Wired : The Dune NFT Fiasco Is the Least of Crypto's Legal Worries

The Dune NFT Fiasco Is the Least of Crypto's Legal Worries
Spice DAO's copyright misstep shows how many questions there are about the rules of cryptoart. This is an opportunity for transformation

BEFORE SPICE DAO dropped $3 million on a rare copy of Alejandro Jodorowsky’s production book for Dune at Christie’s, the group tweeted its intention to “tokenize” the book.

It can’t do that.

The decentralized autonomous organization has since backpedaled, now saying (somewhat implausibly) that it never believed owning a copy of the book would equal ownership of copyright, with the attendant rights to reproduce the work in NFT form or prepare derivative works. The incident has nevertheless captured the attention of crypto skeptics, who point to the Spice DAO purchase as an example of what can go wrong when crypto enthusiasts get ahead of themselves.

Whoever was tasked with legal research at Spice DAO seems to have bungled it badly, but many legal questions about NFTs are confusing because there really are no clear answers yet. Because NFTs are just encrypted units of data stored on a digital ledger, usually the Ethereum blockchain, they do not themselves contain any visual content. They are rather tokens that merely refer to works of digital art by linking to them. Purchasers of NFTs typically acquire neither a physical object nor the copyright to a digital one. To own an NFT is to own a signifier without a referent.

NFTs, or non-fungible tokens, emerged from the anarcho-techno libertarian recesses of an internet where “normies” are the enemy and anything as insipidly mainstream as “the law” is to be treated with suspicion. 2021 was the year that NFTs burst into mainstream awareness, with the artist Beeple’s NFT Everydays: The First 5000 Days selling at the storied auction house Christie’s for $69 million—an unfathomable amount of money for an asset that, in an important sense, does not exist.

For some, this is why NFTs represent the ecstatic apotheosis of conceptual art. To others, NFTs are a collective delusion, or one more symptom of apocalyptic capitalism. Polarizing and perplexing, NFTs are nevertheless exploding in popularity, attracting investors who are excited about this new asset class but do not necessarily share the utopian impulses of the crypto artists who have been operating in this space for years. “There’s a new class of investors who are attracted to NFTs and meme stocks because they’re interested in stories,” says investment strategist Yuri Cataldo, “but I would classify NFTs as extremely high risk. It’s exactly like gambling.”

That makes a lot of people uncomfortable, and a culture clash seems inevitable as lawmakers begin to eye this volatile new market, contemplating regulation that will strengthen protections for consumers.

MATT KANE, A former oil painter who now designs his own software, using code as a medium for NFTs, recalls that “those of us who came into it when there was no money had a more collective spirit and a collective vision for the selfless direction this technology should go in.”

The idea was that “smart contracts” would replace traditional legal frameworks governing ownership. Traditional contracts are agreements between parties, usually written in natural language, that create legally enforceable obligations. If one party breaches a traditional contract, the other party can take them to court. The downside of this age-old model is that litigation is often prohibitively expensive. Too often, the wealthier of the two parties in a contract can breach it with impunity because the other party lacks the resources to compel enforcement.

Smart contracts, or self-executing transaction protocols, are software. They are written in the formal language of code. Since they live on the blockchain, backed up by a vast distributed network, one cannot breach a smart contract the way one could an ordinary contract; their terms are effectuated automatically. Theoretically, there are no court costs involved. No lawyers’ fees. No need to trust the other party or the flawed and frequently inaccessible justice system. For these reasons, smart contracts are attractive to some artists, particularly early-career artists, who tend to have less in the way of financial resources.

Artists like Kane have worked to ensure that many of the smart contracts controlling NFT sales contain provisions for artist royalties. In the analog art world, an artist gets paid when they sell a painting to a collector, with their gallerist taking a cut as large as 50 percent. After that first sale, even if the value of the painting has appreciated a hundredfold, the artist gets nothing when the collector resells it. Remedying this perceived injustice, NFT contracts now often provide for artists to automatically receive a 10 percent royalty for any and all secondary sales.

“Royalties allow artists to participate in their own success,” says Kane, “and that’s the way it should be.” This idea is much older than the crypto art movement. Individual American artists and advocacy groups have been trying to write royalty provisions into their contracts since at least 1940, when American Gothic painter Grant Wood announced that he would only sell paintings with the stipulation that he get half of any appreciated value upon resale. Such private agreements have had little success, though. While these “droit de suite” resale royalty laws have been in place in France for a century and throughout Europe for decades, similar legislation has not fared well in the US. In 1976, California enacted a state resale royalty act, but a court subsequently gutted it.

The fine art market is shrouded in secrecy. When physical objects are being traded away to anonymous buyers behind closed doors, it can be difficult for individual artists to monitor resales, let alone enforce their quirky agreements with collectors.

