brokers Upgrades & Downgrades - 21st of August 2024

>>> Up
* Demant Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley; PT 320 kroner
* Elementis Raised to Overweight at Barclays; PT 200 pence
* Entain Raised to Buy at CBRE Research; PT 900 pence
* Taaleri Plc Raised to Accumulate at Inderes; PT 9.50 euros
* UCB Raised to Overweight at JPMorgan; PT 200 euros
* Victrex Raised to Hold at Jefferies; PT 1,100 pence
* Voestalpine Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley

>>> Down
* Netum Group Cut to Reduce at Inderes; PT 3.20 euros
* Sonova Cut to Underweight at Morgan Stanley; PT 270 Swiss francs
* Starbucks Cut to Sell at DZ Bank; PT $85

>>> Initiation
* Cavendish Hydrogen Rated New Buy at Fearnley; PT 22 kroner
* Dustin Reinstated Buy at Nordea; PT 14 kronor
* Inwido Rated New Buy at SEB Equities; PT 206 kronor

>>> Call

FT : Walmart disposes of entire stake in Chinese ecommerce giant JD.com

Walmart disposes of entire stake in Chinese ecommerce giant JD.com
US retailer has focused on expanding its stores and Sam’s Club warehouse outlets in the country

Walmart has cut its stake in Chinese ecommerce giant JD.com to zero, as the world’s largest retailer focuses on expanding its own brands in the country.

The US retailer disclosed in a filing to the US Securities and Exchange Commission that it had entirely disposed of its nearly 10 per cent holding in the ecommerce company.

Walmart reported owning 289mn shares of JD.com as of December 31, which would have been worth $4bn at the end of trading in New York on Tuesday.

JD.com separately said it had spent $390mn repurchasing its own shares in a transaction on Wednesday. Hong Kong-listed shares of the group fell by as much as 12 per cent in early trading.

Walmart first acquired a stake in the group in 2016 in exchange for the sale of its Chinese ecommerce site Yihaodian to JD.com. Walmart nearly doubled its holding later that year by continuing to invest in the Chinese group.

The deals spurred growing collaboration between the two retailers, including Walmart and its Sam’s Club unit launching stores on JD.com’s ecommerce platform and a delivery partnership in some Chinese cities. 

But JD.com has faced growing ecommerce competition in China from rising rival Pinduoduo as well as Alibaba. Goldman Sachs analysts estimate that PDD has now displaced JD.com as the second-largest ecommerce company in China.

JD.com increased revenues 1 per cent from a year earlier in the second quarter, bolstering its bottom line by cutting back on the discounts offered to shoppers.

“Walmart invested nearly 10 years ago when JD.com and the ecommerce market were growing really fast,” said Li Chengdong, the head of Chinese tech think-tank Haitun. “The stake allowed them to learn from JD. Now they are doing well on their own in China, so the strategic value of the stake has ended.”

Walmart has increasingly focused on building up its own China business, with its Sam’s Club warehouse outlets gaining popularity among China’s discerning, cost-conscious shoppers.

The US retailer said it would maintain co-operation with JD.com and that the sale “allows us to better focus on the strong development of China, including the operation of Walmart Supercenter and Sam’s Club, and allocate assets to other priorities”.

The company added that it “has achieved success in various markets around the world by adjusting its asset portfolio in a timely manner”.

The group’s China business sales grew 16 per cent to $17bn in its latest financial year ended January 31, though the market contributed to less than 4 per cent of total sales.

Walmart’s share disposal comes after JD.com’s other major partner, Chinese social media group Tencent, distributed nearly all of its 17 per cent stake in the group to shareholders in 2022.

JD.com did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

FT : Poland’s big bet on a new airport

Poland’s big bet on a new airport
After years of debate, new project seen as the next big thing in the country’s economic development

Before it can become central and eastern Europe’s largest transport hub, Poland’s new airport could first test the ability of its feuding politicians to stay the course on a big infrastructure project. 

In late June Prime Minister Donald Tusk approved the Central Communication Port (CPK using its Polish acronym), the plan to build an airport in the heart of Poland near the village of Baranów, alongside a new high-speed rail network linking it to Warsaw 40km away, as well as Łódź and other more distant cities. The key reason to build the CPK is that Warsaw’s main Chopin airport is almost saturated and too close to the Polish capital to permit significant expansion.

