FT : Xu Yangtian, Shein’s mysterious founder under fire

Xu Yangtian, Shein’s mysterious founder under fire
China’s fast fashion giant, dealing with outrage in France, was created by a man who is unrecognisable even to his own employees

It was supposed to be a triumph: Shein’s emergence from the shadows of online retail into a permanent physical boutique in one of the world’s most recognisable department stores in Paris, the global capital of fashion.

Instead, the China-founded fast fashion giant is this week dealing with French street protests, a government-led effort to ban it from operating in the country and allegations that third-party sellers on its site have been touting machetes, knuckle dusters and sex dolls that looked like children.

For Shein, the outcry in France is just the latest in a series of controversies that have plagued its years-long, multi-jurisdiction campaign to become a public company. For publicity shy founder Xu Yangtian, they will serve as a reminder that high-profile campaigns carry their own set of risks.

“He’s extremely low-key and inconspicuous,” says Hu Jianlong, founder of Shenzhen consultancy Brands Factory, adding that even Shein employees would struggle to correctly identify him.

“But if a company reaches such a large scale, with employees all over the world and then they are preparing for an IPO . . . At that point, it’s very difficult to maintain a low profile.”

Xu was born in Zibo, a manufacturing city in eastern China’s Shandong province, according to people who know him.

But while his name occasionally appears in company press releases, Shein’s website carries no picture or biographical information about its founder. He has never given a media interview, is rarely photographed publicly and hasn’t posted on social media for nearly a decade. There has even been confusion about his English name, which he changed from Chris to Sky.

A few details have been reported about his early life. Born in 1983, he got his first taste of international trade while at Qingdao university in the 2000s, sourcing orders of everything from gaskets to spark plugs. After graduation he moved to Nanjing where he founded an ecommerce business, touting a range of consumer goods directly to customers. Later, he co-founded wedding dress seller Sheinside, a precursor to the fast fashion company of today.

Shein’s low prices and vast choice led to meteoric success in western markets, particularly the US. Algorithms scour the web for trending ideas and feed them to designers, who then place orders with a network of about 7,000 contract suppliers, many clustered in Panyu, a manufacturing suburb of Guangzhou.

The company tests the popularity of new designs via ultra-small orders, only ordering more when it is sure there will be demand. This model allows Shein to offer millions of designs at any one time, according to a person familiar with the company, compared to tens of thousands at other mass market retailers.

“Xu effectively turned supply chain agility into a strategic weapon, disrupting legacy brands like H&M, Zara and Forever 21,” says Brittain Ladd, a US supply chain consultant who previously worked at Amazon and Dell.

But western retailers argue the company unfairly exploits customs tax exemptions granted to small value packages, known as de minimis in the US, allowing it to undercut domestic rivals.

US President Donald Trump’s ending of these exemptions — and similar efforts in the EU and the UK — has driven down Shein’s valuation just as it seeks to list its shares.

The location if its listing has also been in flux. While the company initially hoped to list in New York, allegations from lawmakers that it employs forced labour in its supply chain led it to focus on a London IPO.

A disagreement between Chinese and UK regulators over the language in its risk disclosure prompted a second pivot, this time to Hong Kong, where it has filed for a listing confidentially. Once valued at as much as $100bn, some investors are pushing the group to cut its valuation to around $30bn to speed up the process.

“Shein is at a critical point of figuring out its business model for the next five to 10 years,” says Sheng Lu, a professor at the University of Delaware who studies the fashion industry. “The challenge is the growth, how to keep expanding, how to further satisfy their investors, especially if they need to think about an IPO.”

In 2023, Shein launched a third party market place, in response to competition from nimble rival Temu. This allowed it to diversify into new categories, but sowed the seeds of its troubles in France.

French finance minister Roland Lescure has called the “horrors” for sale on Shein’s marketplace “disgusting”. Ministers said on Thursday that all Shein packages had been blocked for the past 24 hours as customs agents searched through them. The French government has also called for the EU to take action against Shein flouting European laws, including going so far as levying fines equivalent to 6 per cent of global revenues if it does not comply.

