FT : Bang & Olufsen says it will defy luxury slowdown as ‘rich will only become

Bang & Olufsen says it will defy luxury slowdown as ‘rich will only become richer’
High-end speaker and television maker targets younger shoppers

High-end Danish speaker and television maker Bang & Olufsen is confident it can defy a slowdown in the luxury goods sector partly because “the rich will only become richer”. 

The brand, which counts musicians Alicia Keys and Lenny Kravitz among its customers, is seeking to become a major luxury player despite lacklustre sales among premium goods groups. A three-year boom in luxury demand has come to an end in recent months as customers cut spending on expensive items.

Chief executive Kristian Teär said the fact that the retailer, whose Beolab 90 speakers cost £110,000, had no meaningful competition in the premium space was an advantage that “will make us more resilient in downturns”, although he recognised he had to increase awareness of the brand. 

“If you go to jewellery, you have a few brands, if you go to fashion, you have a few brands, if you go to cars, you have a few brands,” he said during an interview at the new Bang & Olufsen store in London this week. “In audio luxury, there is nobody else.”

He is on a drive to recruit Generation Z and millennial shoppers with a penchant for design and technology who increasingly stream music as well as wealthy individuals who “don’t want to have something ugly” in their homes and “have enough funds”. Bang & Olufsen sells its products in 400 locations, including its own stores and concessions in other retailers.

“The rich will only become richer, and . . . we know they want to also express themselves, and they don’t want to have what everybody else has,” he said.  

“The reason why we aren’t bigger than we are is because we’ve tried to be everywhere for everybody all the time, and we were struggling. Now the direction is set, the focus is clear, we know what we’re doing, and that’s also why we show good growth in London because we try to serve the customers who we are targeting.” 

The company was founded in 1925 and it developed one of the first mass-produced radios that could be plugged into the wall, without the need for a battery.

It had a bumpy ride during the pandemic ​​when sales collapsed as the world shut down and supply chains were derailed, but recovered as people splashed the cash on gadgets. However, it recorded revenue of DKr2.75bn ($400mn) for the year to May, a decline of 7 per cent compared with the previous year.

FT : Sky makes £5bn bet on its future in sports battle for the UK’s living room

Sky makes £5bn bet on its future in sports battle for the UK’s living room
The Comcast-owned group has secured rights to broadcast 1,200 football matches a year

Sky will aim to capitalise on its biggest investment in sport in over 30 years with plans to show as many as 1,200 football matches a year, and more funding for innovative in-game coverage.

The UK-headquartered group is hoping that sports will be a key differentiator in the fight — not just against other broadcasters but also against the large US tech giants — to be the primary entertainment subscription for British homes.

Days after securing the rights to show the majority of Premier League football matches for more than £5bn, Dana Strong, the chief executive of Comcast-owned Sky, said that the deal capped a multiyear bet by Sky on cornering the market for exclusive sports coverage.

“It is a big deal for Sky,” she said in an interview with the Financial Times. “We’ve got the lion’s share of every major sport that UK fans crave until the end of the decade. That gives us an enormous runway to think about how we invest in innovation.”

Sky first acquired the rights to broadcast Premier League matches in 1992.

The new £5bn deal will increase the number of games shown every season from the top tier of English football to 215; an increase of 70 per cent on the former arrangement struck in 2021. A separate £935mn agreement with the English Football League will mean that Sky can show more than 1,000 games a season across its divisions. 

Now, the media and telecoms group is putting in place long-term investment plans to make sense of the vast outlay on rights to show the Premier League games for the next four years. 

Sky is looking to show multiple games at the same time via its streaming platform, while also broadcasting a show of match highlights.

“We could play it out on streaming, we could play it out in an app, you play it out on linear channels. So there’s lots of different ways that we can bring it live for customers,” she said.

Other technology and initiatives will bring viewers closer to the action, according to Strong. There are continuing talks about securing greater access to players and managers around the games.

Part of the Sky strategy is to encourage greater viewing among women and younger people. 

Sky is aiming to “make sure that sport is something that’s embraced by every member of the family, not just the dad”, according to Strong. “It’s really important for sport as a business to make sure that we’re bringing the under-35s because if you’re not then you’re damaging the legacy.”

Sky Sports, the group’s main UK rights holder, reported a 40 per cent increase in viewers for its coverage of the opening weekend of football compared with 2022-2023. More than 8mn fans tuned into the five games on Sky Sports, including 2.5mn under-35s.

Claire Enders, a media analyst, said that the Premier League deal will help to guarantee Sky’s future by removing a risk to its TV subscription base, even as the cost of living crisis is hitting the mobile and broadband market.

The group has also held talks with clubs about getting greater access to managers and players during the match, although Strong said that the dressing room at half time was still the “sacred ground for managers”. 

“We’re getting closer to the managers, closer to the players, representing their voices, even if it’s not at halftime. We’re working hard to build their trust.”

