NYT : Everyone Wants to Tax A.I. The Big Disagreement: How?

Everyone Wants to Tax A.I. The Big Disagreement: How?
Bernie Sanders, President Trump and even A.I. companies say they would like the public to share the wealth. But their solutions are very different.

Artificial intelligence is making some people rich and others feel left out. Unsurprisingly, then, proposals to tax A.I. for the benefit of the public are multiplying like the fingers on an A.I.-generated hand. Some make sense. Others, not so much.

Giant initial public offerings have intensified interest in the tax proposals. Trading began this week in SpaceX — now merged with Elon Musk’s xAI — which went public at a valuation of $1.77 trillion. Anthropic filed confidentially for its own I.P.O. on June 1, days after a funding round valued it at $900 billion before the inclusion of new capital. OpenAI, which filed confidentially on June 8, was valued at $730 billion after a funding round this year.

Investors in artificial intelligence are paying a lot for shares because they envision a world in which A.I. systems take over more and more of the work that people do today. If that happens, though, federal taxes on wages and salaries could dry up along with jobs. That’s an existential threat to the government — and by extension, to nonbillionaire taxpayers.

One idea is for ordinary citizens to become participants in the A.I. boom. President Trump said Wednesday he plans to meet with tech executives to discuss their “giving something back to the public,” without specifying how that might happen. “If we do that, the public will become very rich,” he promised.

Senator Bernie Sanders, independent of Vermont, is going further, planning to introduce a bill imposing a one-time tax on leading A.I. companies that would give the public half of their shares, to be placed in a sovereign wealth fund modeled on Alaska’s, which collects oil dividends.

Trouble is, the objectives of the various tax proposals aren’t always clear. If the main concern is that A.I. development is moving too fast, for example, the Sanders and Trump plans are not obviously fit for purpose. They would give the federal government a strong financial interest in promoting the growth of A.I. companies, because it would own a big stake in them.

“What is the goal here? In almost all of these discussions, that’s what it comes down to,” said Lee Lockwood, a University of Virginia economist who has pivoted from studying public finance to working on the policy challenges of advanced A.I.

With that in mind, here are the main ideas on the table.

Take partial ownership of A.I. companies
Sanders proposed the government take a stake in A.I. companies after seeing an article on it by a pair of law professors, Jeremy Bearer-Friend and Sarah Polcz, who have been presenting the concept at conferences for a couple of years. In Britain, a similar plan was floated by Liam Epstein of the University of Cambridge. OpenAI itself proposed a plan in April that would involve the government taking some ownership in A.I. companies, as well as “the broader set of firms adopting and deploying A.I.”

Although Sanders is miles apart from Trump politically, the two politicians are alike in their desire for big government stakes in corporate America. Since Trump’s second term began, the government has taken stakes in more than 20 companies, including Intel, U.S. Steel, Westinghouse, and MP Materials, which mines rare earth minerals.

Trump has been vague so far about how the government would acquire shares in A.I. companies. Sanders has been clear: He wants to get the company shares for free, through a tax. A.I. companies built their knowledge bases from “all our collective knowledge and writing” and the tax is a way for the public to be rewarded for its contributions, Polcz said.

The skeptics’ take: Owning stakes in A.I. companies, whether through taxation or purchase, wouldn’t solve every problem. On one hand, it would allow “the public interest to be weighed” in decision-making, Bearer-Friend and Polcz wrote in The Hill. But in the same piece, they said their proposal “aligns the Treasury with investors who have a stake in preserving the value of their shares.” How are the fund managers supposed to vote when the interests of investors and the public diverge?

Taking a stake in A.I. isn’t going to prevent it from inventing a superbug or setting off a nuclear war. Regulation and supervision are more likely to succeed in that difficult task.

Tax the use of A.I.
A tax on tokens — the units of A.I. processing — would raise money. It would also at least slightly discourage the use of A.I. by making it more expensive. Customers are already complaining that it costs too much, “a huge issue,” OpenAI’s chief executive, Sam Altman, said this month.

Representative Greg Casar, Democrat of Texas and chair of the Congressional Progressive Caucus, calls that drag on A.I. “a feature as much as a bug.” In an essay for The American Prospect, he wrote, “In the long run, an economy with high-wage jobs for more Americans is better for all of us, and in the short run, if we delay layoffs and give workers more time to adapt to a changing economy, that is a good thing.”

Senator Elizabeth Warren, Democrat of Massachusetts, has pushed a levy on energy consumed by data centers. Andrew Yang, the former presidential candidate and Forward Party co-chair, says the government should tax A.I. agents instead of labor.

Some prominent economists sympathize with those politicians in principle, if not the precise implementation. Daron Acemoglu and Simon Johnson, who shared a Nobel in economics in 2024 with James Robinson, wrote in an International Monetary Fund publication the year before that labor is taxed more heavily than automation, discouraging hiring. They said the rates should be equalized.

The skeptics’ take: Economists such as Virginia’s Lockwood tend to say that if you’re going to tax the use of A.I., it’s cleaner to tax it as a final product, not when it’s being used as an input in some company’s production process. So, yes to a tax on somebody using ChatGPT to write a love letter, but no to a tax on somebody using it to build an advertising campaign.

The logic is that it’s economically inefficient to discourage businesses’ use of A.I. It’s more efficient to let them use as much it as they need to maximize their profits, and then tax those profits.

Tax capital broadly
Among economists, the conventional wisdom is that capital and labor need each other. Taxing machines, computers, software and so on hurts workers by depriving them of the tools they need to become more productive and earn more money, the logic goes. But the economist Philip Trammell and the tech podcaster Dwarkesh Patel argued on Substack in December that “a world of advanced robotics and A.I.,” which is coming soon, undermines that conventional wisdom.

