Versace, Ralph Lauren, Brunello Cucinelli show report SS17 Milan menswear
The big trend in Milan isn’t a colour, or silhouette, it’s clothes that men can actually wear
Sometimes trends in fashion are about a sensibility rather than a particular look. At three shows or presentations in Milan, where the menswear caravan has parked on the next step of the spring/summer 17 season, there was a move towards the wearable. I know. Clothing that’s wearable. What will they think of next?
Donatella Versace has been moving her menswear towards a reality for a few seasons, usually through sportswear. Here the wearability saturated into pretty much every look. Zip up blousons came in old Versace prints that had been over dyed to create a deeper colour palette. Single-breasted jackets were in a jersey that kept its shape, so they could be treated badly to no ill effect. The weather has been terrible in Milan the past few days, so the long billowing nylon parkas felt apt. It was a strong look.
New CEO Jonathan Akeroyd, ex of Alexander McQueen, has been in the job less than a month, so his effect is yet to be felt. But the mood here was widening the offer. Silk knits worn as well as tied around the waist were a message to its customers: don’t just come here for the extravagance, there are everyday pieces too. Oh yeah but then there was the slashed leather jackets. And the skin tight running shorts worn with a bare chest. This is still Versace, after all.
The music to the show was tracks that Prince had recorded for Donatella. They were good friends. When she talks about him now, she wells up. The tracks sounded like late night jams, versions of his hits re-recorded and reworded. Instead of citing Dynasty on a version of Kiss, he said Desperate Housewives instead. They were extraordinary recordings to hear. Funny, the privileges of this job.
Earlier in the day, there was a brunch on the roof terrace of Ralph Lauren’s palazzo. Sure, it’s nice to stand and chit chat, but us hacks get twitchy: where are the clothes? It was half an hour before the presentation was supposed to begin, but some American colleagues had other places to be, so they led a march to the lift. Downstairs, the models dashed to take their positions on the traditional Ralph Lauren tableaux, clustered in groups to denote the specific theme: navy! Art Deco black and white evening! Etc etc.
Representatives looked panicked as the models dashed across the room to take their place, but actually they shouldn’t, since it was good to see this modern collection move. The impact of new CEO Stefan Larsson was clear. Suiting had construction removed and had been garment dyed, technical speak for being made more approachable. Much of the tailoring as shown with a sweater beneath; if there were shirt and tie, it was often all the same shade. A biker jacket was made from easily-sellable cotton; a grey tropical wool zip-up was waterproofed. Most here was restraint, but under one blazer was an excellent Fair Isle sweater that popped with acid pink and cornflower blue. Crucially, the majority of the models could step down from their place, head out on to the street, and easily merge into real life: a good thing.
“It’s a new moment for menswear,” said Brunello Cucinelli. Oh wow, OK, better listen close. He was talking through his translator, his English as non-existent as my Italian. All around were men in blazers worn trackpants. There were gilets, sneakers, blousons. He was talking about the victory of casual over formal, right? No. He meant a new moment in the way men were shopping. He said they were no longer replacing their clothes, more building a wardrobe, adding pieces, wearing old with new.
OK, OK, but what about the trackpants? Cucinelli is a demonstrative man. He stood up, and summoned over a model who was patrolling the showroom. He put his hands in his pockets and waggled his trousers — they were tailored, with a cuff. The model wore trackpants, with a cuff. He said he was selling suits with two options for trousers, tailored and track. What was important was the blazer, to keep it all sharp. That blazer was linen, snug, and both looks of desirable reality.
I had to get to another show. We stood, and Cucinelli came close. “You are young,” he said through his translator. I can’t remember exactly what came next, but he was talking about me as part of a younger generation, and the responsibilities on our shoulders: the future is in your hands, you can make a change, “you are the sentinel”.
He stopped, then continued, “and maybe in ten years time you’ll remember what a crazy man in Milan said.