Success in the Premier League auction will mean new customers but also a greater chance to increase subscription prices, according to analysts at Enders. Strong declined to comment on whether there would be higher costs for consumers. 

The move to show more games over its streaming services reflects a broader strategy taking the broadcaster away from providing TV through a traditional Sky satellite dish — where it literally made its name — to being a digital media group.

“It’s a really important pivot for our business . . . the next frontier. And we’ve been pretty bold about leaving the satellite behind,” Strong said.

More than three-quarters of customers sign up to internet-delivered services rather than traditional satellite dish. 

Underpinning this strategy has been the launch of Sky Glass, an internet enabled TV set that comes with a subscription to its channels.

Comcast has had to write down the value of Sky in its books since acquiring the business in 2018 for £32bn as the result of higher interest rates and reduced estimated future cash flows. Some media analysts also view the price paid as excessive for a business facing competition from both US tech groups as well as domestic telecoms and broadcast rivals. 

Strong said the writedown “was based on a number of factors, including interest rates, foreign exchange, macro economic climate. None of those factors were in a very healthy place. We feel that moment is in the rear-view mirror. The US parent feels optimistic about the Sky business, and we’re in good shape.”

More importantly, she said, Sky’s investment in technology also benefits Comcast, which has used its innovations to help create a global entertainment platform. Sky also now sells its platform technology to other TV providers in regions such as Africa, creating a further revenue stream.

Enders said that under Strong’s three-year tenure, the broadcaster had been able to bring its US parent “on board with Sky’s objectives” — including signing the cheque for more than £5bn for the rights.

Away from sports, Sky also faces a crucial renegotiation with Warner Brothers Discovery over extending its deal to show HBO programming beyond 2025. Since the deal was struck, WBD has launched its own streaming platform, Max, which could lead to a rethink of its UK strategy with Sky. 

Strong said that there was “plenty of time” to arrive at a new deal but admitted that there were already talks about the future. “As you would expect In any good relationship, you’re always revisiting. How can we improve the relationship? What might the next generation look like?”

Sky will also invest more than £500mn a year in original content for its TV channels, in part using new studios in Elstree for production.

The studios opened officially in September although have already been used on the production of the new Wicked movie, which was held up by the strikes in Hollywood. More blockbusters are set to follow, including the Paddington franchise movies.

Strong said: “We believe there’ll be about 3 billion [pounds’] worth of movie productions over a five-year period. And which should bring about 2,000 jobs to the UK”.

CrunchBase : The Week’s 10 Biggest Funding Rounds: Another Big Week For Biotech

The Week’s 10 Biggest Funding Rounds: Another Big Week For Biotech As Tome Raises $213M

Just a couple of weeks until the end of the year and companies are still raising big rounds. The week was especially good for biotech, which led the way with two big raises. A space and defense startup also hit it big.

1. Tome Biosciences, $213M, biotech: A big biotech raise hit high on the list this week. Watertown, Massachusetts-based Tome Biosciences emerged from stealth with a $213 million combination Series A and B funding from investors that include the likes of Andreessen Horowitz Bio + Health and Arch Venture Partners. The startup’s “molecular surgery” technology, based on research licensed from the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, is designed to allow the insertion of varying sizes of genetic material in the genome without damaging DNA. The company plans to use the tech to develop gene therapies for monogenic liver diseases and cell therapies for autoimmune diseases.

2. Bicara Therapeutics, $165M, biotech: If Bicara Therapeutics looks familiar, it’s because this isn’t its first time on this list. Boston-based Bicara Therapeutics raised a $108 million Series B co-led by Red Tree Venture Capital and RA Capital Management in March. This week, it is back with a $165 million Series C co-led by Braidwell and TPG — which is investing through its TPG Life Sciences Innovations, and The Rise Fund. The company is developing biologics to fight tumors and is already in clinical trials for a head and neck cancer treatment. Founded in 2020, the company has raised $313 million, per Crunchbase.

3. True Anomaly, $100M, space: Centennial, Colorado-based True Anomaly, which develops hardware and software systems to help space security and readiness, raised $100 million in a round led by Riot Ventures this week. The company’s valuation was not disclosed, but Bloomberg reported it was not $1 billion. The startup helps the government and commercial customers keep an eye on threats to assets they have in space, such as satellites. The company’s Jackal autonomous orbital vehicles, which can detect objects in space, are slated to launch aboard SpaceX‘s Transporter-10 mission next year. Founded in 2022, the company has raised $158 million to date.

4. Totus Medicines, $66M, biotech: As one can tell, biotech really went big this week. Our third such startup already on the list, Emeryville, California-based Totus Medicines, closed a $66 million Series B financing led by DCVC Bio. The firm specializes in small molecule drug discovery and development using covalent libraries and AI tools. Founded in 2020, the company has raised $106 million, per Crunchbase.

