WSJ : Private Equity's Struggle to Spend It

Private Equity's Struggle to Spend It

Buyout Firms' Biggest Challenge Next Year Could Be Finding Deals in a Crowded Market

Nothing says froth like an initial public offering for a ski-jacket maker that is 31 times oversubscribed by investors. Yet the pristine conditions that greeted Italy's Moncler MOV.MI +7.12% when it slid onto the public markets in December had already supported a record $41.3 billion in other private equity-backed IPOs in Europe this year, according to Dealogic.

That marks an important step toward the private-equity industry's recovery. Getting out of investments means realizing returns and returning money to investors; that helps raising new funds. But another challenge lingers: how to navigate Europe's crowded deal-making slopes without breaking a leg.

Deploying capital has grown more challenging. There have been fewer midsize carve-outs from bigger companies, a classic source of sponsors' deals. Instead, some of the biggest deals of the year, like German publisher Springer Science+Business Media, were secondary buyouts. Overall, private-equity companies spent $69.50 billion on acquisitions in 2013, flat on last year and 37% of what the industry spent at the peak of the buyout boom in 2007, according to data provider Preqin.

With a smaller pool of quality assets, competition pushes valuations higher. Cash-rich corporates continue to go head-to-head with traditional buyout funds that are still sitting on $90.5 billion in unspent capital, estimates Preqin. As a result, European buyout multiples were an average 8.25 times historic earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization, down only a turn since the 2007 peak, notes S&P Capital IQ LCD.

So leverage is also rising. Take Nordic payment processing business Nets Group: Its bank owners are offering a debt package of 6.5 times leverage to sell it, in a complicated carve-out, according to two people familiar with the deal. But the industry can't count on debt markets staying this benign. Yields on B-rated European corporate bonds—a proxy for buyout debt—have halved in the past two years to just 5.5%, according to the Bank of America Merrill Lynch high-yield bond index.

That puts a premium on firms that can hunt off-piste for investments where competition and valuations are lower. Deals like Altor Equity Partners and Bain Capital's $1.1 billion buyout of Norwegian fish-feed company EWOS in July look smart. Seller Cermaq was fending off a hostile bid and needed a quick deal; the firms paid 7.5 times historic Ebitda, a discount to listed rivals.

Private equity needs to pick its route into new deals carefully.

(BFW) Linde CEO Slams German Government’s Plans, Boersen-Zeitung Says

+------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Linde CEO Slams German Government’s Plans, Boersen-Zeitung Says 2013-12-31 10:56:26.848 GMT

By Nicholas Comfort Dec. 31 (Bloomberg) -- Germany’s new government lacks sound plans for energy, demographic and European debt crisis policy, Boersen-Zeitung cites Wolfgang Reitzle, CEO of industrial gas maker Linde, as saying in interview. Reitzle also says: * Power prices will continue to rise and Germany must retain exemptions for some companies from renewable energy subsidy payments to remain competitive * Liquidity provided by central banks to fight debt crisis may cause improper allocation of capital and ultimately result in inflation * NOTE Oct. 29: Linde Joins Raft of Euro Losers as It Trims Profit Forecast

For Related News and Information: First Word scrolling panel: FIRST<GO> First Word newswire: NH BFW<GO>

To contact the reporter on this story: Nicholas Comfort in Frankfurt at +49-69-92041-213 or ncomfort1@bloomberg.net

To contact the editor responsible for this story: Frank Connelly at +33-1-5365-5063 or fconnelly@bloomberg.net

