FT : Russia’s surprising consumer spending boom

Russia’s surprising consumer spending boom
Heavy government expenditure and labour shortages have led to a sharp rise in real wages and consumption but the economy risks overheating

Immediately following Russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine in 2022, Anton*, a restaurateur in St Petersburg, feared the worst for his business.

Foreign visitors disappeared. Interest rates soared as Russia anticipated an economic collapse fuelled by western sanctions. Locals had no time for eating out, he says.

But Anton need not have worried: over the past two years the situation has completely reversed. Russians are flush with extra cash — and eager to part with it.

As the war has dragged on, rising salaries in a booming wartime defence industry have forced civilian businesses to follow suit in order to attract workers at a time of acute labour shortages. The result is that Russia has unexpectedly found itself in the midst of a consumer spending boom.

“Real wages are skyrocketing,” says Janis Kluge, an expert on Russia’s economy with the German Institute for International and Security Affairs. “You have people who hardly earned any money before the full-scale invasion . . . who suddenly have huge amounts of money.”

Real wages have grown by almost 14 per cent, and the consumption of goods and services by around 25 per cent, according to Rosstat, the Russian state statistics agency.


A further bump in real wages of up to 3.5 per cent is expected this year, alongside an expected 3 per cent jump in real disposable income, according to Russia’s Center for Macroeconomic Analysis and Short-Term Forecasting. The unemployment rate, forecast to hit between 7 and 8 per cent in 2022, is at 2.6 per cent — a record post-Soviet low.

This explosive pay increase is being felt across the socio-economic spectrum, dramatically transforming life for a swath of blue-collar workers.

Weavers, who were earning the rouble equivalent of $250-$350 a month in December 2021, can now earn as much as Rbs120,000 ($1,400) a month, says political scientist Ekaterina Kurbangaleeva. The average salary for long-distance truck drivers has risen 38 per cent year on year.

At the same time, western sanctions and Russian capital controls have grounded funds from wealthy citizens, driving up the luxury sector and giving Moscow and St Petersburg, long famed for its culture, the air of modern-day boomtowns.

One Moscow resident says she and her husband have been keeping a tally of the number of luxury vehicles spotted outside their high-end apartment complex. A neighbour has been showing off photos of his pet lion.

“Everyone who is upper-middle class, they’re just enjoying a really good life,” says Sergei Ishkov, a Moscow investor and entrepreneur, highlighting the number of new restaurants and a booming Russian ecommerce market.

One Russian oligarch told the FT that “almost everyone I know who left Russia after February 2022 and either came back or travels there says Moscow is the best city in the world.”

For many Russians, there is a feeling that their finances are getting better. More than 13 per cent of Russian people rate their financial situation as “good” — the highest since records began in 1999, says Rosstat. Those rating it as “bad” or “very bad” is also at an all-time low, about 14 and 1 per cent respectively.

Now the question is how long the party can last and what the consequences may be.

Economists point out that the boom has largely been fuelled by state spending, investing directly in the defence industry and through support to other sectors, such as agriculture, infrastructure and the real estate market.

The central bank has fought to counter such initiatives and rising core inflation of 8.7 per cent, notably keeping its interest rate at 16 per cent since December 2023.

Some economists forecast a slowdown as soon as this autumn.

“If one would just look at the numbers, the macroeconomic policies of Russia are completely [unbalanced],” says Iikka Korhonen, director of the Bank of Finland Institute for Emerging Economies.

“It tells you about the spillover of this big spending boom on other sectors of the economy,” he says, pointing to an increase in prices. “So far they haven’t really been able to get inflation down and it has been a worry for the government and the central bank.”

For now, the newfound wealth of Russian consumers is reshaping the domestic economy and society itself.

The demographics that have seen the biggest change in income are those working for the military and groups of blue-collar and grey-collar workers, says Kurbangaleeva, the political scientist. A courier can now earn Rbs200,000 a month — the same as members of the Russian Academy of Sciences, made up of some of the country’s leading academics.