5. Essential AI, $57M, artificial intelligence: Essential AI’s round this week is a good example of what many AI startups did all this year — raise big money from corporates. The San Francisco-based startup announced it had $56.5 million in new funding led by March Capital, but other investors also were a who’s who of AI big tech — Advanced Micro Devices, Google, Nvidia and others. The interest seems warranted, as the company is attempting to use AI to automate monotonous corporate tasks — which could be a big market. The company is calling its technology the “Enterprise Brain.” Founded this year, the company already has raised more than $100 million, per Crunchbase data.

6. Deep Apple Therapeutics, $52M, biotech: New York-based biotech firm Deep Apple Therapeutics raised a $52 million Series A from life sciences venture capital firm Apple Tree Partners, which created and incubated the startup. Deep Apple is developing novel small molecule therapeutics through screening of AI-generated virtual libraries. This is the company’s first round of financing, per Crunchbase.

7.(tied) Calyxo, $50M, medical device: Pleasanton, California-based medical device startup Calyxo closed a $50 million Series D led by Avidity Partners. Founded in 2016, the company has raised more than $97 million, per Crunchbase.

7.(tied) Parse Biosciences, $50M, biotech: Seattle-based Parse Biosciences, a developer of scalable single-cell sequencing solutions, raised a $50 million Series C as a mix of equity and debt. No lead investor was announced for the equity portion. Horizon Technology Finance provided the debt facility. Founded in 2018, the company has raised $100 million, per Crunchbase.

7.(tied) Twin Health, $50M, biotech: Mountain View, California-based Twin Health locked up a $50 million round led by Temasek. The company uses a body digital twin to reverse or prevent chronic metabolic diseases. Founded in 2018, the company has raised nearly $250 million, per Crunchbase.

10. StayNtouch, $48M, software: New York-based Stayntouch, a developer of cloud hotel property management software, secured a $48 million investment led by Sixth Street Growth. Founded in 2012, the company has raised more than $60 million, per Crunchbase.

Big global deals
The largest raise of the week was a really big one from across the Pacific.
  • Singapore-based Lazada Group, an online shopping site, raised a $634 million corporate round from Alibaba.

TechCrunch : Apple agrees to pay out $25M to settle lawsuit over Family Sharing

Apple agrees to pay out $25M to settle lawsuit over Family Sharing

Apple has agreed to pay out $25 million to settle a class action lawsuit over its Family Sharing feature, which lets users and up to five of their family members share access to apps, music, movies, TV shows and books that they purchase. The lawsuit, which was first filed in 2019, alleged that “Apple misrepresented the ability to use its Family Sharing feature to share subscriptions to apps.”

The news was first reported by MacRumors.

The lawsuit says that Apple denies that it made any misleading misrepresentations and “denies all allegations of wrongdoing.” The settlement agreement notes that “Apple has concluded that continuing to defend this Action would be burdensome and expensive. Apple enters into this Agreement without in any way acknowledging any fault, liability, or wrongdoing of any kind.”

The tech giant did not respond to TechCrunch’s request for comment.

Court documents from the lawsuit allege that Apple advertised Family Sharing as an option on apps that did not support Family Sharing.

“The vast majority of subscription-based Apps, which is a growing percentage of Apple Apps, cannot be shared with designated family members,” the court document reads. “They are available only to the individual user who downloads the App and sets up a subscription. All or virtually all of these Apps, however, included the statement that they support Family Sharing on their landing pages through January 30, 2019.”

The lawsuit alleges that Apple was aware that the subscription-based apps did not support Family Sharing, but still placed an ad for Family Sharing on them. The court document goes on to note that “millions of consumers have downloaded subscription-based Apps believing that they are available for Family Sharing, only to learn after payment has been made that they are not so available.”

U.S. residents who were enrolled in a Family Sharing group with at least one other person between June 21, 2015 and January 30, 2019 and purchased a subscription to an app from the App Store during that time may be eligible for a payment. Eligible class members will be receiving an email this week.

Each class member that files a claim is eligible to receive $30, but this may vary depending on how many people file claims. However, the payment will not exceed $50 for each class member, and $10 million from the settlement will go toward attorney fees.

Eligible class members have until March 1, 2024 to file a claim. A final approval hearing is scheduled for April 2, 2024.

Business Of Fashion : The Year Ahead: How Gen AI Is Reshaping Fashion’s Creativi

The Year Ahead: How Gen AI Is Reshaping Fashion’s Creativity
After generative AI’s breakout year in 2023, The State of Fashion 2024 examines emerging use cases across creative industries.

KEY INSIGHTS
  • According to McKinsey analysis, as much as one-fourth of generative AI’s potential value in fashion may be driven by use cases in design and product development.
  • 73 percent of fashion executives said generative AI will be a priority for their businesses in 2024, but just 28 percent have tried using it in creative processes for design and product development.
  • Equity funding for generative AI-focused start-ups skyrocketed in 2023, reaching $14.1 billion in the first half of the year alone.

Disruptive technologies in the workplace generally fall into three categories — those that enhance existing skills while creating new ones; those that replace skills while reducing the need for others; and those that fall somewhere in between. So where does one of 2023′s buzziest technologies — generative artificial intelligence — fit? For creative teams in the fashion industry, the year ahead could help them find the answer.

