FT : Will Trump’s tariff climbdown save the US from recession?

Will Trump’s tariff climbdown save the US from recession?
Markets cheered the deal with China. But away from Wall Street, confidence is plummeting and prices are on the rise

For Stonemaier Games, it will be a roll of the dice whether the US-China trade truce can save Christmas.

President Donald Trump’s deal with Beijing last week came just in time for the tabletop game publisher based in St Louis, Missouri, to plan orders for year’s end with its Shenzhen-based supplier at reduced tariff rates.

But the holiday production run will still be “much more modest than usual”, says Jamey Stegmaier, head of the privately owned company that produces strategy games such as Wingspan. “There’s too much uncertainty.”

The company has filed a lawsuit with 10 other small businesses to challenge Trump’s authority to impose tariffs. “There was no due process, just an agent of chaos raising tariffs from 20 per cent to 145 per cent in the span of one week,” Stegmaier adds.

On Wall Street, the memory of “liberation day” is fast receding, with the benchmark S&P 500 soaring back to near-record levels this year having recorded heavy losses after the disorder of April 2.

But for Main Street, the pain is set to endure, with the president’s haphazard approach to overhauling the global trading system harming confidence in an economy it was designed to help.

While April’s consumer price index rose less than expected, most economists believe the cost of goods will soon increase. Diane Swonk, chief economist at KPMG US, says last month’s reading could be “the last subdued inflation print for a while”.

And the trade tensions are not over yet. Another cliff edge in the president’s trade policy — a fresh 90-day deadline for talks with China after which tariffs could be pushed up again — has added to a climate of uncertainty.

“The market has overbought the deal,” says Steve Hanke, a Johns Hopkins University economist who worked as an adviser to Ronald Reagan. “Trump still thinks he’s running Trump Enterprises, not the US economy.”


While the détente has cut the chances of a serious recession, the US president’s handling of the trade war could continue to cast a shadow for the rest of 2025, unwinding years of stellar growth and raising the prospect of a bout of stagflation that would leave policymakers at the Federal Reserve in a tough position.

Concerns have been intensified by the decision of Moody’s to strip the US of its triple A credit rating, as it warned federal deficits will widen to almost 9 per cent of GDP by 2035, up from 6.4 per cent last year.

The anxiety extends to every economy tied to the US. Valdis Dombrovskis, the EU’s economics commissioner, tells the FT the global trade war has had “quite a sizeable negative impact” on its own forecasts, which revealed a sharp downgrade to the global growth outlook. It “creates negative confidence effects which affect first and foremost investment decisions”.

The US-China deal “undid a decent amount of the damage”, says Jason Furman, economist at Harvard University who worked in Barack Obama’s Council of Economic Advisers. “But we’re still going to get a bunch of inflation, we’re still going to get slower growth. And we still don’t know how this play is going to end.”

The relief among global investors following US Treasury secretary Scott Bessent’s agreement with Chinese vice-premier He Lifeng in Geneva a week ago is understandable.

At its height, the chaos pushed the effective US tariff rate at close to 26.8 per cent — the highest since 1903, according to the Yale Budget Lab, and ushered in a month-long freeze in US-China trade.

A collapse in transpacific shipping volumes led retailers to warn of empty shelves — and the president to tell US children to content themselves with “two dolls instead of 30” this festive season.

US companies responded by throttling production.

Church & Dwight, makers of Arm & Hammer baking soda and Trojan condoms, said it would sell or shut down its Flawless hair remover, Spinbrush electric toothbrush and Waterpik showerhead businesses to mitigate a “significant portion” of its exposure to tariffs, which it estimated at $190mn over the next 12 months.


Even longtime supporters of Trump’s pro-US manufacturing policies were rattled.

“On January 1, I felt good. Trump had a pro-business, pro-manufacturing plan and I was positive,” says Harry Moser, president of the Reshoring Initiative, an organisation that supports US companies’ efforts to bring production back home. “On April 2, I felt he had complicated the issue and gone way too high on most of the countries, including our allies.”

At meetings of finance ministers in Washington last month, Bessent began attempts to steer the US administration towards a détente. The Treasury secretary tried to reassure his counterparts the period of peak instability had passed, participants said.

That culminated in the agreement that averted a hard decoupling of the Chinese and US economies as they slashed respective tariffs by 115 percentage points for 90 days. Hopes for trade pacts with other countries were buoyed by an earlier US-UK accord.

Yet even as the dust settles, companies and investors are still warning of enduring damage.

The average US effective tariff rate remains at 17.8 per cent, according to the Yale Budget Lab, more than seven times the 2.5 per cent level Trump inherited going into his second term.

The US-China tariffs “are still much higher than they were a few months ago, as are the tariffs from many other countries”, says Karen Dynan, an economist at the Peterson Institute and a former chief economist in the US Treasury under Obama. “So you still have tariffs putting a meaningful amount of strain on consumers and businesses.”