(BFW) Debenhams 17-Wk Group Comp Sales Growth of 0.1%, Margin Drops

+------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

BN 12/31 10:25 *DEBENHAMS TO FOCUS ON INVESTMENTS, PAYING DIV, CUTTING NET DEBT BN 12/31 10:25 *DEBENHAMS SEES 1H PRETAX PFT TO BE IN REGION OF 85M PNDS BN 12/31 10:24 *DEBENHAMS MEASURES TO IMPROVE ONLINE EFFICIENCY SUCCESSFUL BN 12/31 10:24 *DEBENHAMS COSTS UP IN LINE W/ GUIDANCE PROVIDED IN OCT BN 12/31 10:24 *DEBENHAMS SEES 1H GROSS MGN DECLINE OF B/W 80, 100 BP. BN 12/31 10:23 *DEBENHAMS TO CEASE BUYBACK BN 12/31 10:23 *DEBENHAMS: `DIFFICULT' ENVIRONMENT HIT SALES, PROFITABILITY BN 12/31 10:22 *DEBENHAMS: EXPECT CONDITIONS TO REMAIN HIGHLY COMPETITIVE BN 12/31 10:22 *DEBENHAMS: 17-WK GROUP COMP SALES GROWTH OF 0.1% BN 12/31 10:22 *DEBENHAMS: 17-WK GROUP GROSS TRANSACTION VALUE GROWTH OF 0.7% BN 12/31 10:22 *DEBENHAMS: GROSS MARGIN DECLINED IN 17 WEEKS BN 12/31 10:21 *DEBENHAMS: RETAIL SECTOR AS WHOLE HIGHLY COMPETITIVE

+------------------------------------------------------------------------------+

Debenhams 17-Wk Group Comp Sales Growth of 0.1%, Margin Drops 2013-12-31 10:25:34.832 GMT

By Heather Burke Dec. 31 (Bloomberg) --Gross margin declined in the 17 wks to Dec. 28 due to product category mix, higher markdown. * Sees 1H gross margin decline of 80bps-100bps * Ceasing shr buyback

Link to Statement:{NSN MYO23S3HBS3K <GO>} Link to Company News:{DEB LN <Equity> CN <GO>}

For Related News and Information: First Word scrolling panel: {FIRST<GO>} First Word newswire: {NH BFW<GO>}

To contact the editor responsible for this story: Heather Burke at +44-20-7673-2044 or hburke2@bloomberg.net

WWD : Fiber Forecast Mostly Steady for 2014

Fiber Forecast Mostly Steady for 2014

Stability in raw material prices and economic conditions around the world resulted in a rarity in the global fiber business in 2013 — a lack of volatility, leading to an outlook for more of the same in the year ahead.

Following some up and down years — memories of record-high cotton prices in excess of $2 a pound in 2011 that dragged other fibers with it are still relatively fresh, not to mention the Great Recession that preceded it — the fiber industry sees a somewhat stable environment ahead, with room for growth. But slow and somewhat tenuous economic growth in places such as the U.S. and Europe and China’s molasseslike move away from a controlled economy still weigh on key sectors, while climatic conditions are always a concern for natural fibers.

Cotton prices have risen in the last year to 81.01 cents a pound from 68.4 cents a year ago, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture’s daily report of U.S. spot prices. The New York March futures contract edged higher the last few weeks, rising to 84.12 cents a pound from about 77 cents a pound in late November.

Cotton Incorporated’s monthly report on market conditions noted that the largest revision to supply and demand figures was an increase in Indian ending stocks. India’s ending stock for 2012-13 increased 1 million bales, to 11 million bales. Revisions for global production and consumption and the increase to the Indian ending stock were the primary drivers behind the 692,000-bales increase to 96.4 million in the estimate for 2013-14 global ending stocks. Global production fell 382,000 bales, to 116.8 million bales, while consumption rose 50,000 bales, to 109.7 million bales.

Cotton Inc. noted that over the past two crop years, the global cotton market has been dominated by two competing forces: On one side, there were the record world-ending stocks that threatened to push prices lower, while on the other side there have been tighter-than-average stocks outside of China, which have supported global prices.

“At the center is uncertainty surrounding Chinese cotton policy and Chinese demand for cotton imports,” Cotton Inc. said. “More aggressive releases from government reserves, which would imply lower Chinese import demand, would pull world prices lower. Conversely, higher Chinese import demand implies lower stocks outside of China and continued support of world cotton prices.”

Stocks for higher-grade cotton from the U.S., and other exporting countries such as Australia, have already been reported as tight, according to Cotton Inc., while Chinese import demand for higher-grade cotton is also expected to provide support for prices for the next few months.