Gen AI — algorithms pre-trained on large volumes of data such as text, images and code, often fine-tuned with other corporate data, that can create new, complex content — had a breakout year in 2023 as powerful new tools hit the market. By January, two months after its launch, ChatGPT reached an estimated 100 million users, a record pace of growth at the time. Multiple platforms and tools have since entered the market, and a dizzying array of start-ups are seeking to leverage these, while strong open-source alternatives are challenging proprietary models.

While the technology’s use is nascent in many industries, it’s accelerating. If its trajectory continues, it could be one of the most transformative technologies for the fashion industry in a long while. Early experiments have offered a promising start, but the transformative power of gen AI will become more evident as use cases move beyond one-off projects and become embedded within fashion’s value chain.

The overall financial impact of gen AI on the industry is potentially significant. According to recent McKinsey analysis, as much as one-fourth of the value is expected to be driven by use cases at the design and product development stage of the value chain.


It’s no surprise then that gen AI is on industry executives’ radars. The BoF-McKinsey State of Fashion 2024 Survey of global fashion executives found 73 percent of respondents said gen AI will be an important priority for their businesses in 2024. Yet while many are experimenting with the technology, just 28 percent said their businesses had tried it for design and product, indicating fashion companies are not yet capturing its value in the creative process.

Caution is understandable. The technology could impact jobs and workflows. The fashion industry has also seen a fair share of technological enthusiasm that has swiftly sputtered — notably, the metaverse. Based on rate of progress and investment, however, gen AI is likely to offer a different story. The technology has more practical applications than the metaverse, making it more attractive to businesses and investors. Equity funding for gen AI-focused start-ups skyrocketed in 2023, reaching $14.1 billion in the first half of the year alone, compared with $3.5 billion in 2021 and $2.5 billion in 2022. A significant share of the surge was due to Microsoft’s January announcement of its $10 billion, multiyear deal with OpenAI, the research laboratory behind ChatGPT. In the second half of the year, Amazon announced a $4 billion investment in the artificial intelligence start-up Anthropic, pushing 2023′s investments in gen AI even higher.

A Range of Applications
Part of gen AI’s potential lies in the array of tasks to which it can be applied, and fashion businesses are already beginning to adopt it in several concrete ways. However, the focus so far has been on one-off use cases with clear advantages when it comes to cost, efficiency or customer experience, rather than those with potential for wider industry disruption.

Online shopping assistance is one area where it is making its mark. Online retailer Zalando announced the launch of a beta ChatGPT-based natural language-powered shopping assistant in spring 2023 that allows a visitor to its site to ask questions and get answers as well as customised product recommendations. Kering, Mercari and Shopify have similarly introduced AI chatbots.

Brands using the technology to write product descriptions for their sites include Snipes, a sneaker and streetwear retailer, and Adore Me, the lingerie company recently acquired by Victoria’s Secret. Shopify, meanwhile, has introduced a gen-AI writing assistant for merchants.

Other brands have begun exploring gen AI tools in one-off creative and marketing projects. Ganni used the technology at its Spring/Summer 2024 runway show for an installation that let guests ask questions and receive answers reflecting Ganni’s point of view. Luxury label Casablanca created a campaign for its Spring/Summer 2023 collection by partnering with an AI artist and using image generator Midjourney. Casablanca creative director Charaf Tajer said human talent and creativity were required to produce the richly hued, stylised campaign set against a desert landscape in Mexico. But he also acknowledged efficiency gains as a result of bypassing all the planning and costs of in-person photo shoots, among other benefits.
By Design
Specific gen AI deployments like Zalando’s and Casablanca’s have piqued the interest of both the wider industry and consumers. But the technology has not yet been systematically scaled beyond pilot projects. Ultimately, the greatest value may lie in using gen AI in an end-to-end way that enables and enhances creativity.

Use cases may differ across segments of the industry. In fast fashion, gen AI can accelerate the design process, injecting more agility from trend detection to product development and by leveraging analytics data to rapidly produce large numbers of new designs. Meanwhile in luxury, gen AI could become an additional medium in the designer’s repertoire, allowing them to experiment with rapid iterations, compile mood boards that draw from diverse sources and curate the output. It can equip less technically skilled designers with the ability to visualise their concepts. The unexpected results produced by AI tools can even provide inspiration.

Fashion brands Collina Strada and Heliot Emil have leaned into this space to craft their Spring/Summer 2024 collections. Both fed images of previous looks into a gen-AI tool to produce new designs that could be refined with text prompts. Online retailer Revolve also used the technology for a series of eye-catching, colourful billboards and dropped a limited capsule collection with garments from the campaign, with further experiments under way. Meanwhile, Spanish brand Desigual launched an on-demand collection that was designed using AI tools.