“People are getting these higher salaries,” says Alexandra Prokopenko, a fellow at the Carnegie Russia Eurasia Center. “So what are Russian people doing? They’re consuming like crazy and this consumption creates domestic demand.”


Retailers and consumer businesses are rushing to respond. Rostic’s, Russia’s KFC successor, plans to open up 100 new stores this year, while takeaway coffee consumption in the country has never been higher. Domestic tourism is also thriving.

A person from a Russian travel booking company notes that due to sanctions, which had restricted the ability of airlines to expand and service their fleet, demand for internal flights was soaring even though airfares are rising. “For almost the first time, it has become profitable for airlines to fly around Russia,” the person says.

Those with previously low incomes are increasing their demand for durable goods such as better housing or cars as well as services, including home repairs, tourism and dining, says Olga Belenkaya, head of the macroeconomic analysis department at Moscow-based brokerage Finam.

Income distribution is also changing, according to some business owners. “Our customers used to be a creative class and young people. Many have left,” says Albert Razilov, founder of the limited-edition footwear brand Mest, whose sales are nearly three times above prewar level. “Our main clients now are adult men, middle managers of large companies, or business owners often involved in import substitution or IT. They now have money to experiment.”

The outflow of capital from Russia has also slowed down. In the aftermath of the invasion, the central bank cited capital flight as a risk to financial stability, but recently removed it from the list of concerns.

“In the upper segment, it’s clear: people have a lot of money, they have nowhere to spend it, so they spend it on experiences,” says Anton, the St Petersburg restaurateur. “If earlier they withdrew money, opened some accounts, bought apartments in Montenegro, now all this money is in the country.”

The effects of that are becoming more apparent across a variety of sectors.

Private schools in Russia have seen a growth in demand with a record number of parents paying school fees, for example. On the domestic Russian art market, some pieces are commanding record prices from collectors. Russian auction houses have already raked in more sales in the first half of 2024 than they did annually in any year before the war started, according to an analysis of auction data by the internet project ARTinvestment.RU.

“The internal market is growing because there are still people who want to buy something,” says one Russian art dealer who requested anonymity to discuss the market dynamics freely.

Other sectors, such as leisure, are reaping the benefits of the spending boom too.

Sasha Skolov, creative director of Sila Vetra, a sailing company courting Russia’s middle and upper middle class, says many of its customers — either because of travel restrictions, difficulties getting visas or exorbitant airfare prices — were seeking adventures inside the country, something that never would have happened before the invasion.

The country’s premium market is adapted to give high-end customers the offerings they are used to. “Hipsters who used to go to Italian coffee shops demanding the best specialty coffee in the world can find this specialty coffee in [Russia’s] Altai Mountains,” he says. “This is a phenomenon that has never existed before.”

Russia’s consumer spending boom is a radically different outcome than economists were expecting at the onset of war.

“Two years ago we were expecting a completely different playbook, essentially one in which Russia will have an economic downturn driven by a collapse of exports and unemployment,” says Kluge, of the German Institute for International and Security Affairs. Instead, we are in “a completely different scenario”.


Shortly after the invasion, the Russian central bank solidified the so-called financial fortress, raising interest rates from 9.5 to 20 per cent overnight and introducing capital controls. Russian exports proved more resilient than expected and it was able to secure most of the goods that were subject to sanctions through parallel imports from third-party countries.

By autumn 2022, the Russian government had significantly ramped up military procurements, says Korhonen, the economist. “That has been powering the economy ever since.”

Compared with 2021, the last prewar year, budget expenditures have increased by 20 per cent, while the state’s share in the Russian economy has reached an estimated 50-70 per cent. Russia’s central bank identifies government spending as the main driver of GDP growth, according to a report published in June.

War-related spending — including the production of machinery and clothing for the front line, fuel production and payments to those fighting and dying in Ukraine — rose substantially, from about 23 per cent pre-invasion to almost 40 per cent now.