Despite few expecting a return of levies as high as 145 per cent, the president’s barriers on Chinese products still look set to lead to higher prices at US retailers.

Many helped stave off some price increases by frontloading imports ahead of April 2, but that advantage is expected to dissipate quickly.

Walmart, the largest retailer with more than $550bn in US sales, warned of more expensive back-to-school supplies and holiday gifts later this year. “Even at the reduced levels, the higher tariffs will result in higher prices,” said chief executive Doug McMillon in an earnings call. (Responding in a social media post, Trump urged Walmart to “EAT THE TARIFFS and not charge valued customers ANYTHING”.)

The Yale Budget Lab says the average US family would pay $2,800 more for the same basket of products purchased last year, should tariffs remain at their current level, with lower-income homes more exposed.

Chinese products being sold in the US have already seen marked increases in retail prices, according to analysis of high-frequency data from PriceStats by Alberto Cavallo of Harvard Business School.

But it is not only tariffs that are pushing costs up. The scrapping on May 2 of the so-called “de minimis” exemption, which meant importers could bring in products from China worth less than $800, not only free of duties but with next to no paperwork, is set to further add to prices and limit choice.

“What we ended up doing with de minimis is we turned supply chains into fast food — you expect it fast and cheap. As a consumer, we just get on the internet and say, ‘I want to order this shirt, I want to pay the lowest price possible, and I want it tomorrow night’,” says Bernie Hart, vice-president of customs at global logistics firm Flexport. “We’re slowly turning that off.”

The change is already weighing on corporate thinking. AlphaSense data compiled for the Financial Times showed the number of analysts’ calls mentioning de minimis shot up from five for the whole 2024 to 28 times over the past 30 days alone.


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After the Geneva talks, the tariff rate was also lowered on goods worth less than $800, but importers still face a stack of paperwork that for many small businesses will prove nigh on impossible to fulfil.

“The level of granularity that is expected is quite high,” says Brie Carere, executive vice-president and chief customer officer for FedEx to analysts last week. “So there’s not just an immediate financial barrier. There is an audit, a compliance barrier.”

Even so, many US companies believe the scrapping of the de minimis exemption will help them in the long run by hurting Chinese ecommerce rivals such as Temu and Shein more than themselves.

“Duty-free ultrafast fashion that has flooded the US market over the past few years undoubtedly put some pressure on our price competitiveness,” said James Reinhart, chief executive of online thrift store ThredUp on its latest analysts’ call. “We believe the closure of the de minimis exemption is likely to cause higher prices for these goods and to reduce production volumes.”

Government officials say the US economy — the standout global performer since the pandemic — remains strong.

In recent weeks, Bessent has claimed Trump’s plans to make his 2017 tax cuts permanent and deregulate housing, energy and finance will, together with tariffs, usher in a “golden age”.

Arthur Laffer, an economist best known for the eponymous “Laffer curve” which holds that lowering tax rates can increase the revenue raised, says extending the 2017 cuts, which Congress is expected to do over the course of the summer, would produce “spectacularly wonderful” results for the US economy.

Others disagree, saying the measures raise the prospect of a fiscal crisis. Moody’s said the extension would add more than $4tn to US deficits over the next decade, citing it as part of the reason for downgrading its credit rating.

Laffer — an adviser to several Republican US presidents, including Richard Nixon, Reagan and Trump — believes the administration will eventually lower tariffs to levels that boost free trade.

“There’s a good chance that we’re at a transformational moment in time,” Laffer tells the FT. “It’s not all worked out. We have a long way to go. But it looks brighter and brighter every single day from my perspective.”

Yet while the hard data show little signs of damage from tariffs so far, surveys of business and consumer confidence point to a dour mood. The University of Michigan’s closely watched sentiment measure hit its second-lowest level on record in May and showed even Republicans were souring on Trump’s economic policies.

Misty Skolnick, co-owner of Uncle Jerry’s Pretzels, a small, family-owned bakery operating out of Pennsylvania, says sales are already down as the chaos of April 2 creates a “ripple effect” throughout the economy. “People are unsure of what’s happening,” she says. “Spending money on an artisanal pretzel isn’t necessarily at the top of their mind at this time.”


Many economists still predict anaemic growth.

“The impact on consumer and business sentiment has been very negative, [hitting] capex and spending decisions in the coming months,” says Nikolay Markov, an economist at Pictet Asset Management, who is still forecasting a 1.1 per cent expansion in 2025, less than half last year’s level of 2.8 per cent. “There’s an upside but not to the extent that we need to upgrade now.”

Whether or not higher prices become baked into businesses’ and households’ calculations of future inflation will be crucial in determining if the Fed will feel able to cut interest rates from their current level of between 4.25 to 4.5 per cent.

The Fed’s vice-chair, Philip Jefferson, said on May 14 that he had “adjusted down . . . expectations for economic growth this year” in the wake of the tariffs, which he predicted would fuel price growth if sustained.

How much of the tariff-based price shock will stick will also depend on whether companies feel that their customers will be willing to stomach higher prices.