Companies developing gen AI software for fashion say the technology can reduce manual tasks that take days to mere hours or even seconds. AiDA (short for AI-based Interactive Design Assistant) reportedly can produce a dozen fashion templates within 10 seconds. The system uploads sketches, materials and colour palettes to a virtual mood board with the help of a tagging tool for accelerated product searches. AiDA then creates templates that designers can finesse and augment. Cala, a fashion supply chain interface that includes gen AI in its design tools, can help designers produce more than 100 sketches in a single day, according to co-founder Andrew Wyatt.

Curation is Key
In fashion, human skill and creativity often hold the key to brand differentiation. Rather than diminishing them, gen AI used properly can free designers from manual tasks to focus on creative work. Human designers will remain key, while gen AI will enable their roles to be orientated around curation. This potential must be communicated clearly to creatives to ensure the technology is adopted without undermining the role of the designer.

As the number of gen AI adopters in fashion expands and the technology evolves, it will require more than a superficial understanding of its role in enhancing and unlocking creativity. It holds exciting potential for companies to create unique gen AI models that enable them to infuse their brand DNA across design processes, rather than relying on the generic output of image generators. For creatives, success will hinge on the support and infrastructure of their ecosystems that enable them to move from manual creators to true creative curators. When implemented effectively, the technology can benefit and amplify the creative process, thus augmenting human capability, while retaining the artistic skills and knowledge of designers. Ultimately, say experts, human-centred innovation will likely be the most important use of AI.

WWD : Who Else Could Bid for Macy’s?

Who Else Could Bid for Macy’s?
Macy's is in play since receiving a low-ball takeover bid this month and sources say Sycamore Partners could emerge as a bidder.

There is unlikely to be many retailers or funds interested in bidding for Macy’s Inc., but one possible bidder could be Sycamore Partners.

Two sources told WWD that Sycamore, a New York-based private equity fund specializing in consumer, distribution and retail-related investments with about $10 billion in aggregate committed capital, is eyeing Macy’s for a possible bid. The sources believe Sycamore has the wherewithal and has raised debt, despite the tough borrowing climate, in preparation for what could be an all-cash offer to buy the retailer. Next year, interest rates are likely to be more favorable to M&A activity.

“He is the most capable to pull off that deal,” said one source, referring to Stefan Kaluzny, managing director of Sycamore Partners.

Spokesmen for Macy’s and Sycamore both declined comment Friday on the speculation.

If Macy’s Inc. became a private company as part of the Sycamore portfolio, the private equity firm could save millions of dollars by eliminating the Macy’s board and the dividends. There could be further savings through consolidations and synergies with other retailers within Sycamore’s portfolio, including Belk, the Charlotte, N.C.-based department store chain throughout the South.

Of greater appeal is Macy’s extensive real estate holdings. Sources indicated to WWD that executives at Sycamore have become more attuned to the value behind retail real estate. However, unlike other private equity firms, Sycamore gets involved in operating retailers and has a track record of holding onto retail brands for several years, rather than adhering to a short timetable for buying and selling.

Speculation around a Sycamore-Macy’s tie-up comes in the wake of the $21-a-share bid for Macy’s by Arkhouse and Brigade Capital Management. That bid, valued at $5.8 billion, is low, offering a small premium, particularly with the stock spiking after news of the bid emerged. Macy’s stock closed Friday at $19.71, up 9 cents, or 0.46 percent. Macy’s generated about $24 billion in sales last year.

Other firms with track records for investing in retail are Leonard Green & Associates, Bain Capital and Texas Pacific Group.

A new Macy’s Inc. owner could decide to sell off pieces of the business, such as Bloomingdale’s or Bluemercury, as well as retail boxes, parking areas and warehouses owned by Macy’s to more than recoup what might be paid for the whole company. In a five-year period, Macy’s raised $2 billion through real estate sell-offs, including shedding several prime downtown properties. Research firms have placed Macy’s real estate value from roughly $6 billion to $11 billion.

Sycamore has been building up its retail portfolio and has been more aggressive this year. In September, Sycamore struck a deal to buy Chico’s FAS Inc. for $1 billion. Last August, the firm formed a new holding company called the KnitWell Group, comprising its Ann Taylor, Loft and Talbots retail brands, which combined generate more than $3 billion in annual sales. And in February, Sycamore completed its acquisition of Lowe’s Canadian retail business, which changed its name to Rona Inc. It operates or services about 450 corporate and independent affiliate dealer stores under several banners, including Rona, Lowe’s, Réno-Dépôt and Dick’s Lumber. Sycamore has investments in other retailers including Staples, Torrid and Hot Topic.

Many Belk stores are in secondary markets where Macy’s does not have a location, and some could be converted to Macy’s new specialty format, which was originally called Market by Macy’s but is changing its name to just Macy’s. There are 12 small-format Macy’s operating and another 30 are expected to open in the next two years. Belk stores are of varying sizes, some of which would fit into the small-scale Macy’s concept.

However, retail sources believed that Belk would not be a big factor in Sycamore’s consideration of a potential bid for Macy’s.

