WWD : U.S. Tariff Impact Weighs on January Swiss Watch Exports

U.S. Tariff Impact Weighs on January Swiss Watch Exports
Sales in the period declined 3.6 percent on-year.

PARIS – Swiss watch exports fell 3.6 percent in January, weighed down by the impact of tariffs on business in the United States.

The monthly exports totaled 1.9 billion Swiss francs, or $2.46 billion, according to figures published Thursday by the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry.

The U.S. reverted to negative territory last month, with sales down 14 percent. The federation said in a statement that impacted “heavily on the overall performance.”

In December 2025, Swiss watch exports’ return to growth was thanks to the U.S. and a surprising copilot, France.

“Exports to the [U.S.] experienced significant volatility over [the second half of 2025] as Swiss manufacturers adjusted volumes around tariffs. Onshore retailers are likely working through the tail-end of inventories built up around tariffs, with export data now providing a cleaner read-through to sell-in trends,” Luca Solca, analyst at Bernstein, said in a research note.

Annualized sales figures for the U.S. potentially point to “a consolidation in Swiss watch demand after a roller coaster year,” he added.

On the plus side in January were signs of recovery in Hong Kong and Mainland China, with sales growth of 2.6 percent and 5 percent, respectively. Japan, hampered by an unfavorable base effect, recorded a decline of 7.5 percent, the federation said.

Also entering in the red were Singapore, down 14.3 percent, and the United Kingdom, softening 6.3 percent, while Germany, with minus 16.4 percent, continued its downward trend.

France, registering strong growth of 36.8 percent, maintained the healthy momentum begun in December 2025. That country and the United Arab Emirates, with an 8.1 percent increase, remained among the six leading Swiss watch export markets.

Sales of watches made from precious metals and steel declined 14 percent and 4.5 percent, respectively. The federation said those drops weren’t counterbalanced by the 16.1 percent gain in bimetallic watches.

Bimetallic watches, however, drove overall volumes up 2 percent. That category’s volumes rose 45.1 percent, while those in the other materials segment gained 2.9 percent, outpacing the January 2025 level by almost 23,000 units.

Watches priced at more than 3,000 francs at export were down 8.1 percent, which made a significant dent in overall performance. This was not mitigated by strong growth of sales in watches priced between 500 francs and 3,000 francs that were up 17.7 percent, the federation said.

WWD : Aritzia Acquires Fred Segal Brand

Aritzia Acquires Fred Segal Brand
Initial plans call for reviving the original Fred Segal location on Melrose Avenue in Los Angeles into an "experiential destination."

Aritzia has acquired the  Fred Segal  brand and has leased 8100 Melrose Avenue — Fred Segal’s original  flagship destination, WWD has learned.

The acquisition includes the Fred Segal brand, including intellectual property and trademarks. Aritzia did not disclose the purchase price. Aritzia purchased the Fred Segal brand from Fred Segal Family LLC.

The move marks another step in the Vancouver, Canada-based Aritzia’s long-term strategy to continue to expand in the U.S., but also challenges the retailer to revive the Fred Segal brand so that it lives up to its storied reputation.

Fred Segal founded his namesake brand in 1961, pioneering experiential retail and  introducing what was known as the “California cool aesthetic,” with sexy looks, fashion-forward denim lines, and collaborations with designers. Segal shaped  Los Angeles’ stylistic and cultural identity for decades and the store often appeared on television shows such as “Dawson’s Creek” and “Beverly Hills 90210.” Aside from integrating into pop culture, the store was an L.A. hot spot, drawing celebrities. Fred Segal died at the age of 87 in 2021.

Now the brand enters a new chapter under Aritzia’s vision. ​ 

“Fred Segal has long been a cultural touchstone in Los Angeles — a place where creativity, community and style converge,” Jennifer Wong, chief executive officer of Aritzia, said in a statement. “We are honored  to steward and evolve this iconic brand for a new generation with  the elevated experience and ‘everyday luxury’ that define Aritzia.”

