>>> What to look at today - 31st of January 2020

Asian stocks headed toward posting their worst week since May, while European futures rose as investors weigh the short-term economic damage of the coronavirus against increasingly decisive moves to contain the epidemic.
A rally in Asian equities fizzled during Friday’s session, with Japan losing more than half its gains and other benchmarks seeing declines. American equity futures surrendered a modest advance after the U.S. instructed its citizens not to travel to China. Nasdaq futures fared better after Amazon.com Inc. reported a blow-out quarter late Thursday. The offshore yuan held steady after recent declines, and oil prices recouped much of a Thursday loss.
US After Hours AMZN jumps to all-time highs on earnings; NAV +51% on takeover bid; WWE -23% down sharply on mgmt departures

Nikkei +0.99% Hang Seng -0.40% CSI Closed Shanghai Closed Shenzen Closed

Eur$ 1.1020 CNH 6.9830 CNY 6.9109 JPY 109.05 GBP 1.3102 CHF 0.9710 RUB 63.3298 TRY 5.9837 WTI$ 52.94 +1.53%

S&P -0.08% EuroStoxx +0.57% FTSE +0.45% Dax +0.45% SMI -1.16%

Macro :
- China Auto Output to Drop 15% on Virus Blow, Top Supplier Says
- French Economy Shrinks for First Time in Macron’s Presidency
- At Least Two-Thirds of China Economy to Stay Shut Next Week (1)

Keep an eye on :
- ATL IM : Italy Government Open to Talks With Autostrade: Corriere
- AOX GY : GIC’s EU170m Alstria Office REIT Placement Is Covered: Terms
- AML LN : Aston Martin Calls Emergency Fundraising Board Meeting, FT Says
- AML LN : Aston Martin Is Said to Near Deal to Sell Stake to Stroll (1)
- BBVA SM : BBVA Fourth Quarter Loss Narrower Than Estimates
- EN FP : Bouygues Construction Suffers Cyberattack on IT Network
- CABK SM : CaixaBank Sees 2020 Core Revenues Rising About 1% Y/Y
- ELIS FP : Elis Full Year Revenue Matches Estimates
- EPIA SS : Epiroc Fourth Quarter Revenue 2.4% Below Estimates
- EQNR NO : Equinor Says Remaining Oil in South Riding Point Tanks Exported
- HMB SS : H&M’s First Female Boss Boosts Persson Fortune by $1.4 Billion
- IAG LN : IAG Names New Iberia and Vueling CEOs Following Walsh Exit
- INTO BB : Intervest O&W Sees Vacant Gold Forum Fully Rented by Mid-2020
- ITMR IT : Itamar Medical Offering Prices 2.55m ADR at $13.75/ADR
- KBC BB : *KBC NOMINATES KOENRAAD DEBACKERE AS CHAIRMAN: STANDAARD
- LEHN SW : Lem Maintains Full Year Sales About CHF310 Mln
- LDO IM : Leonardo Expects 2019 Orders, Revenue Above Guidance
- LDO IM : Leonardo's 4Q View Puts Helicopter Recovery Ahead of Plan: React
- LUPE SS : Lundin Petroleum Fourth Quarter Ebitda Beats Highest Estimate
- MBTN SW : Meyer Burger Fined for Accounting Errors in Financial Statements
- ORA FP : France Will Have to Compensate Operators if Huawei Banned: FFT
- ROSE SW : KWE Beteiligungen’s Sale of Zur Rose Stake Is Covered: Terms
- SAB SM : Sabadell Fourth Quarter Loss Misses Lowest Estimate
- SAB SM : Sabadell Doesn’t Rule Out Further Loan Securitizations: CFO
- LIGHT NA : Signify Raises Dividend after 4Q Sales Growth Misses Est.
- LIGHT NA : Signify CEO Says Analyzing Impact Virus on No. 2 Market China
- SRAIL SW : Stadler Rail Forecasts Double-Digit Growth After 2019 Sales Jump
- TALK LN : TalkTalk Keeps Expectations Unchanged
- TEF SM : Telefonica Hires Citi for Latam Sale: El Confidencial
- TOD IM : Tod's Full Year Sales Beat Highest Estimate
- 8TRA GY : Volkswagen’s Traton Offers to Buy Rest of Navistar for $2.9B
- UBSG SW : UBS to Face Accusation in Italy of Helping in $6.6 Million Fraud
- VOW GY : VW’s Traton Offers to Buy Rest of Navistar for $2.9 Billion (2)
- VOW GY : Volkswagen Agrees to Sell Gearbox Maker Renk to PE Firm Triton
- WDP BB : WDP 2019 Dividend Meets Ests; 2020 Dividend Forecast Beats Ests
- XIOR BB : Xior to Spend EU32m on Office Conversion Project in Eindhoven
- ZAR GY : Triton Agrees to Acquire VW’s Renk for EU97.80/Share

