WWD : LVMH’s Marc Jacobs Talks With Authentic Collapse: Sources

LVMH’s Marc Jacobs Talks With Authentic Collapse: Sources
LVMH was said to be in discussions to sell the designer business to the brand management firm.

The Marc Jacobs American homecoming is going to have to wait.

Three sources told WWD that talks to sell the business to Jamie Salter’s Authentic Brands Group have fallen apart.

For now, the brand remains in the portfolio of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, where it’s been since Jacobs became creative director of Louis Vuitton in 1997.

But it’s not clear just how long that status quo will reign. Dealmakers rarely say die and talks sometimes start and stop over years before a transaction actually gets done — or not.

LVMH declined to comment and Authentic could not immediately be reached.

While a dozen years ago LVMH looked to stand up Marc Jacobs on its own with an initial public offering, that is not in the cards now and the luxury giant has been said to be considering some other exit in recent years.

Those rumors became a reality this year when LVMH was said to have hired bankers to shop the business with a $1 billion price tag.

There were fewer interested buyers than there once would have been as big multibrand fashion houses have fallen out of favor in the U.S., but a potential Marc Jacobs sale did cause a flurry of excitement among the brand management crowd.

And in that crowd, Salter’s Authentic is the leader.

The New York-based company owns scores of brands — from Reebok and Quiksilver to Brooks Brothers and Ted Baker — and works with licensing partners to produce the goods, driving more than $32 billion in annual sales at retail.

Salter has said the company is on the glide path to get to $50 billion in sales, but to get to his goal of $100 billion, Authentic is going to have to keep buying brands of scale.

Marc Jacobs wouldn’t have been the largest of Authentic’s brands, but it would have been among the most fashionable. If the acquisition had gone through it would have amounted to a kind of test of the brand management business model for designers, alongside WHP Global’s acquisition this year of Vera Wang.

While it’s not clear exactly why the talks with Authentic struggled, it was something of a complex transaction. Jacobs himself is believed to still hold a stake in the business and his involvement would have had to have been worked out. Brand management companies also make their money through their licensees and sources said LVMH was not releasing the kind of data that Authentic’s partners needed to fully understand the brand’s potential.

Additionally, the luxury giant was said to have come into the talks with a firm position on the price, limiting negotiations.

Salter, as usual, also has several deals underway.

In August, Authentic inked a deal to buy a 51 percent stake in a company owning all of Guess’ intellectual property, valuing Guess Inc. at $1.4 billion.

WWD : Safilo Group Says Price Adjustments and Reducing Reliance on China Bolster

Safilo Group Says Price Adjustments and Reducing Reliance on China Bolstered Q3
Sales performance in Asia-Pacific and Europe boosted revenues in the third quarter and first nine months of the year.

MILAN — Amid tariff and forex challenges, Italy’s Safilo Group continues to hold strong. The Padua, Italy-based eyewear group, which has contemporary and lifestyle brands like Carrera, David Beckham, Tommy Hilfiger, Boss, Carolina Herrera and Marc Jacobs in its portfolio, saw sales and margins improve in the first nine months of year, as the sales performance in Asia-Pacific and Europe offset lackluster results in the Rest of the World category and North America.

Safilo closed the first nine months of 2025 with sales slightly higher, 0.1 percent, to 758.4 million euros from 757.4 million euros a year earlier. At constant exchange rates, revenues rose 2.2 percent.

In the third quarter, sales decreased 2.1 percent to 220.8 million euros, compared with 225.4 million euros in the same period last year. At constant exchange rates, sales were up by 2.1 percent.

Gross profit totaled 131.7 million euros in the third quarter, a decrease of 1.2 percent compared to the gross margin in the third quarter of 2024. Gross margin increased by 60 basis points, rising to 59.7 percent, in the same period.

Prescription frames continued to grow across all regions, while sunglass sales boosted sales in Europe. In terms of brands Carrera, David Beckham, Marc Jacobs, Boss, Kate Spade and Carolina Herrera led the positive performance.

The firm’s efforts to diversify its geographical footprint to offset a challenging North American market and continued tariff pressure helped boost margins in the third quarter.

Its adjusted EBITDA margin in the three month period rose 210 basis points to 10 percent from 7.9 percent versus in the third quarter the same period a year earlier.

Adjusted earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization in the third quarter surged 24.3 percent to 22.1 million euros compared with a year earlier. This figure excluded nonrecurring expenses of around 1 million euros due to restructuring costs.

“In the quarter, our operations continued to face pressure from tariffs. Yet the effectiveness of our mitigation actions, together with favorable price/mix dynamics and the gradual normalization of logistics and marketing costs, led to a year on year improvement…,” the firm said in a statement.

As of Sept. 30, net debt stood at 30.4 million euros, compared with 42.4 million euros at the end of June. On an adjusted basis and before IFRS 16, a European accounting rule that requires firms to record all future lease rents as debt on the balance sheet was applied, this figure was positive at 10.7 million euros.

“Thanks to this solid operating performance and our disciplined working capital management, we delivered another quarter of robust cash flow generation, which enabled us, for the first time in our history, to reach a positive net financial position, pre-IFRS 16,” Safilo Group chief executive officer Angelo Trocchia said.