Aritzia plans to restore the Melrose location and its ivy-covered facade, which was destroyed during a recent storm. The plan also calls for creating a new “experiential destination  that reflects the creative spirit that has defined both brands,” Aritzia indicated. “The space will bring together curated product and immersive experiences that transcend traditional retail while also serving as a dynamic lifestyle hub. Our focus now is on revitalizing the Fred Segal brand across product and retail, with the goal of reestablishing it as a true destination.”

Fred Segal is not the first acquisition by Aritzia, which was founded in 1984. In June 2021, Aritzia acquired a 75 percent stake in CYC Design Corporation, the parent company of the Reigning Champ brand, in a deal valued at about 63 million Canadian dollars. The acquisition boosted Aritzia’s presence in menswear. Aritzia purchased the remaining 25 percent of CYC in May 2023.

In 2017, Fred Segal moved from 8100 Melrose to Sunset Boulevard in West Hollywood, Los Angeles. The Sunset location and the Malibu location closed in 2024, victims of the COVID-19 pandemic and the internet. Fred Segal at times also operated other retail locations.

Asked if the Aritzia brand will have a presence at the Fred Segal Melrose location, a spokesperson replying by email said, “Further plans and details are actively being developed, and more information will be shared as it becomes available.”

Asked what criteria Aritzia has for making an acquisition, the spokesperson replied, “This was an opportunistic acquisition that aligned with our strategic priorities. We remain focused on executing our three key growth levers — geographic expansion, e-commerce growth, and increased brand awareness, particularly in the U.S.

“For  more than 40 years, Aritzia has built a reputation  transforming retail into an immersive world of design, culture and connection — delivering beautiful products, aspirational spaces, highly personalized service and captivating communications. With the acquisition, Aritzia will bring that ethos to Fred Segal, honoring the brand’s storied heritage while reimagining its future for a new generation,” the company stated.

Aritzia is steadily growing its presence and popularity across North America, and sees the potential to operate upward of 200 stores in the U.S. alone. The U.S. expansion began in 2007, and was followed by the launch of e-commerce in 2012, and an initial public offering in 2016.

The company was founded in 1984. Aritzia, a vertically integrated design house, is guided by its “everyday luxury” philosophy. The retailer can be fashion-forward, and has a reputation for quality and being spot on with trends. It fills a niche between mass-market and high-end brands. Many of the items in the collection are considered wardrobing staples, versatile and easy to mix and match. Aritzia is further advantaged by successfully attracting mothers and daughters shopping together.

The Information : OpenAI Is Finalizing First Commitments for $100 Billion Mega R

OpenAI Is Finalizing First Commitments for $100 Billion Mega Round

The Takeaway
  • OpenAI is finalizing first commitments for its $100 billion round
  • SoftBank is expected to invest $30 billion over three installments
  • Amazon, Nvidia to invest tens of billions of dollars

OpenAI is finalizing initial commitments from investors in a round that could raise $100 billion at a $830 billion valuation including the investment, according to two people with direct knowledge of the fundraising.

SoftBank is expected to anchor the round with a $30 billion investment, which it will spread in three installments of $10 billion each through the year, according to the two people. Amazon, which supplies cloud services to OpenAI, could invest as much as $50 billion; Nvidia, whose chips OpenAI’s models, could invest up to $30 billion; and long-standing partner Microsoft could invest in the low billions of dollars, according to one of the people.

Those investments could fulfill the company’s target $100 billion, which means additional investments from VC funds and other financial institutions could potentially push the round even past that figure, said the person. However, it’s not clear if the strategic investors will invest all of those amounts as the conversations are still ongoing, said one of the people.

Following this initial slate of commitments, OpenAI is also seeking backing from financial investors, said these people and one other. OpenAI executives have been communicating with existing investors Thrive Capital, Khosla Ventures, Founders Fund and Sequoia Capital about the round, as well as other investors, said one of the people. It’s not clear if these investors will put more money into the company, or how much it would be.

