15 of the World’s Most Expensive Handbags: Birkins That Bling, Chanel’s Crocodile Skin Flap Bag and More Brands With the Power of the Purse
Talk about a splurge.
For some, a purse is more than an accessory — it’s an investment. According to Data Bridge, a global market research firm, the luxury handbag market is on an upswing, with its value projected to reach $42 billion by 2029. Meanwhile, global financial consulting company Credit Suisse estimates that high-end handbags are one of the best investments of 2023, beating out both art and jewelry.
High fashion labels are increasingly catering to collectors, releasing their most prized purses in extremely limited numbers. These one-of-a-kind pieces can fetch hundreds of thousands at auction, with crocodile finishes and diamond embellishments upping the ante.
Below, see 15 of the world’s most expensive handbags. Unsurprisingly, Hermès dominates the list.
$137,500
The Ombré Birkin

The Ombré Birkin 25.
SOTHEBY’S
The Ombré Birkin was introduced in 2019. Crafted from ultra-rare Varanus salvator lizard skin, the bag comes adorned with palladium hardware and is lined with Parchemin chevre leather. While its retail price is between $40,000 and $80,000, the Ombré Birkin is worth almost double at auction. In 2020, Sotheby’s sold this purse for $137,500.
$139,230
The Metallic Birkin
The Metallic Birkin

SOTHEBY’S
Released in 2005, limited-edition metallic Birkins were made in silver and bronze. Measuring 25 centimeters, they’re smaller than the typical Birkin, but they’ll still cost a pretty penny. A silver version with bronze detailing, sold by Sotheby’s in 2022, went for nearly $140,000.
$208,000
The So Black Birkin

The Matte Crocodile So Black Birkin 30.
CHRISTIE’S
Before Jean Paul Gaultier stepped down as creative director of Hermès in 2010, his final collection for the fashion house included a line of “So Black” handbags. This limited-edition matte niloticus crocodile 30 with PVD hardware fetched just over $200,000 when Christie’s auctioned it off in 2019.
$261,000
Chanel Diamond Forever
Chanel Diamond Forever

Madonna holds the Chanel Diamond Forever bag at amfAR’s Cinema Against AIDS 2008 benefit.
WIREIMAGE
In 2008, Chanel produced its Diamond Forever bag. Karl Lagerfeld designed the alligator leather piece in the style of the French label’s iconic flap bags. It features white gold hardware, including a clasp encrusted with 334 diamonds totaling 3.56 carats. The Diamond Forever was put up for auction during amfAR’s Cinema Against AIDS benefit, selling for $261,000.
$288,200
The Diamond Birkin

The Géranium Crocodile Diamond Birkin 35.
CHRISTIE’S
Birkins made with exotic skins are already considered rare, so it’s no surprise that a little bling increases the price tag. Crocodile diamond Birkins typically cost more than $200,000 on the resale market, with one of the most expensive being the Géranium 35, pictured above. Sold by Christie’s in 2018, the bag is crafted with porosus crocodile skin and includes 18-karat white gold and diamond hardware.
$300,000
Hermès So Black Feather Kelly

Hermès Black Box Feather Sellier Kelly 32 with black PVD hardware.
MICHI SIN/SOTHEBY’S
Christie’s auctioned off this limited-edition Hermès purse in 2022. Designed by the label’s former creative director, Jean Paul Gaultier, it was created in collaboration with French feather métier Maison Lemarié.
$352,000
Hermès Feather Mosaïque Kelly

The Feather Mosaïque Kelly 32 with palladium hardware.
This taupe Sellier Kelly, made in 2010, is adorned with a geometric collage of multicolor feathers. It sold for $352,825 at a 2021 Christie’s auction in Hong Kong.
$400,000
Hermès Faubourg Birkin
Hermès Faubourg Birkin

Hermès matte alligator Faubourg Birkin.
SOTHEBY’S
First released in 2019, the Faubourg Birkin resembles an Hermès storefront. There are four different shades of the coveted handbag, with the Neige or “Snow” colorway being the most valuable. Faubourgs have become among the most collectible Hermès bags, featuring both alligator and chèvre leather. Sotheby’s sold this rare 20 cm handbag with palladium hardware for $400,000 in 2022.
$400,000
Li Bingbing’s Lana Marks Cleopatra Clutch
Li Bingbing’s Lana Marks Cleopatra Clutch