One of the biggest contributors to the recent consumer boom has been a series of subsidised mortgage programmes.

Shortly after the invasion, the Kremlin significantly ramped up its “mortgages for everyone” programme, which offered cheap loans for new construction that were far lower than the key interest rate. In June, the loan was below 8 per cent compared with 16 per cent, respectively.

“The authorities had to demonstrate that, despite all the shocks and sanctions, people would be able to buy an apartment,” says Sergei Skatov, an expert in the Russian real estate market, pointing out that home ownership carries “the highest value” in post-Soviet society.

The yawning gap between the official rate and mortgage rate created “excessive arbitrage for the new-build market” and drove record sales. The total value of mortgages held in Russia grew 34.5 per cent last year. Though that programme was phased out on July 1, following repeated pleas from the central bank, the effects have been lasting.

“The financial departments of the largest developers can now be compared to investment banks,” says Skatov. “Developers can sell nothing for a whole year and still remain profitable and solvent: they have already sold everything that they could build in the next three years.”

The sharp increase in public spending has alarmed some fiscal conservatives who along with the central bank had been successful at reining in state-subsidised programmes. Now, such funding mechanisms have become more and more prevalent.

“The booming real estate market is boosted by this [state-sponsored] programme of subsidised mortgages,” says one former high-ranking Russian government official.

“Agriculture. Defence. The oil and gas industry — they are financed by the same mechanisms. Before the war we were trying to [limit] this mechanism. It used to be on an exceptional basis — operation by operation.”

To cover a yawning budget deficit, Russia has had to tap into the National Wealth Fund’s assets. As a result, its liquid assets have dropped from Rbs8.7tn in January 2022, or 6.6 per cent of GDP, to Rbs4.6tn at the end of June.

Korhonen notes that while the three-year budget plan foresaw a cut in government spending in 2025 — indicating that the authorities had expected the war to be over by then — a recent push to increase taxes suggests the government may now be more pessimistic and will need to “keep the spending levels fairly elevated”.

The central bank leadership has openly pushed back against higher government spending with little success. Instead, they continue to apply traditional monetary policy measures, such as raising rates, in an attempt to prevent the economy from overheating and inflation taking off.

“The central bank can say they’re not happy but that’s it,” says the former government official. “Who would listen?”

Other economists note that the fact not even the central bank’s record high interest rate has been able to cool consumer growth showed the degree to which the economy was now influenced by state spending.

“The central bank is very conservative,” says Vasily Astrov, a Russia expert at the Vienna Institute for International Economic Studies. “It has applied textbook, real macroeconomic recipes, so they have been tightening,” he adds. “The paradox is that . . . even with these very drastic measures — a very tight monetary policy — they have not been able to cool down the economy.”

The former senior official agrees that the central bank’s traditional monetary policy mechanisms are no longer working as they once were. “The [central bank] built the financial fortress,” the person says. “The economy is much more resilient [but] it’s not responding to the central bank’s tools.”

That may be changing. Belenkaya, of Finam, says her brokerage is already forecasting a slowdown in consumer activity, due to an anticipated slowdown in wage growth and ongoing monetary policy tightening.

“I don’t think real incomes can continue to grow . . . as they currently are,” says the Bank of Finland’s Korhonen. “Production growth rates will start to come down this year. There are simply not enough new people.”

Anton, the St Petersburg restaurateur, has seen this first-hand. “The staff shortage is colossal,” he says. “There are no cooks, no waiters, no bartenders . . . Emigration has crippled me because a lot of guys from the service sector have left.”

Labour shortages are widespread. The defence sector is short of about 160,000 specialists, according to deputy prime minister Denis Manturov, despite half a million people moving from civilian jobs to defence-related ones in the last year and a half. Russia’s labour ministry forecasts a shortage of 2.4mn workers by 2030.

In time, Russia could find itself in “an Iranian scenario where money is trapped in the country, resulting in exorbitant real estate prices, inflated stock market values and low quality of life,” says the Russian oligarch.