The funding is the first since OpenAI last fall restructured as a corporation that can issue standard equity, a key step in its path to an eventual IPO. Executives have discussed going public as soon as the fourth quarter, according to one of the people.

Investors in the latest financing, which OpenAI is terming its “Series C,” are getting preferred shares that will convert into Class A common stock in an exit, such as a public offering, according to two of the people. They will get 1X liquidation preferences, a typical deal term that promises investors that they will get at least their money back in the event of a sale of the company, said the people.

OpenAI has embarked on this mega funding round after raising about $61 billion from investors including Microsoft, Thrive and SoftBank. Last fall, it sold shares owned by employees and other shareholders at a $500 billion valuation.

The company has tapped investors’ enthusiasm for the AI pioneer as it anticipates surging costs to run and train its AI. Last summer, it forecast spending roughly $450 billion from 2025 to 2030 on those costs, as well as back up servers to support its growth.

>>> US Gapping down

Gapping down
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:
  • EPAM -16.5%, CVNA -14.2%, CAR -14.1%, TBI -11.9%, BTG -11.7%, W -9.3%, GTX -7.7%, LKQ -7.4%, YETI -6.8%, POOL -6.6%, CAKE -6.3%, KALU -6.3%, TAP -6%, VC -5.6%, OGS -5.3%, AEG -5.1%, OII -4.6%, AMPL -3.8% (also authorizes new $100 mln share repurchase program), BHC -3.7%, COLD -3.7%, MDGL -3.6%, CVI -3.4%, INSM -3.4%, BNL -3.1%, RIO -3%, SB -2.8%, WMT -2.8%, BKD -2.5%, OR -2.5% (also acquires portfolio of royalty assets), JACK -2.3%, LOPE -2.3%, TECK -2.3%, CYH -2.1%, TNK -2%, UPBD -2%, CRH -1.9% (also increases dividend; enters buyback program arrangement with Wells Fargo), MAC -1.7%, CNP -1.7%, RS -1.3% (also increases dividend), WES -1%
Other news:
  • BTDR -16.1% (intends to offer, subject to market conditions and other factors, US$300.0 mln principal amount of Convertible Senior Notes due 2032)
  • EPRX -10.8% (prices offering consisting of common stock and warrants)
  • ESOA -10.4% (stock offering)
  • BNC -4.2% (advances plan to revise asset management deal)
  • LYV -2.7% (Judge rejects Live Nation's effort to dismiss antitrust lawsuit, according to Reuters)
  • AMRZ -1.6% (completes acquisition of PB Materials Holdings)
  • UDR -1.3% (files mixed shelf offering)
Analyst comments:
  • HUN -1.9% (downgraded to Neutral from Overweight at JPMorgan)

>>> US Gapping up

Gapping up
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:
  • RELY +21.2% (also names new CEO), ETSY +18.8%, NP +16.1%, HLF +13.7%, LMND +13.2%, FIG +10.7%, DASH +10%, APPN +9.9%, NABL +9.7%, EBAY +8.7% (also to acquire Depop; increases dividend; increases share repurchase program by $2 bln), NICE +7.9%, TROX +6.1%, PWR +5.6%, DE +5%, OXY +4.6%, FPI +4.6%, MTLS +4.6%, TS +4.1%, LILA +4%, XPRO +3.8%, AG +3.5%, FUN +3.3%, CWK +3.2%, OBDC +3.1% (also certain BDCs to sell $1.4 bln of assets), HST +2.9% (also announces sale of two Four Seasons resorts), PAAS +2.9%, ADAM +2.7%, ILPT +2.7%, JXN +2.5% (also increases dividend), ULS +2.5%, SPNT +2.2%, ECO +2.2% (also increases dividend), MD +2.1%, SII +1.7%, THRM +1.4%, OMC +1.3% (also authorizes new $5 bln share repurchase program, including $2.5 bln accelerated share repurchase), CWAN +1.2%, KAI +1.1%, ARR +1.1%, EIX +1.1%
Other news:
  • CDNL +9.9% (acquires A.L. Grading Contractors; provides FY25 and FY26 guidance)
  • HIMS +7.3% (has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire Eucalyptus)
  • DEI +3.5% (Chairman & Chief Executive Officer discloses the purchase of 98,000 shares at $9.96 - $10.25 worth approximately $998K)
  • CMPS +2.8% (prices offering consisting of ADSs and warrants)
  • MGIC +2% (provides several merger updates)
  • ATEX +1.7% (FCC approves rules to expand 900 MHz band to 10 mhz)
Analyst comments:
  • CHWY +2.8% (upgraded to Outperform from Market Perform at Raymond James)
  • GRMN +0.9% (upgraded to Equal Weight from Underweight at Morgan Stanley)