Li Bingbing at the 2012 Oscars.
WIREIMAGE
Lana Marks’ trademark Cleopatra clutch comes in a variety of colors. It became a must-have red carpet accessory in the 2000s, with stars including Helen Mirren, Charlize Theron and Angelina Jolie carrying variations of the crocodile bag.
Marks’ most expensive creation, however, was for Chinese actress Li Bingbing. Bingbing’s $400,000 custom clutch features 40 carats of black diamonds, 18-karat gold, and her name written in pink gold embellished with pink diamonds.
$450,000
Hermès Himalaya Birkin

Hermès Himalaya crocodile diamond Birkin with 18-karat gold hardware.
AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES
Sotheby’s sold a Himalaya Birkin 30 with diamond-encrusted white gold hardware for $450,000 in 2022. Made from niloticus crocodile skin, the highly-coveted handbag features nine to ten carats of stones. Named for their gradient pattern reminiscent of the snow-capped mountain range, Himalayas, even those without diamond hardware, are considered some of the rarest — and most valuable — in the world.
$513,200
Hermès Himalaya Kelly
Hermès Himalaya Kelly

An Hermès Himalaya Crocodile Retourné Kelly 32 with palladium hardware.
GETTY IMAGES
Much like Himalaya Birkins, their Kelly counterparts are worth a pretty penny. Christie’s broke a world record with the 2021 sale of a Himalaya crocodile Retourné Kelly 28. The piece, which features 18-karat gold and diamond hardware, sold for $513,200. Another Himalaya crocodile Retourné Kelly 25 with palladium hardware fetched $435,375 in 2020.
$1 Million
Louis Vuitton Millionaire Speedy

Rocket Williams, Pharrell Williams and Frédéric Arnault at Loewe’s spring 2024 menswear show.
WWD VIA GETTY IMAGES
This luxe iteration of Louis Vuitton’s fan-favorite duffle is crafted from yellow crocodile skin and emblazoned with the brand’s signature monogram pattern. It also features a diamond-covered chain strap. The brand’s new creative director of menswear, Pharrell Williams, debuted the bag at Paris Men’s Fashion Week in June.
$1.9 Million
Hermès Ginza Tanaka Birkin
Hermès Ginza Tanaka Birkin

Hermès Ginza Tanaka Birkin.
AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES
Hermès collaborated with Japanese jeweler Ginza Tanaka in 2015 to create this $1.9 million platinum “Birkin.” It’s encrusted with 2,182 diamonds, including an eight carat pear-shaped center piece.
$2 Million
Hermès Sac Bijou Birkin

The Sac Bijou Birkin.
Priced at $2 million, the Sac Bijou Birkin was released as part of Hermès’ Haute Bijouterie Collection in 2012. Designed by Pierre Hardy, the miniature handbag, intended to be worn as a bracelet, features over 2,000 diamonds set in rose gold. According to Sotheby’s, there are only three Sac Bijou Birkins in existence.
What is the most expensive purse in the world?
$3.8 Million
Mouawad
Mouawad