Xu now lives in Singapore, where the company moved its headquarters in 2022. Several people describe him as “shy” and introverted. One who has worked with him called him “rough around the edges”.

While some partners would like Xu to take a more public-facing role before the company lists its shares, the latest controversies explain his reticence. The backlash in France may only serve as a reminder of the comforts of near anonymity.

FT : More young adults to leave UK due to low salaries and rising tax burden

More young adults to leave UK due to low salaries and rising tax burden
Wealth managers issue warning as worries grow among people in their 20s over the economy and job prospects

The UK faces an increase in young adults leaving the country due to low salaries, the rising tax burden and a lack of affordable housing, wealth managers have warned.

Camilla Stowell, chief executive of wealth at Rathbones, said: “More UK individuals and families are thinking of leaving and we can see that with the next generation, we’re seeing a trickle of the . . . younger generation going to other geographies in order to find better opportunities.”

She added that the rising interest among people in their 20s had been sparked by the “less than optimistic tone” about the UK’s economic growth prospects, as well as the job opportunities and earnings power overseas, noting that the younger generation are also more “mobile”.

Stowell said some of the destinations people were moving to included Dubai, the US and Ireland, which Rathbones said offered low or favourable tax treatment and are considered good places to build businesses and careers.

Her comments come after City bosses warned the UK minimum wage was putting pressure on starting salaries for graduates at professional services firms, raising concerns about the impact on hiring for law, finance and accountancy roles.

In this month’s Budget, Rachel Reeves, the chancellor, is expected to announce a 4 per cent increase in the minimum wage to £12.70 an hour, boosting the average salary for a 40-hour week from £25,376 to £26,416. The lowest graduate salary in professional services and finance is £25,726.

“A quiet exodus is under way,” said David Little, financial planning partner at UK wealth manager Evelyn Partners. “Increasingly, young professionals and graduates in the UK are packing their bags, not for a gap year or a sabbatical, but for a permanent move abroad.

“I’ve seen a noticeable rise in clients sharing that their children are choosing to emigrate in pursuit of a better life abroad. What’s particularly striking is that, rather than trying to dissuade them, many parents are actively encouraging the move.”

According to a recent poll by the Adam Smith Institute, a think-tank, one in four Britons aged between 18 and 30 said they could leave the UK, with many pointing to the lack of affordable housing and financial strains.

Another report by the British Council found nearly three-quarters of younger people would consider living and working in another country in the short or long term.

Little said there was “a growing sense of disillusionment with the current state of the UK”, and it was “hard to ignore the mounting pressures, rising taxes, increasing unemployment and growing concerns about crime”.

“With the tax burden now at its highest level in over 70 years, I find it harder than ever to argue against their decision to seek opportunity elsewhere,” he said.

Both Little and Stowell said that Dubai is increasingly attractive.

“Dubai has transformed into a global career hub, attracting thousands of British workers with its tax-free salaries, lack of crime, booming job market and high quality of life,” Little added.

He pointed to recent data that showed relocation enquiries from UK professionals to the UAE have surged by over 400 per cent in five years.

UK professionals earning £90,000-£120,000 a year may lose up to 45 per cent to income tax and national insurance — even higher in Scotland. However, in Dubai, that same salary is tax-free, often supplemented with housing allowances, private medical insurance and school fees, Little said.

“Many young Britons feel the UK no longer offers the opportunities or lifestyle they aspire to . . . surveys show around 40 per cent of under-35s are planning to emigrate within five years. That’s a frightening statistic.”

Families and older generations are also considering whether to leave the UK following last year’s Budget, when the government expanded the inheritance tax regime to include unused pension pots from next April and some farmland.