Gildan Activewear Inc., a major North American cotton apparel manufacturer, commenting last month in its fourth-quarter earnings report, said, “The average cost of cotton in fiscal 2014 is currently expected to be comparable to the average cost for fiscal 2013.”

Global competitiveness pressures have had an impact on certain sectors.

The Lenzing Group, considered the world’s leading producer of cellulosic fibers, saw consolidated earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and amortization decline about 20 percent to $306.4 million in the first nine months of 2013, as sales fell about 7 percent to $1.98 billion. On the basis of the anticipated weaker fourth quarter, Lenzing revised its guidance downward slightly for the year 2013, with EBITDA of $300 million to $315 million forecast and sales of $2.6 billion expected.

Lenzing said no imminent change in the difficult business environment can be expected in the global fiber market. It said the continuing high level of cotton inventories has unfavorable effects on the entire fiber industry, noting that the International Cotton Advisory Committee expects inventories to rise an additional 2 million tons to 20.8 million tons by the end of July.

“The difficult market situation will continue in 2014 and possibly well into 2015. We will resolutely counteract this unfavorable situation and adjust our cost structures to the new circumstances as quickly as possible,” said Peter Untersperger, chief executive officer of Lenzing AG, last month in the company’s fiscal update.

Untersperger noted that Lenzing has implemented a comprehensive cost-optimization program that is aimed at saving $164 million annually through 2015. The sales and marketing organization will be strengthened as part of the current reorganization project, with a sharper focus on the important fiber markets of Asia and Turkey. Sales efforts in China especially will be expanded on the basis of additional technical experts and market development capabilities, Lenzing said.

The measures to be implemented are expected to result in savings in material costs and reductions in operating expenses and overhead. Lenzing said staff at the group’s largest production site in Lenzing, Upper Austria, will likely be downsized by up to 15 percent from the current level of about 2,600 employees. Overall, up to 600 jobs will be cut or vacant positions not filled.

In spite of the difficult market environment, Lenzing said business in the first three quarters of 2013 developed in line with expectations. The downward pressure on selling prices was partially offset by higher fiber shipment volumes, cost savings and a marketing drive for specialty fibers Lenzing Modal and Tencel.

Fiber shipment volumes in the first nine months increased to 660,000 tons due to capacity expansion, up 12 percent from the prior-year level. However, average fiber selling prices of the Lenzing Group were at 1.73 euro per kilogram, about 14 percent lower than in the previous year.

Polyester price stability has also helped keep that market strong. Market reports put average global polyester staple fiber prices at about $1.05 a pound, compared with $1.10 a year ago, while polyester filament is selling at about $1.15 a pound now, from $1.18 in December 2012.

Bill Jasper, chairman and ceo of Unifi Inc., a manufacturer of multifilament polyester and nylon textured yarns based in Greensboro, N.C., in discussing the company’s 2013 fiscal year ended June 30, said the outlook is strong for the year ahead based partially on raw material price stability.

Jasper said, “We do expect our future financial performance to benefit from our continued investment in our premier value-added capabilities; continued growth of regional, synthetic apparel production; longer-term moderation of raw materials prices, and the continued recovery of our operations in Brazil and China.”

Roger Berrier, president and chief operating officer of Unifi, said, “Fiscal 2013 was another successful year for our premier value-added yarns, particularly Repreve, our flagship product. As we near 100 percent capacity utilization of our Repreve Recycling Center in Yadkinville, N.C., the company has recently announced plans to expand both our capacity and flexibility to produce Repreve and our other premier value-added yarns.”

In a conference call with analysts, Berrier traced the year’s raw material price fluctuations.

“Prices in North America increased more sharply than expected in January and February, resulting in significant margin deterioration, as we temporarily shared in the negative impact of higher prices with our customers,” he said. “As the March quarter ended, we instituted across-the-board price increases based on the higher raw material prices in order to recover the margins lost in the March quarter. As we moved out of the March quarter, raw material prices moderated as capacity for our primary ingredients came online and became more stable.”

Berrier said the gap in polymer pricing between the U.S. and Asia was reduced to about 13 cents a pound in the year ended June 30, compared with about 14 cents a pound in the firm’s third quarter.

