WSJ : Europe’s Green Energy Rush Slashed Emissions—and Crippled the Economy

Europe’s Green Energy Rush Slashed Emissions—and Crippled the Economy
Political consensus is cracking, industry is hobbled and high-profile projects are being postponed thanks to some of the highest electricity prices in the developed world

European politicians pitched the continent’s green transition to voters as a win-win: Citizens would benefit from green jobs and cheap, abundant solar and wind energy alongside a sharp reduction in carbon emissions.

Nearly two decades on, the promise has largely proved costly for consumers and damaging for the economy.

Europe has succeeded in slashing carbon emissions more than any other region—by 30% from 2005 levels, compared with a 17% drop for the U.S. But along the way, the rush to renewables has helped drive up electricity prices in much of the continent.

Germany now has the highest domestic electricity prices in the developed world, while the U.K. has the highest industrial electricity rates, according to a basket of 28 major economies analyzed by the International Energy Agency. Italy isn’t far behind. Average electricity prices for heavy industries in the European Union remain roughly twice those in the U.S. and 50% above China. Energy prices have also grown more volatile as the share of renewables increased.


It is crippling industry and hobbling Europe’s ability to attract key economic drivers like artificial intelligence, which requires cheap and abundant electricity. The shift is also adding to a cost-of-living shock for consumers that is fueling support for antiestablishment parties, which portray the green transition as an elite project that harms workers, most consumers and regions.

Energy analysts say it makes strategic sense for a continent that lacks the abundant oil and gas riches enjoyed by the U.S. and some other regions to diversify its energy sources. In some cases like Spain, blessed with lots of sunshine, or Nordic countries, with abundant hydro power to provide energy when its wind farms fall silent, the transition looks promising. France’s reliance on nuclear energy is helping it keep costs down.

But in much of the region the transition is at risk of backfiring, adding to economic stagnation.

“We are hemorrhaging industry,” said Dieter Helm, an economic policy professor at Oxford University who has advised U.K. governments on energy policy.

British chemical company Ineos said in October it would close two plants in western Germany because of high energy costs. In recent days, Exxon-Mobil said it would close its chemical plant in Scotland and threatened to exit Europe’s chemicals industry, saying green policies made it uncompetitive.

In Ireland, the state grid operator imposed an effective moratorium on new data centers—which underpin cloud computing and AI—until 2028, after existing data centers drained over a fifth of the country’s electricity supply last year.

Jerome Evans, the CEO of a German data-center operator, sought to expand his two data centers in Frankfurt, Germany’s internet crossroads. The local power provider told him he would have to wait a decade, until 2035, for the energy to power them.

Some of Europe’s high energy prices aren’t the fault of policymakers or the green transition. Prices for natural gas surged after the pandemic and again after Europe heavily reduced imports of gas from Russia following its invasion of Ukraine.

But a good chunk of the increase is thanks to the shift to renewables, say business executives and some economists.

While sunlight and wind are free, harnessing them entails significant infrastructure investments, including in battery storage for when the sun isn’t shining or the wind blowing, and vast redundant capacity. These additional costs, obscured by subsidies and carbon taxes, mean energy prices in places like Germany and the U.K. are likely to remain higher than other countries for years to come, some economists say. The stubbornly high prices, Helm said, suggest it’s the overall system cost driving prices.

Aurora Energy Research, a consulting firm, estimates a “clean power” system in the U.K. would only start saving bill payers money from 2044. It’s a similar story in Germany. By that point, the economic damage done to Europe could be severe.

In some places, the political consensus on the energy transition—once driven by dire climate warnings—is starting to crack.

Even with broad support on the continent for mitigating climate change, right-wing populist parties in France, Germany and the U.K. that are opposed to renewable energy targets and subsidies are gaining support. Germany’s government recently decided to build new gas-fired power plants. Diplomatic disputes between European countries have erupted over energy policy in recent months, while Norway’s coalition government collapsed after a revolt over the adoption of proposed EU rules to increase renewable energy.

High-profile net-zero projects are being postponed or scrapped, notably those involving green hydrogen, which the EU placed at the heart of its green plans as a possible fuel for heavy industry and means of energy storage.