>>> Europe : Brokers Upgrades & Downgrades - 31st of January 202

>>> Up
* Enea Raised to Buy at SEB Equities; PT 187 kronor
* Essity Raised to Outperform at Credit Suisse; PT 345 kronor
* Hexpol Raised to Buy at DNB Markets; PT 98 kronor
* NCC Raised to Hold at Handelsbanken; PT 180 kronor
* Sartorius Stedim Raised to Buy at SocGen; PT 189 euros
* Semperit Raised to Buy at HSBC; PT 18 euros
* SCA Raised to Buy at SEB Equities; PT 103 kronor
* Vivendi Raised to Neutral at Redburn

>>> Down
* AAK Cut to Sell at Handelsbanken; PT 180 kronor
* BT Cut to Hold at HSBC; PT 185 pence
* Orsted Cut to Sell at ABG; PT 655 kroner
* PGS ASA Cut to Sell at Handelsbanken; PT 16 kroner
* Straumann Cut to Sell at Berenberg
* Vontobel Cut to Neutral at Citi

>>> Initiation
* Partners Group Rated New Buy at Jefferies
* Sats Rated New Buy at SpareBank; PT 30 kroner
* Straumann Rated New Buy at Deutsche Bank; PT 1,150 Swiss francs
* Swiss Prime Rated New Hold at Research Partners

>>> Call

WSJ : China’s Funding of U.S. Researchers Raises Red Flags

China’s Funding of U.S. Researchers Raises Red Flags
Academics don’t always disclose the funding, adding to concerns about national security

When officials at the Texas A&M University System sought to determine how much Chinese government funding its faculty members were receiving, they were astounded at the results—more than 100 were involved with a Chinese talent-recruitment program, even though only five had disclosed their participation.

A plant pathologist at the Texas system, where the median annual salary for such scientists employed by the state is around $130,000, told officials that the researcher had been offered $250,000 in compensation and more than $1 million in seed money to start a lab in China through one of the talent programs. The researcher ultimately rejected the offer, according to the Texas system’s chief research security officer, Kevin Gamache, who led the recent 18-month review that has garnered praise from U.S. officials.

The arrest of a leading Harvard University scientist this week for allegedly concealing more than $2 million in Chinese backing underscored how serious Beijing is about attracting top talent.

Such funding is just the tip of the iceberg, by China’s own account. A decade ago the Chinese government pledged to spend what would amount to more than $2 trillion today to reverse a longstanding brain drain to the developed world in a quest to dominate the technologies of the future.

All of the targeted researchers in the Texas A&M system are working in fields identified by Beijing as priorities for scientific advancement, said Mr. Gamache. “We don’t see the same offers for English majors.”

Beijing has denied attempting any systematic effort to steal U.S. scientific research, and Chinese state media have said the U.S. is using allegations of intellectual-property theft as political tool.