The whole problem with the Russian economy is that the big unknown variable in this equation is the war, says Prokopenko, of the Carnegie Russia Eurasia Center. “The whole economic situation becomes a function of what’s going on on the front line.”

FT : ECB poised to close lender owned by longtime adviser to Prince Andrew

ECB poised to close lender owned by longtime adviser to Prince Andrew
Rowland family’s Banque Havilland faces loss of licence over alleged compliance and anti-money laundering failings

The European Central Bank is preparing to withdraw the operating licence for Banque Havilland, the Luxembourg-based lender owned by Prince Andrew’s longtime financial adviser David Rowland and his family.

The bank has been informed of the ECB’s draft decision, said two people familiar with the matter.

Banque Havilland has been mired in controversy in recent years and faced multiple regulatory probes.

ECB officials believe that under the ownership of the Rowland family — best known in Britain for patriarch David’s former role as Conservative party treasurer and his close personal links to the Duke of York, who borrowed millions from the bank — Banque Havilland has had repeated compliance and anti-money laundering failures.

The ECB declined to comment. Banque Havilland did not respond to a request for comment. David Rowland could not be reached for comment.

Rowland made his fortune in the 1970s and 1980s in daring and often complicated financial investments in shipping, natural resources and property.

The draft decision is not yet final as it must be approved by the ECB’s board of governors, although the process is usually regarded as a formality and is expected to take place quickly.

Once the decision is taken, the bank’s home supervisory authority, Luxembourg’s Commission de Surveillance du Secteur Financier, will formally announce the decision to revoke the licence, ending the bank’s ability to operate in Europe.

CSSF did not respond to a request for comment.

The Luxembourg bank is Havilland’s central operation. The future of its branches in Dubai, Switzerland, Liechtenstein and Monaco, which are outside the ECB’s regulatory jurisdiction and may be able to continue operating under their own local licences, remains unclear.

Regulators in Switzerland and Liechtenstein have imposed a restriction of new clients being taken on by Havilland as a result of the pending ECB decision.

Finma, the Swiss regulator, said: “[We are monitoring] ongoing compliance with the relevant legal standards by the Zurich branch of Banque Havilland, Liechtenstein, and all other banks licensed in Switzerland and their branches.”

Banque Havilland’s British arm was shut down last year after the Financial Conduct Authority imposed fines of £10mn against the lender and £353,000 against its branch chief executive, David Rowland’s son Edmund, for putting together an investment scheme at the behest of Saudi and Emirati clients that was designed to crash Qatar’s currency, according to an internal bank presentation quoted by the regulator in its enforcement notice. The bank has challenged the FCA’s decision.

The head of the bank’s Monaco branch is meanwhile on trial for alleged money-laundering violations. Prosecutors accuse him of accepting huge cash deposits from clients and failing to raise compliance concerns about their origins or the clients’ identities, allegations that he denies.

Revoking a bank’s licence is the ultimate power of the ECB, which can take such decisions on its own initiative or at the request of a national authority. The last time it did so was to withdraw the licence of Baltic International Bank in Latvia at the request of the local supervisor in March 2023.

Previously an arm of Icelandic bank Kaupthing, which collapsed in the 2008 financial crisis, the Luxembourg bank was bought by the Rowland family in 2009 and renamed after Havilland Hall, the stately home owned by David on the tax haven of Guernsey.

The Duke of York attended the celebrations to inaugurate the new bank in 2009 and played a key role in securing the opening of its Monaco branch by lobbying Monaco’s hereditary ruler Prince Albert to secure a local licence for Havilland, the Daily Mail revealed in 2021.

David Rowland in 2017 personally paid off a £1.5mn loan the bank had made to the duke, who was under financial pressure at the time, according to media reports.

At least seven of David’s eight children are employed or have previously been employed by the bank.