“You can’t afford, in top global competition, to be ideologically driven in the way you decide the energy system,” said Ebba Busch, Sweden’s deputy prime minister and energy minister. Busch has criticized Germany for relying too heavily on solar and wind power, which means it sucks up energy from nearby countries on dull days, driving up prices.

“Without energy we have no industry, and without industry we have no defense,” she said.

The ‘or’ strategy
Europe has pursued a different strategy in its green transition than any other region. The U.S., China, India, Brazil and others took an “and” strategy: They are aggressively rolling out renewables and simultaneously building fossil-fuel power plants on a grand scale.

Europe largely took an “or” strategy: It raced to replace fossil fuels with solar, wind and biomass by taxing carbon heavily, subsidizing renewables and closing scores of fossil-fuel power plants.

Britain, which pioneered the use of coal for energy, last year became the first large industrialized country to shut all of its coal-fired power plants. It has also banned new offshore oil-and-gas drilling. Denmark plans to eliminate gas for home heating by 2035. Around one-fifth of Germany’s municipal utilities plan to shut down their gas networks in coming years, according to an October survey by the utilities’ trade association.

The effect was to cut back on a major source of energy before any other is fully up and running.

Many European consumers and businesses are now stuck in the worst of both worlds. They are still at the mercy of electricity prices linked to the cost of imported fossil fuels while also shouldering big upfront costs to overhaul grids to handle the intermittent renewable power.

In the U.K., the cost of procuring and delivering electricity accounts for just over half of domestic electricity bills, with the rest made up of an array of levies and carbon taxes, including subsidies to pay for renewables and grid upgrades. These levies have risen faster than wholesale energy costs like natural gas in the past decade, according to the Resolution Foundation, a think tank.

Polls show half of British consumers are planning to ration energy use this winter as they struggle with wholesale electricity costs that are 80% higher than the U.S.

Dina Ingram, an office administrator in London, used to turn on the central heating in her four-room house for long stretches. Now in winter she can only afford to have it on for three hours a day. She doesn’t heat her bedroom at all.

“I get angry,” said the 62-year-old, who attributes the high prices to corporate greed.

Europe’s decision to slash fossil-fuel use is unusual historically, economists say. In earlier energy transitions—from wood to coal, or coal to oil—countries continued to use the outgoing fuel while adding the new fuel on top. Worldwide, wood and coal are being burned in larger quantities than ever, thanks mostly to China.

The policies could even unintentionally result in higher emissions globally, some economists and chemical industry executives say. If European factories close as a result of high energy costs, their production is likely to be replaced by imports from places like China, where the carbon footprint for those products is far higher—even before shipping is calculated, according to Oxford Economics.

Broken promises
It wasn’t supposed to be this way. Former U.K. Conservative Prime Minister Boris Johnson promised in 2020 that the country would become the “Saudi Arabia of wind,” producing clean power that he said would be cheaper than coal and gas.

Britain’s Labour Party has stayed the course, vowing that household energy bills will fall £300 a year, or around $400 annually, by 2030. But energy executives recently testified to Parliament that electricity bills would likely rise a further 20% in real terms by that date—even if the price of inputs like natural gas were to fall. Executives cited “noncommodity factors” like the cost of the new grid.

To try to shield consumers, the U.K. government announced last week it will pay a pricey renewable subsidy with general taxation rather than loading it onto people’s bills. Britain is also racing to expand its nuclear capacity. It last opened a nuclear reactor in 1995.

Parts of the green transition have proved unexpectedly costly. When Scotland’s biggest offshore wind farm opened in 2023, it was feted as a symbol of Britain’s push into a new era of cheap low-emissions energy. But today, British taxpayers spend tens of millions of pounds a year for the Seagreen wind farm to not produce electricity.

Why? If the wind farm was left constantly on, it would send big pulses of energy from northern Scotland to southern England that would fry the U.K.’s aging grid.

Last year, the farm’s 114 turbines in the North Sea were disconnected more than 70% of the time; a gas plant in southern England fired up instead to meet local electricity demand. The tab British consumers paid to “balance” the grid totaled £2.7 billion last year—a cost expected to rise to £8 billion by 2030. Borrowing costs have also risen, making capital-intensive offshore wind far more expensive.