“It’s accelerated since the last Budget,” Stowell said. “The tax changes . . . have a knock-on effect in terms of optimism in the UK, job opportunities, earnings power . . . and tax thresholds, they’ve been frozen for so long.”

Barron's : China’s Stocks Are Flying as Beijing Doubles Down on Tech. Why the Ec

China’s Stocks Are Flying as Beijing Doubles Down on Tech. Why the Economy Is Still Struggling.
China’s commitment to innovation poses a long-term threat to U.S. companies. What it needs now is for its citizens to spend more.

The future of robotics, biotechnology, and artificial intelligence is playing out in hundreds of fully automated labs across China managed by Hong Kong–listed biotech XtalPi Holdings. The company, founded in Boston by a trio of Massachusetts Institute of Technology–trained physicists, uses data generated in the labs to train AI models to accelerate drug discovery—garnering partnerships with Western pharmaceutical giants Pfizer and Eli Lilly.

XtalPi is still quite small, but the company’s story points to a major shift under way across China’s economy. Long known as the world’s factory, China is fast becoming a hotbed of innovation. In medicine, where the country was once content to manufacture drugs discovered elsewhere, it’s now developing new treatments for cancer, diabetes, and obesity. At the same time, it’s pushing hard for breakthroughs in aviation, robotics, semiconductors, and AI. DeepSeek, the Chinese AI company that shook global markets earlier this year, may only have been the beginning.

“When Chinese investors saw a homegrown AI answer to ChatGPT, it created this sense that China is a competitor—perhaps the only one—to the U.S. in terms of innovation,” says Philip Wool, chief research officer at Rayliant Investment Research. “That will be disruptive for Western companies.”

Already, China is putting up some big numbers. Its research and development spending has been rising by almost 9% a year, compared with 1.7% for the U.S., according to the latest data from the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development. China filed 70,160 international patents in 2024, well ahead of the 54,087 filed by innovators in the U.S. China installed some 300,000 industrial robots in 2024, almost 10 times the number in the U.S., and it accounts for some two-thirds of all electric-vehicle sales.

The new dynamism has sent the country’s stocks flying. After a long slide, the MSCI China index is up 43% this year, more than double the surge of the S&P 500. Some money managers see further gains ahead, in both broad exchange-traded funds and specific stocks.

Yet all is not well in China’s economy. Far from it. Despite the burst of high-tech innovation, the economy seems mired in a long-term funk. Fixed-asset investment is contracting and retail sales growth is slowing, despite policymakers’ efforts to stimulate growth. China’s population has been shrinking for three years, and its property market has slumped for more than four years, taking the biggest store of household wealth with it. Mountains of debt weigh on the country. The upshot: Annual economic growth is expected to be down to 3% to 4% for the next few years, versus 6% to 8% in the recent past.

These two pictures of China—a rapidly advancing technological challenger and an economy in decay—aren’t as contradictory as they might seem. In fact, they are of a piece. Beijing had to do something about the bleak economy, and its old playbook of pouring money into infrastructure and construction projects to deal with economic slumps was no longer working. Plus, it needed to reduce its reliance on the West for critical technology as its rivalry with the U.S. heated up. It needed something new.

Beijing is turning sectors such as pharmaceuticals, semiconductors, and quantum computing into national strategic priorities and supporting them with heavy investment through subsidies and patient capital for research and development, as well as reforms that cut red tape. Bank of America estimates that China’s AI capital spending this year could total 600 billion to 700 billion yuan ($84 billion to $98 billion), with more than half coming from the government.

The high-tech push is sure to put pressure on U.S. companies. Think of it as the second China shock of this century. Much as China’s heavy investments in sectors such as steel contributed to the hollowing out of basic manufacturing in the U.S. and elsewhere after its entry into the World Trade Organization in 2001, China’s new initiative challenges advanced industries that are drivers of developed economies. That was clear in the strong hand that Chinese leader Xi Jinping played in trade talks with the U.S. last month, using the country’s dominance in rare-earth minerals and processing as a weapon.