The crypto art community has done what individuals and governments have so far failed to do for American artists. “It really comes down to ethics,” says crypto artist Sarah Zucker, who uses analog video and other obsolete technologies to make NFTs that pulsate in Lisa Frank colors. “If you are going to have a multibillion-dollar industry based on the labor of a class of people, do you believe that that class of people should at least be provided with enough to ensure that they’re not dying in a gutter somewhere, impoverished?”

When I spoke to Kane, he was a long way from the gutter, reveling in the recent $1.25 million resale of his Monetization Generation, an NFT he originally sold for $75,000 in March. “Normally, in the traditional art world, I would not see a cent,” he says. “This time, I had the equivalent of $125,000 just dropped on me. It’s life-changing.”

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Having done well by the blockchain, Kane is understandably skeptical about government regulation of NFTs. “There’s grown to be a community consensus that artists are entitled to royalties, and community consensus is more enforceable than laws in some ways,” he says. “We’re all participating in this new system that’s more concerned with the benefit of the many over the profit of the few. And that’s the spirit of crypto.”

CONFUSION ABOUT WHAT an NFT actually is, and what rights ownership of one entails, has already led to some recent, high-profile snafus. An NFT of a Jean-Michel Basquiat drawing was recently withdrawn from auction on the platform OpenSea after the Basquiat estate made it clear that the seller did not own any rights to the work. The sellers claimed, wrongly, that the transaction would confer ownership of the physical drawing. There are some aspects of the law surrounding NFTs that remain murky and undefined, but this is not one of them. If I mint an NFT of a picture of your cat, that does not mean that your cat has to come and live with me now.

Similarly, the Basquiat NFT sellers wrongly claimed that the highest bidder would obtain reproduction rights, but NFTs do not have the power to vaporize existing copyright protections. Only an image’s lawful copyright holder can transfer the reproduction rights to that image. A crypto artist who makes an NFT out of an original image could theoretically sell their copyright along with the NFT indexing the image, but copyright transfer would not automatically be rolled into the transaction; it would have to be explicitly stipulated.

Other legal issues presented by NFTs are truly novel. For example, because the image associated with an NFT is not itself backed up on the blockchain, if the platform hosting it is discontinued, that work of art could easily disappear. “We don’t have a ton of legal definition around whose responsibility it is to maintain the archival documentation of this artwork,” says Zucker.

In the analog art world, of course, the collector bears all the responsibility. With NFTs, things are not so clear. Zucker pays a monthly fee to back up her oeuvre on a distributed storage protocol called the InterPlanetary File System. But many artists do not, and Zucker wonders what will happen to her work once she’s no longer around. While much of the crypto community remains skittish about the law stifling innovation, this is one of many questions that the law could help resolve. Lawmakers are also signaling that they plan to crack down on fraud in the space. Wash trading, for example, where a buyer and seller collude to artificially inflate the value of an asset, is a serious problem in the NFT market.

Not all of the crypto art world’s legal problems are crying out for public law solutions in the form of new legislation or regulation, though. For now, many of the issues presented by confusion surrounding NFTs may be best addressed by private law initiatives, meaning more education and better contracts.

Some of the more established digital art marketplaces have carefully written terms of service that go a long way toward clarifying legal issues, but many only add to the confusion. Strikingly, Christie’s 31-page Conditions of Sale document contains only a single anemic sentence specifically addressing the copyright question: “We do not offer any guarantee that you will gain any copyright or other reproduction rights to the lot.” Elsewhere in the same document, Christie’s says that ownership of an NFT carries “property rights for the lot (specifically, the digital artwork tokenized by the NFT).” At the moment, this is only metaphorically true, that is, not true in any legally meaningful sense. That one of the most important auction houses in the world is selling NFTs for tens of millions of dollars using a contract like this is more than a little concerning.

The NFT marketplace Nifty Gateway does a better job of capturing the curious legal (and ontological) status of NFTs, or “Nifties,” in their terms of service: “NIFTIES ARE INTANGIBLE DIGITAL ASSETS. THEY EXIST ONLY BY VIRTUE OF THE OWNERSHIP RECORD MAINTAINED IN THE ETHEREUM NETWORK ... WE DO NOT GUARANTEE THAT NIFTY GATEWAY OR ANY NIFTY GATEWAY PARTY CAN EFFECT [SIC] THE TRANSFER OF TITLE OR RIGHT IN ANY NIFTIES.”

RATHER THAN SEEING this wide-open space as an opportunity for industrywide transformation, too many legal actors seem to be more interested in using the law to mold the crypto art world in the image of the traditional art world, with all its limitations and inequities. One strain of thinking suggests that artists’ royalty agreements—perhaps the most promising development in the crypto art space—are untenable and that a stable, mature NFT market will require their elimination. NFTs should be treated as digital personal property, the argument runs, owned free and clear of any legal obligation to their creators. This is a policy choice that would certainly make things simpler for the investor class. It would also miss the point of crypto art, which in the hands of sophisticated practitioners like Brian Frye—a law professor/artist whose work puns on intellectual property regimes and Securities and Exchange Commission regulations—has the potential to become a new form of institutional critique, the self-reflexive 20th-century movement associated with artists like Andrea Fraser and Hans Haacke.