The April CPI release showed signs of a fall in so-called discretionary spending — an indication that Trump’s policies might already be weighing on demand. Airlines and hotel room rates fell outright, while the cost of sporting events slumped by more than 12 per cent month on month.

Julie Drews, co-owner of beer specialists The Brew Shop, in Arlington, a prosperous suburb close to Washington, believes it could be difficult to pass on additional costs at a time when their customers have already faced wave after wave of inflation following the pandemic.

“I don’t want to raise prices again,” says Drews. “I can feel that people are still feeling sensitive.”

Vance Sine, a manager at retailer California Electric Supply, thinks his suppliers might leave him with little choice. “It almost seems like a cash grab — since everyone is increasing the prices, they jump in,” says Sine, whose business is in the city of Chula Vista, near the Mexican border.

For now, the sense of uncertainty persists. “There will be relief over the easing of tariffs, but [importers] cannot carry on as if nothing has happened,” says Peter Sand, of shipping data firm Xeneta. “If we have learnt anything in the past few months, it is to expect the unexpected.”

FT : Nippon Steel lifts US Steel investment pledge to $11bn in push to secure de

Nippon Steel lifts US Steel investment pledge to $11bn in push to secure deal
Japanese suitor is also promising to add thousands of jobs in bid to win over Donald Trump

Japan’s Nippon Steel has quadrupled its investment pledge in US Steel over the next few years in a major push to win over President Donald Trump and gain approval for the politically fraught takeover.

Nippon, whose bid for the American company was blocked by his predecessor Joe Biden and opposed by Trump on the campaign trail, has bumped up its capital commitment to $11bn by 2028, according to two people familiar with the matter.

The Japanese company has also promised to add tens of thousands of jobs over a period of years, the two people added.

The deal’s enterprise value remains $14.9bn, but the investment commitment is four times as big as the $2.7bn pledge reiterated by the Japanese steelmaker in January. The pledge includes $1bn to build a new steel mill, on which a further $3bn is expected to be spent after 2028, the people added. Reuters first reported the development.

During a meeting with Japanese Prime Minister Shigeru Ishiba in February, Trump said Nippon Steel had abandoned the acquisition but would “invest heavily” in the Pittsburgh-based steel producer. People close to Nippon Steel said it had not given up on making a full acquisition.

The efforts to push through Nippon Steel’s proposed takeover come as Japanese negotiators are seeking to lower a 24 per cent tariff on the country’s imports into the US introduced by the Trump administration. Japanese officials signalled their intent last week to hold out for a better agreement.

Since the transaction was first agreed in late 2023, it has been paralysed by national security and political concerns. Biden, Trump and then vice-president Kamala Harris all expressed worries about or outright opposed the deal on the presidential campaign trail, following stiff opposition from the United Steelworkers, America’s largest industrial union.

In April, Trump ordered a new national security review of the proposed transaction by the Committee on Foreign Investment in the US, which is set to conclude on Wednesday.

The same committee failed to reach a consensus under the Biden administration in December, with the former president then blocking the deal at the beginning of this year.

The takeover agreement stipulates the two companies must close the transaction by mid-June, meaning that a final blessing from the White House would be needed in a matter of weeks. “This should increase the chances Nippon is successful in acquiring US Steel,” said Christopher LaFemina, an analyst at Jefferies.

The two companies had sued the Biden administration, accusing it of blocking in order to serve the former president’s “personal political agenda” in the run-up to the election. The companies and the US government subsequently asked an appeals court to pause the litigation until June 5. Nippon is on the hook for a $565mn break fee if the deal collapses.

A person familiar with the situation described the latest development as “Trump trying to get everything he can out of the negotiation process”. 

The company and its advisers have tried to propose various structures in order to meet that demand, including one where investment in the US by the Japanese group would increase its equity position over time. However, say people familiar with the matter, such proposals have so far been rebuffed.

Nippon’s vice-chair Takahiro Mori has made numerous US trips over the past several months in the hopes of securing an agreement. Last week, he visited Washington, Indiana and Pennsylvania, according to a person familiar with the matter.

“Multinational companies now understand that the formula for getting Trump’s favour is to float big numbers,” said Todd Tucker, industrial policy and trade director at the Roosevelt Institute think-tank.

He cautioned that “the key hold-up to the deal has always been” whether Nippon can make its investment pledges enforceable under the terms of a steel industry labour contract, which usually includes specific investment schedules for certain facilities. 

US Steel and Nippon Steel declined to comment. The White House did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

FT : Traders dump Casino debt as fears grow over troubled grocer

Traders dump Casino debt as fears grow over troubled grocer
Investors cool on retail chain a little over a year after a restructuring led by billionaire Daniel Křetínský

The value of French grocer Casino’s debt has slumped to deeply distressed levels, as fears grow that continued weak earnings could trigger a breach of its loan covenants next year.