In its first-half results in July, Safilo reported that U.S. President Donald Trump’s tariffs and trade policies spurred the acceleration of Safilo’s supply chain diversification, and selective price adjustments in the U.S. In May, the firm said it also continued to source from South East Asia to reduce the company’s reliance on China with the goal to bring China-sourced production below 40 percent within the next 12 months. At the time, the firm said it was evaluating an expansion of its U.S. manufacturing footprint with a potential increase in capacity at its facility in Utah.

A Mixed Global Performance
In terms of sales performance, Europe and Asia-Pacific outperformed.

Sales in Europe edged up 3 percent to 334 million euros in the first nine months, and rose 6.7 percent to 90.9 million euros.

In the nine months, sales in Asia-Pacific surged 9.9 percent to 44 million euros, and inched up 1.9 percent in the third quarter to 13.8 million euros.

In the first nine months of 2025, sales in North America fell 1.1 percent to 317.8 million euros and plunged 6.6 percent in the third quarter to 96.9 million euros as the dollar declined against the euro.

Sales in the Rest of the World area dropped 12.7 percent to 62.7 million euros and plummeted 16.7 percent in the third quarter to 19.2 million euros.

Improved Net Debt and Cash Flow
As of Sept. 30, Safilo Group’s net debt stood at 30.4 million euros compared with 42.2 million euros at the end of June. Before IFRS or European accounting standards were applied, this figure was positive for the first time in the firm’s history, at 10.7 million euros.

Free cash flow increased to 20.7 million euros, versus 16.9 million euros in the third quarter of 2024.

WSJ : How China’s Chokehold on Drugs, Chips and More Threatens the U.S.

How China’s Chokehold on Drugs, Chips and More Threatens the U.S.
It isn’t just rare earths. Three products show how Beijing built supply-chain dominance that can impose pain on trading partners.

  • China can weaponize its control over global supply chains, notably in rare-earth minerals, lithium-ion batteries, mature chips, and pharmaceutical ingredients.
  • Chinese suppliers produce 79% of battery cathodes, 92% of anodes, 63% of refined lithium, 80% of refined cobalt, and 98% of refined graphite.
  • China accounts for about one-third of global mature semiconductor production capacity and 99% of global gallium production in 2024.

BEIJING—China has demonstrated it can weaponize its control over global supply chains by constricting the flow of critical rare-earth minerals. President Trump went to the negotiating table when the lack of Chinese materials threatened American production, and he reached a truce last week with Chinese leader Xi Jinping that both sides say will ease the flow of rare earths.

But Beijing’s tools go beyond these critical minerals. Three other industries where China has a chokehold—lithium-ion batteries, mature chips and pharmaceutical ingredients—give an idea of what the U.S. would need to do to free itself fully from vulnerability.

Behind China’s supply-chain dominance lie decadeslong industrial policies.

Once Chinese companies have come to dominate a wide stretch of the supply chain, flooding global markets with lower-priced products in the process, Beijing brings in export controls that allow it to leverage its advantage and impose pain or threaten rival economies. Sometimes countries can procure alternatives at higher cost, but in other cases it is hard—or nearly impossible—to find suppliers outside China.

In a 2020 essay, Xi said supply-chain control shouldn’t be weaponized, yet he also said China must “tighten the dependence of international industrial chains on our country” to deter others from hurting China.

Here is a guide to China’s playbook for flexing its export muscle.

Lithium-ion batteries
Lithium-ion batteries are used in electric vehicles, energy storage and consumer electronics. Whoever controls them has an edge in automotive technology and green energy.


The top two global battery producers are Chinese: CATL and BYD. Even when a battery is made elsewhere, its innards include a significant Chinese contribution. Chinese suppliers produce 79% of the cathodes inside batteries and 92% of the anodes, according to Benchmark Mineral Intelligence. The batteries also use materials such as lithium, where Chinese producers have a 63% market share for the refined chemical version. China also controls 80% of the supply of refined cobalt and 98% of refined graphite.

In 2015, Beijing declared a goal of expanding its homegrown EV industry, which opened the floodgates for hundreds of local carmakers and battery makers. Between 2015 and 2019, Beijing encouraged Chinese EV makers to use approved locally made batteries.

This year, China has taken steps to keep its chokehold by ensuring its technology doesn’t leak to rivals. In July, Beijing said it would require licenses to transfer certain technologies linked to lithium-ion battery manufacturing overseas, and in October it started requiring export licenses for certain manufacturing equipment and cathode materials.

Semiconductors
China now accounts for about one-third of the globe’s mature semiconductor production capacity. These chips are still critical for industries including cars, consumer electronics and defense, even though they are easier to produce than cutting-edge chips.

Meanwhile, minerals such as gallium and germanium are widely used in chips—both advanced and mature—and other semiconductor products such as photovoltaic cells. China accounted for 99% of global gallium production in 2024, data from the U.S. Geological Survey showed. China is the world’s leading producer of germanium, USGS said, without giving exact numbers.

China has spent billions of dollars to build semiconductor manufacturing capability with a view toward self-sufficiency. That has triggered concerns globally about Chinese overcapacity in mature chips, which could push down the profitability of other producers and ultimately drive them out of the market.

China in 2023 announced export restrictions on gallium and germanium, requiring licenses for foreign shipments.

Recently, China blocked the export of mature chips made by a Dutch company called Nexperia that are used in car lights and electronics. The chips are largely manufactured in Europe but ultimately get exported to the world from China, where processing and packaging take place.

China said it blocked those exports as retaliation after the Dutch government seized control of Nexperia from its former Chinese parent, which is on a U.S. trade blacklist.