By experimenting with frameworks tailored to the aesthetic and structural innovation already underway, legal actors can instead help remake the art world. They might, for example, help further the aims of the crypto art community’s open source movement. Advocates of this approach to intellectual property are already launching NFT projects governed by Creative Commons licenses. At their least restrictive, these licenses allow artists to waive all rights to their work, making their images freely available to anyone to use or adapt for any purpose.

To answer the question of digital storage, legal actors might decide that artists and their estates are the ones best situated to look after their work by backing it up in perpetuity, and not collectors buying objects and keeping them out of public view while waiting for their value to appreciate. With artists assuming more power through royalty agreements, it might be appropriate to give them this additional responsibility. Putting artists in charge of maintaining their own work could help eliminate other evils of the art world.

The meaning of art ownership could be transfigured. Instead of ownership entailing possession or exclusivity, ownership of the works of art of the future could look more like patronage. In a few years—who knows?—we could even begin to see the traditional art world borrowing from legal frameworks developed to suit the needs and aspirations of the crypto art world.

TEchCrunch : Former SpaceX engineers bring autonomous, electric rail vehicle sta

Former SpaceX engineers bring autonomous, electric rail vehicle startup out of stealth
Image Credits: Parallel Systems
Parallel Systems, a company founded by three former SpaceX engineers to build autonomous battery-electric rail vehicles, came out of stealth mode on Wednesday with a $49.55 million Series A raise. The company, which has raised $53.15 million to date, including a $3.6 million seed round, is working to create a more efficient, decarbonized freight network that flows on top of existing railway infrastructure.
The funds will be used to build Parallel System’s second-generation vehicle and launch an advanced testing program that will help the startup figure out how to integrate its vehicles into real-world operations, according to co-founder and CEO Matt Soule.
Parallel Systems also intends to use the new investment — which was led by Anthos Capital and includes investments from Congruent Ventures, Riot Ventures, Embark Ventures and others — to hire about 60 engineers, most of whom will deal with software, says Soule.

The startup’s rail vehicle architecture aims to solve a few problems: carbon emissions in freight, supply chain constraints of trucking and limits of railway freight. In the U.S., rail network accounts for 28% of all freight movement, but most of that is bulk movement activity — large trains that move primary resources like coal and lumber. A smaller portion of rail freight movement is referred to as intermodal activity, which essentially involves moving steel containers between a range of different modes of transportation, like boats and trucks.
“Rail has a lot of opportunity to grow when it comes to intermodal, and we focus on this because this is where we think there’s competition and appetite for innovation,” Soule told TechCrunch.
Parallel’s patent-pending vehicle architecture involves individually powered railcars that can load and transport standard shipping containers as a single or double-stacked load. They can join up to form “platoons” or split off to multiple destinations while en route, which means they don’t need to hold large volumes of freight to make the service economical, although Soule says they can actually carry much more weight than trucks, which handle most freight transportation in the U.S.
“For the unit economics of freight trains to get competitive with trucks, you need really long trains, and you’re amortizing the cost of that locomotive and crew over that one really long train,” said Soule. “When that becomes a problem is when you’re figuring out where to park that big train, and the answer is, not many places.”

Relying on long trains to transport goods means it’s harder to do high-volume turnovers that handle all our e-commerce wonders because those trains can’t always access urban communities or ports. They require specially built, large terminals to accommodate their physical size, said Soule.
“Our unit economics don’t depend on a very big train,” said Soule. “We can move in smaller platoons and rather than dwelling all day for the unloading and loading operation, we’re in and out within an hour or two, leaving room for other platoons to come in. It’s the more efficient footprint and it enables things like serving ports and creating inland port shuttle systems so you can move the containers from a seaport to an inland port, which is often a better place for trucks to go and are closer to warehousing activities.”
When it comes to autonomy, Parallel sees the railroad’s closed network as the ideal operational design domain for safe and early commercialization of autonomous technology due to limited track access and centralized traffic control. It’s important to note, however, that while Parallel’s long-term vision seems promising, the company has yet to test on national networks — it has been testing its prototype vehicle on a small rail in Los Angeles that’s insulated from national networks.
Rail in the U.S. is privately owned by owner-operators, which makes it difficult for Parallel to test its vehicles and the autonomous systems running the vehicles on a large scale. Parallel is targeting private rail companies as its customers, hoping to sell or lease its tools for them to operate the service on a day-to-day basis while offering a supporting role in terms of providing and integrating the technology. Until the startup gets a legacy railroad partner on board, it won’t be able to see if its tech can handle real-world operations.
The early-stage company is a few years off from developing tech that could go to market, says Soule, but it has an opportunity to own this sector of the market, particularly as shippers around the world not only want faster freight, but also cleaner freight.
The company’s platoon technology features self-propelled rail cars that push against each other to distribute the load, which, the company predicts, will lead to Parallel vehicles using just 25% of the energy compared to a semi-truck.
“The fundamental reason we’re doing this is to accelerate the decarbonization of freight, but the problem that we see is rail’s scale of operations is limited to a market it can serve,” said Soule. “So we’re trying to embrace this energy efficiency, but then break down its operational and economic barriers at the same time. And by the way, we’re making our powertrain electric, which further accelerates the decarbonization benefits because our grid itself is not clean. So when you look at a diesel truck, compared to what we’re building, and looking at the average, real-world CO2content of the U.S. grid, we’re going to be 90% less CO2 per mile to move a unit of freight with our technology versus a diesel truck today.”