China’s previous economic transformation left the country with a voracious appetite for commodities, cars, and capital goods. That, in turn, powered global growth. This time, China’s high-tech acceleration may end up much more one-sided, with benefits largely accruing to Chinese players—and those willing to risk investing in them.

Whether China’s new drive for innovation can seriously improve its economy is another question entirely. Signs of stress are everywhere: In a recent quarterly earnings call, China Merchant Bank highlighted an 11% decline in consumption among customers, retail loans under pressure, and the fact that 25 of the top 30 Chinese companies were caught in price wars.

Even if the country’s property downturn is nearing a conclusion, as some believe, whatever is left of the real estate sector will be a shadow of its former self, perhaps 40% of its original size, says Logan Wright, a partner at Rhodium Group. That will leave a gaping hole in the economy; property previously accounted for about a quarter of gross domestic product.

Beijing’s investment in AI, pharmaceuticals, and other advanced technologies likely amounts to under 10% of GDP and won’t fill the gap, says Wright. It is, however, a start. China’s commitment to tech exports recently prompted Goldman Sachs’ Asia team to raise its forecast for China’s GDP growth next year by a half-point, to 4.8%

China has seemed reluctant to take the strong medicine many economists suggest: initiatives to get Chinese households to consume more of the goods and services the country produces rather than relying on demand from the rest of the world. China provides 27% of global investment—the most of any country—yet accounts for just 12% of global consumption.

But there are signs that China may be ready to finally make some much-needed economic adjustments. In October, the Central Committee of the Chinese Communist Party unveiled a five-year road map that suggested it recognized the need to spur consumption—a notable shift. The road map hinted that policymakers may do more to get households spending, including directing more resources to public services. Already in the works: cash transfers to parents of young children and aid for families with disabled seniors.

“There’s a minimum level of economic activity needed to maintain social stability to be a superpower in technology and military—and with property tapped out and investments running into constraints and exports becoming unreliable, the only option is consumption,” says Rory Green, head of China research for TS Lombard. “It’s the last—and hardest—lever to pull, but they are finally recognizing it.”

Meaningful structural shifts clearly will require time and resources. For instance, the buildout of a safety net that would convince the Chinese people to save less and spend more could cost nearly a third of annual GDP, Rhodium estimates.

Meanwhile, China’s leaders hope they can sidestep those costly measures with a narrower bet on technology and industrial advances to lift productivity and ease the country’ ills, much like in the U.S.

China’s latest five-year plan urges policymakers to adopt “extraordinary measures” to fuel breakthroughs in critical areas such as semiconductors and high-end equipment and to break the country’s dependence on the U.S. and others while building on its leverage, such as in critical mineral reserves and resources.

“China can kill two birds with one stone by going ‘all in’ on technology and productivity strategies,” says Jorry Nøddekær, a fund manager for the Polar Capital Emerging Market Stars fund, who thinks the approach can help China become more independent of the West’s technology and repair its economy. Nøddekær says he has substantially increased allocations this year to new China economy sectors like the internet, advanced industrials, pharma, and biotech.

China’s ability to absorb tariffs and navigate U.S.-China tensions by flexing its dominance in rare earths left officials more confident that they can pull off the high-tech strategy, according to geopolitical consultants who have visited China in recent weeks. Indeed, China’s exports rose 8% in September compared with a year ago, even as the trade war prompted a 27% fall in shipments to the U.S.

Restrictions imposed by its adversaries are accelerating China’s push to innovate. China can’t surpass the U.S. and its allies in the most advanced semiconductors, which require technology from companies such as Nvidia and the Netherlands’ ASML. Their exports are tightly controlled.

But China is making inroads in midlevel chips and parts of the AI ecosystem, such as optical wiring, components, and other hardware. One example is China’s largest chip foundry, Hua Hong Semiconducto, which provides chips for a range of consumer technologies.