A Wall Street Journal examination of dozens of similar offers involving researchers at the University of Texas’s MD Anderson Cancer Center, Emory University, the University of Kansas, Michigan’s Van Andel Institute, Florida’s Moffitt Cancer Center and elsewhere in recent years shows how the influx of Chinese money has jolted generally accepted views of academic freedom and national security, leaving both the U.S. government and research communities grappling with how to respond.

Charles Lieber, a pioneer in nanotechnology, allegedly signed a contract with Chinese counterparts under which he would be paid around $50,000 a month, plus another $150,000 a year for personal expenses; he was also promised—and received—more than $1.5 million to establish a research lab at the Wuhan University of Technology, according to prosecutors.

He is specifically charged with deliberately lying to U.S. government investigators when asked if he received Chinese talent-plan funding, rather than simply omitting the information on forms. The FBI has historically pursued similar China-related cases only when they allegedly involved stealing trade secrets, more commonly in the corporate sector. But the agency recently began prosecuting people in academia—where much research is intended to be shared publicly—on lesser charges such as false statements or fraud. An attorney for Mr. Lieber declined to comment Thursday.

At the Moffitt Cancer Center in Tampa, Fla., a researcher allegedly inked a similar deal to receive around $300,000 in salary, research funds and lab space, according to an internal report dated Jan. 17, 2020, that Moffitt provided to the Journal. He also received $80,000 to offset his purchase of a $200,000 apartment in Tianjin, where he was affiliated with the Tianjin Medical University, the report said.

And at the University of Texas’s MD Anderson Cancer Center, where a federal probe dating back to 2015 prompted broader U.S. interest in Chinese talent programs several years later, investigators for MD Anderson said they discovered that one of the center’s top researchers also had a post as chief scientist at a lab at China’s Qingdao Cancer Institute. Investigators found a Chinese media report saying he received a check for 100 million yuan (around $14 million) from local officials, according to an investigative memo provided by MD Anderson. The researcher, Zhimin Lu, who wasn’t named in the memo, declined to answer questions from the Journal. The memo said he denied receiving the award, but the institute didn’t find his explanation credible.

While accepting foreign funding isn’t illegal, U.S. authorities require researchers to disclose it when applying for U.S. taxpayer-supported grants, saying failure to do so can distort allocations of billions of dollars. It can also result in the “hidden transfers of information, know-how and time,” said Kelvin Droegemeier, the director of the White House Office of Science and Technology Policy.

A November report by the Senate Permanent Subcommittee on Investigations included talent-plan contracts mandating U.S. researchers to grant intellectual property rights to their Chinese counterparts, as well as to keep their contracts confidential and steer clear of China’s “internal affairs.”

In January 2013, according to the criminal complaint, Mr. Lieber’s contact at Wuhan emailed him a five-year agreement to conduct research on a technology over which the U.S. and China are in fierce competition: “Advanced research and development of nanowire-based lithium ion batteries with high performance for electric vehicles.”

At a detention hearing Thursday, Magistrate Judge Marianne B. Bowler ruled that Mr. Lieber could be released and set a $1 million cash bond that he must deliver within five business days. He and his wife also must surrender their passports and not leave Massachusetts pending trial, and Mr. Lieber must avoid contact with the Wuhan university, Peking University and the Chinese Academy of Sciences. His travel is restricted to Massachusetts.

U.S. scrutiny of Chinese talent programs has caused friction with many university officials who see unclassified research as inherently borderless and international collaboration as a net positive.

In a December paper examining the history of the Chinese talent plans, a professor emeritus at the Hong Kong University of Science and Technology, David Zweig, questioned some of the U.S. government’s allegations about the plans. He said “the possible closing down of cooperation in the biomedical field is a global problem—despite the Chinese theft of [intellectual property]—as these collaborations have yielded important findings that have improved human health.”

Many U.S. academics have also criticized federal investigators for what they saw as discriminatory behavior given the series of recent cases brought against Chinese nationals and Chinese Americans. The FBI has said it was pursuing people based on patterns of behavior, not ethnicity. Mr. Lieber is among the first non-Chinese scientists charged to date.