FT Lex : Nadella wants Activision sales more than metaverse

Nadella wants Activision sales more than metaverse

Why is Microsoft doing this?
For Microsoft, gaming is a fairly small part of the overall business. In the past fiscal year, gaming revenue increased 33 per cent to just over $15bn, driven by growth in Xbox content and sales of hardware. That was less than 9 per cent of total revenue. But as Microsoft says, gaming is the fastest-growing sector in entertainment. Activision brings PC, mobile and console games, covering all bases. And yes, OK, there’s the vast potential business of the metaverse. Though, of course, that does not yet exist.

Is Microsoft paying too much?
Activision is not running at peak performance. Monthly users are down from 530m in 2015. Titles due this year have been delayed. Accusations of a toxic workplace have hammered the stock price.


However, the company still has some of the world’s most popular games and boasts a 40 per cent operating profit margin. Plus, the share price decline means Microsoft has secured a discount. It is buying Activision shares for $95 a piece. That may be a 45 per cent premium on Friday’s closing price but it is almost a tenth below last year’s record high.

Will regulators let the deal go ahead?
Lawmakers and regulators are on the lookout for monopolies in the tech industry. Microsoft has already made some large gaming acquisitions, buying ZeniMax Media in 2020 and Minecraft maker Mojang in 2014. Buying Activision will make it the third-biggest video game publisher in the world, behind Sony and Tencent. But it will not be the largest. We will have a long wait to find out if this will placate regulators. The deal is expected to close some time in Microsoft’s 2023 fiscal year, which ends in 18 months.

How will Activision be run?
Microsoft has a habit of allowing the big companies it buys to operate independently. See LinkedIn, acquired in 2016 for $26bn. Being left alone would be popular with some gaming creators. But the company’s workplace problems demand change.

A lawsuit filed last summer accused Activision of ignoring complaints by female employees of harassment and discrimination. Critics say the management led by chief executive Bobby Kotick should have acted decisively.

This is a difficult subject for Microsoft. Last year, shareholders backed a protest vote demanding the company reveal more about its own handling of sexual harassment claims. If the deal goes ahead, expect Kotick to step aside. Note that his carefully worded statement did not say he would be chief executive after the acquisition. A clean-up operation would then begin.

>>> US Gapping down

Gapping down
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:

  • OESX -11.3%, UCBI -6.5%, USB -4.1%, FULT -2.7%, ADS -2.3%, STT -1.7%, HWC -0.9%, PLUG -0.9%

Other news:

  • CRDF -11.7% (announced new data from from lead clinical program evaluating onvansertib)
  • AXU -2.9% (announced bought deal offering)
  • UAVS -1.4% (reappointed Barrett Mooney as CEO)

Analyst comments:

  • TOL -1.8% (downgraded to Underweight from Sector Weight at KeyBanc Capital Markets)
  • ALLY -1.5% (downgraded to Neutral from Overweight at JP Morgan)
  • ZBH -1.1% (downgraded to Underweight from Equal Weight at Wells Fargo)
  • TCRR -0.8% (downgraded to Neutral from Buy at Goldman)

>>> US Gapping up

Gapping up
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:

  • PSO +7.9%, CNXC +3.4%, MS +2.9%, BAC +2.8%, ASML +2.2%, FAST +2.1%, BHP +2%, CFG +1.8%, PG +1.1%, IBKR +0.8%, JBHT +0.7%, .

Other news:

  • ZGNX +66% (to be acquired by UCB for $26.00 per share in cash)
  • SOFI +17% (received regulatory approval to become Bank Holding Company through proposed acquisition of Golden Pacific Bancorp)
  • GMDA +10.4% (provides update on omidubicel BLA submission; Full BLA submission on track for first half of 2022)
  • BKKT +9.5% (announced a partnership with regulated digital assets institution Nexo to custody cryptocurrency assets in the Bakkt Warehouse)
  • LPTX +8.5% (to present data from DisTinGuish study of DKN-01 at ASCO)
  • TGNA +6.7% (Standard General and Apollo [APO] nearing deal for co according to NY Post)
  • IBRX +5% (announced interim results from QUILT 88 trial)
  • OCX +4.1% (announced development and co-marketing agreement for two distributed IVD assays on Thermo Fisher's [TMO] Ion Torrent Genexus System)
  • VMEO +2.9% (reported performance metrics for December)
  • DNA +2.8% (announces acquisition of Project Beacon COVID-19)
  • BTCM +2.4% (provides operational and business updates)
  • PWP +2.2% (prices offering of 3502033 shares of common stock at $10.75 per share)
  • CMRX +2.1% (announces publication of ONC201 data from Phase 2 study in neuroendocrine tumors)
  • EXAS +2% (Presents Data Showing Improved Accuracy of Second-generation Cologuard Test and Progress Toward an Even Better Colorectal Cancer Screening Solution for Patients)
  • RVNC +1.3% (received official Type A meeting minutes from the FDA regarding
  • CRL for DaxibotulinumtoxinA for Injection for glabellar lines)
  • MTRX +1.2% (awarded project from Chemours [CC] at West Virginia facility)
  • NICE +1.2% (announced a partnership to digitally transform police case building and investigations to accelerate the pursuit of justice)
  • RILY +1.1% (announced acquisition of FocalPoint Securities)
  • ENLC +1% (increased quarterly distribution)

Analyst comments:

  • RKT +3.1% (upgraded to Overweight from Underweight at JP Morgan)
  • XM +3% (upgraded to Outperform from In-line at Evercore ISI)
  • ARCO +2.8% (upgraded to Buy from Neutral at Goldman)
  • BBWI +2.2% (upgraded to Conviction Buy from Buy at Goldman)
  • BCC +1.6% (upgraded to Buy from Underperform at BofA Securities)
  • TNDM +1.6% (upgraded to Overweight from Equal Weight at Wells Fargo)
  • ABB +1.5% (upgraded to Outperform from Sector Perform at RBC Capital Mkts)
  • AKAM +0.9% (upgraded to Overweight from Sector Weight at KeyBanc Capital Markets)

>>> US Early premarket gappers

Early premarket gappers

  • Gapping up:
    • ZGNX +60.2%, SOFI +17.9%, IBRX +11.5%, LPTX +8.8%, TGNA +6.6%, PSO +6.4%, BTCM +5.4%, CNXC +4.6%, OCX +4.1%, VMEO +2.9%, ASML +2.8%, EXAS +2.5%, RILY +2.2%, PWP +2.2%, IBKR +2.1%, BHP +1.5%, RVNC +1.3%, MTRX +1.2%, ENLC +1%, VAL +0.9%, PRGS +0.8%
  • Gapping down:
    • UCBI -16.9%, OESX -13.3%, CRDF -12.9%, AXU -5.9%, ADS -5.9%, FULT -2.7%, UAVS -2.1%, CMRX -1.1%, HWC -0.9%, SBNY -0.6%

FT : Sony/Microsoft: Activision deal will activate copycat M&A wave

Sony/Microsoft: Activision deal will activate copycat M&A wave
Drop in the Japanese group’s shares looks overdone but a knee-jerk reaction is understandable

Microsoft’s takeover of Activision Blizzard at a $69bn enterprise value has spooked Sony investors. Shares in the Japanese entertainment group fell more than 10 per cent on Wednesday. The combined giant could be a big threat. The more lasting trend will be higher prices for the stocks of smaller computer game companies. A wave of copycat takeovers may follow.

The drop in Sony shares looks overdone. But a knee-jerk reaction is understandable. Activision Blizzard’s portfolio of blockbuster titles — and more importantly its success in mobile gaming — could help Microsoft’s gaming business and Xbox console eat into the world dominance of Sony and Nintendo.

Sony’s electronics and movies businesses are competitive. But it is gaming that drives growth. The unit’s sales rose more than 27 per cent in the quarter to September year on year.

The division is the most profitable of the group’s six core businesses. It relies heavily on sales of consoles and games. The expansion of online and mobile services has been slow. Its network services, which include offerings such as online marketplaces and premium gaming subscriptions, account for just 16 per cent of total unit sales.

Nintendo has the same weakness. It gets 4 per cent of total sales from mobile and related services. Nintendo and Sony will now have to invest much more heavily. Microsoft has gained a head start in the metaverse, and the mobile and online gaming segments.

Small local peers of Japan’s game giants, such as Square Enix and Capcom, rose 5 per cent on Wednesday. Shares in the latter are still down more than a quarter in the past year.

Their depressed shares trade below 17 times forward earnings, a 35 per cent discount to the implied purchase multiple Microsoft would pay for Activision. That should make them attractive to acquirers and thus bargain-hunting investors.

Mobile gaming is grabbing an ever-growing share of global gaming revenues, accounting for nearly 60 per cent of the 2020 total. It is the butterfly net in which Big Tech hopes to catch young users they can divert into their online worlds. Takeovers can only accelerate in a sector replete with metaverse glitz.