Following the Trump-Xi talks last week, China said it would let the Nexperia chips flow to global customers again. Still, the case showed the consequences that result when a single relatively modest-size mature chip maker can’t sell its products. Global automakers such as Honda had to shut down factories within weeks of China’s move.

Pharmaceuticals
While drugs sold in U.S. pharmacies or over the counter typically don’t say “made in China,” the country often supplies active pharmaceutical ingredients in the drugs or precursor chemicals used to make those active ingredients.

Most of the acetaminophen and ibuprofen imported into the U.S. comes from China. Those are the active ingredients in Tylenol and Advil, respectively. China is also a significant producer of antibiotic ingredients.

The U.S. imports many branded drugs from Europe, while for generics, it relies heavily on India. Still, a significant amount of the active ingredients used in India-made generics originates in China.

In 2015, China made production of medicines and medical devices an industrial priority. More recently, China said it plans to support development of innovative medicine and medical devices in the next five years.

Perhaps aware of the sensitivity of turning medicine into a political tool, China hasn’t often threatened to cut off drug supplies to the U.S. Still, it signaled awareness of its leverage early in the Covid-19 pandemic, when the world faced shortages of masks and personal protection equipment owing to supply disruptions from China. In March 2020, the official Xinhua News Agency said that if China were to restrict exports of medical goods, the “U.S. will be plunged into the vast ocean of coronavirus.”

FT : The downsizers picking Park Avenue over Palm Beach

The downsizers picking Park Avenue over Palm Beach
Affluent empty nesters and retirees are trading square footage for slick apartments in the heart of New York

Neither the well-travelled path to Florida nor a retreat further into suburbia was the choice for fiftysomethings Pete and Tracy Ganbarg when they decided to downsize from the five-bedroom New Jersey house where they had raised their two daughters. Instead, in May 2022 they packed the bare minimum of their lifetime possessions — including Pete’s Grammy awards for his work as producer on the original Broadway cast recordings of Dear Evan Hansen and Jagged Little Pill, and a favourite Al Hirschfeld drawing of The Beatles — and with their dogs Benny and Roxie moved to a 15th-floor, three-bedroom apartment on New York’s Upper West Side.

With the help of interior designer Elizabeth Bolognino, they created a slick living space with art deco mirrors, original Slim Aarons photographs and antiques that sit well within the bones of the contemporary building they now call home. “Raising our kids in suburbia made sense, but once they grew up, we couldn’t wait to get back to where we’d lived 30 years before,” says Tracy. “New York keeps us young because there’s so much going on.”

Pete was president of A&R (Artists and Repertoire) at Atlantic Records before setting up his own company in midtown Manhattan, Pure Tone Music, and the downsize reduced his daily commute from a one-hour drive to a five-minute subway journey or 25-minute walk. Their daughters, aged 29 and 26, live 25 blocks away. “We go to restaurants downtown — the West Village has the best Italians — or across to Williamsburg, and it’s easy to get back to New Jersey to see friends,” he says. “New York can be tough. You have to like the grittiness and the 24/7 vibe but other than a back yard for the dogs, there’s nothing we miss, and anyway, we have Central Park two blocks away.”

This downsize-to-the-city trend is on the rise at the upper end of the market, says Eric Brown, co-founder of Elevated Advisement at Compass Brokerage. And one that is very much in focus in New York City. In the first week of October, 29 contracts above $4mn were signed in Manhattan, according to the Olshan Luxury Market Report.

“There’s strong energy from downsizers,” says Brown. “We’ve seen a 15 per cent increase in empty nesters opting to downsize to high-end buildings but with ultimately smaller footprints. As priorities shift and bedroom count becomes less pivotal, many look for a real life change. Empty nesters want to travel more, have time with their children and enjoy all the cultural and lifestyle benefits of the city.” The moves are both from suburbia and from out of state. The common thread? The yearning to be at the heart of action.

Prime downtown neighbourhoods for wealthy downsizers include Tribeca, with its low-level converted warehouses, the West Village, Soho and Chelsea, all of which offer the benefits of the “15-minute city”, says Brown. He suggests looking at 80 Clarkson, a soon-to-launch handsome limestone building by Cookfox Architects on an entire waterfront city block next to the Google office in the West Village, with 112 apartments.

The trend is something of a rollback. In the first year of the Covid pandemic, New York City’s population fell 4 per cent, in part as residents decamped to the attractive beaches (and equally attractive tax rates) of Florida. Prime property prices rose 113 per cent in Palm Beach and 82 per cent in Miami from January 2020 to Q1 2024, while NYC registered a 3.3 per cent fall in the same period, according to Knight Frank.

But in 2024, net migration to NYC from within the US grew more than any other US metro area, while the flow heading to Florida slowed significantly, in part due to the increasing frequency of natural disasters, declining affordability and RTO — return to the office. Despite tales of wealthy Americans hotfooting it to Europe in ever-larger numbers, overall NYC remains the global city with the highest number of residents with a net worth exceeding $30bn, their numbers growing 23 per cent last year. In the second quarter of this year, NYC outperformed Dubai for total sales value of super-prime stock, a total of $2.9bn of deals of more than $10mn, according to Knight Frank.