The CPK’s promoters see several other benefits, including transforming the farming area around it into a new business region. On a national scale, after two decades during which Poland outpaced the growth of most other EU nations, the CPK is “the next big thing in Polish economic development”, giving the country a state of the art logistics platform to connect with its main trading partners, says Piotr Arak, chief economist at VeloBank. 

Even if not purpose built as a military base, the CPK should also provide Poland’s armed forces with another location from which to respond to Russian aggression. “Having the CPK is absolutely critical as a deterrent,” says Rajmund Andrzejczak, former chief of the general staff of the Polish armed forces.

Still, the CPK has already been debated for more than a decade and Tusk’s coalition is doing a U-turn on a project he denounced during his successful election campaign last year, when he replaced the rightwing Law and Justice (PiS) party in power.

At the time, Tusk called the CPK a “sick idea” of PiS to promote its ultranationalist agenda and a misspend of public money. After taking office in December, one of the Tusk government’s first decisions was to order a full audit of PiS’s draft plan.

However, checking the numbers proved surprisingly problematic. No independent firm tendered for a financial audit that also meant stepping into a political minefield. This left the government to do its own review.


Tusk’s administration now promises to build a bit slower but a bit better than PiS. The airport’s projected capacity has been cut to 34mn passengers a year from the 40mn targeted by PiS, while the CPK budget was slashed to 131bn zlotys (€30.7bn) from 155bn zlotys. The airport should open in 2032 — four years behind the original PiS schedule. 

But while the new airport’s benefits for Poland might appear compelling, there are still reasons to worry about its take-off. First, Tusk’s government is dithering over whether to retain the foreign consortium that PiS selected to help build the CPK last October, which comprises French construction company Vinci and Australia’s IFM Global Infrastructure Fund — the decision was announced only after PiS lost the elections to Tusk’s coalition. Poland’s infrastructure ministry now says that “both scenarios — having a foreign partner in such a venture or going alone — have their advantages as well as drawbacks”.

Since joining the EU in 2004, Poland has built some of Europe’s most modern motorways. Its rail and airport investment record is more patchy, however. A previous Tusk government bought Alstom’s Pendolino fast-trains a decade ago. But these trains continue to travel below their top speeds on most of the network because Poland has since struggled to upgrade its signalling and track infrastructure.

About 100km from Warsaw, Radom’s near-dormant airport also offers a cautionary tale. After Radom’s airport went bankrupt in 2018, PiS decided that building a new terminal and runway could revive the site. They were inaugurated last year, but only between one and three planes are now landing each day in reconstructed Radom.

Still, the government hopes the CPK will turn state airline LOT into a long-haul competitor for Lufthansa and Turkish Airlines, both of which now dwarf LOT. The Polish carrier wants to increase its fleet to not less than 100 by 2026 from around 80 now. But Polish aviation journalist Dominik Sipinski notes that by the time the CPK opens, the new airport may prove too big and arrive too late for the Polish airline to catch up with rivals.

Until then, the CPK will need to survive Poland’s divisive politics. There will be at least two more national elections before 2032, which gives time for whoever is in office to make more changes before cutting the inauguration ribbon. 

FT : Saudi wealth fund brings era of easy money to an end

Saudi wealth fund brings era of easy money to an end
Once considered a cash cow by dealmakers, PIF has slowed spending on global investments, bankers say

For much of the past decade, Saudi Arabia has been a major draw for dealmakers, bankers and asset managers seeking capital as its ambitious sovereign wealth fund went on a multibillion-dollar global spending spree.

But as the kingdom reassesses its priorities and the $925bn Public Investment Fund shifts focus to huge domestic commitments, the era of Saudi Arabia being perceived as a source of easy money is drawing to a close.

“It is ending,” said a senior Dubai-based investment banker. “People are realising it.”

Fund managers, bankers and companies that sought to raise capital in the kingdom are already feeling the effects of the shift.

Money managers say Saudi officials have put many more conditions on mandates, often demanding the hiring of local employees and at least some use of funding for investment in domestic companies and projects.

Others are being told that for Riyadh to commit new funds, it wants to see reinvestment in the kingdom, bankers said.

“It is becoming more of a theme,” an insider at the wealth fund explained.

BlackRock, the US asset manager, did secure $5bn from the PIF to anchor a new investment firm in Riyadh, which it announced in April. But its mandate is focused primarily on developing the kingdom’s capital markets.