They argued that “a global and highly progressive tax on capital (or at least capital income) will then indeed be essentially the only way to prevent inequality from growing extreme.” A tax on capital amounts to a tax on robots, along with all the other machines, buildings and software that companies use.

The skeptics’ take: Brian Albrecht, the chief economist at the International Center for Law & Economics, fired back on Substack earlier this year that economists’ conventional wisdom remains correct as long as the robots haven’t completely taken over. “A compute tax is a REALLY dumb idea,” he headlined a follow-up piece this month.

Tax consumption
If taxing capital isn’t a great idea, and if taxes on labor income dry up because A.I. kills jobs, what’s left? The natural alternative is to tax what people consume.

The United States is actually partway to such a system already. Some of the income that people earn is consumed and some is saved. Because there are big deductions for savings, the federal government is effectively taxing the other part, consumption, more heavily. The next step would be a value-added tax, which almost every other rich country already has. Instead of carving out exceptions for savings, it just taxes consumption outright.

The skeptics’ take: This presumes that A.I. is generating so much value that people consume more than ever while working less than ever. That’s a reasonable presumption for the medium term, but maybe not forever.

A sci-fi scenario
So far we’ve been assuming that A.I. is working in the service of humanity, helping produce more and more goods and services that people need.

What will happen if it starts to invest in itself for its own purposes? The A.I. infrastructure will get more and more massive, but human consumption won’t rise as fast. Korinek and Lockwood argue that, in that case, taxing capital really would make sense.

When Korinek and Lockwood presented their sci-fi scenario at a conference last year, Matthew Weinzierl of Harvard Business School expressed doubt over whether such a powerful A.I. system would even submit to human authority.

Lockwood acknowledged the problem in an interview this week: “An absolutely superhuman intelligence that no one essentially owns or controls, in what sense are we even able to tax them?” he said. “It seems like a far-out thing.”

The skeptics’ take: If we lose control of the A.I., tax policy may be the least of our problems.

>>> Barron’s Weekend Summary

Cover Story:
-Nestlé's Nespresso plant features innovative machines that infuse flavors into coffee capsules, producing over 1,000 pods per minute. As part of employee induction, all Nestlé staff tour one of the company's 335 factories. Recently, Nestlé has faced significant challenges, including a 41% drop in stock since 2022 due to poor sales and leadership instability, culminating in the hiring of a third CEO in 13 months. CEO Philipp Navratil aims to restructure the company, focusing on core products like coffee pods, pet food, and chocolate bars to regain market share. A recent incident involving the theft of 12 metric tons of KitKats highlighted Nestlé's resilience in leveraging unexpected situations for brand promotion.

CEO Interview:
Ryan Cohen, co-founder of Chewy and CEO of GameStop, plans to take his company's rejected offer to buy eBay directly to its shareholders, emphasizing that the offer is credible and beneficial for shareholders. Following a profitable quarter, GameStop has transitioned from a meme-driven retailer to a strong competitor in the collectibles market, particularly trading cards, which overlaps with eBay's business. Cohen views GameStop's physical stores as complementary to eBay's online presence and claims that he wants to acquire eBay for long-term growth, criticizing its management. In a recent interview, Cohen detailed GameStop's strong performance in collectibles and refurbished tech, asserting that his expertise in e-commerce aligns well with eBay's operations.

Tech Trader:
-Oracle's recent earnings report, part of the broader tech earnings season, underscores investor concerns about the software industry's future in the age of artificial intelligence (AI). Following the report, Oracle's shares dropped 8.5%, reflecting ongoing skepticism. The software sector has faced negativity since last fall, with fears that customers might develop custom software using AI and that AI agents could disrupt traditional user-based pricing models. Despite some previous recovery, software ETFs, including Oracle, showed weakness, struggling to meet Wall Street's modest expectations as overall sales rose only 2%. Investors now favor AI leaders in data and cybersecurity, highlighting the need for software companies to adapt or risk obsolescence. Notably, Adobe's announcement of its CFO's departure to Marvell Technology—a company focused on AI data center chips—further emphasizes this shift in focus toward infrastructure over traditional software.

The Trader:
-Artificial intelligence stocks have seen significant gains this year, leading to volatility in the market, particularly for tech stocks. The Nasdaq Composite fell 2% recently, reflecting investor concerns about high valuations in light of persistent inflation and geopolitical issues. As a result, investors are reevaluating their expectations for future earnings, especially with interest rates potentially remaining elevated. Quanta Services, benefiting from the AI boom, has seen its shares increase approximately 50% since last fall, driven by rising energy needs from AI developments and a robust $48.5 B backlog. Major tech firms are expected to invest heavily in AI, further heightening electricity demand and supporting Quanta's growth prospects.
-The SpaceX IPO, the largest in history, recently began trading but had little immediate impact on the stock market, with key indices like the S&P 500 rising 0.7% during the week. Its significance may extend beyond the event, potentially signifying investor sentiment towards riskier assets and influencing the tech sector, which has been the backbone of the bull market driven by artificial intelligence. Upcoming IPOs from companies like Anthropic and OpenAI will also be crucial for gauging the market's appetite for innovation. SpaceX's entry into the Nasdaq-100 could further affect tech stocks, which constitute a significant portion of the S&P 500. Therefore, dismissing SpaceX’s IPO could overlook its broader implications for market trends.