FT : Food producers turn to greener fertilisers to reduce carbon footprints

Food producers turn to greener fertilisers to reduce carbon footprints
New rules next year will force companies to publish supply chains’ emissions data

From baguettes to beer, the world’s leading food and drinks makers are rushing to reduce their carbon footprint by tackling one of the hidden culprits of emissions in their value chains: fertilisers.

Ahead of disclosure rules for greenhouse emissions throughout their supply chains enacted next year, companies including PepsiCo, Heineken and Nestlé have turned to green fertiliser start-ups to help tackle emission levels.

Crop nutrients underpin production of half the world’s food but contribute significant CO₂ emissions at the same time. Fertilisers used for agricultural ingredients account for about 15 per cent of total emissions from beer supply chains and 35-40 per cent for bread, according to industry experts.

Nitrogen-based fertiliser and farm manure make up 5 per cent of global greenhouse gas emissions, producing 2.6bn tonnes of CO₂ a year, more than global aviation and shipping combined, according to research published by the journal Nature Food.

“Nitrogen fertiliser is the highest emissions source for most foods,” especially for bread and cereal, said Petter Ostbo, chief executive of Atlas Agro, a Switzerland-based green fertiliser start-up.

Emissions from crop nutrients should be easy to reduce, he said, adding: “The technology exists and is competitive . . . All that is needed is for the food producers to become aware and to support.”

Food manufacturers say they recognise the need for change. “We’re the world’s biggest food and beverage company and so if we’re not taking a leading position on this then what hope do the rest have?” said Matt Ryan, who is behind Nestlé UK’s regenerative agriculture efforts.

From January, companies incorporated in the EU will be obliged to report the carbon footprint of their entire supply chains, known as “scope 3” emissions. The US is working on similar disclosure rules, although these have been delayed.

While manufacturing fertilisers produces carbon dioxide — accounting for close to 1.5 per cent of global CO₂ emissions — once applied to land, microbes in the soil break down the crop nutrients, producing nitrous oxide, which has a warming effect that is 265 times greater than CO₂.

Faced with regulatory changes, the industry and its partners have stepped up efforts to produce lower carbon ammonia — a critical ingredient in nitrogen-based fertiliser — and practices that improve so-called nitrogen use efficiency.

Pawel Kisielewski, chief executive of CCm Technologies, is among the start-up company founders benefiting from rising interest in green fertilisers.

The company mixes CO₂ captured from industrial activities with organic materials, including sludge from sewage plants and byproducts from food factories, to make crop nutrients.

It recently partnered with Nestlé and Cargill, using cocoa shells from a confectionery site in York, England, where the agricultural trader processes cocoa for Nestlé products such as KitKats. The lower-carbon fertiliser produced is then used on 120 arable farms in Nestle’s supply chain in Suffolk and Northamptonshire. 

For crops such as wheat, fertilisers account for half of the total emissions produced, said Ryan. There is “a double opportunity here” to reduce waste and cut scope 3 emissions, he said.

CCm’s fertiliser manufacturing process, which has been certified by the Carbon Trust, will help reduce emissions by at least 70 per cent, said Kisielewski. He added that the company plans to triple production in the next few years and expand into Europe.

In alcoholic beverages, the pursuit of a low-carbon beer has led Heineken to be part of an investor consortium backing fertiliser group FertigHy. The start-up plans to start construction on its first plant in Spain in 2025 and aims to have two plants, each producing 1mn tonnes of low-carbon fertiliser a year from 2029.

FertigHy, which also has investments from French agribusiness InVivo, will make ammonia using hydrogen from water electrolysis based on renewable electricity.

Heineken’s strategic sourcing director for raw materials Alberto Maynez, said that to reach its goal of net zero by 2040, the brewer needed a supply of low-carbon fertiliser. The company invested in FertigHy because although “the industry was taking ‘steps’” to reduce emissions, they were “not accelerated”, he said.

Tesco, the UK’s largest food retailer, is also working with low-carbon fertiliser manufacturers, including several start-ups such as CCm. The retailer recently said that after initial field trials produced vegetables including lettuces, carrots and potatoes with a 50 per cent reduction in emissions levels, from 2024 it would increase the trial area tenfold to 13,000 hectares.

TH Clements, one of the vegetable producers involved, found that at the end of the first year, product quality was “almost like for like” and yields were lower but not far off normal output. The group’s agriculture director Peter Taylor said there was a “potential explosion” of demand for low-carbon fertilisers as agriculture experiences “an absolutely enormous” step-change.

Although investments into low-carbon fertiliser start-ups received a boost from the surge in traditional crop nutrient prices in the wake of Covid-19 and the war in Ukraine, alternative products remain expensive partly due to the small quantities produced.

Despite holding a lot of promise, as with many agricultural innovations, production levels remain limited leading to high prices. Alzbeta Klein, head of the International Fertilizer Association, said that “none of these new technologies have been scaled up yet”. “The door is open to each and every solution,” she added.