“In our experience, many New Yorkers who relocated to Florida during the pandemic soon realised they missed the energy and culture of the city,” says Renee Micheli, sales director at 53 West 53, a Jean Nouvel-designed 82-floor Midtown tower above MoMA which recorded NYC’s highest-value sale — $46mn — for the first week of October. “Our data shows that nearly half of all Floridian real estate investments in New York last year, about $141mn, went into high-end properties.”

Whether that trend might now reverse with the election of mayor Zohran Mamdani, who has pledged to raise taxes on the city’s millionaires, remains to be seen.

It’s by no means just Floridians making moves. Even New York’s Upper West Side was too “staid” for Dr Michael S Aronoff and his wife Dara Welles Aronoff. Well past retirement age and with his recent knee replacement, Michael is showing no signs of slowing down. He is clinical professor of psychiatry at NYU with a weekly national radio show; his wife is a former NBC broadcaster. Together they are self-proclaimed “gym rats” whose idea of a relaxing holiday is cycling around Vietnam.

In 2023 they downsized to One Wall Street, the artful conversion of the former Bank of America headquarters into 566 apartments. Sitting on the building’s wide restaurant terrace overlooking the Statue of Liberty in New York Harbor, Aronoff says their home has given them new vim.

“We would never have considered living down here 30 years ago when it was dead after work hours, but it has changed, and seeing the apartments and facilities — the gym, swimming pool, workspaces all set in a beautiful art deco building — we immediately decided to move,” he says. “We were among the first to move in and love it. The Upper West Side felt old and as we were getting old ourselves, we wanted something new.”

While their sixth-floor apartment is just over half the size of their Upper West Side home, the 10ft-high ceilings and open-plan layout make it feel more spacious. “My grandson lives in Manhattan so we get to see him and we travel everywhere by subway,” says Michael. “I was never without a car, but we don’t have one now and I don’t miss it because just about every subway line comes here.”

Living in New York does come with its drawbacks. Beyond the lack of space, residents face property taxes that are nearly double the US average. But, as Michael says, you can’t beat the fact that “there’s so much on the doorstep”. The recently built or refurbished buildings favoured by downsizers, with their high-quality services and air-conditioning for New York’s sweltering summers, also help.

Downsizing is rarely more dramatic than Nathan Fenton and Karen Nercessian’s move last year, when they swapped 1,200 sq ft in Jackson Heights, Queens, for just 350 sq ft in Gramercy Park. Fenton runs construction company HMH Inc, while Nercessian stepped back as associate vice-provost at NYU to set up Nomad Centre, a mental health private practice. While space is limited — especially with the addition of Leo, their energetic cockapoo — it is worth the proximity to their offices and their two adult children, who remain in the Jackson Heights house.

“Without a commute, I get two hours a day back, and I take Leo everywhere,” says Nercessian, 55. “We walk and bike and life is super healthy. I have time to enjoy the city, sit in the park, work out and go to concerts. We have the life we want. Being with people is so important, especially as you age. The suburbs can be so isolating.”

Helen Nitkin refers to New York lightheartedly as a “Norc”, a naturally occurring retirement community, for the opportunities it gives her. After co-founding an investment company in 1984 with her late husband Bradley, where she remains chief executive, four years ago she moved from a substantial home in Connecticut to a Park Avenue apartment. Now in her seventies, with a passion for photography, she is vice-chair of the foundation at not-for-profit Aperture Photography. Her elegant home, designed by Sandra Nunnerley, features works by James Casebere, Stephen Shore and Todd Hido.

“I live in an architecturally beautiful part of Manhattan on 73rd and Park in one of the prettiest sections, designed by [Italian-American architect Rosario] Candela. I’m eight blocks from the Met, three blocks from the Frick, Sotheby’s is around the corner and it’s an easy walk to Midtown,” she says. “One of the great things about New York is you can be part of a broad choice of communities. A sophisticated community is on a different level in New York, one of the world’s great centres for culture. It’s in the air.”

FT : Will higher defence spending boost the European economy?

Will higher defence spending boost the European economy?
Deindustrialising regions hope for investment and jobs, but much will depend on how the extra money is spent

On a grey morning in September, a series of small passenger aircraft landed at the BAE Systems’ airfield near Barrow-in-Furness, a rainy town on the Cumbrian coast of England.

Aboard were Britain’s King Charles III and defence secretary John Healey; John Phelan, the US secretary of the navy; and assorted other dignitaries. They were in Barrow to watch the commissioning of HMS Agamemnon, one of the UK’s latest Astute-class attack submarines.

It was a rare turn in the spotlight for a town that has fallen on hard times since the end of the cold war. Barrovians used to gather on the banks of the Walney channel to cheer as subs were towed out to commence sea trials. Since 1991, that ritual has taken place only nine times. The submarine workforce fell from a peak of 16,000 to little over 4,000 in the 1990s, according to the town’s mayor, Fred Chatfield.

“The economy here was in a state of total collapse,” says Chatfield. He traces an arc in the air with his finger to illustrate the fortunes of the town that has built every one of the 312 submarines produced in the UK since 1901.

“Here is the first world war,” he says, his index finger sweeping up, then down. Two more peaks represent the second world war, then the cold war. “When they started doing nuclear submarines, times were good. Then, after 1988 we hit bottom.” On many metrics, Barrow is one of the most deprived places in England.

But Chatfield and others now have hope that the tide is turning, as the UK and other European countries plan to ratchet up spending on defence in response to Russia’s invasion of Ukraine and a more isolationist US under President Donald Trump.