The PIF said in a statement to the Financial Times that it had a “robust investment process”, allowing it “to choose partners and advisers who are best suited for each mandate we pursue”.

“Investments made by PIF go through a process of multiple committees and are focused on its key sectors, in accordance with the fund’s mandate and strategy,” it said.

Companies are also no longer beating a path to Riyadh’s door in the hunt for cash at the pace they once were, bankers say.

“Client interest has reduced materially, partly because we are screening more carefully, partly because there’s not been a tremendous amount of success from these efforts and roadshows,” said the Dubai-based banker. “People realise it’s not just about showing up and expecting a cheque.”

It is a marked contrast to the early years of the PIF’s dramatic transformation from a sleeping state holding company with about $150bn in assets under management in 2015 into one of the world’s most active and ambitious sovereign funds.

The overhaul was driven by Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman, who took over as the fund’s chair in 2015, giving it the task of steering Riyadh’s trillion-dollar plans to diversify the economy and project the kingdom on to the global stage.

As it sought to rapidly build up its foreign exposure from virtually zero to its target of 24 per cent of its portfolio, it made waves with a string of high-profile deals, including pumping $45bn into SoftBank’s Vision Fund in 2016 and $20bn into a Blackstone infrastructure fund the following year.

In the years since, it has splashed the cash in a diverse range of sectors from electric-car maker Lucid to its controversial LIV Golf venture, a cruise liner group, mining, sports assets and gaming companies.

It also poured tens of billions into US and European equity markets and injected $2bn into a private equity venture set up by Donald Trump’s son-in-law, Jared Kushner.

The frenzy of activity coincided with tightening liquidity in other parts of the world, marking out Saudi Arabia and other oil-rich Gulf states as go-to sources for funding.

That sentiment grew after Russia’s invasion of Ukraine sent energy prices to multiyear highs, creating a boom in the Gulf and helping Saudi Arabia post a budget surplus in 2022 — its first in almost a decade.

But since then, the kingdom has slashed oil production in a bid to stabilise softening crude prices. That has hit government revenues and returned the budget to a deficit with Riyadh facing massive financial commitments to fund development plans. Deals have also fallen through, bankers say.

“For the last eight years, Saudi Arabia has gone out to the rest of the world with an open hand of money. Now the fist is clenching and pulling back to the country,” said a London-based investment banker. “It’s part of the maturing strategy. They could not have gone on like this forever.”

According to filings at the US Securities and Exchange Commission, the PIF’s traded stocks in the US fell from about $35bn at the end of 2023 to $20.5bn on March 31, before stabilising in the second quarter at $20.6bn.

The PIF sold down its stake in BlackRock, and disposed of its holdings in Carnival, the cruise liner company, and entertainment group Live Nation.

Saudi officials say the kingdom’s ambitions have not changed and there is still significant activity taking place with work continuing on a string of megaprojects. But finance minister Mohammed al-Jadaan told a conference in April that Riyadh would “adjust” as required.

“We’ll extend some of the projects, we’ll downscale some projects, we’ll accelerate some projects,” he said.

An executive at a US-based asset manager added that Prince Mohammed was focused on building infrastructure.

“Saudi has shifted meaningfully to domestic growth projects,” the executive said. “They have a bold ambition of what they want to become.”

Another London-based banker said that with the financing outlook “not as comfortable as they want it to be, they’ve got to make some difficult choices”.

“That’s sensible and they are being slightly more mature, they are not going for broke. But it means it’s less lucrative for bankers,” he said.

“The other aspect is the Saudis are sick to the teeth of being treated just as a cash cow, and they are extremely suspicious of fee chasers. They want people to put skin in the game.”

He added that the shift in pace was a “cyclical issue” in line with falling oil revenues, saying the longer-term attraction of Saudi Arabia is “still pretty strong because they have a lot of catching up to do from a development perspective”.

The PIF insider said the fund was focusing more on strategic investments in contrast to the early years of its transformation when it was “looking to deploy money quickly in certain areas”.

“There is a pause in terms of spending, definitely global investments are not going to be there in a major way over the next two to three years,” said a Saudi executive. There would be exceptions, he explained, particularly in areas deemed to add value to the kingdom, such as manufacturing, artificial intelligence and technology.