“Although we don’t expect much change in either raw material prices or the polymer pricing gap in our September 2013 quarter, we are anticipating more stability in raw material pricing in fiscal 2014 based on the current visibility we have on global raw material supply-demand balance,” he added.

Jasper said, “Another trend that bodes well for our business going forward is the growth in share of synthetic apparel compared to cotton apparel. In 2008, synthetic apparel had a 38 percent share of total apparel consumption in the U.S. That share is expected to be 49 percent in 2013.…Although we expect limited relief in raw material prices in the near term, we do expect to see less volatility in raw material pricing in fiscal 2014 compared to the last two years and continued moderation over time.”

In the last year, wool prices have dropped to $4.51 a pound from $5 a pound, according to the U.S. DOA. The Australian Wool Production Forecasting Committee forecast shorn wool production to be 345 million kilograms, a 1.4 percent decline, in 2013-14. The committee said the decrease reflects a 1 percent decline in sheep flocks, as farmers turn to more profitable uses of their land, and an expected slight reduction in average fleece weights due to the dry seasonal conditions experienced in many wool growing regions in the first half of 2013.

Australian Wool Innovation noted that with cashmere prices at a high level of $132 a kilogram due to tight supply, superfine merino wool prices and demand should strengthen. AWI added that signs are for a solid year ahead based on favorable currency rates, improved economic conditions in the U.S. and parts of Western Europe, a mild export lift and steady consumption growth in China.

FT : Luxury brands eye trends for 2014

The stellar growth of the luxury industry’s global groups slowed considerably in 2013, in the wake of dampening enthusiasm from Asian consumers, volatile exchange rates and a raging battle for customer loyalty in an ever more competitive marketplace.

Yet despite a chorus of caution from investors and executives, some bright spots are appearing. The Americas again became luxury’s largest growth market, fuelled by rebounding economic optimism and a roaring tourist trade. Emerging markets beyond the Brics, once underpenetrated and underestimated by the industry old guard, are providing a new wave of opportunities at home and abroad.

Here are a few themes that could define the industry’s agenda in the coming year.

M&A moves up a gear
After a year that saw LVMH buy Loro Piana and Kering buy Pomellato, analysts expect luxury M&A to step up in 2014 as conglomerates seek to offset slowing sales at mega-brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci.
The new year will start with the Versace family deciding on a sale of 20 per cent of their closely held company. Blackstone, CCMP and Italy’s state Fondo Strategico are in the running. Santo Versace, the Milanese brand’s non-executive chairman, has said a decision will be made by mid-January.
As in past years, Italy’s feted independent brands top analysts’ lists of potential targets. Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, Ermenegildo Zegna, Tod’s and Brunello Cucinelli are among those names being drawn up by industry watchers. In France, Chanel remains the most coveted elite brand.
Executives say Chopard, H Stern and David Yurman could be targets for LVMH, Kering or Richemont as they seek to beef up in the fast-growing jewellery industry.
However, translating interest in such family firms into a buyout is difficult unless there are succession problems and a dire need for outside capital. It took LVMH 10 years to woo Bulgari , which it eventually bought in 2011 when the family owners decided they needed outside capital to grow.
Brunello Cucinelli recently told the FT that his business is his passion and is not for sale, reflecting a widely held feeling among self-made fashion entrepreneurs.

For those brands intent on retaining their independence but wanting more capital to grow, a stock market listing is the more probable outcome. Raffaele Jerusalmi, chief executive of the Milan stock exchange, predicts a wave of listings in Italy’s fashion capital next year. After the record first day trading of Moncler in December – the Franco-Italian skiwear maker’s shares rose 50 per cent – industry insiders say more companies are taking a look at the bourse.