Casino, which has lost market share to rivals in France’s crowded food retail sector, has come under renewed pressure from debt markets in recent weeks, with traders now quoting a €1.4bn secured loan at 61 cents on the euro.

The deep discount to face value suggests lenders are braced for the prospect of steep losses, little over a year after Casino concluded a bruising restructuring in which more than €5bn of debt was wiped out and exchanged for equity. 

Casino’s previous owner, Jean-Charles Naouri, built the retailer into a global player with a series of highly leveraged takeovers. It owned a large portfolio of supermarkets and hypermarkets in France, coupled with an international business stretching from Asia to Latin America.

But after years of struggling under heavy debts, which left Casino starved of investment, the retailer was forced to capitulate and agree to a comprehensive debt restructuring in 2023, which saw Czech billionaire Daniel Křetínský take control.

The French supermarket group, which reported sales of almost €9bn last year, has a market value of less than €250mn. Its gross debt stood at €2bn at the end of 2024.

Clément Genelot, an equity analyst at Paris-based investment bank Bryan Garnier, wrote in a recent note that there were “still no signs of commercial recovery” at the cash-burning retailer and that the need for more capital from Křetínský, who owns a 53 per cent stake, cannot be ruled out.

A person close to Křetínský said he “always had in mind” that a second capital increase could be needed. The person added that while this could prompt negotiations with creditors, it would not entail a full-blown debt restructuring.

Several restructuring advisers told the Financial Times that they were actively seeking mandates with Casino’s different classes of creditors for any potential discussions, however.

Casino declined to comment.

Distressed debt investors said Casino’s weak earnings have driven fears of a looming covenant breach. The retailer’s auditors in March noted that a breach may lead lenders to request “immediate repayment” of their loans, some of which have cross-default clauses that could impact Casino’s other debts.

As part of last year’s restructuring Casino agreed to a set of strict covenants on the €1.4bn secured loan and a separate €711mn credit line from banks, which it has to comply with from September. Failing to do so could spark a further renegotiation of its debt. 

One of these terms dictates that the ratio of net debt to earnings in its core business must be below 8.34 times. Casino reported that this leverage ratio stood at 14.6 times at the end of March, up from 4.9 times a year earlier, as a result of its declining profits.

Genelot said Casino should still be able to comply with its debt terms by the end of the year, but there was a “high risk” of a covenant breach next year.

Rating agency Fitch has ranked Casino’s secured loan at CCC-, putting it in a bracket that indicates “substantial credit risk” where “default is a real possibility”.

Casino boasted a strong investment-grade credit rating a decade ago, while its owner Naouri was a stalwart of the French elite, widely lionised for his business acumen.

The portfolio he built has been dismantled as the group sold off stores and subsidiaries to reduce overheads and service its debt — although it has retained its valuable domestic network of inner-city stores, trading under brands including Monoprix and Franprix.

FT : China’s battery leader CATL surges on debut after biggest listing of 2025

China’s battery leader CATL surges on debut after biggest listing of 2025
Strong demand for secondary offering in Hong Kong expected to lift amount raised to $5.3bn

Shares in leading Chinese battery maker CATL soared more than 16 per cent on their first trading day in Hong Kong after the world’s biggest listing so far this year.

The secondary offering raised at least $4.6bn, with the amount set to rise to $5.3bn if an option allowing underwriters to sell more shares than planned is exercised.

It is among the largest offerings in Hong Kong by Chinese companies already listed on the mainland in recent years, with CATL also quoted in Shenzhen.

Founder Robin Zeng banged a gong to celebrate the start of trading at the Hong Kong stock exchange. He was joined by Hong Kong financial secretary Paul Chan and the deputy mayor of the coastal city of Ningde in south-eastern China, where the company has its headquarters. 

CATL was not satisfied with being “just a battery component manufacturer”, Zeng said on Tuesday, adding that the company was poised to be the “pioneer” of the zero-carbon economy.

CATL is the world’s largest electric-vehicle battery group. A supplier to Tesla, BMW and Volkswagen, the cash-rich company had sought an offshore listing to raise non-renminbi funding for its overseas expansion, notably a $7.3bn factory in Hungary.


The listing had the support of American banks, while a US asset management firm was a key investor, despite the geopolitical tensions swirling around the deal.

In January, the battery maker was added to a Pentagon blacklist of companies believed to have ties to the Chinese military, although it has denied any such links.

A Republican lawmaker in April urged JPMorgan Chase and Bank of America to halt work on the listing, in a warning sign of the politicisation of such capital markets deals. The US lenders remained as lead bankers on the transaction, along with state-backed China International Capital Corporation and China Securities.

Demand was boosted by global investors’ growing shift out of American assets, including the US dollar, according to analysts. 

Market participants suggested the listing played a role in pushing up the Hong Kong dollar exchange rate earlier in May as investors in the offering bought Hong Kong dollars and speculators bet on it to rise, forcing the Hong Kong Monetary Authority to intervene and buy almost US$17bn to hold down the exchange rate.