Mouawad 1001 Nights diamond purse.
AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES
One of the world’s most expensive handbags was created by Mouawad jewelers, who crafted this Guinness World Records-certified 1001 Nights diamond purse. Priced at $3.8 million, 10 artisans covered the heart-shaped piece in more than 4,000 diamonds. These yellow, pink and colorless stones total 381.92 carats.
>>> Up
* Bank of America Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley; PT $41
* BNY Mellon Raised to Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley; PT $62
* Citigroup Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley; PT $65
* Kion Raised to Outperform at Oddo BHF
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* Taylor Wimpey Raised to Buy at BofA; PT 160 pence (+)
* Topdanmark Raised to Neutral at BNPP Exane; PT 314 kroner
>>> Down
* Topdanmark Raised to Neutral at BNPP Exane; PT 314 kroner
>>> Down
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* AFRY AB Cut to Hold at ABG; PT 150 kronor
* Antofagasta Cut to Reduce at Peel Hunt; PT 1,360 pence
* AT&S Cut to Underperform at Oddo BHF (+)
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* Colefax Cut to Add at Peel Hunt; PT 700 pence (+)
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* FUTURE PLC CUT TO HOLD VS BUY AT BERENBERG, PT 850P
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* Gamida Cell Cut to Market Perform at JMP
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* Pharma Mar Cut to Sell at Alantra Equities; PT 35.30 euros (+)
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>>> Initiation
>>> Initiation
* BoneSupport Rated New Buy at Bryan Garnier; PT 280 kronor
* Comer Industries Rated New Buy at Equita; PT 35 euros (+)
* Edenred Rated New Underperform at Autonomous; PT 44 euros
* Gateley Rated New Buy at Investec; PT 202 pence
* Kainos Re-Initiated Buy at Berenberg; PT 1,315 pence
* Romande Energie Rated New Market Perform at ZKB (+)
* WAG Payment Rated New Buy at Panmure Gordon; PT 130 pence
>>> Call
* WAG Payment Rated New Buy at Panmure Gordon; PT 130 pence
>>> Call
* Antofagasta Cut, Needs Copper Rally to Justify Price: Peel Hunt
* Citi’s Montagu Says Sentiment Improves for China Stock Futures
* Citi Opens Positive Catalyst Watches in Europe Building Products
* IAG Cut, Lufthansa Raised at Morgan Stanley, Cargo Cushions Risk
* IAG Cut, Lufthansa Raised at Morgan Stanley, Cargo Cushions Risk
* Morgan Stanley Turns Bullish on Large US Banks; Raises Citi, GS
* Pets at Home Growth Outlook Appears Challenging, RBC Says (+)
* Skanska Double-Upgraded at Jefferies as Risk-Reward Turns
* Sweco Gets Only Sell as ABG Sees Lack of Triggers For Stock
- Renault (RNL TH) +2%
- Renault’s Pulled EV IPO Lifts Key Investor Worry: Street Wrap
- Porsche AG (P911 TH) +1.8%
- Bangkok Post: Macan Sets New Standards: Porsche’s First All-Electric SUV
- Kion (KGX TH) +1.6%
- Vodafone (VODI TH) +1.5%
- Lufthansa (LHA TH) +1.3%
- IAG Cut, Lufthansa Raised at Morgan Stanley, Cargo Cushions Risk
- ASML (ASME TH) +1.2%
- Zealand Pharma (22Z TH) +1%
- Skanska (SKNB TH) +0.8%
- Skanska Double-Upgraded at Jefferies as Risk-Reward Turns
- Encavis (ECV TH) -0.8%
- Schneider Electric (SND TH) -1.3%
- Industrials’ Lofty Valuations Separate ‘Haves’ From ‘Have Nots’
- Nokia (NOA3 TH) -1.4%
- Diageo (GUI TH) -2.6%
- *DIAGEO 1H ADJ. OPER PROFIT $3.51B, EST. $4.11B
DAX:
- Porsche AG (P911 TH) +2%
MDAX:
- Kion (KGX TH) +1.6%
- Lufthansa (LHA TH) +1.3%
- IAG Cut, Lufthansa Raised at Morgan Stanley, Cargo Cushions Risk
- Encavis (ECV TH) -0.8%
- Jungheinrich (JUN3 TH) -2.7%
- Jungheinrich Cut to Neutral at Oddo BHF; PT 35 euros
SDAX:
- Deutsche Beteiligungs AG (DBAN TH) +1.8%
- MorphoSys (MOR TH) +1%
>>> Up
* Bank of America Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley; PT $41
* BNY Mellon Raised to Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley; PT $62
* Citigroup Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley; PT $65
* Kion Raised to Outperform at Oddo BHF
* Lufthansa Raised to Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley
* Netflix Raised to Buy at Citic Securities; PT $600
* Skanska Raised to Buy at Jefferies; PT 212 kronor
* Topdanmark Raised to Neutral at BNPP Exane; PT 314 kroner
>>> Down
* Topdanmark Raised to Neutral at BNPP Exane; PT 314 kroner
>>> Down
* AFRY AB Cut to Hold at ABG; PT 150 kronor
* Antofagasta Cut to Reduce at Peel Hunt; PT 1,360 pence
* IAG Cut to Underweight at Morgan Stanley; PT 174.65 pence
* FUTURE PLC CUT TO HOLD VS BUY AT BERENBERG, PT 850P
* Gamida Cell Cut to Market Perform at JMP