According to its 2023 financial statements, the bank has assets of just over €1.35bn and a €463mn loan book. It has enjoyed particularly strong growth in Liechtenstein, where at least €200mn of new money from wealthy clients was taken on in 2022.

Asked by the Liechtensteiner Volksblatt newspaper in 2022 about the impact on the bank of EU sanctions on Russia, group chief executive Marc Arand complained public opinion often “confused the issue” of sanctions compliance and said “all financial market participants come into contact with Russia in one way or another”.

>>> Diamond Offshore and Noble Corporation (NE) announce expiration of the the w

Diamond Offshore and Noble Corporation (NE) announce expiration of the the waiting period under the Hart-Scott-Rodino Antitrust Improvements Act of 1976, in relation to the pending merger between Noble and Diamond (16.26 +0.42)
  • Completion of the transaction is subject to the satisfaction of the remaining customary closing conditions, including approval by Diamond's stockholders and the receipt of informal clearance by the Australian Competition & Consumer Commission.
  • A special meeting of Diamond stockholders to vote on the transaction is currently scheduled for 8:30 a.m. CDT on August 27, 2024.

>>> US After Hours Summary: COUR +20.4%, DECK +10.3%, MHK +10.2%, UCTT +6.4% hig

After Hours Summary: COUR +20.4%, DECK +10.3%, MHK +10.2%, UCTT +6.4% higher on earnings; DXCM -37.5%, ZYXI -22.4%, OLN -8.7%, SAM -3.2% lower on earnings

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: COUR +20.4%, DECK +10.3%, MHK +10.2% (also initiating additional restructuring actions), NSC +7.8%, UVE +7.3%, UCTT +6.4%, EGO +6.2%, BYD +3.8%, TXRH +3.6%, BJRI +3.4%, KNSL +3.3%, SSNC +3.3%, VLTO +2.2%, VRSN +2.2% (also approves additional $1.11 bln for repurchases), SKX +2% (also authorizes new $1 bln share repurchase program), HTH +1.8%, DOC +1.7%, BKR +1.2%, NOV +0.8%, ALSN +0.7%, SKYW +0.6%, APPF +0.3%, ENSG +0.3%, LHX +0.2%, CUBI +0.1% (also adopts repurchase plan), EXPO +0.1%, TFII +0.1%

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: CLLS +13.7% (FDA has granted Orphan Drug and Rare Pediatric Disease Designation Status to UCART22), INO +2.3% (receives advanced therapy medicinal product certificate from E.M.A.), AAOI +1.7% (facilities suffered no known damage from Typhoon Gaemi), BPRN +1.6% (receives approvals from shareholders and regulatory authorities to acquire Cornerstone Financial), PCB +0.9% (authorizes share repurchase of up to 5% of shares), HON +0.8% (ISSC enters into license agreement and acquires assets from HON), BOC +0.5% (authorizes new $20 mln share repurchase program), SWK +0.4% (increases dividend), RTX +0.3% (awarded $1.94 bln U.S. Missile Defense Agency contract), ET +0.2% (increases dividend), AZN +0.2% (FDA Advisory Committee reviewed Imfinzi), COHR +0.1% (completes 100th polished mirror segment)

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: DXCM -37.5% (also authorizes new $750 mln share repurchase program), ZYXI -22.4%, OLN -8.7%, HMN -6.5%, CUZ -4.7%, SAM -3.2%, SBCF -2.3%, PFS -2.2%, ABCB -0.7%, JNPR -0.7%, LPLA -0.7%, TREE -0.6%, ASB -0.5%, TBBK -0.4%, WY -0.2%, DLR -0.1%, FIX -0.1%

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: TNDM -7.5% (in sympathy with weak DXCM earnings), PODD -6.3% (in sympathy with weak DXCM earnings), VOYA -1.6% (increases dividend), GEV -1.3% (report of investigation into failure of wind blade, according to State House News), WY -0.2% (acquires acreage of timberlands in Alabama for $244 mln), CAE -0.1% (CFO to step down), DDD -0.1% (provides litigation updates)

>>> US Close Dow +0.20% S&P -0.51% Nasdaqq -0.93% Russell +1.26%

Closing Market Summary
The stock market exhibited mixed action at the index level today, but the vibe under the surface was positive through the entire session. Advancers led decliners by a 2-to-1 margin at the NYSE and by a 3-to-2 margin at the Nasdaq.

