The ultimate guide to vegan Paris
Where to find everything that’s great about French gastronomy — in plant-based form
Hosting visitors in Paris is usually a painless experience. Most are delighted to simply walk around, eat food and drink wine. But when a vegan friend came to see me from London, I felt out of my depth. The ubiquitous buttery pastries, cheeseboards and steak tartares were definitely not going to cut it.
The French are understandably defensive about their gastronomy. It is so central to their identity and renowned globally that the Unesco has awarded it World Heritage status. Unfortunately for my friend, they have been equally resistant to the growing trend of vegan cuisine as they are protective of their own.
This defiance takes many faces. When I interned at an independent French magazine, my boss despised vegans so much that he banned us from writing about their restaurants. Last year, the Green Party mayor of Lyon sparked outrage when he proposed introducing meatless meals to school canteens. Farmers driving tractors stormed the city hall in protest.
It’s not just pride: many French people see veganism as an existential threat that could jeopardise jobs and alter the country’s social fabric. France is Europe’s biggest beef and second-largest poultry and dairy producer. Regional specialities such as charcuterie and cheese are tied to centuries-old traditions and are often protected by state regulation.
Food, however, has a way to bypass borders and keep up with the times. And so a niche but ambitious new breed of Parisian chefs have made it their mission to marry the best of French culinary traditions with plant-based cuisine. Below are some of my favourite bakeries, restaurants and even fromagers for vegans in the eternal food capital of the world.