Beijing launched the Thousand Talents Plan—the best-known of hundreds of similar Chinese programs—in 2008. In 2010, the government pledged to increase China’s “talent pool” from 114 million to 180 million people by the start of this year. It would raise spending on human resources to 15% of the country’s gross domestic product. By that measure, the figure would have exceeded $2.1 trillion last year. It isn’t known how much China has actually spent or, for the most part, what it has gotten from the international researchers it has sponsored.

In multiple instances, U.S. researchers appear to have gone out of their way to avoid disclosing Chinese funding to their primary employers.

A former scientist at Los Alamos National Laboratory pleaded guilty last week to lying to an investigator at the lab about his participation in the talents program.

Harvard’s Mr. Lieber emailed an associate in April 2018, two days after allegedly misleading Department of Defense investigators about his funding, according to the complaint: “I will be careful about what I discuss with Harvard University, and none of this will be shared with government investigators at this time.”

In Tampa, Moffitt’s board ousted its president and director last month for allegedly hiding their ties to the talents programs and four others left the cancer center over the issue. The former president, Alan List, and the former director, Thomas Sellers, haven’t responded to requests for comment.

The Moffitt researcher who allegedly received the $300,000, Sheng Wei, had committed to work at least six months each year for three years to cultivate additional researchers and develop his research in China, according to the internal report provided to the Journal and other media outlets following a public information request. According to the report, he later told internal investigators he had quit the program in 2013—which the report said was contradicted by other evidence. Mr. Wei couldn’t be reached for comment.

Another researcher, Howard McLeod, had disclosed to Moffitt his involvement with the Chinese talent program, the report said, but not the extent of the financial support which included $142,000 in annual research funding and $149,000 in “start-up” funding. At least one patent in his name was filed in 2017 through Central South University/Xiangya Hospital in Changsha, the report said.

“We are in the process of gathering data which we believe will shed light on these issues and show that there were no knowing or willful transgressions by Dr. McLeod,” his attorney, Theresa Van Vliet, said.

Moffitt has said there is no indication that research or patient care at the center was affected by the Chinese research funding.

Ultimately, the Texas A&M system, which won a counterintelligence award from the Defense Department in 2017 and was praised by Secretary of State Mike Pompeo this month, hasn’t fired any researchers following the investigation, though some agreed to quit Chinese talents programs after university officials raised the issue, according to Mr. Gamache.

FT : Lebanese banks shed eurobonds in ‘prisoner’s dilemma’

Lebanese banks shed eurobonds in ‘prisoner’s dilemma’
$1.2bn eurobond maturing in March falls sharply as local lenders cash out

Bonds issued by Lebanon have taken a beating this week, as local banks unsure of repayment have offloaded them to foreign investors happy to take high risks for high returns.

Beirut’s $1.2bn eurobond that matures in March, and which is seen as a key test of whether the government will be able to service its huge debts, has dropped about 5 cents since Tuesday to 77 cents on the dollar. Analysts said the sell-off reflected local banks cashing out at knockdown prices in a scramble for foreign currency. 

“The banks are obviously struggling,” said Luis Costa, head of Ceemea strategy at Citibank. “There is a lack of dollars in the banking sector and they’re very hungry for dollar liquidity.” 

Wracked by popular protests over corruption and government mismanagement, Lebanon is one of the world’s most indebted countries, with a debt burden of some $88bn, or about 160 per cent of gross domestic product. It is struggling with simultaneous currency, fiscal, and economic crises, which have cut the street value of the Lebanese pound by at least 30 per cent against the official rate and pushed thousands into joblessness. 


Analysts said the banks’ dumping of the March 2020 eurobond was worrying, as until now the country’s financial stability has tended to hinge on co-operation between the government and local lenders, which buy up debt in both local and foreign currencies. 