Even as Agamemnon is prepared for service, the first steel is being cut for HMS King George VI, one of four Dreadnought-class vessels that will carry the UK’s at-sea nuclear deterrent. After a three-decade hiatus, submarines are back at the centre of the Royal Navy’s plans, amid a new focus on Russia and the North Sea.

Over the coming 15-20 years, the yards at Barrow — owned by FTSE 100 defence contractor BAE Systems — are set to complete four Dreadnought submarines, followed by up to 12 Aukus-class attack submarines, designed to patrol the north Atlantic’s shipping lanes starting in the late 2030s.

“Now we are at the start of a new boom, but the hard part is convincing everyone that we are going to be a boom town,” says Chatfield. Walking around the high street, he points to empty store fronts. “We didn’t take the king here,” he says.

Barrow is a microcosm of a Europe-wide debate. Leaders across the continent hope that higher defence spending will not only shield the continent against new threats but also generate much-needed economic growth — especially in those areas hit hard by the decline of traditional industries — and stimulate research and development.

Lord Simon Case, former head of the UK Cabinet Office and chair of Team Barrow, a government-supported organisation aiming to improve skills and education levels in the town, says the country has tended to demand a lot from places like Barrow in wartime. “But in peacetime, we have this terrible habit of turning our backs on [them].”

Many economists are sceptical that it can deliver on these often divergent expectations. If the increase is to actually buy significantly more equipment, rather than simply driving prices higher, then Europe will need to make its spending more efficient, rapidly expand its manufacturing capacity and eliminate its many supply chain bottlenecks.

The sheer size of the proposed ramp-up in defence spending — the Institute for Fiscal Studies estimates the UK alone will spend the equivalent of £36bn more per year for a decade — means it will provide a short-term boost to GDP, although not necessarily as big as if the money were spent on other areas. Moreover, economists say that will only endure if the money helps to rebuild skills and infrastructure and boost exports.

It must also spur innovations by smaller companies to boost productivity across the economy, rather than simply swelling the profits of the giant multinational companies that make big-ticket items such as tanks and missiles. 

It is a huge challenge. “European defence growth ambitions could be due for a reality check,” says Louis Knight of Third Bridge, an equity research firm, who warns that the continent has a “depleted industrial base that’s critically ill-equipped for the ongoing surge in demand”.

In the tiny Saarland town of Nonnweiler, whose other big employer is a frozen pizza business, family-owned missile maker Diehl Defence is expanding its production site, in response to rising demand for products such as its Iris-T air defence system.

Germany plans to spend €650bn on defence from 2025 to the end of 2029 — more than double the amount it spent in the preceding five years. This boom, instigated by former chancellor Olaf Scholz’s Zeitenwende speech and continued by his successor, Friedrich Merz, is already trickling down to places such as Saarland, nestled on the border with Luxembourg and France.


In Freisen, about 20 minutes’ drive from Nonnweiler, a division of Franco-German military vehicle maker KNDS that maintains tanks is expected to add hundreds of new roles to its 700-strong local headcount. Finnish defence contractor Patria plans to build up to 3,500 armoured personnel carriers it is contracted to deliver to the German army at the Freisen facility as part of a commitment to local production.

Christoph Cords, chief executive of the KNDS subsidiary, says the contract will guarantee work for decades. “When you deliver vehicles you also have to maintain them . . . So for the next 20, 30, 40 years, you have work.”

The government also last month announced plans for a €380mn upgrade of a local army maintenance facility in the neighbouring town of St Wendel.

The state of Saarland is suffering from the same pressures that have caused more than three years of stagnation in the EU’s largest economy — and raised the spectre of widespread deindustrialisation as the all-important auto industry falters. This month, the last car will roll off the line at a Ford factory in Saarlouis, while Bosch has announced around 1,200 job cuts in a nearby plant producing diesel engine components.

Paul Hollingsworth, head of developed market economics at BNP Paribas, argues that Berlin can press ahead with its vast procurement programme without crowding out the private sector precisely because the country’s industrial sector increasingly has underutilised capacity. 

“In the European economy we are at a key moment in time, where the export-led growth model from before the pandemic has gone and a lot of countries will see demographic decline,” says Hollingsworth. “The bet now is to ensure the economy can grow through domestic demand.”

There are examples of factories being turned over to military production; KNDS has converted a train plant in Görlitz, a town on the border with Poland, to make parts for tanks, while employers in Osnabrück, in Lower Saxony, want the state government to help the arms giant Rheinmetall take over a Volkswagen site that is at risk of closure. 

But experts warn that such conversions are long and complex processes, and that defence spending, however much it grows, could never replace a sector such as automotive, which generated sales of €540bn last year and employs close to 800,000 people.

“One thing won’t just simply substitute for the other,” says Julian Schneider, of the local St Wendel Land Economic Development Association. “Pretty much everyone has a car. Tanks — luckily, I must say — are niche products.”


Expanding capacity means that “there are a lot of things that must happen simultaneously”, says former UK civil service chief Case. “We can send a huge demand signal, but it takes a long time for the capital to flow down the supply chain — and we don’t have the 20 years that normally would take.” 

On the river Clyde near Glasgow, where BAE Systems builds surface warships, about £300mn has been invested in a new facility, robotics and other equipment, doubling production capacity.

Ritchie Linford, delivery director of manufacture and construction at BAE, says the company could now “bring the manufacturing disciplines from the automotive industry, from the volume manufacturing industry into how we build ships”.