* Gamida Cell Cut to Market Perform at JMP
* Jungheinrich Cut to Neutral at Oddo BHF; PT 35 euros
* Sweco Cut to Sell at ABG; PT 110 kronor
* Wavestone Cut to Hold at Stifel; PT 67 euros
>>> Initiation
>>> Initiation
* BoneSupport Rated New Buy at Bryan Garnier; PT 280 kronor
* Edenred Rated New Underperform at Autonomous; PT 44 euros
* Gateley Rated New Buy at Investec; PT 202 pence
* Kainos Re-Initiated Buy at Berenberg; PT 1,315 pence
* WAG Payment Rated New Buy at Panmure Gordon; PT 130 pence
>>> Call
* WAG Payment Rated New Buy at Panmure Gordon; PT 130 pence
>>> Call
* Antofagasta Cut, Needs Copper Rally to Justify Price: Peel Hunt
* Citi’s Montagu Says Sentiment Improves for China Stock Futures
* Citi Opens Positive Catalyst Watches in Europe Building Products
* IAG Cut, Lufthansa Raised at Morgan Stanley, Cargo Cushions Risk
* IAG Cut, Lufthansa Raised at Morgan Stanley, Cargo Cushions Risk
* Morgan Stanley Turns Bullish on Large US Banks; Raises Citi, GS
* Skanska Double-Upgraded at Jefferies as Risk-Reward Turns
* Sweco Gets Only Sell as ABG Sees Lack of Triggers For Stock
Asia stocks slipped Tuesday, led by a selloff in Hong Kong equities as the liquidation of a large Chinese developer intensified concerns over the nation’s embattled real estate sector. Stocks in Hong Kong fell around 2%, while those on the mainland were poised to decline for a third day. The impact of China Evergrande Group’s liquidation order pushed a Bloomberg index of Chinese developers down almost 4%. Mounting expectations for more policy easing in China drove the benchmark government bond yield to fall to its lowest in nearly 22 years. Hong Kong benchmarks were also weighed by BYD Co. after shares in the EV maker slumped after missing its earnings forecast. Elsewhere, shares in South Korea and Japan traded within tight ranges. Treasury yields extended falls Tuesday after a cut in the quarterly borrowing estimate by the US Treasury eased concerns about the flood of debt being issued to cover the federal deficit. Futures contracts on US equities were unchanged after Wall Street climbed to fresh records. Oil was steady as the market waited for a US response to the deadly attack on American troops in Jordan, which could risk an escalation of tensions in a region key to global crude production. The New Zealand dollar held onto gains following hawkish comments from an official at the nation’s central bank. The greenback was little changed as traders waited for US data and the Federal Reserve’s policy decision this week. The next few days will be crucial in the US to determine whether stock valuations — particularly those of megacap US technology companies — are sustainable given that investors are pricing in significant earnings growth expectations in anticipation of rate cuts coming sooner than Fed officials project, according to JPMorgan Chase & Co.’s Marko Kolanovic. This week marks the busiest this season for US earnings, with results from Microsoft Corp., Alphabet Inc., Apple Inc., Amazon.com Inc. and Meta Platforms Inc. As most of the megacaps remain in record territory, there are concerns that investors are overexposed to just a handful of stocks, which could open the door for some pain if quarterly results underwhelm. Investors are also on the lookout for the Federal Reserve’s rate decision and a raft of data from consumer confidence to jobs. Going into this week’s two-day Fed policy meeting, investors are assigning roughly even odds to the prospect that the central bank will start lowering borrowing costs at its next decision in March. US After Hours SANM +16.5%, SMCI +9.8%, FFIV +8.7%, CLS +7.9% up big on earnings; CALX -22.2%, HLIT -7%, WHR -4.1% down following earnings.
Nikkei +0.11% Hang Seng -1.79% CSI -1.15% Shanghai -1.47% Shenzen -2.36%
Eur$ 1.0823 CNH 7.1881 CNY 7.1773 JPY 147.38 GBP 1.2706 CHF 0.8617 RUB 89.2524 TRY 30.3524 WTI$ 77.27 Gold 2,032 -0.06% BTC 43,365 +0.41% ETH 2,305 -0.06%
S&P -0.05% Nasdaq +0.02% EuroStoxx +0.30% FTSE.+0.42% Dax +0.31% SMI +0.28%
Macro :
- Generative AI Seen as Helping to Identify M&A Targets, Says Bain
- JPMorgan’s Kolanovic Sees Tech Earnings Testing Rich Valuations
- JPMorgan’s Kolanovic Sees Tech Earnings Testing Rich Valuations
- Bank Mergers Would Face Tougher Process Under OCC Proposal
- Andurand De-Risks Hedge Fund as Bullish Oil Bets Cause 55% Loss
- Norway’s $1.5 Trillion Wealth Fund Boosted Tech Stock Holdings
- Citi’s Montagu Says Sentiment Improves for China Stock Futures
- Morgan Stanley Turns Bullish on Large US Banks; Raises Citi, GS
Keep an eye on :
Keep an eye on :
- ALO FP : Alstom, Hargreaves Lansdown, Kingfisher Short Sellers Active