“We are in this kind of unique scenario, where you have a well-known company issuing new shares, also at a time when you have a macro factor where investors want to diversify away from the US dollar-related assets,” said Jason Lui, head of Asia-Pacific equity and derivative strategy at BNP Paribas. 

Analysts and deal participants said they believed heightened demand enabled CATL to price at the top end of HK$263 a share — only a roughly 7 per cent discount to the price at the close on Monday in Shenzhen. Chinese “A-shares” on mainland exchanges typically trade at a double-digit percentage premium to their “H-share” equivalents in Hong Kong, and initial public offerings are usually priced at a discount to entice buyers.

Wang Shuguang, a management committee member at Chinese brokerage CICC, said CATL’s successful debut would encourage more leading Chinese companies across various sectors to pursue listings in Hong Kong.

“The A-share market provides robust liquidity and higher valuations,
while Hong Kong’s market enables flexible financing,” Wang said. “By leveraging both, companies can access diverse financing options and boost the financial agility of their global operations.”

Chinese oil company Sinopec, the Kuwait Investment Authority sovereign wealth fund and Asian fund Hillhouse Investment invested before the shares went public as so-called cornerstone investors. They were joined by US-owned Oaktree Capital Management and Lingotto, an investment vehicle backed by the Italian industrialist Agnelli family, as well as units of two Chinese state-owned groups, Postal Savings Bank of China and insurer Taikang Life. 

One person familiar with the deal told the Financial Times that other US investors chose to wait to invest until after the listing in order to reduce scrutiny from Washington. 

Meanwhile, many onshore American investors will not have access to the shares, given the listing was filed under a “Reg S” rather than “144A” regulation under US securities law. This exempts CATL from some disclosure obligations and means US investors without offshore accounts are barred from investing

>>> US After Hours Summary: PEGA +8.4% to join S&P MidCap 400; SNDX +4.4% on sev

After Hours Summary: PEGA +8.4% to join S&P MidCap 400; SNDX +4.4% on several insider buys; IBP +3.8% as CFO bought 2750 shares; TRNS +5.3% higher on earnings

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: TRNS +5.3%, XYF +4.7%, EGHT +3.8%, SB +2%, AGYS +1.3%

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: ASPI +9.4% (deal with terraPower including loan agreement for construction of a HALEU production facility and supply agreements for HALEU), PEGA +8.4% (to join S&P MidCap 400), SNDX +4.4% (discloses several insider buys), IBP +3.8% (CFO bought 2750 shares), VRRM +1.3% (authorizes new $100 mln share repurchase program), ANNX +1% (showcases tanruprubart data), GTLB +0.7% (achieves FedRAMP moderate authorization), HOG +0.6% (says CEO search continues at pace), VRTX +0.5% (authorizes new $4 bln share repurchase program), AWK +0.1% (to purchase multiple water and wastewater systems for $315 mln), TALO +0.1% (CFO to step down, reaffirms guidance), PPTA +0.1% (receives final federal permit for Stibnite Gold Project)

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: YALA -12.6%

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: SARO -4.1% (two shareholders to launch 30 mln share offering; also stock offering by selling shareholders), AMRC -3.4% (executes note purchase agreement and private shelf to finance energy infrastructure projects; additional $300 mln shelf facility), RHP -2.7% (to acquire JW Marriott resort for $865 mln; also 2.3 mln share offering), DLTR -2.2% (names Chairman/CEO of Family Dollar), FDX -1.7% (announces leadership roles as it makes progress to separate its LTL freight division), RGNX -1.4% (royalty monetization agreement for up to $250 mln), CXW -1.2% (increases share repurchase program by $150 mln), IDR -1.1% (files for $35 mln mixed securities shelf offering), CRSP -0.1% (collaboration with Sirius Therapeutics)

WWD : Inside Coco Chanel’s Renovated Villa La Pausa on the French Riviera

Inside Coco Chanel’s Renovated Villa La Pausa on the French Riviera

ROQUEBRUNE-CAP-MARTIN, France — In the 1930s, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s hillside villa on the French Riviera was a magnet for creators like painter Salvador Dalí, filmmaker Luchino Visconti and writer Colette. After a multiyear restoration, Chanel is reopening the villa next month with the aim of hosting artists once again.

Architect Peter Marino, who has collaborated with the French luxury brand for more than three decades, pored over hundreds of archival photographs to recreate the original interiors of La Pausa, the legendary designer’s home — complete with a mirrored bathroom that echoes the Art Deco staircase of her couture salon in Paris.

But that’s the only reminder of the glitz and glamour of her fashion empire. Chanel, who built the house from scratch, envisioned it as a peaceful retreat. She enjoyed nothing more than to jump on the Train Bleu in Paris at midnight and arrive in Monte-Carlo by dinner time.