Features:
-Baron Capital, a major holder of SpaceX stock, recently increased the estimated value of this stake just ahead of the anticipated IPO pricing on Thursday. The $17 B Baron Partners fund and the $3.7 B Baron Asset fund saw gains of nearly 7% and 8% respectively on that day, with significant portions of their assets (30% and 23% respectively) invested in SpaceX. The firms increased their SpaceX stock value in line with the upcoming IPO price of $135, reflecting a more than 25% rise from the March 31 valuation of $105 per share. Despite these gains, both funds underperformed against the S&P 500, which has risen approximately 9% this year. Founder Ron Baron highlighted a substantial investment of $2 B in SpaceX since 2017, resulting in profits of $12 to $13 B.
-Investors often repeat past behaviors, and a promising opportunity is emerging with Honeywell International's impending split in 2026, likened to General Electric's breakup in 2024, which generated significant returns. Honeywell plans to form two companies focused on aerospace and automation, both expected to have higher valuations than the current Honeywell stock, potentially reaching $290 per share, a 40% increase from $205.88. Jim Osman describes this separation as a 'clarity trade' rather than a distressed breakup. The split will take effect on June 29, with Honeywell Aerospace trading as HONA. Investors might consider buying now to benefit from owning two stocks, mirroring GE's experience where its aerospace division significantly outperformed expectations. Honeywell's aerospace segment is a key asset, producing critical aircraft components and widely utilized power systems.

European Trader:
-Nuvalent's stock surged 39% to $122.90 after GSK announced its plans to acquire the cancer-drug developer for $10.6 B, offering $124 per share, a 40% premium. GSK's American depositary receipts remained flat at $50.65. This acquisition marks GSK's largest in eight years, aiming to enhance its cancer drug pipeline after previously swapping its oncology business for Novartis' vaccines division in 2014. The deal may concern GSK shareholders.

Emerging Markets:
-Amazon is establishing a satellite ground station in Kenya, marking its entry into the competition against SpaceX’s Starlink. Starlink, which has over 10,000 satellites and more than 10 M subscribers, generated $3.3 B in revenue in Q1 2026. While Amazon currently has around 330 satellites in orbit, it relies on partners like SpaceX and Blue Origin for launches. Despite setbacks at Blue Origin, Amazon aims to progress in the space broadband market, although competing with SpaceX remains challenging. Recent stock movements reflected the broader market's fluctuations.

Commodities:
-The ongoing Iran war is impacting global supply chains, particularly in critical commodities like oil, helium, lithium, and ammonia. As a result, the chip sector is experiencing a sell-off, affecting stock market indices. In the wake of these disruptions, a new wave of green technology start-ups is emerging, striving to provide alternative sources for these vital commodities. This shift reflects investors' increasing interest in sustainable solutions amid geopolitical tensions.

Streetwise:
-No update

WWD : Bernard Arnault Pays Tribute to David Hockney

Bernard Arnault Pays Tribute to David Hockney
The British artist, who died Thursday at age 88, was given a retrospective at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in 2025.

HOCKNEY HOMAGE: One of David Hockney’s last mega-projects was a sprawling retrospective at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris last year.

The British artist, who died on Thursday at age 88, attended opening festivities for the exhibition, his largest ever. It spanned more than 400 works from 1995 to 2025 across a variety of mediums. It ran from April 9 to Aug. 2, 2025.

“Throughout his long pictorial quest, David Hockney never ceased to explore the representation of nature’s infinite variations and the new possibilities of digital tools,” Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, said in a statement shared with WWD on Saturday.

“David Hockney’s passing, which deeply saddens me, is an irreplaceable loss for the art world,” Arnault added. “His free and luminous vision profoundly marked our era and attracted nearly 1 million visitors to the Fondation Louis Vuitton. I extend my deepest condolences to the loved ones of this immense artist.”

According to the David Hockney Foundation, the artist continued painting “with vigor” after returning from the Fondation Louis Vuitton show, and mounted two new shows in London. One was at Annely Juda Fine Art, and the other is taking place at the Serpentine Galleries in Hyde Park.

“A Year in Normandie and Some Other Thoughts About Painting” opened in March and runs until Aug. 23.

It features a series of new paintings, including portraits of Hockney’s family and carers and the monumental frieze “A Year in Normandie (2020-2021),” on view in London for the first time. The frieze extends across the perimeter gallery of Serpentine North, charting the change of seasons at the artist’s former studio in Normandy, France.

“These shows revealed the most developed stage yet of Hockney’s exploration of ‘reverse perspective’ as a pictorial device,” according to the foundation, noting that future exhibitions at the Tate in London and the Munch Museum in Oslo are in development.

Among Hockney’s most celebrated paintings is “Mr and Mrs Clark and Percy,” a double portrait depicting fashion designer Ossie Clark and textile designer Celia Birtwell, and a white cat, shortly after their wedding.

It was included in the Fondation Louis Vuitton show, which concentrated mainly on landscape works, realized in Yorkshire, London and Normandy, France.

Hockney is survived by his longtime partner and companion Jean-Pierre Gonçalves de Lima, his great-nephew Richard, his brothers Philip and John, and numerous nieces, nephews, great-nieces and great-nephews, according to the foundation.

WWD : Elle Macpherson Knows Her Cashmere

Elle Macpherson Knows Her Cashmere
The model and wellness entrepreneur has done a capsule collection for Linnea Lund, one of her go-to brands in Paris.

Elle Macpherson pretty much lives in cashmere, and is quite particular about the colors, fit, details and quality.

And so when one of her beloved go-to brands, Linnea Lund, proposed a collaboration, she knew immediately what to propose.

“I said, ‘You know what? I think you need a bomber. Nobody does a cashmere bomber,'” Macpherson related on Thursday morning in Paris, wearing one in camel — the centerpiece of her capsule collection, which drops Sept. 1.

“I wanted to create something that I didn’t see on the market. That’s always been my vibe,” she said.

The compact collection includes a reversible sweatshirt with piping for 695 euros and a triangular scarf for 225 euros. The bomber, which boasts more than a kilogram of cashmere and thoughtful engineering in the construction and cuffs, goes for 1,495 euros.

For the launch event, Charlotte Björklund, founder of the “conscious cashmere” label, laid out an Instagram-worthy breakfast table outside her compact shop on the picturesque Place von Furstenberg, whipping up Swedish cardamom cakes with eggs from her family’s farm, and laying out platters of mini cinnamon buns, cookies and fruits.