A shift to low-carbon crop nutrients required state support, believe some executives. InVivo’s Edouard Piens said regulations on scope 3 emissions were necessary but not sufficient and government subsidies were needed to close the price gap between traditional fertilisers and low-carbon alternatives — currently about $200 per tonne.

The low-carbon market was so small today that it barely existed, said José Antonio de las Heras, FertigHy chief executive. “Very expensive and very limited”, it is “more a demo market” than a real one, he said, adding that change across the industry as a whole was happening “very slowly”.

Prices would fall as volumes increase, but for this to happen, food groups needed to work together, acknowledged Nestle’s Ryan.

“We’re never the [only buyer] for a farmer,” he said, adding that Nestlé would be interested in creating a low-carbon fertiliser production hub in the UK with PepsiCo — “if we can find a location that works”. 

WSJ : Chinese Tourists Are Back. They Just Aren’t Shopping Like Before.

Chinese Tourists Are Back. They Just Aren’t Shopping Like Before.
Rise of ‘China’s Instagram’ and swing in preferences are driving selfie travel and hurting retailers

HONG KONG—The retail world used to cater to Chinese tourists. Luxury shops opened wherever they went, and Parisian department stores hired Mandarin speakers. Mom-and-pop stores in Hong Kong were replaced by vendors offering products Chinese tourists demanded, such as milk powder and medicines.

Now, after being grounded for three years during the pandemic, Chinese travelers are taking to the skies again. But they don’t look or spend the same.

The new wave of traveling shoppers is dominated by people under 40, and they are forging less of a well-traveled path, eschewing the big bus tours that drop off tourists at malls and shopping districts. Many use an app called Xiaohongshu, nicknamed “China’s Instagram” and translated as “Little Red Book.” It helps them find new spots to visit and take selfies.

That is affecting companies that have made big bets on “travel retail,” or operating stores in tourists’ favorite destinations. The cosmetics company Estée Lauder saw its shares drop sharply on Nov. 1 after a profit warning that was primarily driven by expected pressures on its Asia travel retail business and a slower-than-expected recovery in mainland China. The company has invested in stores at various checkpoints of travelers’ journeys: at airport gates, border shops, shopping malls in popular tourist destinations and duty-free zones.

Last month Shiseido, a Japanese rival, cut its full-year profit forecast by 36%, citing weakness in its China and travel-retail segments. Luxury companies such as France’s LVMH have been downgraded by analysts, including Barclays, because of softer demand from Chinese consumers.

In late November, the luxury department store Harvey Nichols—which sells brands such as Oscar de la Renta, 3.1 Phillip Lim and REDValentino, along with beauty lines such as Chanel and some of Estée Lauder’s products—said it would be closing one of its two stores in downtown Hong Kong.

“Chinese tourists coming to Hong Kong are no longer focused on shopping as they used to be before the pandemic,” Dickson Concepts, the operating company for Harvey Nichols, said in a regulatory filing. This “has now been proven…despite the reopening of the borders in February,” it said.

The company also pointed to the significant growth of e-commerce during the pandemic, the rapid development of the luxury brands’ presence in China and the narrowing of price differences between China and Hong Kong—a trend mirrored in other favorite Chinese-tourist destinations.

Estée Lauder said it expects travel retail to continue reaching new consumers globally in the long term. Shiseido and LVMH didn’t respond to requests for comment. Dickson Concepts declined to comment.

Yu Jin Huan, a 24-year-old export executive from Guangdong province, was on a day trip to Hong Kong on a recent Saturday. Armed with advice from Xiaohongshu, the social-media app, she and a friend were posing for photos along the waterfront in the city’s Kennedy Town neighborhood. The spot has become so popular with tourists—some step into traffic to get the perfect shot of the sunset—that the government put up signs along the road: “Do not stay and take photos on carriageway. Offenders are liable to prosecution.”

Like many tourists from the mainland these days, Yu is less interested in shopping and more interested in “punching in,” or “daka” in Mandarin—a term many use to represent the bingolike drive to visit as many trendy spots as possible. For many tourists, sometimes armed with professional cameras, getting that image of themselves in a coveted destination has become the ultimate souvenir.

“I can buy anything I want online in China,” said Yu, who used to come to Hong Kong on day trips just to buy cosmetics. “Now I’m seeking different things on my trips—I want to get an authentic experience.” After taking their waterfront photos, Yu and her friend were planning to go on one of many city walks recommended by the app.

Social-media apps such as Xiaohongshu have played an important role in shaping the behavior of young, relatively wealthy and educated tourists, said Jian Lin, a media scholar who studies digital platforms and cultures at the Chinese University of Hong Kong. Lin himself has visited the app to find interesting places and cafes, using it on a recent trip to Dali, a cultural city popular with tourists in China’s southwestern Yunnan province.

On Xiaohongshu, which also features beauty, pets and relationship advice, influential users pose for photos in famous places. Shopping, though, is no longer as popular a traveling activity, data show.