- AMBUB DC : Ambu 1Q Ebit Before Significant Items Beats Estimates
- ARJOB SS : Arjo Sees 2024 Organic Revenue +3% to +5%
- MT NA : Nucor 4Q EPS Beats Estimates
- RCUS US : Gilead to Invest Additional $320m in Arcus, Raise Stake to 33%
- BBVA SM : BBVA Announces €780 Million Buyback as Earnings Beat Estimates
- BA US : Boeing Explores Engineering Solution for Max 7 Anti-Ice Issue
- BUCN SW : Bucher FY Sales Misses Estimates
- ROO LN : Delivery Hero Exits Deliveroo Stake With £83 Million Share Sale, Deliveroo Offering by Delivery Hero Prices at GBP1.13/Share
- DHER GY : Delivery Hero's Deliveroo Sale Wise, Cuts Low-Growth Risk: React
- DHER GY : Delivery Hero's Deliveroo Sale Wise, Cuts Low-Growth Risk: React
- FLS DC : FLSmidth Prelim 4Q Sales Beats Est., Explores Cement Unit Sale
- FYB GY : Richter Acquires 9.08% Formycon Stake in Capital Increase
- G IM : *GENERALI PLANS TO START €500M SHARE BUYBACK PROGRAM IN 2024
- GRE SM : Grenergy Sells 174 MW of Renewable Assets Within Peru for $150M
- HLAG GY : Hapag-Lloyd Prelim FY Ebitda Misses Estimates
- IMCR US : Immunocore Said to Market $300M Convertibles with 2.5%-3% Coupon
- KESKOB FH : Kesko 4Q Adjusted Ebit Beats Estimates
- NANO FP : Nanobiotix Announces Achievement of $20M Development Milestone Payment Related to Ongoing Global Phase 3 Head and Neck Cancer
- NCCB SS : NCC 4Q Net Income Beats Estimates
- NUE US : Nucor 4Q EPS Beats Estimates
- QFUEL NO : Quantafuel Holder to Buy Rest of Shares at NOK6.38/Share
- RVRC SS : RVRC Holding 2Q Net Sales Beats Estimates
- RNO FP : Renault to Discuss Ampere Investment w/ Nissan After Pulling IPO
- RNO FP : Renault to Discuss Ampere Investment w/ Nissan After Pulling IPO
- TEL2B SS : Tele2 4Q Adjusted Ebitda After Leases Beats Estimates
- TSLA US : Musk Says First Human Received Neuralink Implant Sunday
- TKA GY : Thyssenkrupp M&A Talks Complicated by Steel Industry Woes: CEO
- TCELL TI : Niel to Buy Turkcell Ukraine Arm for Over $500 Million
- VOD LN : Niel Says Vodafone ‘Has a Problem’ in Italian Market
BYD Shares Fall as China’s Auto Price War Weighs on Bottom Line
BYD forecast a steep jump in 2023 net profit but that still missed some analyst expectations
Shares of Chinese electric-vehicle maker BYD were lower after its latest profit forecast fell short of expectations, amid an intensifying price war among China’s automakers.
Shares were 5.8% lower in afternoon trade in Hong Kong at HK$175.20, taking losses this year to over 18%.
BYD, the Warren Buffett-backed company that recently surpassed Tesla to become the world’s largest EV maker by sales volume, late Monday forecast a steep jump in 2023 net profit that nonetheless missed some analyst expectations. The Shenzhen-based company forecast full-year profit of between 29 billion yuan and 31 billion yuan, up 75%-87% on the year, on record sales of new-energy vehicles.
Nomura analysts said in a research note that the forecast was 4%-10% below their expectations, and highlighted a fourth-quarter bottom line that appeared to be down 7%-27% sequentially.
“Considering the intensifying competition in the China auto market, we have become more cautious regarding the margins and profitability of all players…exposed to China,” they wrote. With companies “sacrificing profitability for market share, it is possible that there may be no clear winners in the short run.”
Daiwa analyst Kelvin Lau said BYD’s profit per car fell from the third quarter, likely hurt by discounts offered during November and December to boost sales.
Citi analyst Jeff Chung said the full-year profit forecast was in line with the bank’s projection and the bottom line in the fourth-quarter net profit was lower than consensus, partly due to extra costs at the year’s end for dealer incentives. Sales-mix improvement on high-end products were lower than expected, Chung said, adding that the continuing price wars appear to be taking a toll.
He kept a buy rating but said the stock could be hurt in the short-term given the sector’s overall demand weakness in January along with a low-season impact in February and price-war uncertainty into March.
Shares of BYD Electronic, a maker of handset components, were also lower, slipping 4.8% in the afternoon trade to HK$27.65. The company late Monday forecast full-year profit to more than double on year to 3.9 billion yuan to 4.1 billion yuan, which Citi analysts said implied a 28%-44% sequential decline in fourth-quarter profit.
“Given expectations have been reset amid market caution on first-quarter seasonality and smartphone demand, we see this as a buying opportunity,” they said.