The S&P 500 (-0.5%) and Nasdaq Composite (-0.9%) traded above and below their prior closing levels, following the fickle price action mega cap shares. Meanwhile, the Dow Jones Industrial Average (+0.2%) and Russell 2000 (+1.3%) were either mostly or entirely positive today.

The fickle nature of mega cap stocks was evident in the performance of the Vanguard Mega Cap Growth ETF (MGK), which traded up as much as 0.9% at its high and as low as 2.1% at its low. The equal-weighted S&P 500, however, settled with a 0.1% gain amid rebound action elsewhere.

The upside bias stemmed from buy-the-dip interest after yesterday's solid sell off.
Outsized moves in either direction were reserved for names with specific catalysts. Honeywell (HON 202.45, -11.20, -5.2%) and Ford Motor (F 11.16, -2.51, -18.4%) were losing standouts after reporting earnings news. Meanwhile, IBM (IBM 191.98, +7.96, +4.3%) and ServiceNow (NOW 848.79, +97.92, +13.4%) were winning standouts after reporting earnings.

The 10-yr note yield declined three basis points to 4.26% and the 2-yr note yield rose two basis points to 4.44%. Treasuries were reacting to the this morning's economic releases, which were in-line with the market's soft landing expectation and also acted as support for equities. Also, today's $44 billion 7-yr note auction met strong demand.

  • Nasdaq Composite:+14.5% YTD
  • S&P 500: +13.2% YTD
  • Russell 2000: +9.7% YTD
  • S&P Midcap 400: +8.8% YTD
  • Dow Jones Industrial Average: +6.0% YTD

Reviewing today's economic data:
  • Q2 GDP-Adv. 2.8% (consensus 1.9%); Prior 1.4%; Q2 Chain Deflator-Adv. 2.3% (consensus 2.6%); Prior 3.1%
    • The key takeaway from the report is that it didn't show any breakdown in consumer spending. In fact, consumer spending growth accelerated, increasing 2.3% on the heels of a 1.5% increase in the first quarter.
  • Weekly Initial Claims 235K (consensus 240K); Prior was revised to 245K from 243K; Weekly Continuing Claims 1.851 mln; Prior was revised to 1.860 mln from 1.867 mln
    • The key takeaway from the report is that there hasn't been an alarming jump in initial claims -- a leading indicator -- to even higher levels; therefore, a conclusion will be drawn that the labor market is seeing some normal slowing as opposed to a rapid deterioration.
  • June Durable Orders -6.6% (Briefing.com consensus 0.4%); Prior 0.1%; June Durable Goods -ex transportation 0.5% (Briefing.com consensus 0.2%); Prior -0.1%
    • The key takeaway from the report is that the weakness was driven by a large drop in nondefense aircraft and parts orders, which are volatile. An added takeaway is that business spending in June was quite solid, evidenced by the 1.0% increase in new orders for nondefense capital goods excluding aircraft.

Friday's economic calendar features:
  • 8:30 ET: June Personal Income (consensus 0.4%; prior 0.5%), Personal Spending (consensus 0.3%; prior 0.2%), PCE Prices (consensus 0.1%; prior 0.0%), and core PCE Prices (consensus 0.2%; prior 0.1%)
  • 10:00 ET: Final July University of Michigan Consumer Sentiment (Briefing.com consensus 66.0; prior 66.0)

WWD : Hermès Maintains Its Double-digit Pace

Hermès Maintains Its Double-digit Pace
The French firm said it is benefiting from a “flight to quality,” which sent second-quarter revenues up 11.5 percent.