Young Chinese travelers have emerged as the main force in outbound tourism, taking the lead in shaping the preferences and consumption patterns of the market, said Subramania Bhatt, who heads up China Trading Desk, which tracks travel data through its own quarterly survey.

Around 63% of the travelers are under 40 years old, according to the company’s data, while its most recent survey suggests that there is a growing inclination toward creating personal travel narratives—and that shopping is taking a back seat.

Part of that is related to a weakened Chinese economy that is digging into discretionary budgets, while many Chinese are increasingly shopping at home, Bhatt added.

Some signs point to the appetite for travel coming back. During the recent Double 11 shopping festival, more than 400,000 ticket packages—including all-you-can-fly passes and nearly 2.5 million accommodation packages—were sold, according to Fliggy, a travel platform owned by Alibaba Group. Fliggy particularly highlighted the preferences toward more-flexible travel options.

While domestic sales in China for the luggage maker Samsonite have accelerated in recent months, purchases by Chinese tourists abroad—for example, those buying luggage in Europe to bring home their shopping hauls—are still catching up.

Based on data Samsonite tracks, including credit-card information on country of origin of purchases at its stores, the company estimates that Chinese outbound travel is still about 50% of prepandemic levels.

Samsonite expects sales from these customers to continue rising, in recent months launching its biggest ad campaign in cities across China.

“We think Chinese tourists will really be back by the end of 2024,” said Kyle Gendreau, the company’s chief executive. “We are ready for the comeback.”

WSJ : Court Sides With FTC Finding Illumina-Grail Deal Anticompetitive

Court Sides With FTC Finding Illumina-Grail Deal Anticompetitive
Judges also fault agency for not properly considering Illumina’s plan to fix drawbacks

A federal appeals court said the U.S. government was right to challenge Illumina’s ILMN -3.34%decrease; red down pointing triangle purchase of cancer-test developer Grail, but still sent the case back to the Federal Trade Commission for reconsideration.

A three-judge panel found the deal to be anticompetitive, but said the FTC erred in how it considered Illumina’s proposed fix for its drawbacks. The judges ordered the FTC to reconsider its opinion on the troubled deal, which the European Commission has already ordered Illumina to unwind.

Illumina, which makes gene-sequencing products, bid for Grail three years ago as part of a “foundational change in Illumina’s business model.” Owning Grail, which sells a blood test designed for the early detection of cancer, would put Illumina at the vanguard of clinical testing and give it fatter profit margins than it enjoys now, the U.S. Court of Appeals for the Fifth Circuit wrote.

Illumina would advance that goal by cutting off Grail’s rivals from important inputs they need for their own cancer-detection tests, the FTC alleged. Illumina is the only seller of those inputs, which are gene-sequencing machines and the chemicals those machines use. By selling the cancer tests and hoarding the underlying supplies for them, Illumina could illegally achieve a new monopoly in a blockbuster market, the FTC claimed.

The Fifth Circuit judges largely upheld that view, writing that Illumina would have the ability and incentive to “foreclose against Grail’s competitors—even at the expense of some short-term profits—to pursue its long-term goal of establishing itself (via Grail) as the market leader in clinical testing.”

The FTC said the decision marks “an important victory” for its agenda because a key court sided with its view in a vertical merger case. The government challenges vertical mergers less often because they don’t involve direct competitors. When antitrust authorities challenge vertical mergers, they usually argue the combined company would gain a monopoly by withholding supplies or inputs from the rest of the market.

“This decision marks a pivotal moment for those who want to protect open, competitive markets, and a huge win for consumers in the modern economy,” FTC spokesman Douglas Farrar said.

The appeals court also dismissed constitutional arguments that Illumina made, including the claim that the FTC should not be able to prosecute merger challenges via its in-house court.

An Illumina spokesman declined to comment. The company has filed paperwork with securities regulators that would enable it to unwind the purchase of Grail, Illumina disclosed earlier this week.

Illumina still says European authorities were wrong to block the deal. The company says Europe lacks jurisdiction over the deal because Grail doesn’t have any sales in the bloc. Illumina is still pursuing an appeal of Europe’s order to divest Grail.

The decision to purchase Grail has come with a heavy cost. The European Commission fined Illumina 432 million euros, equivalent to about $471 million, for proceeding with the acquisition before that bloc’s competition watchdog had decided whether to approve the deal.

The company’s former chief executive, Francis deSouza, resigned earlier this year following a bruising proxy battle with billionaire activist investor Carl Icahn, who argued Illumina’s ongoing quest to defend the deal is folly.

Nonetheless, Illumina could get another shot before the FTC if the company wants to spend months, if not years, continuing to litigate. Litigation adds to deal costs, and companies often abandon deals when they suffer adverse legal decisions.

The appeals court found FTC commissioners didn’t properly consider Illumina’s proposal to deal with the threat to competition. The company had offered to make its gene-sequencing products available to Grail’s future competitors at the same price and terms as provided to Grail.