Classic Cuts and Chocolate Brown: What Menswear Buyers Want From Paris
With budgets down or flat there's a return to conservative cuts, and streetwear is in the rearview mirror.
The momentum from Milan continued to build on strong tailoring, with the Paris collections leaving no doubt that we have left hypebeasts behind and entered into a new era of elevated elegance and impeccable cuts. Buyers are keen to snap up pieces that can be cornerstones of grown-up wardrobes, or fit effortlessly in with existing classics.
Single- or double-breasted suit jackets paired with well-cut trousers and long coats were a key silhouette, while colors were soothing and mostly monochromatic in chocolates, charcoal, khaki or cream, with touches of soft pinks or sky.
For all the obituaries written about the suit and tie, it made a comeback, while “Grandpa-core” with cozy knits and cardigans is starting to bubble up for a softer take on classic dressing. Chocolate brown is the next key color, according to several buyers.
“There was an elegant and modern wardrobe with refined classics,” said Galeries Lafayette menswear officer and buying director Alice Feillard. “It was a season full of impeccable, sophisticated and tailored silhouettes, from classic tailoring to elevated and twisted classics,” she said.
Dries Van Noten was by far the favorite collection of the week. He wanted an “elegant look for young guys,” and hit that mark to the delight of buyers who are eager to get their hands on his coats, tailored cargos and slim-lined shoes.
Jonathan Anderson’s nearly pantsless collection for Loewe with his roomy trench coats and cable-knit cardigans was also highly coveted, while Kim Jones’ magical mirror-go-round runway, showcasing couture tailoring for men, was also a standout. At Valentino, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s masterful work on soft suits and overcoats with added embellishments was a new twist on the codes of workwear and masculinity.
Oustiside of the major houses, Auralee has been hovering just under-the-radar for a while, and made many buyers’ lists this season, with Ryota Iwai’s pairing of purple and green, while Amiri’s red carpet-inspired collection played on pinks and browns. Both were cited for their use of color.
Rick Owens’ intimate open house was cited as best format for its up close and personal presentation, while Kenzo’s show at the newly revamped Bibliothèque Nationale was beloved, if more for the venue than the collection.
There were still spectacles — see Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton rodeo — that kept the party spirit high, but buyers were drawn toward quieter presentations.
“There was an intimacy to the season with an enhanced focus on craft, construction, and couture-like detailing with many brands choosing to show their collections within their own maisons…providing a great opportunity to see the clothing up close and personal,” said Neiman Marcus senior editorial director Bruce Pask.
Buyers were blunt about their budgets. While the menswear market is growing, overall spend is slightly reduced or mostly flat, with a concentration on investing more on well-performing current brands than expanding their offerings.
Outside of the department stores, smaller boutiques were clear they are looking for more commercial pieces. “Against the backdrop of a global economic climate that is not particularly clear, the trend is toward conservatism. More than ever, designers and retailers are keen to keep turnover high,” said Le Monde de SHC owner Eric Young.
That focus on strongly selling pieces that fit into a wardrobe was key for many buyers who were looking to provide cautious customers with classic investment pieces.
Emmanuel de Bayser, co-owner of The Corner in Berlin, perhaps summed up the positioning best: “It is a time of focus and restraint, certainly not unbridled creativity and offerings…We cut almost all streetwear brands and focus on long-term partnerships, and are happy to grow with these brands.”
Here’s a look at what buyers are buzzing about. Responses have been edited.