On a recent visit to the house, set in an olive grove with spectacular views stretching from Monaco to the Italian Riviera, the only sound was birdsong. Sitting on the wisteria-covered patio surrounded by lavender, jasmine and magnolias, it was easy to see what prompted Chanel to buy the property, which encompasses a chapel, guesthouse and tennis court.
The entrance hall of La Pausa.
Jason Schmidt/Courtesy of Chanel

Next month, the villa will welcome a clutch of art world luminaries after the Art Basel fair in Basel, Switzerland, before hosting its first official writers’ retreat next November.

“Gabrielle Chanel had a clear vision that La Pausa should be a place for ‘pause,’ a home of one’s own in which to convene artists and thinkers. For a roaring decade after its construction in 1928, La Pausa offered just that — a tranquil yet stimulating environment, free from the distractions and constraints of everyday life,” said Yana Peel, president of arts, culture and heritage at Chanel.

“At La Pausa, we will again ignite new ideas that might not otherwise have the freedom, resources or space to flourish, as an extension of the patronage and elevated hospitality that Mademoiselle Chanel offered in the villa’s heyday,” she said in a statement.

A philanthropist and former chief executive officer of the Serpentine Galleries in London, Peel leads the Chanel Culture Fund, which supports artists, and works with curators, museums and institutions on long-term projects. La Pausa is one of several heritage sites under its umbrella.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and friends climb an olive tree at La Pausa.
Photo Roger Schall © Schall Collection

In addition to Chanel’s apartment at 31 Rue Cambon, renovated in 2020 by decorator Jacques Grange, the house is supporting restoration work at the Aubazine Abbey, the austere 12th-century Cistercian convent-orphanage where she spent her teenage years, forging her taste for minimalist design.

Chanel, who frequently toured the Mediterranean aboard the Flying Cloud — the yacht owned by her lover, the Duke of Westminster — bought La Pausa in 1928 for 1.8 million francs, a princely sum at the time, said Hélène Fulgence, head of heritage sites at Chanel.

“She was 43 years old and at the height of her fame, and she had never taken a break. She was always thinking about the next store, the next idea, the next factory, the next fragrance,” Fulgence said as she guided a handful of visitors through the property.


A Golden Moment
In lieu of the pink and green bungalow originally built by British novelists Alice and Charles Norris Williamson in the 1910s, she commissioned a young Belgian-born architect, Robert Streitz, to construct the house of her dreams. Chanel stipulated that none of the trees should be uprooted, including the olive tree right in the middle of the path leading to the front door.
The living room of La Pausa.
Jason Schmidt/Courtesy of Chanel

A fan of Italian Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio, Streitz designed the house around a cloister-like patio, with a 26-foot-high entrance hall with five rectangular windows overlooking a twin staircase. Chanel nixed the staircase plan, asking him instead to create a single set of steps, an almost exact replica of the monks’ staircase at Aubazine.

Bare at first, the lobby was gradually furnished with Spanish and Rococo furniture in the same vein as the carved wooden doors.

The living room, dominated by two mauve velvet couches, hosted lively gatherings where Misia Sert played the piano and guests like Dalí, illustrator Christian Bérard and gallerist Pierre Colle would roll up the Persian rug and dance in improvised costumes.

“We think that Christian Dior came here with Pierre Colle because they ran a gallery together, and Pierre Colle was a frequent guest at La Pausa,” Fulgence said.

Without a doubt, the most poignant room is Chanel’s bedroom, which has a balcony facing the sea.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s bedroom at La Pausa.
Jason Schmidt/Courtesy of Chanel

Its furniture had been put into storage when the house was sold in 1953 to Emery and Wendy Reves, an American couple with a sizable collection of Impressionist masterpieces. Wendy Reves, who lived there until her death in 2007, had the bedroom completely remodeled, though the rest of the house was left largely intact.

The house was put on the market in 2013 for 40 million euros, but its contents were bequeathed to the Dallas Museum of Art. Chanel acquired the house in 2015 for an undisclosed sum, and Fulgence was able to buy back furniture and homewares at an auction in Paris in 2019, including Chanel’s gilded wrought iron headboard.

Tucked into the frame are a gold star and a palm frond, exactly as pictured on an old photograph of Chanel receiving visitors in bed. Marino had her ivory quilted bedspread reproduced, but the room’s Baroque mirrors, bedside lamp and Louis XIII chair are all original.

“I hoped the restoration would recall the time in which the house was built, as though Mademoiselle Chanel had left the room only five minutes before. Authenticity and the history of La Pausa were paramount,” Marino said.
A view of La Pausa in 1932.
© Société des Bains de Mer, Monte Carlo

He details the process in “La Pausa: The Ideal Mediterranean Villa of Gabrielle Chanel,” a 350-page coffee table book to be published by Flammarion in French and English in September. Illustrated with 500 exclusive photographs and unpublished archival documents, it captures a golden moment in time between the wars.

A Haven for Artists
Mornings were quiet, as Chanel never emerged from her quarters before 1 p.m. In her 1960 memoir “In My Fashion,” Vogue editor Bettina Ballard recounted a typical day at La Pausa.