UK infrastructure costs are much higher than European peers, research shows
BCG report reveals price of a flat road in Britain is £8.45mn per km against European average of £5.77mn
The UK is burdened with significantly higher construction costs than European peers, according to research that lays bare the challenge of upgrading British roads, bridges and energy systems at a time of tight public finances.
Infrastructure project costs are much higher in the UK than in France, Germany and Spain, according to early findings from a Boston Consulting Group study that compared more than 1,600 projects around the world.
The findings underline the tricky situation for politicians grappling with how to upgrade the country’s tattered infrastructure, fund the transition to a low-carbon economy and drive down public debt.
The pressure has piled on since Covid-19 as big construction projects suffer from sharp rises in material, labour and energy costs. Infrastructure construction costs in September 2023 were 25 per cent higher than in January 2020.
“The focus needs to be on how we can improve right across every stage of delivery of large infrastructure projects. Pushing more money into the pipeline alone won’t address much of the root causes,” said Raoul Ruparel, director of BCG’s Centre for Growth.
The National Infrastructure Commission has said overall public and private sector investment needs to increase from an average of about £55bn per year over the past decade to between £70bn and £80bn per year in the 2030s, to respond to global warming and bolster growth across UK regions.
This would entail one of the steepest jumps in UK infrastructure spending since the second world war, BCG estimates.
The BCG analysis, due to be released next week, compares the unit costs and build times of road, rail and social infrastructure projects such as hospitals across six economies.
The report shows that on unit costs the UK spends more than Germany, France and Spain, as well as a wider grouping of countries across the EU. British costs are similar to those in the US, however, and below those of Australia.
UK rail projects were found to be particularly expensive, with costs driven up in part by a handful of very large, complex projects. But even on more basic projects, such as flat roads, UK unit costs are higher, said Ruparel.
For example, the average cost for a flat road in the UK is £8.45mn per km, compared with a European average of £5.77mn per km and £4.22mn per km in France, according to BCG.
Among the problems the UK faces are long planning times. While the UK is not the worst performer on unit costs, Ruparel said: “The picture becomes less rosy still when you consider decades of under-investment and the likely increase in demand for larger and more complex infrastructure projects.”
Infrastructure has moved up the UK political agenda after Rishi Sunak’s decision last year to cancel the northern leg of HS2 and a scandal over a potentially dangerous lightweight concrete used in schools and hospitals.
But hopes this might sow the seeds for a renewal have been overshadowed by political plans for a harsh retrenchment in public investment.
While UK public sector net investment is relatively high as a share of GDP, at 2.6 per cent in the current year compared with 1.5 per cent 10 years earlier, the Treasury has now pencilled in a cash-terms freeze after the election expected this year.
As a result, public sector net investment will be crunched by nearly £20bn between now and 2028-29 in real terms, according to the Institute for Fiscal Studies think-tank.
Even under the Labour party’s £28bn green spending programme, public investment will end up lower in 2028-29 in real terms than its current level, said Ben Zaranko, a senior research economist at the IFS, warning of a “big squeeze” on infrastructure spending over the next five years.
Already UK private and public investment across a range of categories, including infrastructure, is about 5 percentage points lower as a share of GDP than the G7 median excluding the UK. The country would have to invest £130bn extra per year to close the gap.
“Not only has public investment in infrastructure been low by international standards but it has been highly uncertain and volatile, which impacts private sector willingness to participate,” said Jagjit Chadha, director of the National Institute of Economic and Social Research think-tank.
“We have an investment shortfall that is manifest in appalling utilities and transport services — which is a disaster for the country,” he added.
British politicians are looking to the private sector for help, hoping to encourage more insurers and pension funds to invest.