Macpherson mingled with editors and gamely posed for photos in front of the store, which displayed her exact outfit, although with a different pair of white jeans that the Australian model and wellness entrepreneur immediately coveted.

“She’s definitely a muse and inspiration,” Björklund said of Macpherson. “I’m someone that’s much more classic. What I really love about Elle is she’s much more active. She has this way of breaking down the clothes, and dressing them up in a very nice bohemian-chic way. It’s just beautiful on her.”

Forever in Birkenstocks — or The Row’s luxe version of them, as was the case Thursday — Macpherson said the cashmere specialist came onto her radar thanks to Mathilde Favier, a Dior PR director who directed the model to Linnea Lund a few years ago when she needed socks to complete her outfit to attend a fashion show.

She’s been a devotee ever since, striking up a friendship with Björklund, who worked with trend forecaster Li Edelkoort and as an independent fashion consultant before founding Linnea Lund in 2019.

“I love supporting small businesses and women-owned and -founded businesses, and this is a love project,” Macpherson enthused. “It’s a passion project, and it’s very authentic.”

For the bomber jacket, the model based the silhouette on a favorite vintage style from the ’70s. Beyond that, she sought a “cool, effortless quality” to the capsule — and superb finishing.

“I love Italian-made cashmere. It stands the test of time. It doesn’t pill,” she said. “There’s nothing worse than a cashmere that looks great for the first few years, and then it starts to lose its shape.”

Born in Australia, Macpherson now lives in Florida, but travels frequently — and lightly. “I want to take a few sweaters that I trust, and that’s why the reversible sweatshirt is so great. It’s like you get two,” she said. Meanwhile, the zippered bomber jacket “goes with everything. You can dress it up at night with great jewelry, or it can be just with a T-shirt underneath.”

Also this week, Macpherson, 62, is releasing Longevity Elixir, the latest addition to her pioneering wellness brand Welleco, founded in 2014.

Björklund said collaborations with famous women like Macpherson give a boost of attention and urgency to her fledgling brand, which operates two stores in Paris, a shop-in-shop at Le Bon Marché, and wholesales to about two dozen stores, mostly in Europe and Japan, with the U.S. her next priority.

Last year, Linnea Lund debuted a collaboration with model Inès de la Fressange on “the perfect navy crewneck” and it has another project lined up with makeup maven Gucci Westman for later in the year, Björklund noted.

WWD : The Challenges of Reviving Barneys New York

The Challenges of Reviving Barneys New York
Gene Pressman, Mickey Drexler and others ruminate on what it would take to recreate Barneys New York and whether it's really a viable idea.

Barneys New York ranks as one of retail’s greatest makeovers — transforming from a menswear discounter in the ’60s into a chic and irreverent enclave for luxury fashion.

The retailer largely faded from view after the 2019 liquidation that saw Authentic Brands Group pick up the intellectual property.

But now, a new crew is striving to rework some of that Barneys magic.

One Lux Solution will be opening a Barneys New York in Naples, Fla., later this year, at the Bayfront. Authentic has given One Lux, which has been raising money, the exclusive rights to roll out Barneys in Florida.

Authentic has also been in discussions with the landlord of the former Barneys flagship building on Madison Avenue over possibly reviving Barneys with a new lease, but that would most likely need to be with a different operator than One Lux. Another possibility is bringing Barneys back to its original Seventh Avenue and 17th Street site in Manhattan, which is available.

The next iteration will have a lot of fashion history to live up to.

Barneys was the first U.S. retailer to sell Azzedine Alaïa, Christian Louboutin, Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake and Dries Van Noten. Stylish Giorgio Armani men’s suits were brought to America by Barneys in the ’70s at a time when Wall Street was hooked on Brooks Brothers.

The retailer rebranded as Barneys New York in the early ’80s, reflecting the upscaling effort. A women’s annex was added to the Chelsea location by taking over a series of townhouses, and the nine-level, 230,000-square-foot flagship on Madison Avenue opened in 1993.

“The secret of Barneys was that it never stood still. It continually morphed,” said Gene Pressman, former co-CEO of Barneys New York, and grandson of Barney Pressman, the founder of the store. “It launched new concepts — the Chelsea Passage, the restaurants. It continually led the way and was never satisfied being what it was. My motto was, never give the customer what they want. They don’t know what they want. You have to show them.”

While Barneys became an industry icon, a combination of over-expansion, high rents, ownership changes, two bankruptcies, and a failure by latter-day management to heal the wounds, led to its total shutdown in 2020.

But clearly people have had Barneys on the brain. Pressman also rekindled memories of the store with his book, “They All Came to Barneys: A Personal History of the World’s Greatest Store,” published in September.

Saks Global was licensed to operate Barneys and had a “Barneys at Saks” floor at the Fifth Avenue flagship and a Barneys shop in Greenwich, Conn., until Saks’ bankruptcy this year, ending the license and forcing the stores to remove the Barneys signs.

“I find the idea of wanting to bring Barneys back titillating,” said Ken Downing, chief creative director at Xcel Brands. “I always shopped the Chelsea Passage home area. I was a huge fan of the Henry Beguelin leather bags and bowls and Jonathan Adler. Barneys always had interesting things like that. We all have fond memories of Barneys. But if everybody actually shopped Barneys the way they talked about shopping at Barneys, there would still be a Barneys today.”

When he served as senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus, and Barneys still operated stores, “I would often say to designers, if you want to sell clothes, come to Neiman Marcus. If you want to have your clothes hanging in a store, go to Barneys, because it was always a bit like a museum.”

By many accounts, reviving Barneys New York requires a merchant leader who can do justice to the legacy; building a talented creative team, and specifically on Madison Avenue, the willingness to meet the high costs of a luxury retail start-up. It wouldn’t necessarily need to precisely replicate Barneys of the past, but it would have to be unique, compelling, and filled with new experiences beyond designer appearances.