The theory was that a higher proportion of local rather than foreign debtholders would help in negotiating any restructuring, as neither side wanted the other to collapse. Now, the fear is that overseas bondholders will force tougher terms on the sovereign if it opts to restructure its debts, as has been the case in other emerging economies that have borrowed more than they can handle.

Dan Azzi, a retired bank chairman, likened the local banks’ sell-off to the “prisoner’s dilemma” — a game theory paradox in which two individuals trying to protect themselves at the expense of each other end up leaving both worse off overall. By leaving their positions the local banks have “increased the probability of default for sure,” Mr Azzi argued. 

According to calculations by Capital Economics, the most reliable indicator of ultimate recoveries from a sovereign default is the level of public debt compared with the size of the economy, around the time of a crisis. As such, the consultancy estimates that investors should prepare for haircuts of 60 per cent or 70 per cent.

Lebanon’s newly appointed cabinet is partially staffed by technocrats selected by political parties dominated by Iran-backed Hizbollah. 

It faces a tough decision over whether to use limited foreign reserves to pay creditors and avoid default, or prioritise making the hard currency available to importers. Economists estimate Lebanon will need $5bn this year to cover its basic needs. 

FT : Traders pay up for protection against sharp falls in US stocks

Traders pay up for protection against sharp falls in US stocks
Spreading coronavirus and looming presidential election has investors on edge

Traders have been scrambling to protect themselves from a collapse in US stocks, spooked by the coronavirus outbreak, the looming presidential race and the sheer strength of last year’s rally.

The US equity market climbed 29 per cent in 2019 and started this year strongly, but the spreading nervousness has sent the S&P 500 index down by about 2.5 per cent since the middle of the month.

The Cboe Volatility index — known as the market’s “fear gauge” — suggests that traders are now bracing for sharper moves. The 10-day moving average volume of Vix call options — derivatives that allow traders to benefit from a spike in turbulence — has increased from 200,000 traded at the start of January to about 400,000.

The Vix itself has climbed from a low of about 12 points in mid-January to over 18 on Thursday, when the S&P 500 index was off by 0.7 per cent by midday in New York. 

There are many negative factors “that are screaming for a big stock sell-off”, said Stephen Aniston, president of vixcontango.com, a volatility trading analytics provider. 

Activity in put options linked to the US stock market, which offer investors protection against equities slumping, has also been rising in recent weeks as the spreading coronavirus and the approaching US presidential election has investors on edge.

Trading in S&P 500 put options has climbed to levels not seen since September. The 10-day moving average for put volume on the S&P 500 has gone from 720,000 at the start of January to 920,000, again the highest since October.

Traders said the flurry of hedging activity is similar to October 2018, when Federal Reserve chair Jay Powell’s remarks on interest rate increases and “quantitative tightening” rattled the market, and also in February 2018, when Vix-linked funds hit trouble.

A slide in government bond yields and a rise in gold prices are further signs of investors’ sharpened appetite for safe assets, traders noted. The benchmark 10-year US Treasury yield sank to a four-month low below 1.55 per cent on Thursday, while gold has nudged above $1,580 a troy ounce.

The upcoming US presidential election has also prompted some investors to buy insurance against market declines. Senator Bernie Sanders recently surpassed former US vice-president Joe Biden in a poll on the popular political betting site PredictIt for the first time, just days ahead of the first caucus for the 2020 Democratic presidential nomination.

A Deutsche Bank poll indicated that 90 per cent of clients thought that a victory for Mr Sanders would be negative for the US stock market. The left-leaning US senator from Vermont is now in the lead with a 39 per cent chance of winning the Democratic nomination, according to bets on PredictIt. Data gathered by Real Clear Politics has him ahead in Iowa, which casts the first votes of the 2020 campaign next week.

“The market is going to start to price in some serious probability of a leftwing Democratic win, which will hit stocks quite a bit,” Mr Aniston said.

Investors are also worried that underwhelming corporate profits will unsettle the stock market, given how far and fast it rallied over the past year. “We now see the market fully valued, particularly within US equities. This is not going to persist indefinitely,” warned Erin Browne, a managing director at Pimco.