“They are verbalising to banks it’s a very discrete moment,” the executive said.

Spending is continuing at home, with the PIF having a goal of investing at least $40bn a year in the kingdom as it oversees a series of megaprojects while developing new industries, including tourism, sports, mining and manufacturing.

Riyadh also has to prepare as the host of a string of international events, including the football Asian Cup in 2027, the Asian Winter Games in 2029 and Expo 2030. In addition, it is the sole bidder for the 2034 Fifa World Cup.

Bankers added that the PIF’s subsidiaries — including new airline Riyadh Air, gaming entity Savvy and mining company Ma’aden — are doing much of the investing themselves as they seek to meet their own targets.

“There’s a lot of activity in the PIF’s portfolio companies, not at the PIF level,” said the Dubai-based banker.

He added that bankers’ “wallets” were going to shift more from investment deals to financing as the government and the PIF raised debt — Riyadh has already raised about $37bn this year.

“It’s not necessarily a change of strategy, it’s an evolution,” he said.

>>> US After Hours Summary: KEYS +10.4%, IMMR +2.7%, TOL +0.8% higher on earning

After Hours Summary: KEYS +10.4%, IMMR +2.7%, TOL +0.8% higher on earnings; BBAI +28.8% jumps on FAA award; LZB -3.7%, ALC -3.2% lower on earnings

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: KEYS +10.4%, IMMR +2.7%, TOL +0.8%, COTY +0.3%

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: BBAI +28.8% (FAA award), MRAM +2.2% (awarded $14.55 mln to provide manufacturing services for aerospace and defense segments), PRIM +1.9% (Premier PV segment reaches over $55 mln in backlog), AGYS +1.8% (acquires Book4Time), DEC +0.7% (stock offering by selling shareholder), DRS +0.6% (awarded production order for $52 mln), OSK +0.6% (awarded $1.54 bln U.S. Army contract), PSN +0.2% (to serve as lead designer on Honolulu rail project with a project value of $1.66 bln), RMAX +0.1% (expands partnership with Inside Real Estate)

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: PAGS -4.1%, JKHY -4%, LZB -3.7%, DDD -3.6%, ALC -3.2%

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: FWONK -2.6% (stock offering), LPSN -2.5% (founder files preliminary proxy statement, nominates two board members), MCHP -1.7% (possible cybersecurity incident), FMC -0.2% (submits regulatory applications in eight countries for Dodhylex active), AMZN -0.2% (Bezos has no plan to bid on Celtics, according to The Info), TPC -0.1% (subcontractor PSN to serve as lead designer on Honolulu rail project with a project value of $1.66 bln)

WWD : Move Over Mona Lisa: Fashion Is Coming to the Louvre

Move Over Mona Lisa: Fashion Is Coming to the Louvre
An exhibition opening in January is to mingle recent fashions with precious objects spanning from the Middle Ages to the Second French Empire.
PARIS — Mad for 18th-century interiors, Karl Lagerfeld frequently visited the Louvre, knew its holdings by heart, and drew inspiration from its sumptuous furniture and lacquered screens.

In January, some of the late German designer’s haute couture and métiers d’art creations for Chanel all that inspired will invade the storied Paris museum, which is mounting its first fashion-focused exhibition, tracing how precious objects from Byzantine times through to the Second French Empire have fueled designers’ imaginations — and continue to do so.

“This is really the first time that the Louvre has decided to create an exhibition about the relationship between fashion and its own collections,” said Olivier Gabet, director of the decorative arts department at the Louvre Museum, revealing the project exclusively to WWD.

The goal is to “really try to understand why museums can be interesting and important for fashion designers and how our collections, especially at the Louvre, can nurture and inspire the collections of fashion designers.”

Slated to run from Jan. 24 to July 21, the exhibition — whose title has yet to be finalized — is to showcase about 65 ensembles and 30 accessories. These will be installed across the 9,700 square feet that showcase the Louvre’s vast decorative arts holdings, which range from suits of armor, ceramics, ivories, tapestries, scientific instruments, jewelry, bronzes, stained glass and silverware to the lavish Napoleon III apartments.
A suit of armor ascribed to Henry IV.
Stéphane Marechalle

Officially created in 1893, the department has amassed a collection of 20,000 objects, a little more than a third of which are on display at any given time.