“The house was blissfully silent in the morning. If and when you came down, there were small, unostentatious cars with drivers to run you down the mountain to swim or shop in Monte Carlo,” she wrote.

“Lunch was the first moment of the day when the guests met in a group, and no one ever missed lunch — it was far too entertaining. The long dining room had a buffet at one end with hot Italian pasta, cold English roast beef, French dishes, a little of everything,” she said.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and Jean Hugo at the buffet table at La Pausa.
Photo Roger Schall © Schall Collection

“No one bothered to listen to anything that didn’t have a modicum of wit to it. Chanel, who ate little, stood most of the time during lunch before the great fireplace, as usual, one hand plunged in a pocket, the other gesticulating, her broad mouth opening even broader in a grin as she remembered and recounted wicked or touching or funny anecdotes from her own or her friends’ pasts,” Ballard said.

Afternoons were dedicated to walks, tennis or napping in the hammocks suspended between the olive trees.

“We went down the hill from Roquebrune very seldom at night, and when we did it was a little like an invading hostile army making a sortie against a rival camp. Chanel thrived on feuds and always had one simmering with the Honorable Mrs. Reginald Fellowes or Princesse Jean-Louis de Faucigny-Lucinge, both wielders of strong social axes,” Ballard recounted.

Chanel’s circle formed their own clique, distinct from that of Gerald and Sara Murphy in Antibes, who entertained Pablo Picasso, Zelda and F. Scott Fitzgerald, and Cole Porter, or Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles in Hyères, who ran with a Surrealist crowd.
Audrey James Field, the sister of Dalí’s patron James Field; poet Pierre Reverdy, and Dalí himself stayed at La Pausa for months at a time.

Having fled Spain because of the Civil War, Dalí settled at the villa from September to December 1938, completing 11 major paintings that were exhibited at the Julien Levy Gallery in New York City the following year, paving the ground for his move to the U.S.

He and his wife Gala slept in the little guesthouse next to the chapel. Having fully updated the house’s 100-year-old plumbing, ventilation and electrical systems, Marino has also added showers to the guest bedrooms in preparation for a fresh crop of visitors.

Resident chef Arquimedes Jesus Rodriguez, who trained with Mauro Colagreco at the three-Michelin star restaurant Mirazur in nearby Menton, creates dishes based on locally sourced ingredients.
Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s bathroom at La Pausa.
Jason Schmidt/Courtesy of Chanel

In addition to the four nonfiction writers expected this fall, the villa will host other artist residencies. “The idea is to make this villa a place to generate ideas and exchange points of view, so that artists in Chanel’s entourage can draw inspiration from it,” Fulgence said.

The location should also fuel the imagination of the house’s creative teams.

“Our image departments and our creative studio directors have an open invitation to come to La Pausa as often as they want for whatever they want. And then there are the friends of the house, clients but also celebrities who are in Cannes and who will drop by La Pausa,” she added.

Still, staying overnight will remain a rare privilege. “Sleeping in Gabrielle Chanel’s bed is very, very special,” Fulgence said. “This is not a hotel. It’s really a private home.”

WWD : Pierpaolo Piccioli Is Balenciaga’s New Creative Director

Pierpaolo Piccioli Is Balenciaga’s New Creative Director
The seasoned Italian designer starts on July 10 and is to present his first designs in October during Paris Fashion Week.

Seasoned Italian designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is the new creative director of Balenciaga, effective July 10, with his first collection to be unveiled in October during Paris Fashion Week.

He succeeds Demna, the edgy Georgian designer who made the French house a byword for hefty sneakers, drop-shoulder hoodies and dystopian cool over an acclaimed 10-year tenure that also reshaped the boundaries of luxury.

Last March, Balenciaga parent Kering appointed Demna the new artistic director of its cash-cow property Gucci, tasked with jolting the Italian fashion house out of its doldrums.

Piccioli, who spent most of his fashion career plying romance, glamor and couture grandeur at Valentino, arrives at a global brand with a fleet of raw, concrete stores, a business split evenly between women’s and men’s, and a recent reputation for hype and provocation.

Due to Demna’s underground proclivities, the brand became famous within streetwear circles, prized for its oversize tailoring, bulky footwear, slogan knits and distressed jeans.

In more recent years the house charted an upscaling drive by bringing back haute couture, signing a fleet of A-list actresses including Nicole Kidman, Michelle Yeoh and Isabelle Huppert, and introducing a range of status handbags, including the Le Cagole, Rodeo and Bel Air models.

To be sure, Balenciaga has flirted with a variety of fashion directions under its previous creative directors, which included Josephus Thimister, Alexander Wang and Nicolas Ghesquière, who leaned into an experimental and at times futuristic approach that catapulted the house back into fashion’s big leagues.

Piccioli, 57, has been sitting on fashion’s sidelines since he parted ways with Valentino in March 2024, having worked at the Roman house for 25 years, and sharing the creative director role jointly with Maria Grazia Chiuri from 2008 to 2016. He started his fashion career with a 10-year stint at Fendi, also working there alongside Chiuri.