“Very clearly the cost of the transition has never been admitted or recognized,” said Gordon Hughes, a professor at the University of Edinburgh and a former adviser on energy to the World Bank. “There is a massive dishonesty involved.”

The continent’s cash-strapped governments now face a difficult choice: Press ahead with a rapid transition, or slow it down to save money but risk prolonging the pain.

Goldman Sachs Research expects Europe will have to invest up to €3 trillion, or $3.48 trillion, in power generation and infrastructure over the coming 10 years—roughly double what European countries spent in the past decade. That’s a big ask for governments already facing tighter budgets due to an aging population, higher military spending and higher interest bills on debt.

Waiting for a tipping point
Proponents of renewable energy argue that high prices will prove transitional. Since sunshine and wind are free and abundant, renewables will ultimately be cheaper once the new infrastructure is built, they say, while it will continue to cost money to dig oil and gas out of the ground. If enough renewable energy and battery storage is brought onstream, fossil fuels will no longer set the price of electricity and costs will fall away.

“Energy costs in the future will be a lot lower,” once Europe’s renewable system is up and running, said Jacob Kirkegaard, an economist in Brussels with the Peterson Institute for International Economics.

The problem is getting to that point, Kirkegaard said.

Some green entrepreneurs in the U.K. have started pushing politicians to ensure the oil-and-gas industry can help ease the transition. Greg Jackson, founder of Octopus Energy, which has championed wind farms, called on the U.K. to renew offshore oil-and-gas exploration in the North Sea, so that it doesn’t have to ship gas in from across the globe. Dale Vince, founder of Ecotricity and a climate activist who used to fund the protest group Just Stop Oil, wants lower taxes for existing oil-and-gas projects in the North Sea.

“I think the outlook is poor if we don’t get bold and reform our energy market,” said Vince. He believes the green transition will pay off but says more needs to be done to stop companies building the new green grid from price gouging.

The Tony Blair Institute, the think tank founded by the former British Labour leader, is calling for carbon taxes on natural gas in the U.K. to be suspended for five years to help lower electricity costs.

Some prominent economists and industry executives have recently cast doubt on whether renewables will ever be cheaper in places like Germany and the U.K. that aren’t blessed with abundant sunshine and have bet big on wind. Onshore wind turbines in Germany produce around one-fifth of their total theoretical output. Solar panels in Germany and the U.K. use only around 10% of their total theoretical output.

“I have not seen any plan that facilitates green electricity in central Europe at competitive costs,” said Miguel López, CEO of German industrial giant Thyssenkrupp.

Helm, the Oxford professor, argues renewable energy will remain more expensive than fossil fuels because the overall system is more cumbersome. The U.K. used to meet its electricity demand with 60-70 gigawatts of power capacity. Now, the country requires twice as much capacity, 120 gigawatts, to meet slightly lower demand—not to mention the additional storage facilities and interconnector supplies to and from continental Europe.

Twenty years ago, the U.K. was the most competitive location globally for Huntsman, a Texas-based chemicals manufacturer, thanks to cheap North Sea energy, said CEO Peter Huntsman. Over the past decade, the company sold off most of its U.K. assets, reducing its staff there from more than 2,000 to around 70.

“The whole value chain has gone,” Huntsman said.