FT : Ferrari in legal battle over name of its first SUV

Ferrari in legal battle over name of its first SUV
Carmaker is suing a tiny charity over trademarking of Italian word for thoroughbred

A legal battle has broken out between Ferrari and a tiny sports charity over the Italian word for thoroughbred.

One of Italy’s most famous brands has launched proceedings against the not-for-profit Purosangue Foundation, claiming that it has not made sufficient commercial use of the name to warrant exclusivity.

Purosangue means literally “pure blood” and was chosen by the charity to reflect its campaign work against doping in sports. It is also the name of Ferrari’s first SUV, which is due to go on sale in 2022.

The foundation said it registered the word as a trademark for clothing and other products in 2013, and had sought talks with the carmaker, but blocked Ferrari’s registration to trademark the brand in Europe when no agreement could be reached.

Alessandro Masetti, a lawyer who is representing Purosangue pro-bono said: “This is David versus Goliath.” The brand has been in constant use, he said, including in a partnership to produce branded sneakers and clothes with Adidas, a sponsor of the charity.

Ferrari claimed the registration should be removed because of lack of use over the past five years, he said. “But we have plenty of proof of our activity.”

The case will be heard by a court in Bologna on March 5.

A spokesman for Ferrari said the company “does not comment on pending legislation”.

Max Monteforte, a running coach and former professional runner who founded the charity, said: “It is an injustice. Why should we give up our identity? They should have checked first.

“We are small so it’s hard to defend our brand, but we are doing important work.”

As well as its anti-doping work, the foundation has also set up training camps for runners in Kenya, and funds health check-ups for the elderly.

Michele Costabile, a professor of marketing at Luiss University in Rome, said it was unsurprising that Ferrari would seek to control its brand.

“Ferrari is . . . among the best known and most loved [brands],” he said. “The name Purosangue works well with the Ferrari horse logo, and they will be looking to the future and the possibility of it becoming an autonomous brand in its own right.”

Mr Monteforte said he was not intimidated by Ferrari’s prestige. “I am an athlete, used to getting up at 4.30am to train, so I have a certain mentality. I am not going to be scared off, even knowing that we are up against one of the most important brands in the world.”

Ferrari spun off from Fiat Chrysler in 2015 to become an autonomous publicly listed company. Last year, chief executive Louis Camilleri said Ferrari would halve its number of brand licensing agreements to focus on clothing and entertainment.

FT : Why hedge funds are still searching for the next big thing

Why hedge funds are still searching for the next big thing
Today’s liquidity-drenched markets make it much harder to pick winners

Stock markets are not making life easy for hedge funds. The discomfort looks likely to continue for some time.

January had been shaping up quite nicely for equity-focused managers until a widespread market sell-off, sparked by the coronavirus outbreak, eroded much of their gains. Such funds were up just 0.2 per cent to Tuesday, according to data group HFR.

Managers find themselves in a dilemma. In runaway market rallies such as this one, they feel investors give them little credit for picking out overvalued stocks. To a much greater extent than in previous bull runs, share prices are often supported by central bank stimulus. That keeps borrowing costs low, sustaining risky business models.

But bear markets present dangers too. Managers can be lured into taking on too many bets on rising stocks, particularly if the good times last as long as they have, only to find they offer investors little protection when share indices fall. This happened in 2018 when hedge funds underperformed in a falling market.

The same may have happened this month: equity hedge funds’ net bets on rising stocks — after subtracting “short” positions, where they bet on prices falling — were running close to their highest levels of the previous 12 months, according to Goldman Sachs.

At the heart of the problem is a lack of strong trading themes, which throw up stocks to short. Unlike the dotcom bust of the early 2000s, which offered a perfect opportunity to bet on falling tech stocks, or the subprime crisis — targeted by a smart few — attractive short trades have been few and far between.