“The most important thing would be to find a merchant with the ability to execute a clear vision for Barneys — someone who knows how to execute that vision and can hire the right team members,” said Millard “Mickey” Drexler, chairman of Alex Mill, former CEO of Gap Inc. and J.Crew Group and founder of Old Navy and the renewed Madewell. “It could be worth it, bringing Barneys back, if they could find the right leadership. Barneys is a well-known, worldwide name which could make finding what it needs easier and less complicated.”

Asked if it’s worth it to revive Barneys, veteran luxury retailer Neal Fox said: “The answer is ‘yes,’ assuming they have merchants to run it. Where is a young Gene Pressman? Unfortunately, at big-box retailers there are no merchants anymore. They have become so [expansion] driven. Nobody learns anything about product anymore. What Fred Pressman did with Armani and what Gene Pressman did with Alaïa showed they understood the brilliance there. With e-commerce and brands opening stores, it’s much more difficult for any new player to succeed. But one thing I am positive about — there is a demand for a different brick-and-mortar experience with superior service run by professionals who know product. No doubt about it. People are hungry for it, especially younger people who have grown up doing all their shopping on e-com.”

Others wonder whether a revival of the uptown flagship is practicable.

Antony Karabus of Karabus Retail Advisory doubted whether the landlord of the Madison Avenue site or Authentic Brands Group would seriously consider bringing back Barneys on Madison.

“Given how ABG has grown so dramatically, they’ve got many other bigger opportunities to make significant more money,” Karabus said. “Designer brands have been opening stores at a rapid pace and are probably in almost every luxury or affluent area in the U.S. including building large stores on Fifth and Madison Avenues. And that whole generation that shopped Barneys when it was at its peak is gone. I just don’t see the opportunity.”

Downing added: “Retail is an expensive undertaking. There’s the costs of a physical plant and filling it with inventory and putting together a strategic, visionary team to make Barneys what Barneys needs to be today. With a Madison Avenue flagship alone, would the scale be there, to do the amount of business needed to keep the lights on and afford the overhead? To start a retailer of that level from the ground up again, the expense is almost prohibitive…We all loved Barneys because it was so niche. But the downfall of Barneys was that it was so niche.”

“The other thing to remember is, there’s an entire generation that has lived without Barneys and it’s not part of their fashion vocabulary.”

And Pressman added: “Could an entity called Barneys exist in the future — the answer is ‘yes.’ The consumer is dying for this, but there are major parameters. Who would lead it? It has to have a true merchant, a team of both experienced merchants and young merchants.

“There is not a lot of opportunity for as many young designers as there was once and designer prices are so high. Basically three [entities] own the whole industry,” Pressman said, referring to LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, Kering SA, and Compagnie Financière Richemont SA.

He said that if Barneys is rebuilt, such as on Madison, it should be large, offering more than fashion. “It has to be a store [centered] around entertainment. It has to create theatrics. Fashion should represent maybe 50 percent. Obviously, food should play a big part of it and so should other things,” Pressman said, without specifying what a reconstituted Barneys should have. “It has to be a new Barneys that can really represent now and the future. It has to take a lead. The good news is that the internet, with the exception of Amazon which makes money, hasn’t worked. Other big companies that are doing several hundred million dollars online are losing money there. It’s hard to get people to go to your site. People want to enjoy the experience of shopping, getting that cool vibe, and socializing. Could a Barneys happen again — yes — but it would have to be a large situation run by really talented skillful merchants and a visionary.”

Regarding rebuilding Barneys on Madison Avenue, Pressman said, “Nobody is going to make that kind of investment, unless they own the property or maybe if it was 100-year lease, with a reasonable percentage sales.”

The nine-level 220,000-square-foot flagship site, at 660 Madison Avenue, has remained vacant since the store closed, except for some temporary uses including the Winter Show for antiques in 2022 and the Louis Vuitton “200 Trunks, 200 Visionaries” exhibit later that year. There was also a “Sex in the City” reunion at the space, among other events.
WWD previously reported, based on information from sources, that Jamie Salter communicated with the key owner of the Madison Avenue property, real estate investor Ashkenazy Acquisition Corp., to lease the site, and reportedly offered a deal involving a percentage of sales, but the source said Ashkenazy balked at the offer.

A revived Barneys “has to be a long-term thing,” Pressman said. “If there was a Mr. Moneybags who believed in it and had a long-term view, if you had patience, if you took a long-term view, it could work.”

WWD : Luxury Clients Are Seeking Meaningful Moments and Validation from the ‘Rig

Luxury Clients Are Seeking Meaningful Moments and Validation from the ‘Right’ People
A new report says high-end consumers are getting pickier when it comes to how they spend their time, money and energy, and the shift will have big implications for luxury brands.

LONDON — Top-end luxury customers can have it all — but now they want more.

According to new research by Team One, there has been a fundamental shift in how “affluents” define a life well-lived. They’re prioritizing friendships over status, and seeking genuine connections. The shift is forcing some brands to re-think their marketing approach.

Team One said the findings in its 2026 Global Affluent Collective report, “The Belonging Correction,” reveal “a widening disconnect between opportunities for connection and true feelings of belonging.” The report draws on 16 years of proprietary research and a study of 4,334 respondents across 18 countries.

According to the report, some 51 percent of global affluents now “prioritize friendship over status, favor smaller, more intentional friendship circles, and put a growing premium on genuine connection.”

“Affluents overvalued being seen. They’ve corrected toward being understood,” said Mark Miller, chief strategy officer at Team One, a media and communications agency belonging to Publicis Groupe.