>>> US Research Calls I

Research Calls I
  • Upgrades
    • Albemarle (ALB) upgraded to Neutral from Underperform at Robert W. Baird, tgt $113
    • Bausch + Lomb (BLCO) upgraded to Overweight from Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $21
    • Belite Bio (BLTE) upgraded to Outperform from Neutral at Mizuho, tgt $194
    • Darling Ingredients (DAR) upgraded to Buy from Hold at TD Cowen, tgt $45
    • DexCom (DXCM) upgraded to Overweight from Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $75
    • Pennant Group (PNTG) upgraded to Buy from Hold at Truist, tgt $34
    • Solventum (SOLV) upgraded to Buy from Neutral at BTIG Research, tgt $100
    • Teradyne (TER) upgraded to Buy from Hold at Stifel, tgt $225
    • T-Mobile (TMUS) upgraded to Sector Weight from Underweight at KeyBanc
  • Downgrades
    • Coca-Cola Femsa (KOF) downgraded to Equal Weight from Overweight at Barclays
    • Inspire Medical (INSP) downgraded to Equal Weight from Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $130
    • Michelin (MGDDY) downgraded to Equal Weight from Overweight at Morgan Stanley
    • Symbotic (SYM) downgraded to Sell from Neutral at Goldman, tgt $47
    • 10x Genomics (TXG) downgraded to Equal Weight from Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $20
  • Others
    • Agilent (A) initiated with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $270
    • Adaptive Biotechnologies (ADPT) assumed with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $21
    • Annexon (ANNX) initiated with a Buy at Clear Street, tgt $17
    • BlackLine (BL) initiated with a Buy at Rosenblatt, tgt $65
    • BrightView (BV) initiated with a Buy at BTIG Research, tgt $15
    • C4 Therapeutics (CCCC) initiated with a Buy at TD Cowen
    • Caris Life Sciences (CAI) initiated with a Hold at Canaccord, tgt $28
    • Camtek (CAMT) initiated with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $110
    • CBRE Group (CBRE) initiated with an Overweight at Barclays, tgt $190
    • California Resources (CRC) initiated with an Overweight at Wells Fargo, tgt $58
    • Circle Internet (CRCL) initiated with an Underperform at Wolfe Research, tgt $60
    • Cloudflare (NET) initiated with an Overweight at Barclays, tgt $235
    • Cytek Biosciences (CTKB) assumed with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $6
    • Cushman & Wakefield (CWK) initiated with an Equal Weight at Barclays, tgt $18
    • Dream Finders Homes (DFH) initiated with a Neutral at BTIG Research
    • D.R. Horton (DHI) initiated with a Buy at BTIG Research, tgt $186
    • Danaher (DHR) initiated with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $270
    • Equinox Gold (EQX) initiated with a Buy at Stifel
    • FuboTV (FUBO) initiated with a Market Perform at Raymond James
    • Guardant Health (GH) assumed with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $130
    • Grail (GRAL) assumed with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $110
    • Green Brick (GRBK) initiated with a Neutral at BTIG Research
    • ICF International (ICFI) assumed with a Buy at Canaccord, tgt $115
    • Iqvia (IQV) assumed with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $265
    • JLL (JLL) initiated with an Equal Weight at Barclays, tgt $351
    • KBR (KBR) initiated with an Outperform at Oppenheimer, tgt $60
    • Kinetik Holdings (KNTK) initiated with a Buy at Jefferies, tgt $41
    • Liberty Energy (LBRT) initiated with a Buy at UBS, tgt $23
    • Lennar (LEN) assumed with a Sell at BTIG Research, tgt $96
    • Mettler-Toledo (MTD) initiated with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $1,550
    • Millrose Properties (MRP) initiated with a Buy at BTIG Research, tgt $35
    • Newmark (NMRK) initiated with an Overweight at Barclays, tgt $21
    • Natera (NTRA) assumed with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $265
    • Nova (NVMI) initiated with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $335
    • NVR (NVR) initiated with a Buy at BTIG Research, tgt $9,022
    • OneStream (OS) initiated with a Buy at Rosenblatt, tgt $26
    • PagerDuty (PD) resumed with an Underperform at BofA Securities, tgt $12
    • Pfizer (PFE) resumed with a Neutral at Citigroup, tgt $26
    • PulteGroup (PHM) initiated with a Neutral at BTIG Research
    • Personalis (PSNL) assumed with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $11
    • Smith Douglas Homes (SDHC) initiated with a Neutral at BTIG Research
    • Solaris Energy (SEI) initiated with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $68
    • Stevanato Group (STVN) assumed with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $24
    • T1 Energy (TE) initiated with a Buy at Johnson Rice, tgt $8
    • Tamboran Resources (TBN) initiated with an Overweight at Wells Fargo, tgt $35
    • Tempus AI (TEM) assumed with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $85
    • Terra Innovatum (NKLR) initiated with a Buy at B. Riley, tgt $10
    • Thermo Fisher (TMO) assumed with an Overweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $670
    • Toll Brothers (TOL) initiated with a Neutral at BTIG Research
    • Texas Pacific Land (TPL) initiated with an Overweight at KeyBanc, tgt $1,050
    • Upstream Bio (UPB) initiated with an Outperform at LifeSci Capital, tgt $43
    • Veracyte (VCYT) assumed with an Underweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $48
    • Waters (WAT) initiated with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $423
    • Workday (WDAY) initiated with a Neutral at Rosenblatt, tgt $235
    • Weatherford (WFRD) initiated with a Neutral at UBS, tgt $82
    • West Pharmaceutical (WST) initiated with an Equal Weight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $285