Finding skilled workers, to replace the thousands who have retired or been made redundant in previous rounds of retrenchment, is another key issue. Rolls-Royce, which has processed the fuel and built the reactor vessels for all the Royal Navy’s nuclear submarines at a plant in Derbyshire for more than six decades, recently opened two satellite offices in Cardiff and Glasgow.

Lee Warren, engineering and technology director at Rolls-Royce Submarines, says that as it doubles its planned production rates, there is an opportunity to “address some of the recent challenges” facing south Wales following the closure of the blast furnaces at Port Talbot, which has led to more than 2,500 job losses in the area.

Claus Vistesen, chief Eurozone economist at consultancy Pantheon Macroeconomics, suggests that without additional manufacturing capacity, a lot of the new spending “will be inflationary — you spend a lot, with higher prices, for the same goods”.

He points to the huge sums spent buying artillery shells for Ukraine. Prices have increased dramatically, but the supply of shells has failed to catch up. 

Even if Europe does manage to spend most of its swelling defence budget at home, rather than on US-made hardware, the big question is whether the economy will benefit beyond the initial sugar rush of growth. 

Typically, defence spending has a “fiscal multiplier” below one, meaning that each pound or euro spent boosts GDP by a smaller amount. “You get less GDP than you spend. This is definitely not something you would do for short-term economic gain,” says Ethan Ilzetzki, a professor at the London School of Economics. 

For governments facing tight fiscal constraints, investing in other areas — transport infrastructure, the energy transition, or education — would usually look like a better bet, he adds. 

But defence spending can have more positive long-term effects if, as the European Central Bank noted in a recent analysis, it is frontloaded, funded by borrowing and focused on productivity-enhancing research and development. 

Guntram Wolff, senior fellow at Brussels-based think-tank Bruegel, is sceptical that churning out more tanks or artillery will bring long-term gains. However, if European governments direct their money towards new technologies, this will “have a chance of having broader economic benefits”, he says, arguing they should “boost spending on research and development and invest in modernising their own armed forces”. 

Paolo Surico, a professor at the London Business School, also advocates this approach, albeit with the caveat that public R&D in areas like health and education still brings bigger economic returns than defence innovation.

His research suggests that extra military spending worth 1 per cent of GDP could boost output by up to 2 per cent in the long term and boost productivity — providing the money is concentrated on R&D. 

“US defence spending has been critical to an ecosystem that has made them head the innovation race for the last 50 years,” he says, pointing to advances in nuclear energy and GPS that flowed from military research programmes. 

He estimates that defence R&D in Europe is just 0.04 per cent of GDP across the EU and 0.12 per cent in the UK — way below the 0.62 per cent recorded in the US, and that US venture capital involvement in defence industry activity is far greater than in Europe.

Securing such benefits will require European governments to tilt more procurement towards small, high-tech firms developing dual-use technologies and away from multinational contractors such as BAE Systems and Rolls-Royce, Surico adds.

Healey, the UK defence secretary, has committed to increasing direct spending with SMEs to £7.5bn by 2028, a 50 per cent increase compared with recent levels. “We want to make the UK the best place in the world to start and grow a defence firm,” he said during a September visit to Bristol-based Rowden Technologies, a start-up that makes mesh radio sets for the army. 

But many smaller companies complain that prime contractors still dominate because they have the resources to wait years for formal paperwork and payment from the notoriously slow-moving Ministry of Defence.

Mimi Keshani, co-founder of digital training simulation start-up Hadean, says the problem for SMEs “is not capital, it is contracts”. She recalls a discussion about one particularly slow-moving order, in which the official from the ministry asked: “Can’t you survive one more year, until we can sign a contract?”

Lisa Quest, a partner at consultancy Oliver Wyman who led the UK’s Defence and Economic Growth Taskforce, says Whitehall needs to increase the speed to market. “This means changing the way in which the defence ministry procures, and looking at directly contracting with parts of the supply chain.”

There is also a tension between the purely military aims of increased spending — providing Europe with the defence capability it needs to contain Russia with less help from the US — and all the other objectives.

“The problem is that we need those pounds to do an awful lot of work,” says Case. “They must rejuvenate national industry, raise living standards, add skills and reignite tech R&D.”

Rejuvenating industrial centres is also a focus of the recently published defence industrial strategy, which stipulates that Plymouth, Cardiff, Glasgow, Belfast and Sheffield will share £250mn of “defence growth deals.”

The government has also pledged £220mn over 10 years to help revive Barrow and train skilled workers. BAE has bought four empty shops to help revive its high street. “Our relationship with the town is symbiotic,” says Janet Garner, BAE’s future workforce director.

Job creation in less prosperous regions is one reason why defence spending tends to bring bigger benefits to households at the bottom of the wealth distribution, according to the ECB’s research. There is less of a boost for richer households, who anticipate higher taxes in future to pay for the spending surge.

Ilzetzki, who is relatively bullish about the potential for longer-term economic gains, says the mood “has shifted 180 degrees” since the start of the year, with increased defence spending now regarded as an opportunity rather than a burden.

“The perception was that there had been an economic peace dividend since the end of the cold war and that we were going to squander that,” he says. “I was trying to convince policymakers they could do a defence build-up without it being an economic disaster.

“Now, there’s an expectation of miracles.”