Miller added that many luxury brands have not kept up, “and are still speaking to a version of success their audience has already outgrown. What [customers] need isn’t another new room to enter. It’s support. It’s tools that help them build trust, deepen relationships, and show up in the moments that actually matter. The brief isn’t about access alone anymore. It’s about affinity.”

According to the research, 81 percent of those interviewed said social success means being accepted for who they are, not how they’re seen. Some 92 percent said they seek validation from the “right” people, not the “most” people. Eighty percent said they build belonging through shared time and interests, rather than exclusive access.

Tahni Candelaria, director of cultural anthropology at Team One, said in an interview: “We are living through a very particular time in which people are experiencing what we would call ‘connection inflation.’ This describes the phenomenon in which technology has made connection abundant and frictionless — so there are more rooms to enter, more touch points, more circles to be part of, more ‘ways in’ than ever before.”

She added that abundance doesn’t automatically translate into belonging. “In fact, it often creates social disorientation, especially for affluent audiences, because by virtue of their resources, they have unprecedented access to places and spaces of connection or belonging.”

The question luxury customers are asking has changed from “Can I get in here?” to “Which room is actually mine?” and “Which circles do I actually want to belong to?” according to Candelaria.

She said today’s affluent customers are defining belonging “by resonance and depth, and being understood by the people whose opinion actually carries weight in your life. The definition of belonging itself has shifted: from being seen widely to being known precisely.”

The new report, she added, “isn’t asking brands to be louder, it is asking them to be useful and to build relationships that feel real. In a category long built on ‘more access,’ growth will come from enabling deeper, more meaningful forms of connection rooted in real belonging.”

In an interview, Miller said that brands should work to understand customers’ more nuanced needs.

He pointed to last year’s launch of Dior’s Diorexquis high jewelry collection at Château de La Colle Noire, the restored home of designer Christian Dior. “The event felt much more like a small, intimate gathering of friends away from the usual spotlight. It was an event where people felt more like close connections (family) than props,” he said.

He also said Miu Miu’s choice to put Dr. Qin Huilan, a retired surgeon and brand fan, on the Paris runway in 2024 was another example of treating customers like friends. “The key wasn’t just giving her VIP access to the event, but shining a light on her and her story. It proves that being an insider means you do not just belong to the brand; the brand also belongs to you,” he said.

Candelaria pointed to a few examples of brands “hosting” people, and offering personalized moments.

She said that one of the panelists interviewed for the report recounted a night hosted by Amex for Platinum members at a restaurant in San Francisco. The person was able to bring seven of her friends along to the dinner. “It landed as genuine, which is why it built affinity: the brand was letting the relationship be the point” of the evening, said Candelaria.

She said that another panelist recalled a night hosted by Grey Goose, where bartenders improvised drinks around her preferences and sent her home with martini accessories. “It built affinity because she didn’t feel sold to, she felt hosted,” said Candelaria.

TechCrunch : OpenAI faces investigation from state attorneys general

OpenAI faces investigation from state attorneys general

A coalition of state attorneys general has opened an investigation into OpenAI.

The company was served with a subpoena from New York’s attorney general on Friday, according to The Wall Street Journal. That subpoena sought documents related to a broad range of topics including the company’s advertising, user engagement and retention, model sycophancy, handling of consumer data and health data, and treatment of minors and seniors.

“AI is a new and powerful technology, and we work every day to safely bring its benefits to people in a responsible way,” an OpenAI spokesperson said in a statement. “We take the concerns raised by state attorneys general seriously and intend to engage constructively with their offices.”

The spokesperson also said, “Today’s ChatGPT includes a more protective experience for minors and people experiencing difficult situations, with safeguards that direct them to real-world resources and trusted human contacts. We believe kids should be treated like kids, which is why we built age prediction, released parental tools to guide their children’s use of AI, and disallowed advertising that targets kids.”

The company did not specify which states are involved in the investigation or share more details about what information was requested. TechCrunch has also reached out to New York attorney general’s office for confirmation.

OpenAI recently defeated its co-founder Elon Musk in a high-profile trial, after Musk accused the company of violating its founding agreement. (Musk’s lead attorney said he will appeal the decision.)

However, OpenAI still faces lawsuits over everything from alleged copyright infringement to ChatGPT’s alleged role in user suicides. Earlier this month, Florida Attorney General James Uthmeier sued OpenAI and its CEO Sam Altman, claiming that OpenAI and Altman “ignored internal and external safety warnings, put children at great risk, and allowed a dangerous product to reach millions of Floridians.”

Altman recently apologized to the community of Tumbler Ridge, Canada after a mass shooting; he acknowledged that OpenAI failed to alert law enforcement after the company flagged and banned the suspected shooter’s ChatGPT account.

The company announced this week that it has filed confidentially to go public.

The Information : Longevity Startups Have a Conundrum: Can They Sell Longevity D

Longevity Startups Have a Conundrum: Can They Sell Longevity Drugs?
The companies are engaged in a holy grail pursuit to reverse aging. For now, their plans are much more prosaic.

In many ways, these are the best of times for Silicon Valley’s buzziest crop of longevity startups and their pursuit of drugs that can reverse aging.

NewLimit, a cell reprogramming company co-founded in 2022 by Coinbase CEO Brian Armstrong, announced earlier this month that it had raised another $435 million and plans to start testing a drug in humans next year. In all, it has collected over $630 million in funding.

Retro Biosciences, a startup launched in 2022 with $180 million from OpenAI’s Sam Altman, announced last month it too has raised more money and now has a $1.8 billion valuation. Retro, which is trying to restore cells and their activities that decline with aging, started testing its first drug in people last year.

Life Biosciences, a cell reprogramming company founded in 2017 whose investors include Joe Lonsdale’s 8VC, raised $80 million earlier this year, enough to complete the early phase of a clinical trial for its first drug. The company said this week it has dosed its first patient.

And yet despite these milestones, when I asked the CEOs of these companies if they are running trials for longevity drugs, each of them responded: Not yet.