WWD : Nigo Wants to Revive ‘Fun’ in Fashion at Kenzo

Nigo Wants to Revive ‘Fun’ in Fashion at Kenzo
Nigo, the new creative director at Kenzo, talks about his ambitions for the brand in an exclusive interview ahead of his fall 2022 show.
Nigo was in junior high school in the 1980s when Japan experienced a boom in fashion designers, with Kenzo Takada among the most high-profile of the bunch.
“I was very aware of Kenzo and desired it, but didn’t have the money to buy it,” he recalled. “I followed it through fashion magazines and looked at the products in the stores.”
Once he accrued fame and success in fashion, as the founder of A Bathing Ape and other brands, Nigo scoured vintage resellers and bought a lot of the things he coveted from that formative period, amassing a collection of garments that he has yet to catalogue, but probably numbers in the hundreds.
“They’ve been very useful as I put together this first collection,” he said over Zoom from his Tokyo studio. “They provided some inspiration and backbone for what I want to do with Kenzo.”

In an exclusive interview with WWD, Nigo shared his passion for and knowledge of Kenzo Takada’s fashion legacy, his ambitions for the brand as its new creative director and his wish to reclaim the “fun and excitement” that Takada brought to fashion in the first place.
He is to unveil his first coed collection on Jan. 23 on the last day of men’s fashion week in Paris, taking over Galerie Vivienne, a covered passage dating back to 1823, its tiled floors bearing the grooves of almost two centuries of foot traffic. The venue is symbolic as Kenzo Takada staged his very first fashion show in April 1970 at his boutique in the Galerie Vivienne.
Expect winks back to the 1980s, when Nigo discovered Kenzo and fixed his image of the brand essence, along with some of the streetwear sensibility that is second nature to the designer, whose real name is Tomoaki Nagao.
Kenzo’s new branding.
COURTESY OF KENZO
When he was named to the creative helm of Paris-based Kenzo last September, it already appeared that Nigo was destined for the plum design post due to some surprising coincidences. He was born in 1970, the year Takada opened his first store in Paris; the two men graduated from the same fashion school in Tokyo, Bunka Fashion College, and Nigo started his fashion career the same year that the Kenzo maison became part of French luxury group LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton.
In a wide-ranging conversation, Nigo shared other parallels, up to and including a similar creative method.
“Maybe it’s a Japanese thing, but the idea of taking in a lot of disparate influences from various cultures and in some way, managing to fuse them into something that feels like it has its own identity is something that I recognize in the way that Takada worked, and it’s something I’m very close to,” he explained, speaking in Japanese with an interpreter at his side. “The inputs may be different, but I think the process is similar.”
“He could write a book on Kenzo himself,” marveled Sidney Toledano, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Fashion Group, who selected Nigo to lead the storied house. “I was so impressed by the knowledge he had about Kenzo Takada. He has some archives that even we don’t have.”
Nigo acknowledged it was a challenge pulling together his debut fall 2022 collections given the time constraints, and the backdrop of the coronavirus pandemic, which has made travel between Japan and Continental Europe extremely complicated, meaning he had to largely acclimatize to a new team and ambitious project remotely.


Yet the designer seized the moment and took a positive approach.
Nigo
KUBA DABROWSKI/WWD
“There was no time to doubt the creative direction,” Nigo said. “It was absolutely clear what needed to be done, and I’m very proud of the way that the teams have come together and understood what I want to achieve, and I’m confident in the output.”
That said, the designer confessed that, despite having been in the fashion business for almost 30 years, he’s new to runway shows and judgment from fashion critics.
“I feel a little bit like a sumo wrestler asked to fight a UFC-style match,” he said with a laugh. “I can only hope that people like what I’ve done.”
The Tokyo-based designer launched A Bathing Ape (also known as Bape) in 1993. He sold the company to I.T. in 2011 for about $2.8 million and left the brand in 2013. Among his enduring Bape designs is his full-zip “shark” hoodie, which first came out in 2004 and recently enjoyed a resurgence in interest.
A serial fashion entrepreneur, Nigo also partnered with Pharrell Williams to launch the streetwear brands Billionaire Boys Club and Ice Cream, and introduced a brand called Human Made, which he wore for the interview: a camouflage-print jacket and a gray, logo T-shirt.
He said it’s obvious that his background in streetwear would influence his designs for Kenzo.
“The thing about streetwear is that it’s become the norm — it’s normal clothes, everyday wear, and extremely accepted now,” Nigo said. “But when I started my career 30 years ago, it was a kind of a counterculture and was not accepted as proper design. As a result, very few people were paying close attention to streetwear.”
In his view, as streetwear has practically become “the default manner of dressing, or even design in some ways,” there’s a gap in understanding of what is authentic to the category.
“From the perspective of the fashion world, streetwear has not been respected until very recently, whereas I’ve been focused on it for my entire career. So to me, it’s very clear when something’s wrong, when something’s an attempt.”
To be sure, he feels that the industry needs a jolt of fresh design.
“I feel that quite a lot in fashion at the moment is boring, and that fashion shows have kind of compensated in a way by hyping up the spectacle element as a distraction from the clothes,” he said. “I would like to reconnect with the sense of excitement that can come just from fashion itself.”