>>> US Research Calls I

Research Calls I
  • Upgrades:
    • Canadian Imperial Bank of Commerce (CM) upgraded to Overweight from Underweight at Barclays
    • Chewy (CHWY) upgraded to Outperform from Market Perform at Raymond James, tgt $28
    • Cineverse (CNVS) upgraded to Buy from Speculative Buy at The Benchmark Company; tgt $12
    • Dentsply Sirona (XRAY) upgraded to Buy from Neutral at BofA Securities; tgt $17
    • Garmin (GRMN) upgraded to Equal Weight from Underweight at Morgan Stanley, tgt $252
    • Korro Bio (KRRO) upgraded to Buy from Hold at Clear Street, tgt $18
    • LeonaBio (LONA) upgraded to Outperform from Neutral at Mizuho, tgt $10
    • Nicolet Bankshares (NIC) upgraded to Overweight from Neutral at Piper Sandler, tgt $185
    • QuantumScape (QS) upgraded to Hold from Reduce at HSBC, tgt $8.30
    • Symbotic (SYM) upgraded to Overweight from Sector Weight at KeyBanc, tgt $70
    • T-Mobile US (TMUS) upgraded to Outperform from Neutral at Daiwa Securities; tgt $240
    • Verizon (VZ) upgraded to Buy from Outperform at Daiwa Securities; tgt $58
  • Downgrades:
    • Cheesecake Factory (CAKE) downgraded to Equal Weight from Overweight at Stephens, tgt $65
    • Fiverr International (FVRR) downgraded to Neutral from Overweight at JPMorgan, tgt $15
    • Fiverr International (FVRR) downgraded to Neutral from Buy at Roth Capital, tgt $14
    • HF Sinclair (DINO) downgraded to Sector Perform from Outperform at Scotiabank, tgt $53
    • Huntsman (HUN) downgraded to Neutral from Overweight at JPMorgan, tgt $14
    • Polestar Automotive Holding UK (PSNY) downgraded to Underweight from Neutral at Cantor Fitzgerald
    • RF Industries (RFIL) downgraded to Neutral from Buy at B. Riley, tgt $10.25
    • Similarweb (SMWB) downgraded to Hold from Buy at Needham
  • Others:
    • AxoGen (AXGN) initiated with an Overweight at Wells Fargo, tgt $40
    • BioHarvest Sciences (BHST) initiated with a Buy at Roth Capital, tgt $10
    • Credo Technology Group Holding (CRDO) initiated with a Buy at Goldman, tgt $165
    • Dauch Corporation (DCH) initiated with a Buy at Jefferies, tgt $10.35
    • Dell (DELL) added to Tactical Outperform list at Evercore ISI
    • Gentherm (THRM) initiated with a Buy at Freedom Capital Markets, tgt $41
    • Grail (GRAL) initiated with a Hold at TD Cowen, tgt $114
    • Kiniksa (KNSA) initiated with a Buy at Canaccord Genuity, tgt $62
    • Lear (LEA) initiated with a Buy at The Benchmark Company; tgt $170
    • Perspective Therapeutics (CATX) initiated with an Overweight at Piper Sandler, tgt $16
    • Rhythm Pharmaceuticals (RYTM) initiated with an Outperform at RBC Capital, tgt $478
    • Surrozen (SRZN) initiated with an Overweight at Cantor Fitzgerald; tgt $40
    • Tempus AI (TEM) initiated with an Outperform at Mizuho, tgt $100