In reality, these longevity startups face a delicate balancing act when talking about longevity drugs. On the one hand, investors and future customers are enticed by the idea that a drug might one day restore all the cells in their body to their former youthful glory. And yet, there’s also no getting around the stigma still attached to the word “longevity,” which is often accompanied by talk of living to 150 and has attracted influencers selling an array of unproven but supposedly life-extending products.

Even more challenging, the Food and Drug Administration does not consider aging a disease. So these startups are in a delicate position: They need revenue to fund their quests to develop anti-aging treatments, but for the time being, they have to pitch the potential value of their earliest drugs in more straightforward terms, describing how they treat specific diseases, not aging itself.

The first patient that was dosed in the Life Biosciences trial this week has glaucoma, an eye condition that is more common as people age and that can lead to vision loss. “We believe this is the most expedient and most efficient way to bring our products to market,” said Jerry McLaughlin, the company’s CEO.

Retro Biosciences is developing a drug intended to restore aging cells’ ability to clear out toxic proteins that accumulate and can cause cognitive decline. The company, which has so far enrolled healthy volunteers in the trial, intends to treat Alzheimer’s disease. To commercialize the drug, the company just has to prove it makes a difference in a disease whose risks increase during aging, not that it stymies aging itself.

“It’s a lot harder to measure the outcome of drugs that slow aging,” said Joe Betts-LaCroix, CEO and co-founder of Retro.

NewLimit, for its part, hopes to start testing its drug in people with fatty liver disease first, followed by patients with more severe alcohol-associated liver disease. As people get older, proteins that are supposed to only be found inside liver cells start to leak into the bloodstream. If NewLimit can show the drug is safe and effective, the population of people eligible to use it is likely to expand and eventually might include “everyone over 60,” said Jacob Kimmel, NewLimit’s president and co-founder.

Even though NewLimit’s premise is that its drug is making old cells younger, Kimmel said he is hesitant to describe what the company is doing as “reversing aging,” long considered a holy grail among the Silicon Valley tech elite.

“The framing I like better is that we’re restoring youthful function,” Kimmel said. “We’re not trying to make—atom for atom—the old cell exactly like the young one. We’re trying to fix the parts that are really critical.”

After talking to the CEOs, it struck me that the biggest challenge to truly developing longevity drugs remains unsolved: how to measure whether a drug is extending someone’s lifespan without having to wait 40 years to prove it works.

Regulators, academics and entrepreneurs are working on the problem. Last month, the Reagan-Udall Foundation for the FDA hosted a conference focused on accelerating the development of gerotherapeutics, a fancy name for longevity drugs. There, an official from the Advanced Research Projects Agency for Health—a federal agency created in 2022 to fund high-risk research—spoke about a $144 million effort that will include developing and testing new ways to measure if a drug is slowing down aging.

“Nobody has defined yet what the bar for success is in a longevity trial,” said Martin Borch Jensen, co-founder and chief scientific officer of Gordian Biotechnology.

Jensen told me he considers Gordian “a longevity company.” Still, Gordian’s first drug under development is to treat osteoarthritis, not aging, Jensen said.

Finding a way to accurately predict someone’s longevity is also on the mind of Kristen Fortney, CEO and co-founder of BioAge Labs. BioAge recently announced it had completed an early human trial for a drug that blocks the inflammation-causing protein NLRP3 in people who are obese and at high risk for cardiovascular disease.

Fortney said NLRP3 protein levels also rise in healthy people as they age. Recent research by BioAge and other companies indicates that people who are otherwise healthy but have higher amounts of NLRP3 at middle age don’t live as long as people in the same age group with lower amounts. To me, the protein sounded like a promising future candidate to predict longevity.

Maybe so, but for now at least, longevity trials remain confounding. “We are still figuring it out as a field,” Fortney said.

The Information : Amazon’s Jassy Raised Concerns About Anthropic Model Before Tr

Amazon’s Jassy Raised Concerns About Anthropic Model Before Trump Crackdown

The Takeaway
  • Amazon CEO Jassy among tech leaders to raise concerns over model.
  • Trump administration restricted Anthropic’s advanced AI models for security.
  • Restrictions followed a discovered “jailbreaking” method for Fable 5.

Amazon CEO Andy Jassy was among the tech leaders who raised concerns to senior Trump administration officials this week about security risks in Anthropic’s most advanced models, according to two people familiar with the conversations.

The calls between the head of Amazon—one of Anthropic’s biggest investors and vendors—and the officials in the last few days helped set in motion the Trump administration’s new export restrictions on Anthropic’s Claude Mythos 5 and Fable 5 models late Friday night, citing national security concerns, the people said. Those restrictions suspend access to those models to foreign nationals. Anthropic said it disabled access to the models for all customers to comply.

An Amazon spokesperson told The Information: “As a leading cloud provider that serves a large number of private and public sector customers, it’s not uncommon for governments to seek our counsel on potential security risks. When they occur, we don’t share the details of these discussions.”

The restrictions are the latest hit to Anthropic in its ongoing standoff with the Trump administration. The relationship between the Claude maker and the government has devolved in recent months following the Pentagon’s move in March to designate the company’s model as a supply chain risk. That move came after the two disagreed on whether Anthropic’s models could be used in cases like mass domestic surveillance or with lethal autonomous weapons.

The White House is unlikely to extend export restrictions on Anthropic’s advanced models to other AI companies, an official close to the U.S. government said Saturday.

Anthropic said Friday it had worked with U.S. and international government agencies to identify security vulnerabilities in Fable. The company had previously said it was concerned that the AI systems had become so advanced that they could hack software programs better than humans. The government did not object to the release of Fable, according to a source close to Anthropic.