FT : Deutsche explores hedges for data centre exposure as AI lending booms

Deutsche explores hedges for data centre exposure as AI lending booms
Executives discussing options including shorting basket of artificial intelligence stocks or using derivatives to transfer risk

Deutsche Bank is exploring ways to hedge its exposure to data centres after extending billions of dollars in debt to the sector to keep up with demand for artificial intelligence and cloud computing. 

Executives inside the bank have discussed ways to manage its exposure to the booming industry as so-called hyperscalers pour hundreds of billions of dollars into building infrastructure for their AI needs that is increasingly funded by debt. 

The German lender is looking at options including shorting a basket of AI-related stocks that would help mitigate downside risk by betting against companies in the sector. It is also considering buying default protection on some of the debt using derivatives through a transaction known as synthetic risk transfer (SRT). 

Deutsche declined to comment.

Deutsche’s investment banking business has “bet big” on data centre financing, according to one senior executive.

However, the scale of expenditure on AI infrastructure has prompted concerns that a bubble is forming with some likening the enthusiasm to that which preceded the dotcom crash. 

Sceptics have pointed out that billions of dollars have been deployed in an untested industry with assets that quickly depreciate in value due to the rapid change in technology.

Deutsche has lent predominantly to businesses that service hyperscalers such as Alphabet, Microsoft and Amazon, and the debt is secured against long term contracts that promise steady returns, according to two people familiar with the bank. 

In recent months Deutsche has provided debt financing to Swedish group EcoDataCenter as well as the Canadian company 5C, who together raised more than $1bn to fuel their expansion. The investment bank does not break down how much money it has lent to the sector but it is estimated to be in the billions of dollars. 

Hedging exposure to the industry could prove difficult because betting against a basket of AI-related stocks in a booming market will be expensive. Meanwhile, SRT transactions require a diversified pool of loans to earn a rating and investors are likely to demand higher premiums to insure against defaults. 

Hyperscalers’ pursuit of superintelligence has fuelled demand for infrastructure that will help them build it — with cost estimates between now and the end of the decade reaching $3tn — as well as businesses that service them.

Europe is expecting a wave of dealmaking and consolidation in digital infrastructure as companies move at breakneck speed to acquire and develop sites.

The Financial Times reported in September that Deutsche Bank’s asset management arm DWS was preparing the sale of its data centre business at a valuation they hope will reach €2bn. 

Deutsche analysts said in late September that such concerns were overplayed, after using AI to analyse how many mentions of an AI bubble there were in English language publications since the start of the year. They concluded: “One AI bubble has already burst — the bubble in saying there’s a bubble.”

FT : Colm Kelleher and Marc Rowan predict the next financial crisis


Everyone is warning about private credit
Everyone has an opinion on how, or why, the booming private credit markets will unravel.

Andrew Bailey, governor of the Bank of England, has warned of “alarm bells” in private credit after a series of high-profile defaults such as car parts roll-up First Brands. 

JPMorgan chief Jamie Dimon recently predicted more credit blow-ups after his bank lost hundreds of millions of dollars financing defunct auto lender Tricolor Holdings. “When you see one cockroach, there are probably more . . . everyone should be forewarned on this one.”

Not to be outdone, UBS chair Colm Kelleher, on Tuesday, offered the newest private credit warning, which was provocative enough to yield a separate alert from an industry titan.

Kelleher said at a prominent Hong Kong conference that the private capital-owned insurers were using ratings shopping on their fast-growing loan portfolios to create a “looming systemic risk” to global finance. 

The former Morgan Stanley finance chief was highlighting smaller rating agencies that are increasingly being used by private equity backed insurance companies to get high ratings on their private assets. He compared it to the ratings shopping on subprime loans before the 2008 financial crisis.

“What you’re seeing now is a massive growth in small rating agencies ticking the box for compliance of investment,” said Kelleher.

His comments were quickly rebutted by Apollo Global chief Marc Rowan as it reported strong third-quarter earnings. 

“Colm is just wrong,” said Rowan on a conference call, stating that Apollo’s insurer Athene does not use Egan-Jones, a small agency that has rated thousands of private loans, and predominantly has assets rated by the three large rating agencies, Moody’s, S&P Global Ratings and Fitch.

Yet Kelleher’s comments triggered a separate credit warning from Rowan, but directed elsewhere. 

The multi-billionaire architect of Apollo’s strategy to match insurance liabilities with high-octane private credit assets said a bust could come from jurisdiction shopping as late entrants to the nexus of private credit and insurance seek regulatory arbitrage.

Rowan pointed to insurers’ increasing push towards the Cayman Islands and other potentially lax regulatory climes, versus Bermuda, where Apollo’s insurer is situated.

“I continue to believe, as I’ve said previously, that we have offshore jurisdictions of significant size that have not produced the kind of regime that is consistent with US ratings and US state based regulatory reform. And we continue to highlight Cayman Islands because it is the largest, but there are others.”

“So, Colm is not wrong at this point in the credit cycle to say that there are systemic risks piling up,” Rowan added.