The demise of the high street retail sector has offered some opportunities, and the UK’s exit from the EU on Friday might do so too, although Brexit has so far been a frustrating trade for hedge funds.

But in general, trying to find profitable shorts has been hard going. Lansdowne Partners, one of Europe’s biggest hedge funds, told investors in its European Absolute Opportunities fund this month that its top 10 losing positions last year had all been short bets, according to a letter seen by the Financial Times. Investors have been voting with their feet. Last year they pulled $22.4bn out of equity hedge funds, according to HFR.

More worryingly for the sector, some investors may be pulling out because they do not trust managers to protect them in a downturn. Investors are “scaling back” from traditional long-short funds, said Anthony Todd, chief executive of Aspect Capital, a computer-driven hedge fund that follows market momentum.

There will be good reasons to have money in hedge funds when the next bear market comes. But, as long as assets are pumped up by central bank stimulus, investors will continue to question why they should pay hedge funds’ steep fees when they can get much better returns from a cheap tracker.

FT : 1/Off Paris — the French label making upcycling sexy

1/Off Paris — the French label making upcycling sexy
Why buy new? This sustainable brand is making modern must-haves from discarded designer clothes

Denim jackets spliced with Chanel tweed, crisp white shirts with double Ralph Lauren collars and trenchcoats cut with oversized lapels, lined with Burberry’s signature check. I am not looking at the perfectly curated rail in a “hype” Parisienne concept store; I’m standing in the showroom of 1/Off Paris, a new label selling genderless clothes upcycled from vintage items, many of which are designer.

Dutch co-founders Xuan-Thu Nguyen, head of design, and Renée van Wijngaarden, head of communications and marketing, met just 14 months ago. Both had seen first-hand the amount of waste produced by the fashion industry. Nguyen’s family once owned large-scale clothing factories in the Netherlands, where she saw 20,000 sq ft storage facilities piled floor-to-ceiling with unwanted clothes. Wijngaarden was formerly head of brand partnerships at luxury vintage etailer Vestiaire Collective and watched as warehouse after warehouse was filled with unwanted luxury products. Thus they decided to create a brand that would use these discarded clothes, extending their lifecycle and helping to make the industry more circular by using existing resources.

The response was immediate: within six months of releasing their first collection, they have produced a capsule collection and pop-up shop for Harvey Nichols and moved into bigger offices in Paris to accommodate their growing staff (their atelier now boasts 5 full time seamstresses,).


Why? Because customer demand for their one-of-a-kind items is high — very high. Almost as soon as each trench, jacket or jean goes online, it sells out. This doesn’t surprise me; most upcycled clothing looks drab, but 1/Off’s pieces look as if they came fresh from the luxury stores in which they originated.

“I think our consumers see we have a very different approach to other fashion labels,” says Wijngaarden of 1/Off’s rapid growth. “They can understand our story and what we do, they can see it is authentic. Consumers more than ever want to know where their clothes come from and how they are made. Our process is transparent and so our clothes feel personal.”

Considering the enormity of the fashion waste crisis, 1/Off feels highly topical. A 2017 report by the Ellen MacArthur Foundation showed that one garbage truck’s worth of textiles is wasted each second, and not even 1 per cent is recycled. It also estimates that by 2050 the industry’s contribution to annual global carbon emissions will rise to 25 per cent.

However, consumer mindsets are changing. A 2019 Euromonitor International consumer survey revealed that 60 per cent are worried about climate change, and 64 per cent try to have a positive impact on the environment through everyday actions. That behaviour does not always translate to shopping, however, which is still driven primarily by aesthetics and price.

It’s 1/Off’s ability to compete on three fronts — looks, eco-credentials and, to a certain extent, price — that have made its collaboration with Harvey Nichols a hit. “Without doing anything other than putting them on the shop floor, all the blazers sold out in the first week,” says buying director Laura Larbalestier.