The designer confessed to a “parallel ambition for the creative process, for the people who are making the brand to have fun. I believe that if there’s a sense of excitement and fun in the internal creative process, that naturally flows into the stores and into the products.”
To be sure, that’s the legacy of the Takada himself, a fashion innovator who brought inventive cuts, multicultural inspirations, joyful color and exotic prints to the Paris fashion scene starting in the 1970s.
“The character of the house is fun and exciting. And that’s actually necessary in fashion today. Also, Kenzo is about the possibility for anyone to find fashion fun and exciting, so it brings people into the fashion world. It’s for everyone,” Nigo said.
He lauded Takada’s early fashion shows, which felt like happenings, and were among the first to make music an integral element of the spectacle.
When he was at Bunka College, Nigo didn’t study Takada directly as he was enrolled in fashion editorial courses, but he witnessed how many fashion students were influenced by him, even though the predominant mood in fashion at the time was dark and aloof, heavily influenced by Rei Kawakubo at Comme des Garçons, whose 1982 collection was titled “Destroy.”
While Nigo said he has great esteem for Kawakubo, he said he was drawn to the “colorful, fun, exciting character of Kenzo.”
“He was the the most high-profile and most famous alumnus of Bunka at the time. And he also used to have quite a deep interaction with the school. He used to come back and give lectures and interact with the students,” he said.
To be sure, Takada was a “true pioneer” in establishing himself in Paris as ready-to-wear was exploding, and also having a broad influence on the fashion scene, eliciting praise from the likes of Yves Saint Laurent and attracting fellow designers such as Karl Lagerfeld, Sonia Rykiel and Issey Miyake to his shows.
“It’s interesting because it’s somebody coming from the periphery, moving to the center and having an influence rather than the center spreading its influence outward,” Nigo said. “So that gave me a feeling of possibility, that I could do something outside of Japan as a fashion designer.…I’ve gained confidence from Kenzo sans example.”


Alongside his Human Made brand and role as Kenzo’s creative director, Nigo consults on corporate branding for Japanese digital company CyberAgent Inc., and owns a small chain of curry restaurants called Curry Up. He also has a sake brand with Williams, a frequent collaborator, under the Storm Cowboy brand.
A noted DJ and music producer, Nigo has a recording studio in his Tokyo design offices and does production for Japanese pop groups. In March, he plans to release a “collaboration album” on Universal Records that features the likes of Williams, Kid Cudi, A$AP Rocky and Tyler the Creator, all friends of the designer’s.
Nigo is the latest talent to helm Kenzo since Takada left his namesake fashion brand in 1999. Takada continued to support the brand under several creative configurations, and remained a popular and bubbly figure on the Paris fashion and social scene. He died in October 2020 at age 81 due to complications related to COVID-19.
LVMH initially appointed Gilles Rosier and Roy Krejberg to design the women’s and men’s lines, respectively. Italian designer Antonio Marras ultimately succeeded Rosier in 2004 and continued until 2011, when LVMH repositioned the brand in the then-burgeoning contemporary zone and conscripted Opening Ceremony founders Humberto Leon and Carol Lim to lead Kenzo. The duo won a following for tiger-logoed sweatshirts, slip-on sneakers and caps during their eight-year tenure.
Last April, Portuguese designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista wound up his two-year design tenure, during which he brought a sophisticated and artistic touch to Kenzo, partial to enveloping, nomadic silhouettes.
“It’s not an old brand that needs a reboot. It’s a brand that has maintained momentum. Kenzo was still on the radar thanks to its previous designers,” Toledano said, while acknowledging a desire to further ignite the brand’s development under Nigo.
“He has a very clear vision, in addition to his charisma and his personality,” Toledano said, also lauding him as a pioneer in melding his fashion projects with music, akin to the late Virgil Abloh, who was also a noted DJ and collaborated with Nigo on two LV2 capsule collections for Louis Vuitton in 2020 and 2021.


“The fact that Nigo has this music background, he understands this movement, he understands the new community worldwide,” Toledano said. “The new generation is so influenced by music.”
Toledano said it’s too early to talk about business ambitions, but cited an “excellent reaction” within the Kenzo house when Nigo’s appointment was revealed last September.
“The trade also is reacting very well,” he said. “We have a man with a passion for the brand and a vision. Nigo is here to write a story with several chapters.”