PARIS — Hermès International raced ahead of its luxury peers once again, riding a “flight to quality” in the U.S. and China to achieve an 11.5 percent gain in revenues in the second quarter to 3.7 billion euros.

At constant exchange rates, the increase stood at 13.3 percent, and the double-digit pace was maintained in all regions, demonstrating how higher-end brands are better resisting the global slowdown in luxury spending.

The results handily beat forecasts. HSBC had forecast second-quarter organic sales growth of 10.7 percent and first-half EBIT margin of 42 percent.

Still, momentum at Hermès is weakening, as sales in the first quarter were up 17 percent at constant exchange rates.

Like other luxury players, Hermès came up against tough comps, a downturn in mall traffic in Greater China, and substantial currency headwinds. It tallied the negative impact of exchange rates at 207 million euros in the first half.

Partly reflecting the flight from luxury of aspirational consumers, sales of silk and textiles fell 5.6 percent in the second quarter, and watches sank 4.9 percent.

Bernstein luxury analyst Luca Solca applauded the robust gains in the brand’s most iconic categories, with leather goods logging 17.9 percent organic growth, and ready-to-wear and accessories improving 15.1 percent.

Among standout handbag styles were the Della Cavalleria Elan, and a studded, miniature version of its famous Kelly.

Hermès chief executive officer Axel Dumas characterized the second-quarter results as solid, and highlighted continued dynamism in the American market, which advanced 13.3 percent. “When there are tougher times, there’s a flight to quality,” he told a webcast Thursday evening after the results were released.

Similarly, he said Chinese consumers are “looking for high-quality products, which is good for us.”

What’s more, “they don’t necessarily want the logo to be affixed to what they buy. And so there is this change, which we believe is underway, and is also positive for us.”

Second-quarter revenues at constant exchange rates gained 19.5 percent in Japan, 18.2 percent in Europe, 5.5 percent in Asia Pacific and 99.4 percent in other regions, primarily the Middle East.

Hermès credited local clients, not bargain-hunting Chinese consumers, for the gains in Japan, where it opened two new stores in the first half.

Meanwhile, business in European stores is being pumped up by flush tourists from China, the Middle East and the U.S.

Dumas said trends remain unchanged in the first weeks of July and sounded a sanguine note about the balance of the year.

“Hermès is resilient and solid in the face of a complex and challenging environment. We are forging ahead with confidence and humility,” he said, seated next to chief financial officer Éric du Halgouët, broadcasting from the brand’s airy boutique on the Rue de Sèvres.

Net income in the first half advanced 7 percent to 2.38 billion euros, whereas profits plunged by double digits at luxury rivals LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton and Kering.

Bernstein’s Solca noted the EBIT margin at Hermès remains the highest in the industry, and just 50bps lower than anticipated.

At the revenue level, organic sales at LVMH key fashion and leather goods division rose 1 percent year-on-year in the three months to June 30, while group revenues at Kering fell 11 percent in the second quarter, both in reported and comparable terms. (Sales at Kering’s linchpin Gucci brand plummeted 19 percent.)

The poor second-quarter results have dragged on luxury stocks. Shares in Kering fell 7.5 percent on Thursday, while LVMH slipped 1 percent and Compagnie Financière Richemont lost 1.7 percent.

On Thursday, Hermès said it would continue to invest strongly in its production capacity, communications and store network, with expansions in the pipeline for boutiques in Atlanta, Singapore, Shenzhen, China, and Lille, France.

Four leather goods workshops are currently under construction in France, with the first coming onstream this fall, and the others opening over the next three years.

Dumas held out hope its sporty new Hermès Cut watch, unveiled at Watches & Wonders in Geneva last April, would improve its fortunes in that category in the second half, while acknowledging that jewelry is currently outperforming timepieces.

Sales of perfume and beauty products grew 5.6 percent in the second quarter with the “other” category, mainly jewelry and home products, improving 13 percent.