Although 1/Off’s clothes aren’t exactly cheap, their prices are certainly competitive compared with box-fresh luxury garments. Shirts retail between £180-£350, trenchcoats start at £850 and one striking Saint Laurent denim hybrid coat is online for £2,200 (on Saint Laurent’s website trenchcoats retail between £1,930- £3,460).

“Fashion has for so long been dictated by season, old versus new, discount versus full price — 1/Off works outside of this cycle.” says Larbalestier. “It’s original, the pieces make a statement and are easy to mix with things you already own. They are extending the life of the clothes by reinterpreting them into something completely unique whilst also creating a more circular system.”

The practice of upcycling is growing within fashion, highlighted at Paris Couture last month with houses Maison Margiela, Ronald van der Kamp and Julie de Libran all showcasing collections using second-hand materials.

But it’s not just luxury houses making the changes, an entire cohort of young designers are forging a new future for upcycling and making it into a luxury concept. London-based menswear designer Bethany Williams only uses organic or recycled materials such as discarded bell tents. Dutch designer Duran Latnik, like 1/Off, uses discarded vintage pieces from Gucci to McQueen to create his collage-feel collections, Latnik has also collaborated with retailers Liberty London and Browns Boutique. And last year, four out of the eight LVMH finalists used either recycled or waste materials within their collections (Williams among them). Upcycling also now has an official certification process, “UpMade”, created by Estonian-based fashion designer Reet Aus, to ensure brands meet specific criteria.

“Upcycling has really started with designers themselves,” says Larbalestier. “They are looking at ways to recreate the supply chain and consumers have really responded.”

One of the biggest challenges for the duo is sourcing their pieces to create a continuous and coherent ready-to-wear collection that is appealing and wearable. “We used to pick out a lot of the vintage pieces by hand going to vintage markets or buying loads of clothes by the kilo,” says Nguyen. “It was hard to get a lot of similar pieces; it was too mismatch. We would find a great Saint Laurent jacket but not another.”

The two now predominantly rely on specialised vintage buyers and second-hand sites such as eBay. “The vintage market itself is not transparent,” says Wijngaarden, “but last year we worked to correct this within our business model, focusing on a supply chain with a more transparent network.” The team has done this by attempting to work with suppliers who value a more sustainable process. However, although 1/Off uses pre-owned clothing the duo do seek high-quality items that aren’t necessarily always destined for landfills. Discarded luxury pieces are often sought out for resale. To counter this, both say that they are not using virgin materials (except for some strong thread which they do have to buy new to use on their more technical pieces), and this makes their business unique. Buttons are recycled, taken off old clothing and the majority of threads are old stock.

Making an item of clothing can take anywhere from four hours to a few days. Because each vintage piece is unique, and because the pair like to work almost exclusively with high-end labels such as Saint Laurent, Chanel and Ralph Lauren, their seamstresses have to tackle each garment individually from start to finish. “Not all Chanel tweed blazers have buttons in the same place, or sleeves sewn the same,” says Nguyen, “so it takes a lot of expertise to re-work it into one of our in-house styles. The trick is to make each old piece work within the current collection whilst keeping its identity. The pieces we choose are already of such high quality — we just want to update them.”

Part of 1/Off’s appeal lies in the respect they have for each garment’s history. There’s a joy in discovering a name a previous owner has written on a label, an extra loop sewn into a collar or initials monogrammed on an inner coat pocket. All these details they leave.

Due to the nature of 1/Off’s model, surely the idea of scaling production is of some concern? Apparently not. “The vintage market is vast, there is so much waste and there are plenty of resources,” says Wijngaarden. “And due to our production being entirely in-house, we can expand easily. We aren’t limited; it’s just a new way of thinking.”

What does 2020 hold for the brand? “We now have massive labels approaching, like Levi’s, to collaborate or asking us to give advice on our upcycling model,” says Wijngaarden. “It’s a super exciting time, for us and also for the industry. We hope to grow, sustainably, and we want to show that fashion’s mindset can change.”