>>> US Gapping down

Gapping down
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:
  • VSTS -7.3%, BWLP -6.4%, SIG -3.9%, SLP -3%, HUN -1.3% (guidance)
Other news:
  • JANX -40% (updated interim data for JANX007)
  • BKV -5.9% (prices offering of 6.0 mln shares of common stock at $26.00 per share)
  • TLSA -5.6% (plans to spinout IL-6 asset into separate listed company)
  • IREN -4.8% (convertible notes offering)
  • XPO -4.2% (reports operating data for Nov 2025)
  • CART -4% (in response to AMZN's ultra-fast delivery options)
  • HL -1.7% (permit for 2026 Polaris Exploration Program)
  • EXK -1.7% (prices $300 mln of convertible senior notes due 2031)
  • VTYX -1.7% (provides clinical and corporate updates)
  • AGRO -1.1% (binding offer to acquire 50% stake in Profertil S.A.; also mixed shelf offering)

>>> US Gapping up

Gapping up
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:
  • MDB +23.1%, CRDO +18.3%, CANG +2.8%, UNFI +1.9%
Other news:
  • DRVN +5.8% (agrees to divest international car wash unit; updates outlook)
  • BLTE +3.9% (proposed public offering of american depositary shares)
  • FENC +3.8% (topline results from investigator-initiated clinical study of PEDMARK in Japan to reduce cisplatin-induced hearing loss)
  • SB +3.1% (new 10 mln share repurchase program)
  • OOMA +1.9% (completes FluentStream acquisition)
  • NVTS +1.9% (availability of new ultra-high voltage products)
  • PACS +1.7% (business updates)
  • FCF +1.6% (new $25 mln share repurchase program)
  • MIR +1.3% (completes acquisition of Pragon Energy Solutions)
  • WBD +1.2% (ticks higher on report that it was fielding a second round of bids on Monday, including a mostly cash offer from Netflix, according to Bloomberg)
  • BCS +1.1% (reports BOE stress test results)

>>> Arrowhead receives FDA breakthrough therapy designation for Plozasiran in se

Arrowhead receives FDA breakthrough therapy designation for Plozasiran in severe hypertriglyceridemia
  • Co announced that the United States FDA has granted Breakthrough Therapy designation to investigational plozasiran as an adjunct to diet to reduce triglyceride (TG) levels in adults with severe hypertriglyceridemia.There are currently limited and inadequate treatment options for the millions of people globally living with SHTG.
  • Breakthrough Therapy designation is a process designed to expedite the development and review of drugs that are intended to treat a serious condition and where preliminary clinical evidence indicates that the drug may demonstrate substantial improvement over available therapies on clinically significant endpoints1.
  • Arrowhead is on schedule to complete the SHASTA-3, SHASTA-4, and MUIR-3 Phase 3 clinical studies of plozasiran in mid-2026 and intends to submit a supplemental New Drug Application (sNDA) to the FDA by year-end 2026. Arrowhead also plans to seek regulatory approval with additional global regulatory authorities thereafter.

FT : Chinese solar groups take on the battery market

Chinese solar groups take on the battery market

Why Chinese solar groups are expanding into batteries
China’s major solar-panel makers have driven astonishing growth of solar power around the world in recent years.

Companies such as Longi, Trinasolar and JinkoSolar have pushed down costs and manufactured at huge scale, helping global solar capacity climb from about 1.6 terawatts at the end of 2023 to 2.25TW at the end of 2024.

But many in the sector have suffered heavy losses as they fight to maintain market share: the International Energy Agency estimates the largest manufacturers have made cumulative losses of almost $5bn since the start of 2024.

Some companies in China have started to expand into battery storage over the past few years, helping to smooth out customers’ electricity supplies and diversify their revenues.