>>> US Early premarket gappers

Early premarket gappers
  • Gapping up:
    • RELY +21%, LMND +16.6%, HLF +13.7%, FIG +13.4%, DASH +12%, NP +10.6%, CDNL +9.9%, NICE +9.9%, EBAY +9.3%, CMPS +4.9%, OXY +4.6%, TROX +4.4%, FPI +4.3%, MTLS +4.3%, LILA +4%, DE +4%, PAAS +3.7%, TS +3.5%, OBDC +3.5%, DEI +2.8%, ADAM +2.7%, HIMS +2.5%, JXN +2.5%, ECO +2.4%, SPNT +2.2%, AGI +2.1%, MD +2.1%, HST +2%, OMC +1.8%, ATEX +1.7%, TGB +1.6%, THRM +1.4%, ARR +1.2%, KAI +1.1%, CWAN +1%
  • Gapping down:
    • TBI -30.3%, CVNA -16.2%, CAR -12.6%, BTG -11.3%, EPRX -9.3%, CAKE -8.1%, EPAM -7.7%, ESOA -7.5%, KALU -5.7%, TAP -5.5%, AEG -5.5%, OGS -5.3%, BNC -4.2%, CYH -4.2%, AMPL -3.8%, BHC -3.7%, BKD -3.4%, YETI -3.3%, BNL -3.1%, RIO -3%, SB -2.8%, LYV -2.7%, TECK -2.6%, JACK -2.5%, CNP -2.2%, WES -2.1%, CRH -2.1%, OII -1.9%, MAC -1.7%, AMRZ -1.5%, UDR -1.3%, OR -1.2%

>>> Europe : Brokers Upgrades & Downgrades - 19th of February 2026 V3(++)

>>> Up
* Aramis Raised to Overweight at Morgan Stanley; PT 5 euros
* Capgemini Raised to Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley; PT 117 euros
* DWS Raised to Buy at UBS; PT 70 euros
* FLSmidth PT Raised to 710 kroner from 550 kroner at JPMorgan
* Garmin Raised to Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley; PT $252
* Gofore Raised to Accumulate at Inderes; PT 13 euros
* T-Mobile Raised to Outperform at Daiwa; PT $240
* Truecaller Raised to Buy at Deutsche Bank; PT 15 kronor
* Vonovia Raised to Equal-Weight at Morgan Stanley; PT 30 euros
* ZIM Integrated Shipping Raised to Neutral at Citi; PT $31.80

>>> Down
* Aena Cut to Neutral at Grupo Santander; PT 28.70 euros (++)
* Allfunds Cut to Hold at Bestinver; PT 8.80 euros
* Arvo Sijoitusosuuskunta Cut to Reduce at Inderes; PT 83 euros
* BASF Cut to Underweight at Barclays; PT 40 euros
* Bravida Cut to Hold at Pareto Securities; PT 112 kronor
* Casta Diva Cut to Hold at TP ICAP Midcap; PT 2.80 euros (++)
* Ebro Foods Cut to Hold at Intermoney Valores; PT 20 euros
* Enea Cut to Neutral at Citi; PT 25.40 zloty
* FLSmidth Cut to Sell at Danske Bank Markets; PT 545 kroner (++)
* Freenet Cut to Sell at UBS; PT 28.50 euros
* Maire Cut to Hold at Kepler Cheuvreux (+)
* MLLCB FP Cut to Neutral at Greensome Finance; PT 2.71 euros (++)
* Polestar ADRs Cut to Underweight at Cantor
* Regional REIT Cut to Hold at Peel Hunt; PT 105 pence (++)
* Schroders Cut to Neutral at UBS; PT 590 pence
* Sensirion PT Cut to 70 Swiss francs at Berenberg (++)
* Sobi Cut to Hold at Danske Bank Markets (++)
* Strabag Cut to Accumulate at Erste Group; PT 108.90 euros
* VGP Cut to Accumulate at KBC Securities; PT 125 euros (++)
* Witted Megacorp Cut to Accumulate at Inderes; PT 1.70 euros
* Wizz Air Cut to Underperform at Santander Biuro Maklerskie (+)