Citing sources, WWD reported that Piccioli could be next in line at Balenciaga as far back as March 2024. It is understood the Rome-born designer also held discussions with Fendi, while maintaining close ties to Valentino owner Mayhoola, which also controls Balmain and Walter Albini.

A beloved figure on the international fashion scene, Piccioli is prized for daring volumes and colors, particularly for haute couture, and for widening the Valentino esthetic beyond its jet-set image of yore to embrace younger and more diverse audiences.

On Monday, he shared a letter reflecting on how Cristóbal Balenciaga has been a touchstone throughout his career, mentioning that the first picture he ever uploaded on his personal Instagram page was a 1967 wedding ensemble by the Spanish master. “Simplicity is a solved complexity,” he wrote underneath the image, posted in 2018.

“Cristóbal Balenciaga’s legacy and archive is probably one of the most influential fashion statements of all time,” he wrote. “He has done everything before everyone; he has literally invented the culture of creativity; he has infused the idea of couture in every aspect of his career, and he has shown, through his creations, the power of evolution and innovation.”

That said, Piccioli made clear he also plans to build on what the brand’s more recent creative leaders constructed.

“Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to all the people who have paved the way. Cristóbal, Nicolas, Alex, Demna,” he wrote, “In all its phases, while constantly evolving and changing, it has never lost track of the house’s aesthetic values.”

Piccioli’s arrival at Balenciaga, the day after Demna presents his swan song couture collection for the house, adds yet another hotly anticipated debut to the fashion calendar, with Gucci, Chanel, Bottega Veneta, Loewe, Versace, Jil Sander and Jean Paul Gaultier among houses unveiling collections by new creative directors this fall.

In a brief announcement issued Monday evening in Paris, Kering said Piccioli would “bring his unique creative vision and extensive experience to Balenciaga, building on the strengths and success achieved by the brand over the past decade under Demna’s creative direction, and in continuity with the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga and of the historic Parisian house.”

Commenting on the appointment, Francesca Bellettini, Kering’s deputy chief executive officer in charge of brand development, called Piccioli “one of the most talented and celebrated designers of today.”

“His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice, and his passion for savoir-faire made him the ideal choice for the house,” she said, also thanking Demna for “the bold, distinctive vision he brought to Balenciaga over the past 10 years, shaping the house’s identity in the contemporary era.”

Gianfranco Gianangeli, who was been CEO at the brand since last January, said he was “excited to begin this new era at Balenciaga with Pierpaolo. His creative vision will thrive, and he will perfectly interpret the legacy of Cristóbal Balenciaga, building on the house’s bold creativity, rich heritage and strong culture. With the expertise of our teams and the dynamic creative energy that has historically driven Balenciaga, I look forward to what we will build together.”

Bellettini added her vote of confidence, saying, “I am convinced that Pierpaolo and Gianfranco will lead Balenciaga perfectly through this important new chapter of its remarkable history.”

Basque fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga first set up his fashion business with a boutique in San Sebastián, Spain, in 1919, ultimately opening his couture house in Paris in 1937 on the Avenue George V.

Oscar de la Renta, Pierre Cardin and Emanuel Ungaro were among those who worked in his atelier, which had a reputation for uncompromising standards and an architectural approach to cutting. Among the founder’s most famous creations were the cocoon coat, balloon skirt and sack dress.

Balenciaga closed his house in 1968 and died in 1972.

Piccioli certainly winked to the designer’s sculptural constructions when he designed a one-off collection of down creations for Moncler in 2018.

Balenciaga remained dormant until 1986, when beauty firm Jacques Bogart SA acquired the intellectual property and resumed operations, including licensing. Fashions were initially created by Michel Goma, then Thimister, and then Ghesquière from 1997 to 2012.

Kering does not break down revenues for Balenciaga, lumping it in with “other houses” including McQueen, Pomellato and Brioni. Revenues at “other houses” declined 11 percent in the first quarter of 2025, though Kering trumpeted a “very solid” performance of Balenciaga’s leather goods.

The brand has been consistently expanding its retail network, ending 2024 with a tally of 271 stores. Market sources estimate the brand’s revenues are north of 2 billion euros.

Balenciaga is said to be preparing fragrances to be introduced in 2025 under Kering Beauté.

In his letter, Piccioli said he sees in Balenciaga “a brand full of possibilities that is incredibly fascinating.

“I must first and foremost thank Demna; I’ve always admired his talent and vision,” Piccioli wrote. “I couldn’t ask for a better passing of the torch. He paid homage to Cristóbal in his own way, sharing his point of view while maintaining the house’s core identity alive. This gives me the chance to shape a new version of the maison, adding another chapter with a new story.”

He expressed gratitude for “the trust that [Kering chairman and CEO François-Henri Pinault], Francesca and Gianfranco are giving me. We were effortlessly on the same page from the start, and that is the best way to start something new.”

It is understood Piccioli will relocate to Paris to dedicate himself to the house.