Trinasolar and JinkoSolar pushed into batteries earlier this decade. They have now been joined by Shanghai-listed Longi, reinforcing a trend likely to accelerate the rapid adoption of batteries. 

Longi, one of the world’s largest solar panel manufacturers, has just taken majority control of Canada-headquartered battery developer PotisEdge, and plans to sell combined solar and battery systems in international markets.

At a launch event for their new energy storage business in London last week, Dennis She, senior vice-president of sales and marketing at Longi, told Energy Source that storage was critical for a “new energy system with solar at its core”.

He added: “Solar energy [now] has much greater penetration in the grid, but we need to add more storage to stabilise the grid.”

In some countries, solar power has grown so quickly that system operators have to contend with a huge surge in power in the middle of the day, while prices turn negative.

That has created huge demand for batteries to help store power and catch up with the growth of solar farms.

She said storage would likely grow faster than solar in the coming years, predicting potential growth of 30 per cent or 40 per cent every year.

Selling combined solar and storage units should push down costs further, he noted, as work such as installation and service procedures would be combined.

Falling costs have pushed the commercial limits of batteries, meaning new installations can typically discharge at full output for longer periods of time.

“We started at two hours; now I think the average is three to four hours. We can even see eight hours,” added She.

In its latest results, published last week, Longi reported losses for the first nine months of 2025 of almost $600mn, which was an improvement on the losses reported in the same period a year earlier.

The company said it sold 63 gigawatts worth of cells and modules during the first nine months of the year, along with 38.15GW of silicon wafers, used to make solar panels.

It comes as the chair of rival Trinasolar said energy storage will help his company “reach a turning point in its performance” before its peers, Bloomberg reported this week.

Longi’s She said he expected the majority of the customers for the company’s new storage business to be utility-scale solar farms, with industrial sites also key customers.

Longi’s expansion into batteries comes as Chinese manufacturers are under pressure from tariffs in the US, while Europe is also planning to tighten foreign investment rules to try to make sure investment delivers jobs and other benefits for local communities.

CATL, the Chinese battery maker, is building a factory in Spain and wants to bring 2,000 Chinese workers to the Zaragoza region, along with using about 3,000 mostly Spanish workers to run the plant.

PotisEdge, Longi’s battery subsidiary, has about 30GW of battery manufacturing capacity in China. Longi has an office in Poland while PotisEdge has “centers of excellence” in Poland and elsewhere in Europe to supply services and training. But Longi has no plans to set up manufacturing in Europe.

She said Europe and China should “work together” on the energy transition, but cautioned Europe needed to put the right policies in place if it wanted more solar panels to be made in the continent.

WWD : La Perla’s New Course Kicks Off With About 220 Workers Rehired

La Perla’s New Course Kicks Off With About 220 Workers Rehired
Trade unions are touting the move as a promising start under new owner Peter Kern, the former CEO of Expedia.

MILAN — La Perla is headed to greener pastures under the new owner, American industrial entrepreneur Peter Kern, the former chief executive officer of Expedia.

Italian trade unions Filctem Cgil and Uiltec Uil said Monday that all former employees, about 220 people, have been rehired by La Perla Atelier, the brand’s parent company. Often referred to as “perline,” which means small pearls in Italian, the company’s workers will get back to their jobs at the recently reopened Atelier in Bologna, Italy, starting Monday.

“This marks the end of more than two years of uncertainty, a period defined by sacrifices and fear, but also by unwavering determination. The craftspeople, accustomed to stitching true works of art for the luxury sector and appreciated internationally, held together what financial speculation was dismantling piece by piece,” the unions said in their statement.

“The signing of the contracts is not the final objective but the beginning of a new chapter. Starting today, the new owner inherits a unique human capital, capable of creating value with every single stitch. It is on this legacy that the relaunch of the factory and of the brand will be built,” the unions continued.

La Perla had been in a state of chaos for more than two years before Kern completed the acquisition last June through his Luxury Holding company.

The entrepreneur’s business plan for the luxury innerwear brand hinges on investments of almost 30 million euros by 2027, according to the Ministry of Enterprises and of Made in Italy, which has been actively involved in all stages of the business rescue plan.