>>> US After Hours Summary: Busy night for earnings; LITE +14.1%, TDC +13.5%, AT

After Hours Summary: Busy night for earnings; LITE +14.1%, TDC +13.5%, ATEN +7.1%, KD +5.1%, TOST +2.3%, AMGN +2.2% moving higher; TREX -26.8%, PINS -20.1%, UPST -15.3%, CAVA -8.2% lower on earnings

After Hours Gainers:

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: RIGL +23.3%, APPS +21.9%, NPCE +21.3%, FTK +17.7%, ECG +14.5%, LITE +14.1%, MEG +13.8%, TDC +13.5%, VCYT +13.5%, FLYW +13.3%, CDNA +13.1%, OUST +10.5%, ZETA +9.6%, ANAB +9.4%, AIP +9.4% (also license agreement with Altera), SKY +9.2%, NAGE +8.8%, IAG +8.5%, CBLL +7.8%, RVLV +7.6%, NGL +7.4%, QLYS +7.3%, ATEN +7.1%, HCKT +6.2% (also to launch Dutch Tender Offer), PARR +5.5%, MRCY +5.4% (also authorizes new $200 mln share repurchase program), OI +5.4%, AEIS +5.1%, KD +5.1% (also increases share repurchase authorization by $400 mln), MOS +5.1%, PTCT +4.9%, JKHY +4.3%, ASH +3.9%, NVGS +3.9% (also increases dividend), RIVN +3.6%, HG +3.6% (also authorizes $150 mln increase to share repurchase program), OEC +3.3%, IFF +3.2%, CRC +3% (also increases dividend; also to explore decarbonized power solutions in California), AFL +2.7%, DAWN +2.5%, TOST +2.3%, AMGN +2.2%, IOSP +2.1%, SWKS +2.1%, CWEN +1.9%, KGC +1.9% (also increases dividend), VOYA +1.8% (also increases dividend), CHRD +1.7%, MASI +1.7%, SU +1.7% (also increases dividend), AFG +1.6% (also declares $2/sh special dividend), SILA +1.3%, CRUS +1.1%, AIZ +0.9%, LTC +0.8%, CLNE +0.7%, DEI +0.6%, LUCK +0.6% (also increases dividend), INTA +0.4%, HMN +0.2%, MATX +0.2%, AIG +0.1% (also AIG offering 32.6 mln shares of CRBG as selling shareholder; CRBG intends to purchase $500 mln of shares), OVV +0.1% (also to acquire NuVista for $2.7 bln in cash and stock), QGEN +0.1%,

Companies trading higher in after hours in reaction to news: BW +37.6% (project with APLD AI Factory; has sold its Allen-Sherman-Hoff business), KW +30% (receives proposal letter from CEO and Fairfax Financial to acquire co), EVO +11.8% (signs agreement with Sandoz), CBLL +7.8% (files for $300 mln mixed securities shelf offering), WSR +4.1% (receives acquisition proposal), UTZ +3.1% (slew of insider buys), SYRE +3% (interim phase 1 Results for SPY003, also reports earnings), CAN +0.9% (announces $72 mln strategic investment), DRS +0.9% (deal with Australian Heavy engineering co to advance global maritime defense projects), NDAQ +0.6% (reports October volumes), ET +0.6% (ET and Entergy Louisiana sign nat gas agreement), ETR +0.6% (ET and Entergy Louisiana sign nat gas agreement), LMT +0.3% (Saudi Arabia request for 48 F-35 fighter jets clears Pentagon rule, according to Reuters),

After Hours Losers:

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to earnings/guidance: TREX -26.8% (also authorizes new $50 mln share repurchase program), SLNO -22.3%, PINS -20.1%, AXON -20% (also acquires Carbyne), CLOV -17.6%, SSRM -17.5%, PSNL -17.5%, UPST -15.3%, CRSR -14.9%, SUPN -14.9%, RARE -13.4%, KTOS -11.8% (also to acquire Orbit Technologies), ANET -10.8%, GO -10.2%, STOK -10%, LMB -9.7%, HNGE -9.4%, SMCI -8.5%, RYAM -8.3%, CAVA -8.2%, ALAB -8%, TARS -7.7%, CRVS -6.8%, TEM -6.7%, MIRM -6.4%, LYV -5.6%, PRCT -5.2%, ERO -4.5%, MNTN -4.3%, AUGO -3.9%, CORT -3.8%, RPD -3.7% (also CFO to retire, names new CFO), AMD -3.5%, MTCH -2.2%, MCY -2.1%, JXN -2%, KGS -1.9%, EQH -1.5%, GXO -1.4%, WES -1.4%, BHE -1.1%, TFPM -1.1%, ANGI -0.9%, AVDL -0.8%, CTVA -0.7%, ALGT -0.6%, NMIH -0.6%, PRA -0.6%, XIFR -0.4%, CPNG -0.3%, GDRX -0.3%, MBC -0.2%, AES -0.1%, MAC -0.1%, SKT -0.1%, WTTR -0.1%, PCVX -0.1%, GPOR -0.1%,

Companies trading lower in after hours in reaction to news: RARE -13.4% (announces sale of additional 25% of royalty interest from Kyowa Kirin), METC -8.6% ($300 mln convertible notes offering), GH -7.3% ($300 mln convertible notes offering; also $250 mln stock offering), ELVA -6.2% (stock offering), EL -2.2% (files for 11,301,323 share offering by selling shareholders), SNDA -1.8% (SNDA in discussions to acquire CHTH, according to WSJ), CRBG -1.3% (AIG offering 32.6 mln shares of CRBG as selling shareholder; CRBG intends to purchase $500 mln of shares), IONQ -1.1% (AMZN exits position), PLOW -0.7% (files mixed securities shelf offering), WYNN -0.1% (files mixed securities shelf offering),