WWD : EXCLUSIVE: Louis Vuitton and Nike ‘Air Force 1’ by Virgil Abloh Sneaker to

EXCLUSIVE: Louis Vuitton and Nike ‘Air Force 1’ by Virgil Abloh Sneaker to Launch With Auction
Two hundred pairs of the limited-edition sneakers will go on sale through sothebys.com on Jan. 26, with proceeds going to Abloh’s scholarship fund for Black fashion students.
PARIS— Louis Vuitton will launch its eagerly awaited “Air Force 1” sneakers, designed in collaboration with Nike, with an auction to benefit late designer Virgil Abloh’s scholarship fund for Black fashion students, marking the first of a string of related initiatives scheduled to take place this year.
Abloh, who died of cancer in November at the age of 41, unveiled the shoes last June as part of his spring 2022 line for the French luxury house.
Vuitton plans to present his fall 2022 collection, which Louis Vuitton chairman and chief executive officer Michael Burke said was 95 percent completed at the time of the designer’s passing, in two shows on Thursday as part of Paris Fashion Week for the men’s wear collections.


Two hundred pairs of the limited-edition Louis Vuitton and Nike “Air Force 1” by Virgil Abloh sneakers will go on sale through sothebys.com, with proceeds going to the Virgil Abloh “Post Modern” Scholarship Fund, which he launched in 2020 with an initial endowment of $1 million, Louis Vuitton, Nike and Sotheby’s said on Wednesday in a joint statement provided exclusively to WWD.

The sneakers in the online auction, set to run from Jan. 26 to Feb. 8, will be made available in an exclusive colorway and a range of sizes, from 5 to 18, with bids starting at $2,000. The shoes are made of calf leather, featuring Vuitton’s signature Monogram and Damier patterns, with natural cowhide piping.
The Louis Vuitton and Nike “Air Force 1” by Virgil Abloh to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby’s.
COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON
Each pair will be sold with a Louis Vuitton pilot case in monogram-embossed orange leather, with a 3D tag in orange leather with a white swoosh on top. To coincide with the sale, the shoes and the sneaker trunk, which is also exclusive to the auction, will be exhibited in the lobby of Sotheby’s New York from Wednesday to Feb. 8.
The event will precede the commercial launch of the Louis Vuitton and Nike “Air Force 1” by Virgil Abloh, which will be available in limited quantities and exclusively through the Louis Vuitton store network, the company said.
Abloh, the founder of luxury streetwear brand Off-White and artistic director of men’s wear at Louis Vuitton, was involved in the early organization of the auction and its surrounding events. “The auction will take place in association with his family,” Vuitton said.
Born in Rockford, Ill., of Ghanaian parents, Abloh is survived by his wife Shannon, his children Lowe and Grey, his sister Edwina, and his parents Nee and Eunice.
Abloh designed 47 pairs of Nike “Air Force 1” sneakers for the spring show, bringing together his two biggest brand partners in an homage to hip-hop culture. Vuitton said it plans to stage an exhibition of all the designs, made in its shoemaking workshop in Italy, with details to be revealed at a later date.
The Louis Vuitton and Nike “Air Force 1” by Virgil Abloh and pilot case to be auctioned exclusively at Sotheby’s.
COURTESY OF LOUIS VUITTON
In the notes for the collection, revealed in a film called “Amen Break,” the brand said the partnership was inspired by the cover of the 1988 album “It Takes Two” by hip-hop duo Rob Base and DJ E-Z Rock. It shows E-Z Rock wearing a Nike Air Force 1 basketball trainer altered with a swoosh adorned in the LV monogram.
“The cover embodied the hip-hop community’s early practice of hacking together high fashion and sportswear, sidelining diverging brands with equal reverence. A cultural symbol in its own right, today the Nike Air Force 1 serves as an objet d’art emblematic of self-generated subcultural provenance,” Vuitton said at the time.


To distinguish them from the original Nike Air Force 1, the sneakers were made with materials employed in Abloh’s Louis Vuitton men’s collections, and were styled with quote marks, a signature of Off-White, which has a highly successful collaboration with Nike.
The style in the Sotheby’s auction features the word “Air” written on the sole, and the French word “Lacet” on the laces. From Wednesday, in the lead-up to the auction, select individuals who inspired Abloh and the collaboration will receive pairs in exclusive colorways that will not be commercialized.
Abloh had established a long-term partnership with the Fashion Scholarship Fund to launch his scholarship fund, which was endowed with a personal donation from the designer and matching funds from his partners Evian, Farfetch, Louis Vuitton, New Guards Group and Nike. It supports the education of academically promising students of Black, African American, or African descent.
”As a Black designer, I found my way through school, and a mixture of creative projects, and I had to make a name for myself. That took a lot of years and a lot of meetings and a lot of runway shows and a lot of work, and I wanted to make that door open for a younger generation to sort of have a pathway that stays open,” Abloh told WWD at the time.
“I was a student on a campus that was largely not as diverse as the world is. And it’s important to set up this foundation specifically for Black students who may feel like in the industry of fashion, they don’t see many people that they can identify with,” he added.
Abloh said he named the fund “Post Modern” because recipients would also have access to career support services and mentoring.