As reported, the innerwear brand was declared insolvent by an Italian court in February 2024. A trifecta of court commissioners was named, marking the exit of the brand’s former owner Tennor, the private equity firm, previously known as Sapinda, helmed by German businessman Lars Windhorst.

Under his lead, La Perla had failed to relaunch in recent years, weighed down by debts, albeit searching for new revenue streams by expanding into beauty and swimwear. At one point it became one of the first brands to join Amazon Luxury Stores. The company also invested $50 million in the now-shuttered British couture house Ralph & Russo.

In May 2024, a Bologna court ruled in favor of putting La Perla’s Italy-based manufacturing arm and subsidiary, La Perla Manufacturing Srl, into judicial administration, which allowed the business to continue to operate and the preservation of jobs.

A few months later, Tyche Bank said 500,000 euros were being made available for La Perla, as reported, to keep operations at its plant in Bologna alive as the search for potential investors continued to be carried out by the courts commissioners, until Kern, the former CEO of Expedia, finalized the transaction.

La Perla was founded in 1956 by the corsetry-maker Ada Masotti. Her son, Alberto Masotti, headed the business until it was sold to private equity player JH Partners in 2007. Ownership of La Perla passed to Silvio Scaglia in 2013, who sold it to Sapinda in 2018.

WWD : L’Oréal CEO Nicolas Hieronimus on Why Beauty Is More Important Now Than Ev

L’Oréal CEO Nicolas Hieronimus on Why Beauty Is More Important Now Than Ever
The leader of the world's largest beauty company talks breaking boundaries even amidst unlikely circumstances.

“You cannot stand still in beauty,” said L’Oréal Groupe chief executive officer Nicolas Hieronimus at the 2025 WWD Beauty Inc Awards, where he received the 2025 WWD Beauty Inc Pete Born Impact Award.

The CEO — L’Oréal’s sixth in its 116-year history — would know.

Since taking the helm in 2021, Hieronimus has furthered the French conglomerate’s position as the biggest beauty company in the world: He’s made acquisitions — including a recent 4-billion-euro transaction to acquire Kering’s beauty properties; launched the L’Oréal Circular Innovation Fund and the L’Oréal Climate Emergency Fund; furthered the company’s investments in emerging technologies and the dermaesthetics space, and more.

And still, as the 2025 Pete Born Impact Award honoree told Beauty Inc editor in chief Jenny B. Fine during a fireside chat, he remains laser-focused on what’s ahead.

“I’m often asked, ‘what is your legacy? What trace do you want to leave?,’ and I don’t believe in traces,” said Hieronimus. “Traces, like footprints in the sand, can vanish once a wave passes. But I like the concept of movement — of beauty that moves the world.”

In order to move the world, he said, L’Oréal must understand and reflect it. This objective has led the company to deepen its presence in emerging geographies and move in lockstep with culture.

“That’s why we make acquisitions, because sometimes you have to know what you don’t know; making acquisitions through BOLD [Bold Opportunities for L’Oréal Development, the company’s venture fund] is a way for us to learn and to grow,” said Hieronimus, whose recent investments have included Omani fragrance brand Amouage and Chinese clean skin care brand, Lan.

“We’re talking about beauty technology, about dermatology, about new types of consumers. I don’t know if Elon Musk is right to say we’re going to be on Mars someday, but I’m sure if the martians want to look great, we’ll be there for them,” laughed Hieronimus. “That’s the impact we want to make at L’Oréal.”

It was roughly two years ago that L’Oréal — whose Luxe division includes Valentino Beauty, YSL Beauty and Jacquemus’ soon-to-launch beauty line, among others — became the largest luxury beauty player in the world. Now Hieronimus, who previously helmed the Luxe division, looks to steepen the company’s dominance in the category.

“We were very proud to conquer the title of worldwide number-one in luxury two years ago, and with this acquisition of Kering’s beauty assets, we’re going to broaden that lead,” said Hieronimus, adding, “I love to race in front.”

L’Oréal’s growth under Hieronimus has come even as geopolitical tensions and economic uncertainty steepen around the world.

“Beauty is more important than ever,” said the honoree. “It is there to provide people with self-esteem, transformation — it’s one of the few categories that systematically grows, at the global level, higher than the GDP.”