As it has no fashion holdings, barring some lavish coats from The Order of the Holy Spirit, the Louvre is borrowing looks from an array of fashion designers and houses in France, Italy, the U.K. and the U.S. (France’s national fashion collection belongs to Les Arts Décoratifs, where Gabet was director for nine years before joining the Louvre in 2022.)

For the forthcoming exhibition, Gabet opted to focus on “more recent creation” — from the ’60s through to today — eager to demonstrate how contemporary fashion is often rooted in history, its designers gleaning inspiration for silhouettes, colors and embellishment from artworks and decorative objects.

While the Louvre has a relatively small collection of armor, Gabet noted he could easily mount an entire exhibition exploring how these protective garments, which can echo or exaggerate the body, have influenced numerous designers, including Paco Rabanne, Thierry Mugler and Balenciaga’s Demna, who closed his fall 2023 couture show with a metal Joan of Arc ballgown.

The forthcoming exhibition could bring “a different kind of audience” to look at the museum’s “very historical collections,” which Gabet acknowledged can seem foreign and extraneous, especially to young people.

“I think that fashion design is an excellent bridge between generations and museums — a way to talk about something which is very old in a very fresh, very new and very lively way,” he said in an interview. “I hope it will be another way to look at the collection of the Louvre.”


Gabet, who is curating the display, said he aims to make links between the historical objects and the recent fashion creations immediately obvious, though they reflect varying degrees of inspiration — sometimes almost direct and literal, sometimes more blurred from a busy mood board.

The spirit of the exhibition is to exalt the fact that fashion designers and other creatives who are nourished by museums are often these institutions’ best ambassadors, drawing different perceptions and connections than curators or art historians, Gabet said.

He marveled how designers are drawn to different fields of artistic creation: Erdem Moralıoğlu to period textiles, Jonathan Anderson to ceramics and crafts, Maria Grazia Chiuri to artists during the Italian Renaissance, the late Lee Alexander McQueen to Renaissance tapestries, and Christian Louboutin to ceramics by Wedgwood and Manufacture Nationale de Sèvres, and giltwood furniture, since his father was a cabinetmaker.
An ornate chest of drawers, part of the Louvre’s vast collection of decorative objects.
Thierry Ollivier

All of the fashions and accessories will be sprinkled across the Louvre’s permanent galleries, with interior architect Nathalie Crinière conscripted for the set design. Crinière had collaborated with Gabet on large-scale exhibitions at Les Arts Décoratifs, including the blockbuster Dior one in 2017.

The exhibition will also pay homage to Madame Carven, as she and her husband were major benefactors of the Louvre, donating an important collection of 18th-century furniture and decorative objects. “So it will be different layers of relationships,” Gabet said.

Participants are to range from Dolce & Gabbana and Yohji Yamamoto “to perhaps some surprise with younger fashion designers,” he teased.

“We need to be very open minded in the way we propose dialogues between fashion and art,” Gabet said.

Indeed, the display is to address questions about “the silhouette and the body,” the question of history and inspiration, fashion’s connection to craft, and its mixing of elements from all over the world.

The forthcoming exhibition further fans an emerging trend for art museums to incorporate fashion. To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the house of Yves Saint Laurent in 2022, the late couturier’s creations went on display at six major Paris museums alongside some of the artworks that inspired them.

Fashion exhibitions also showcase more than dresses these days, exemplified by the recent Iris Van Herpen retrospective at Les Arts Décoratifs that incorporated fossils, skeletons, avant-garde artworks, microscopes and various tools and installations.

Gabet said the project at the Louvre will be unique given the depth of the collection, spanning more than a dozen centuries, and given that the exhibition is not monographic, featuring the work of about 40 designers.

He also stressed that the Louvre exhibition starts from its collection and draws links to fashion, not the other way around.

“Today, I think that fashion is even more interesting when it is shown in connection with other fields,” he said. “When you talk to a designer, of course they talk about fashion, but they also talk about art, they talk about craft, they talk about photography. It’s a big shift right now in the way fashion looks at itself — in relation to other fields of creation.”

In this vein of new perspectives, Gabet decided to tap the Louvre’s brain trust in various fields of expertise to write essays in the exhibition catalogue.

“I think it’s interesting for once to ask art historians and museum curators to share their feelings about fashion,” he said.
A reliquary bust from the Louvre Museum.
Philippe Fuzeau