The great fall in China
2013 was the year the plug was pulled on luxury’s roaring run in China. According to a study released this month by Bain & Company, Chinese luxury growth over the previous 12 months slipped to just 2.5 per cent – a sharp slowdown from the 7 per cent recorded in 2012.
With a now cooling macroeconomic climate, the industry’s great fall in China looks set to continue. The government’s crackdown on ostentatious gift-giving has weighed heavily on watches and menswear sales, both of which were once important drivers of double-digit growth.
Despite significant investment by some of the world’s leading brands in glossy stores and staff training, mainland Chinese consumers continue to spend heavily outside their home nation; Bain reported that 67 per cent of all Chinese luxury purchases this year were made overseas.
The country’s overall clout in the sector is not diminishing – Greater China now accounts for a quarter of Louis Vuitton’s revenue, 35 per cent of Cartier’s, and a whopping 45 per cent of Omega’s, according to Exane BNP Paribas. But as customers develop a more sophisticated awareness of luxury, many have become more selective about the products they are buying, causing headaches for established kingpins.

LVMH was stung in its latest quarterly earnings by Chinese brand fatigue for flagship label Louis Vuitton, while Prada attributed weaker than expected third-quarter profits to “moderated growth, notably in Greater China”.
Many companies are looking to 2014 as a year of stabilisation with a conservative outlook on expansion, raising product prices and focusing on the maintenance of current retail operations. The exceptions lie on opposite ends of the market spectrum; ultra-luxe labels such as Bottega Veneta will increase their presence, as will more players from the “accessible luxury” field, such as US accessories group Coach.

America: land of the free spending
For many, the return to form of the US luxury market in 2013 was a shock, after several years flailing in the wake of the 2008 financial crisis. The US remains the world’s number one nation for luxury goods consumption.
What does the new year hold for luxury?

Share your thoughts in the comment box below
An October study by Altagamma and Bain & Company said luxury spending in the Americas had risen 4 per cent this year to €69bn, boosted by brand expansion in many of the US’s largest cities, strong online sales and renewed consumer confidence.
Euromonitor International reported that the highest-grossing category was premium clothing, with Americans spending $29.5bn on apparel in the past 12 months.
Unlike their mass-market counterparts, luxury brands including Prada, Tiffany and Burberry have been reporting accelerated sales in the Americas, with many expecting continued strength over the critical 2013-14 holiday period.

“Many of these companies are providing big beats, and these results show that the upscale shopper from mature markets continues to power on globally, particularly in North America,” noted Rahul Sharma, analyst at Neev Capital.
There will be several key battlegrounds in the coming year. Some of the fiercest competition will come online, where companies will continue to compete for ecommerce market share and social media visibility as services such as Facebook and Instagram increase advertising opportunities. Discount and factory outlets will provide a healthy sales backbone for several domestic premium retailers including Coach and J Crew, especially from tourists hailing from Asia and Brazil.
The year ahead will showcase the latest round of the US department store wars. In January, former Harrods chief merchant Marigay McKee will take up her post at the helm of Saks, with a $250m refit of the flagship Fifth Avenue store first on her agenda. Meanwhile, Neiman Marcus, under new owners Ares Management, says it will invest $100m in developing “omnichannel” operations.

‘Accessible luxury’ takes a larger piece of the pie
After two decades of seeing luxury as a monolithic and highly profitable sector, many investors began realising in 2012 that a brand-by-brand approach was required. Throughout 2013, the “hi-lo” divide between the industry’s key groups became more pronounced.
High-luxe yet ubiquitous European brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci have struggled to maintain sales momentum in the slowing Asian market, while so-called “accessible luxury” labels – many hailing from the US – have soared to new heights. This looks set to continue.
Michael Kors – welcomed last month into the S&P 500 – has produced consistently strong global returns, though rivals including Ralph Lauren, Tory Burch and J Crew have also recorded steady growth, particularly in newer markets. These companies share a “pyramid” business model: a luxury collection at the top that rests on a base of less expensive diffusion or outlet lines providing the bulk of profits.

Particularly in recession-hit Europe, this mix has proved popular. Michael Kors’ European sales doubled in the last quarter, with comparable growth expected in 2014. These companies plan to expand their retail presence in the region next year, capitalising on the gap in the market left by traditional upmarket European brands who, as they eyed up Asia, lost the loyalty of local shoppers.
UK high street retailer Karen Millen announced it was moving into accessible luxury territory next year, while smaller brands such as rag & bone, flush with investor cash, are attracting attention from the all-powerful Asian consumer looking for new ways to present a cooler, more individualistic look than those offered by luxury’s old guard.