And beauty’s playing field is growing.

“We talk about longevity, about investing in your own health and wellness; beauty is getting broader,” Hieronimus said. “What started [via BOLD] as an intention to invest in brands has ended up being more about investing in technologies. Because the world needs innovation. Beauty needs innovation — whether it’s around sustainability or new ingredients or biotech or transformative formulas.”

Hieronimus pointed to Gjosa, the Switz tech start-up L’Oréal acquired in 2024, which plans to introduce a water-saving shower head that can reduce water consumption by 60 percent.

“You have to come up with products, solutions and services that make a difference,” he said.

Maintaining the kind of scrappy and agile thinking more often associated with smaller players, Hieronimus said, has also been crucial to success.

“I’ve been at this company for 38 years; I know it’s big, I know the numbers, I have my quarterlies — but I don’t feel it’s big. We have this culture of entrepreneurship. People see us as the behemoth, and there is indeed a benefit to scale, but it has to come with agility,” said the CEO. “We are managing a best-of-both-worlds approach.”

As for how the beauty company is navigating China, the world’s second-largest beauty market, which has seen tempered growth in recent years, Hieronimus said: “[China] has been a major growth engine for more than a decade; it has stabilized, and I think it will start growing again. You feel the energy, the appetite for innovation.”

The CEO added that the country’s Double 11 shopping period this year was one of growth for L’Oréal. “L’Oréal Paris retained the number-one spot on Double 11, and we have a few other brands in the top 10. It confirms that in China, like everywhere, if you come up with exciting brands and great products, people will go for it.”

He also advised on how emerging brands can best think about emerging markets.

“You have to understand that, because beauty is cultural, every region has a different understanding of beauty,” said Hieronimus, adding that Saudi Arabia has a significant appetite for fragrance; meanwhile in South Africa, hair care is soaring. “That’s why we have different labs in different parts of the world — you have to understand the specificities of the climate and the consumers.”

It’s a task that is incumbent on every person across the org chart, he said.

“Beauty is about what’s happening now. It’s made by the younger generations, and you have to feel it. As I’m being presented ideas by my teams, if I don’t know what they’re talking about — and sometimes that happens — I L’OréalGPT it. You have to feel the vibe of the youth,” Hieronimus said.

TechCrunch : Nvidia announces new open AI models and tools for autonomous drivin

Nvidia announces new open AI models and tools for autonomous driving research

Nvidia announced new infrastructure and AI models on Monday as it works to build the backbone technology for physical AI, including robots and autonomous vehicles that can perceive and interact with the real world.

The semiconductor giant announced Alpamayo-R1, an open reasoning vision language model for autonomous driving research at the NeurIPS AI conference in San Diego, California. The company claims this is the first vision language action model focused on autonomous driving. Visual language models can process both text and images together, allowing vehicles to “see” their surroundings and make decisions based on what they perceive.

This new model is based on Nvidia’s Cosmos-Reason model, a reasoning model that thinks through decisions before it responds. Nvidia initially released the Cosmos model family in January 2025. Additional models were released in August.

Technology like the Alpamayo-R1 is critical for companies looking to reach level 4 autonomous driving, which means full autonomy in a defined area and under specific circumstances, Nvidia said in a blog post.

Nvidia hopes that this type of reasoning model will give autonomous vehicles the “common sense” to better approach nuanced driving decisions like humans do.

This new model is available on GitHub and Hugging Face.

Alongside the new vision model, Nvidia also uploaded new step-by-step guides, inference resources, and post-training workflows to GitHub — collectively called the Cosmos Cookbook — to help developers better use and train Cosmos models for their specific use cases. The guide covers data curation, synthetic data generation, and model evaluation.

These announcements come as the company is pushing full-speed into physical AI as a new avenue for its advanced AI GPUs.

Nvidia’s co-founder and CEO Jensen Huang has repeatedly said that the next wave of AI is physical AI. Bill Dally, Nvidia’s chief scientist, echoed that sentiment in a conversation with TechCrunch over the summer, emphasizing physical AI in robotics.

“I think eventually robots are going to be a huge player in the world and we want to basically be making the brains of all the robots,” Dally said at the time. “To do that, we need to start developing the key technologies.”