Jassy’s conversations and the administration’s move to limit access to Fable 5 and Mythos 5 also highlight growing concerns from researchers and cybersecurity experts around the ability for Anthropic’s latest models to find new security vulnerabilities and exploits. Anthropic on Tuesday released Claude Fable 5, a neutered version of Mythos that’s blocked from being able to answer questions about cybersecurity and advanced AI research.

In a blog post published on Friday night, Anthropic said that it believed the government had “become aware of a method of bypassing, or ‘jailbreaking’ Fable 5” and its safety guardrails.

Anthropic cited a demonstration of how the jailbreak could be used to find vulnerabilities, but said that those vulnerabilities that were found were “relatively simple” and that other publicly-available models were able to find them as well.

After the discussions with Jassy and other tech leaders, U.S. national cyber director Sean Cairncross called a meeting on Friday with senior White House officials who decided that export restriction was the most straightforward way to take action against Anthropic, according to two of the people.

A spokesperson for the Office of the National Cyber Director did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

After the meeting, Anthropic CEO Dario Amodei and administration officials spoke on Friday, said four people familiar with the call. During the conversations, Anthropic officials laid out how the security vulnerabilities found through the alleged jailbreak were relatively simple and could be achieved with other models. But the government told Anthropic that it had already decided to implement the export control.

Anthropic and Amazon have a deep, multi-faceted relationship. Amazon has invested $13 billion in the company since 2023, and planned to invest another $20 billion in the future, tied to commercial milestones, the e-commerce giant said in April. Amazon’s Trainium chips help train and power Anthropic’s AI models, which also run on Amazon Web Services.

Amazon also has become a large investor in OpenAI this year, agreeing to invest up to $50 billion into the Anthropic rival and sell its latest models through AWS for the first time.

The Trump administration’s export controls follow an executive order it made two weeks ago to institute a voluntary framework in which AI companies could share their models with the government ahead of releasing them to partners and then the public.

The executive order was the result of a debate inside the White House on whether to put in place a more onerous licensing system for AI companies seeking to release advanced models, The Information previously reported.

The Information : OpenAI, Anthropic Employees Have Already Cashed Out About $14

OpenAI, Anthropic Employees Have Already Cashed Out About $14 Billion

The Takeaway
  • OpenAI and Anthropic employees have cashed out an estimated $14 billion in shares.
  • OpenAI facilitated over $9 billion in employee share sales via tenders.
  • AI companies still need public capital for massive model training costs.


Anthropic and OpenAI have some pressing reasons to go public. But they have already relieved some of the pressure that typically pushes companies toward initial public offerings: employees anxious to cash out their equity.

The two AI model companies have allowed early employees and investors to sell a combined $14 billion in shares over the last five years, according to The Information’s estimates. More employee sales of private shares are coming.

Last week, as OpenAI filed its draft paperwork for an IPO, the company also started planning a tender offer for its employees at its March valuation of $730 billion before the money raised.

This share sale is the latest in a string of OpenAI-arranged share sales allowing current and former employees to net some cash. The 11-year-old AI lab has completed at least eight such sales in the past five years, providing a windfall of over $9 billion total for its staff.

Sales at rival Anthropic have been less frequent, though that’s likely in part because the company was only founded five years ago. In May 2025, it arranged its first buyback of shares held by current and former employees, which occurred a few months after investors had valued it at $58 billion before the money raised.

Then, early this year, following a funding round that valued it at $350 billion, Anthropic arranged for another multibillion-dollar share sale for current and former staff. As the Claude maker’s annualized revenue surged past $30 billion, some venture capitalists speculated Anthropic would arrange a new sale at a $500 billion valuation. It didn’t, instead raising $65 billion at a $900 billion valuation before the investment.

Secondary Wave

Private share sales have increasingly helped attract and reward startup staff, especially as companies such as Stripe, Databricks and SpaceX have pushed off going public in recent years. (By the time SpaceX went public on Friday, it had been holding employee share sales for at least five years.)

In 2025, current and former employees at private companies sold roughly $1.7 billion in shares through tender offers and secondaries, more than $200 million higher than what they sold in 2024 and 2023 combined, according to data firm Carta.

Such sales become increasingly important as companies stay private for several years, at which point employees may have to start paying taxes on their stock compensation—sometimes before they have been able to cash in on their holdings.

“Employees will have been fully vested and holding on for a while for OpenAI,” said Javier Avalos, CEO of private markets data platform Caplight. “At that point, you start to feel a lot of pressure to provide liquidity to employees.”

Employees will have been fully vested and holding on for a while at OpenAI, said Caplight's Javier Avalos.
Company-sponsored tender offers are the main avenue for employees to sell shares before an IPO. Some employees have also been able to sell shares through individual secondary transactions. SoftBank, which led OpenAI’s $330 billion valuation funding round last year, bought at least $1.7 billion worth of existing shares from OpenAI holders in separate transactions last year.

Both Anthropic and OpenAI have been cracking down on stock sales they haven’t authorized—say, through special purpose vehicles—in recent months


For both companies, the biggest reason to go public is the tens of billions of dollars IPOs will allow them to raise for training and running their models. That’s necessary, as they anticipate spending hundreds of billions on computing services.

“It’s a very capital-intensive business to train AI models,” Anthropic president and co-founder Daniela Amodei said at a Bloomberg Tech conference earlier this month. “Over time, the sort of core set of companies that are working to advance the frontier are just going to need access to capital, and I think the public market is very well suited to that.”

One factor holding back share sales is that employees may judge it’s better to wait for an IPO to sell. Anthropic’s employee share sale earlier this year fell short of the $5 billion to $6 billion Bloomberg reported investors wanted to buy.

And eventually, most companies find a way to go public.

While OpenAI is planning an employee share sale, that “doesn’t take away the incentive to go public,” Ken Smythe, founder and CEO of secondaries-focused firm Next Round Capital, said. “Tenders are just a release valve for liquidity.”