>>> Initiation
* 74Software SA Rated New Buy at Berenberg; PT 44 euros

>>> Call
* Alcon Rises On JPMorgan Positive Catalyst Watch Before Results (++)
* BASF Cut at Barclays on High Valuation and Overdone Optimism (+)
* DWS Upgraded to Buy at UBS on Dividend Outlook; Target €70 (+)
* FlatexDEGIRO Guidance Targets Appear Cautious, Analysts Say
* Maire Slides as Kepler Cheuvreux Downgrades on Earnings Caution (++)
* Truecaller Extends Rebound as Deutsche Bank Raises to Buy (++)
* Zurich Ins. Earnings Could Be Offset by Equity Raise: Jefferies

FT : Private equity spies a way to cut the cost of Electronic Arts’ buyout

Private equity spies a way to cut the cost of Electronic Arts’ buyout
EA’s owners have invoked a ‘defeasance’ clause in the bond documentation

Private equity companies are known for keeping a keen eye on costs, even when times are good. Collapsing software and gaming valuations, though, must be providing an extra frisson for the buyers of Electronic Arts.

Silver Lake, Saudi Arabia’s Public Investment Fund and Affinity Partners agreed to buy the video game maker for $55bn in September. Since then, gaming shares have taken a tumble: rival Take-Two Interactive, for example, is down by a fifth. That may help explain why the incoming owners of EA, known for its football and NFL games, are taking a robust approach to dealing with its bondholders.

Typically in a leveraged buyout, holders of the target’s outstanding public debt receive a payout equivalent to 101 cents for every dollar of face value, under the so-called “change of control” provision. But EA’s owners have invoked a “defeasance” clause in the bond documentation. Instead of buying back the bonds, they will buy a pile of US treasuries, place them in a trust, and use the income they generate and the securities themselves to cover all future interest and principal payments. EA’s notes, due in 2031 and 2051, in effect become treasury-backed instruments. 

For EA, that’s good capital management. Its 2051 bond, issued in a low-rate environment, yields 2.9 per cent while 30-year US treasuries yield about 4.6 per cent. That means the company can spend less on treasuries to make up the same interest payments. Instead of the roughly $1.5bn they would have spent paying everyone back at 101 cents, they only spend about $1.1bn buying treasuries, Lex calculates. Sure, that’s a tiny sliver of the private equity companies’ total equity investment, but every little helps.

Some bondholders, however, are displeased. From a net present value perspective, they are no worse off. They receive identical cash flows to those their bonds promised, now backed by the US government. But these quasi treasuries will be hard to trade, and anyone who tries to sell may have to accept less than their face value.

In recognition of this, EA has offered to buy them back at a treasury-equivalent price of roughly 73 cents on the dollar for the 2051 notes. That might be attractive to long-term holders. But event-driven funds that piled in after the M&A announcement and drove up the price from about 60 to 95 cents on the dollar will be left nursing losses, and are pushing back at the company’s offer.


Defeasance clauses — the name literally means “to make null” — are widespread in corporate bond contracts. But incoming investors might have underestimated the likelihood that they are invoked. With treasury yields now much higher than yields on debt issued in 2020 and 2021, and many private equity buyouts facing lower valuations, EA may not be the last LBO to seek to take advantage of this contractual quirk.