Global fund managers have a long list of companies they are tracking to keep tabs on China’s innovation, even some they are restricted from owning: DJI, on U.S. blacklists, is a leader in drones; Mindray, a medical monitoring and imaging company, is making inroads in markets once dominated by U.S. companies; and Geekplus specializes in autonomous mobile robots that have transformed warehouse fulfillment centers and the transport of industrial materials.

trategists and fund managers see the potential for a new bull market, even if this rally needs a period of digestion.

“What sets [Chinese companies] apart are extraordinarily lean operational cost structures, exceptionally tight value propositions for extremely demanding customers, and much shorter product iteration cycles compared with global peers,” says Zak Dychtwald, founder of research and advisory firm BridgeWorks Global. “The fierceness and price and cost demands of China’s markets make the winners emerging from here far more globally fit than most any other country’s environment will produce.”

Western businesses, for their part, face a triple whammy when competing with China. Chinese companies are nibbling at their market share in secondary markets such as Brazil and Australia and emerging as fierce rivals at home. In addition, their businesses in China are increasingly challenged amid rising tariffs, the risk of retaliation, slowing growth, and changing preferences. Starbucks said this week that it would sell control of its operations there to an Asian private-equity firm. The coffee giant, which entered China in 1999, has faced increasing competition from domestic rivals such as Luckin Coffee in recent years.

And while Chinese companies are going global, they are increasingly buying local. Policymakers are pressuring businesses to buy from domestic suppliers. For instance, Reuters reported this past Thursday that Beijing banned foreign AI chips from Nvidia, Advanced Micro Devices, and Intel from government-funded data-center buildouts.

That shift could keep trade tensions front and center. As companies such as electric vehicle-maker BYD move into advanced economies, policymakers there are pushing back with tariffs and taking a page from China’s industrial policy playbook. For instance, the U.S. is funding Intel and taking stakes in critical minerals companies. The Dutch government recently seized Nexperia, whose chips are used in cars and consumer electronics, on economic security grounds.

Similar moves worked for China and may help the U.S., says TS Lombard’s Green. But it will be difficult, he says, to “beat China at their own game where the system is set up for big top-down objectives, incentives are aligned, there are no elections, and policy is consistent.”

Geopolitically, recognition of China’s growing force in technology—of the risk of a second China shock—could reinvigorate global alliances as Western countries join forces to protect themselves. One recent example: U.S. deals with Malaysia, Australia, and Japan to find alternatives to China’s rare-earth dominance.

But while China can create headaches for global multinationals and Western policymakers, it may well create opportunity for investors as Beijing boosts spending in critical sectors.

Unquestionably, China’s stock market has come to life this year. Many foreign investors had deemed it uninvestible amid Beijing’s harsh Covid-era lockdowns, costly crackdowns on education and internet companies, and geopolitical tensions. But a stronger effort among policymakers to steady the economy, followed by innovation wins like DeepSeek, jump-started a powerful rebound last fall. The market is no longer dirt cheap, with the MSCI China now trading at 14 times next year’s earnings, but that’s still well below the S&P 500’s 22.5.

Chinese stock rallies often fade after a year or two—and this one is about to hit its first anniversary. But Gavekal analyst Thomas Gatley notes that trading volumes are higher now than when the rally started in late 2024. This rally, he notes, unlike previous ones, isn’t predicated on policy support from the government but rather on earnings improvements in sectors like those tied to AI.

Also encouraging: Chinese bank deposits total CNY165 trillion, compared with a stock market value of around CNY100 trillion, suggesting, says Gavekal, that a lot of money is sitting in low-yield deposits that could eventually trickle into stocks.

Gatley sees room for further gains, suggesting to clients in a recent note that they overweight China’s IT sector and companies like Tencent and Alibaba over the broader index. The iShares MSCI China Multisector Tech ETF is up 39% so far this year.