The government is also trying to accelerate infrastructure delivery via planning and grid reforms, as well as setting up a UK Infrastructure Bank.
“The government is committed to delivering high quality infrastructure to boost growth across the country,” the Treasury said.
The opposition Labour party has also pledged to improve investment if it wins the general election. Darren Jones, Labour’s shadow chief secretary to the Treasury, said the party wants to “identify thematic problems” such as on budgets, performance management and delays.
“The big question is, why is it always more expensive to build something in the public sector in the first place?” Jones said.
Under Britain’s regulated utility model for water, energy and telecommunications, large swaths of infrastructure are financed by the private sector. “You can do more to unlock more private capital to get investment higher,” said Tom Smith, director of economic policy at the Tony Blair Institute think-tank.
Pension funds are being targeted by both main UK political parties. Australian and Canadian pension funds invest three times as much of their portfolios into infrastructure than UK funds, Smith said.
However, specialists warn that overseas investors are deterred by the UK’s problems in delivering new projects.
Alison Fagan, partner and head of international infrastructure funds at DLA Piper, said: “The UK is increasingly seen as a challenging market because of the lack of a defined infrastructure policy and the wealth of alternative opportunities elsewhere.”
On, the sports shoe disrupter hotfooting it towards leisure
The Swiss start-up brand has grown rapidly with its revolutionary designs of high-performance sports footwear
Ordinarily, a shoe with holes in the soles would be primed for the dustbin. But On, the Swiss sports brand launched in 2010, has turned that irregular aesthetic into a multibillion-dollar USP — its signature crater-soled sneakers made 95 per cent of the company’s $1.5bn sales in the first nine months of 2023.
Patented as CloudTec, prototypes for On’s curious, crumpet-like rubber treads were conceived from a cut-off hosepipe some years before the company’s founding in 2010. Now, they’re made using special injectable moulds. They look a bit futuristic, are visually a tad weird and the vibe is borderline dorky. Nevertheless, both runners and pedestrians have fallen head over heels for them.
In Dubai, they’ve replaced Yeezy as the go-to fashion sneaker, says thirtysomething physicist Abdulla Alhajri, while in Tokyo, all-black pairs of the stacked-sole Cloudmonsters (£160) are being worn by trendy, gorpcore types, according to Sam Millen-Cramer, a Portland-based strategist who works with sneaker brands. In the US, they’ve been adopted by the tech bros; in the UK, by pensioners. Peter Stephens, a 65-year-old former teacher from Surrey, switched his trusty Skechers for a pair of On’s Cloudeclipse (£170) six months ago. The Cloud technology, designed to “roll” by collapsing on impact to propel runners forward, alleviates his arthritis pain, he says.
On’s star is ascendant in the running sphere, too. In 2023, Kenyan Olympian Hellen Obiri won the Boston marathon wearing On’s carbon-plated race shoe, called the CloudTri 1.
Martin Hoffmann, On’s co-chief executive and chief financial officer, expects the brand to double sales by 2026, to $4bn. He has good reason to be confident: the company has achieved seven record top-line quarters in a row, focused mostly on just one product category and one sport. “The lifestyle market is much bigger than the running market,” says Hoffmann. In other words, they’ve barely gotten started.
It’s a tricky time for performance brands. Sales of athletic footwear in the US increased just 2 per cent in the year to November 2023, according to research firm Circana, with revenues driven by price hikes rather than a growth in the number of shoes sold. Amer Sports, owner of Arc’teryx and Salomon, is currently looking to raise up to $1.8bn in an IPO to reduce debt. Allbirds revenue was down 21 per cent in the third quarter of 2023. Nike’s overall sales (encompassing all its sports categories, not just running) rose 10 per cent, to $51bn — but, in December, the company lowered its outlook of sales growth for 2024 to 1 per cent, and its stock slid 10 per cent.
On, which raised $746mn when it went public in 2021, has seen its shares rise 57 per cent in 2023. “We have confidence in On’s forward pipeline,” says Jonathan Komp, a senior research analyst at RW Baird, a US-based financial advisory firm, pointing at emerging opportunities within apparel, hiking and gym training for the brand. “The market is currently challenging . . . but we see On as one of the winners going forward.”
On’s growth aligns with a consumer shift towards speciality brands that blend the boundaries between lifestyle and performance. It is also one of the few new contenders to penetrate the sports shoe category and become a challenger to heritage sports brands — quite the feat for three founders with no prior experience of footwear design or manufacturing. (David Allemann worked in marketing; Olivier Bernhard was a pro triathlete; Caspar Coppetti was a strategy consultant at McKinsey & Co.) “Athletics is a competitive space, and it’s difficult to break into,” says Komp.
Hoka, founded in 2009 and now owned by Deckers, is one other rarity in a saturated industry where established performance brands, including Under Armour, have struggled to become known within the footwear sector. Shoes have many technical components and are expensive to execute — and many shoppers by default go to big-name brands for reliable performance and broad product offerings. (Nike currently has about 115 different styles of running shoes on nike.com.) On, which has 23 dedicated running styles, is currently clawing 10-15 per cent of footwear’s sales in speciality running stores, according to RW Baird’s Komp.
Still, it’s hard work going up against the big dogs. Adidas and Nike each spend 10-12 per cent of revenue on marketing. How to make noise, and stand out? “On’s distinctive product and technology, wrapped up in Swiss design and colour, [give it] intrigue,” says Komp. Its branding is also a point of difference. Neat and minimalist, in its early days On was cited as the go-to brand for design types.
Allemann, who formerly worked in marketing for Vitra, the trendy Swiss furniture firm, admits there were brands on the moodboard when the trio started On. But none were sports labels. “Apple changed the way we look at computers, not just the aesthetic of the hardware but the feel of the software,” he says. “Dyson made his technology very visible — you can peek into that turbine engine.” On’s holey soles follow the same view. “The customer sees the technology just by looking at it.”
Innovation is another of On’s strengths. Its shiny Zurich HQ has an incubator hub, an on-site lab for prototyping and a recycling facility: in the latter, it breaks down its bio-based Cloudneo sneakers and turns them into brand new shoes. In a pioneering subscription model, runners rent a pair of Cloudneos for £25 a month and return them once they’re worn out, to be swapped for a new pair. On is so far the only sportswear brand to take ownership of end of life, thus addressing running’s waste problem. (Performance shoes generally wear out after 300 miles; most brands have focused sustainability efforts on using recycled materials.)
“We’re ambitious to create a new kind of sports brand; we spend 50 days a year in the lab with our teams,” says Allemann. On now makes shoes and apparel from captured carbon emissions, using a process called CleanCloud — it created its own supply chain that turns emissions into pellets, then into yarns and soles, in partnership with three external firms.
The company is also pushing into different categories. Roger Federer’s 2019 investment saw On’s segue into tennis. Apparel is the next big focus. Belgian designer Tim Coppens, whose eponymous label is sold in Dover Street Market, was hired in 2022 to head up the apparel line. The kit is slick, with no big bold logos in sight, and it works well in the gym or down the pub.
“You go from being a shoe brand to a full sportswear brand,” says Allemann. Pick-up for apparel is strongest in China, where On has 22 stores. In the past year, the company opened two stores in London, a second in New York and 10 more in China, as well as in Paris and Miami. Portland and Austin are next. On is also sold in speciality stores (Runners Need, Achilles Heel), mainstream shops (Foot Locker, Bloomingdale’s) and fashion-forward retailers (Net-a-Porter, END).
But there’s work to do to turn on Gen Z shoppers; its demographic is predominantly 35-55. Introducing baggier apparel fits, athleisure pieces and partnerships with young athletes such as 21-year-old tennis star Ben Shelton form part of this strategy, as do ongoing collaborations with LVMH-owned Loewe that have increased its fashion plate.
“It’s a marathon, not a sprint,” says Allemann. Shareholders might be keeping an eye on the podiums and the pavements, but the founders’ ambitions are looking skyward, towards the clouds.