TS Lombard’s Green also sees more opportunity, especially with foreign investors still owning less in China than their benchmarks. Green takes legendary investor and longtime China bull Jim Rogers’ advice: Buy what the Chinese are buying—and right now, that is largely services. Meditation retreats and niche luxury brands, often domestic, remain popular, along with travel.

Of course, there’s one other thing Chinese households may load up on if Beijing succeeds in bolstering its economy and accelerating innovation: Chinese stocks. If domestic investors look to stocks as a place to park their cash, China’s stock rally could be more resilient than the one in the U.S.

Barron's : How a Dutch Auto Chip Maker Got Caught Up in the U.S.-China Trade War

How a Dutch Auto Chip Maker Got Caught Up in the U.S.-China Trade War

Breaking up with China is hard to do—especially for Europe, caught in the U.S.-China trade war crossfire. Messing with small bits of a supply chain can cause big global headaches. Those are lessons from the unfolding drama around Nexperia, a Dutch producer of humble yet essential automotive microchips that was acquired in 2017 by state-controlled Chinese conglomerate Wingtech Technology.

Nexperia’s plant in Nijmegen cranked out billions of components necessary to draw power from your car battery or turn your headlights on. It shipped them to China, where Wingtech tested, packaged, and re-exported them. “Nexperia makes the types of chips that are fundamental to virtually every modern vehicle,” says Nick Paul, general manager for United Kingdom–based supply chain specialist IC Blue “Substitution in automotive is difficult.”

Trouble started in December. The Biden administration, in its final tech war fusillade, added Wingtech and 139 other Chinese chip-related companies to its “entities list,” meaning that any U.S. business would need a special license to deal with them.

President Donald Trump’s Commerce Department upped the ante in September, determining that entities restrictions extended to any subsidiaries, e.g., Nexperia. On Oct. 12, the Dutch government invoked its 1952 Availability of Goods Act to assume control over Nexperia management.

“The Americans forced one of the most entrepreneurial countries on Earth into an expropriation lite,” says Dimitar Lilkov, a senior research officer at the Wilfried Martens Centre for European Studies.

Beijing’s first response was to shut down the Nexperia trade. Auto makers’ reaction was fast and global. Honda Motor suspended production at a Mexican assembly line. Volkswagen said it could be a week away from its own shutdowns.

China started sending more mixed signals after leader Xi Jinping’s sit-down with Trump on Oct. 30. “We will comprehensively consider the actual situation of the enterprise and exempt eligible exports,” its Commerce Ministry announced. “[China] has been engaging with EU companies to restore the partial flow of chips,” a European Union spokesperson noted on Nov. 4. “This avoids a worst-case scenario.”

So, China may not be ready to break up with the West yet, either. This might not be the last test where Beijing leans on its strength in work-a-day industrial semiconductors while Silicon Valley is entranced by whiz-bang artificial-intelligence-driven breakthroughs, though. “This dispute highlights that mature-node components are in fact strategically critical, and China remains central to global production,” Paul says.

The good news for Europe is that it’s also host to a brace of mature-node chip powers whose stocks have languished while U.S. tech sprinted ahead. The Continent is particularly strong in automotive chips, which could grab more investor attention if the AI bubble ever pops. Germany’s Infineon Technologies is the global leader in that category, followed by Dutch-Swiss STMicroelectronics.

“These companies make the most innovative chips for electric vehicles,” says Javier Correonero, an analyst covering European semiconductors at Morningstar. “That’s just not as growthy as AI.” Rounding out his list of potential European tech sleepers are two Dutch semiconductor equipment manufacturers: ASM International and BE Semiconductor.

It isn’t only Washington nudging Europe out of China’s embrace. Fearful of more Nexperias in the emerging domains of EVs and green technology, EU President Ursula von der Leyen ushered in a “de-risking” strategy for relations with the No. 2 economy. It would help if the Atlantic allies could work together, Lilkov argues.

“The Americans are smashing through their own interests and leaving us with a bloody nose,” he says.