(ZH) Rickards: How Far Could Stocks Fall?

Rickards: How Far Could Stocks Fall?

The stock market was down again yesterday, the exchanges beginning where they left off last week. But it’s the larger trend that’s really disconcerting.
Investors don’t need to be told about the stock market collapse in recent months. The Dow Jones Industrial Average is down over 20% since January. The S&P 500 is down 23% since January. And the Nasdaq Composite is down 32% since its all-time high last November.
Those falls are not as bad as the crashes in March 2020 during the pandemic or late 2008 during the global financial crisis, but those comparisons offer little comfort since they were among the worst in history.
The real problem for stock investors today is not that the crash is bad so far, but that it might just be getting started.
We may be looking at losses that more closely resemble the over-80% collapse of the Dow Jones from 1929–1932 or the 80% collapse of the Nasdaq in 2000–2001 in the wake of the dot-com bubble.
Different Causes, Same Outcome
The culprit this time will not be reckless mortgage lending, Chinese viruses or sock puppet spokespersons. The danger is the much higher interest rates needed to squash global inflation.
Rates have been going up since last spring, but inflation continues at very high levels. The question for analysts and investors is how high will rates have to go before inflation falls to levels deemed acceptable by central bankers.
Most observers have connected the interest rate hikes with the fight against inflation, but relatively few have realized the full implications. The real key to fighting inflation is to do so by increasing unemployment.
Fed Chair Jay Powell had a lot to say at a press conference following last Wednesday’s decision to raise interest rates another 75 basis points (the Fed’s third consecutive 75-basis-point increase).
Job One
Powell began by emphasizing that stopping inflation was Job One. He said, “Without price stability the economy does not work for anyone.” He noted that “Growth in consumer spending has slowed.”
His key phrase was “The labor market has remained extremely tight… Job openings are incredibly high… They need… to come down.” That’s Powell’s way of saying higher unemployment is the key to lower inflation.
Powell also said, “We think that we’ll need to bring our funds rate to a restrictive level and to keep it there for some time.” Restrictive level means a level that will cause inflation to drop toward the desired target over time.
When asked when restrictive policy levels will be reached, Powell said “There’s a ways to go.” To emphasize the point, Powell also said, “We’re committed to getting to a restrictive level… and getting there pretty quickly.”
The Endgame
What is the Fed’s target exactly?
Powell said the target was “to bring inflation down to 2%,” the Fed’s desired rate. When asked about the 2% inflation target, Powell said “We can’t fail to do that.” He went on to say, “We have got to get inflation behind us. I wish there were a painless way to do that but there isn’t.”
You get the point.
Rates will have to go to 4.75% (from the current level of 3.0%) in the hope that inflation (as measured by core PCE year over year, the Fed’s favorite gauge) drops from 4.6% to 3.5%.
At that point, real rates will be over 1.0% and the Fed will wait as long as a year for inflation to drop from 3.5% to the Fed’s target of 2.0%.
The real takeaway here is that Powell is dead serious about hitting a 2% inflation target. It seems he’ll raise rates as long as it takes to get there. He’s in a hurry to do so. And he was completely candid about the fact that there would be economic pain in the process.
Unfortunately, the cost will be a severe recession and a rise of unemployment to 5% or higher with millions of job losses, massive business failures, billions of dollars in bad debts and a continued crash in stock prices.
Will Powell Back Down?
This suggests some critically important questions for markets. Will Powell actually have the stomach to force rates up to 4.75%, about where they need to go to slow inflation?
Based on his remarks, the answer is yes. But we’ll have to wait and see.
The Fed was raising rates and reducing its balance sheet when on Dec. 24, 2018, the stock market tanked and proceeded to fall 20% in 2½ months. Powell panicked and pivoted again to monetary easing. Maybe he’ll do it again.
But there’s an important difference between then and now. There was no inflation to speak of in 2018. The Fed could therefore afford to pivot to easing without any real concern about inflation.
That’s obviously not the case in late 2022. Inflation is the Fed’s biggest concern right now, and Powell is making it clear that he’s serious about getting control of it, even if it results in a lot of economic and financial pain.
All Pain, No Gain
The problem, which I’ve addressed many times, is that the Fed has misdiagnosed the nature of today’s inflation.
The Fed is trying to crush inflation by reducing demand in the economy. They’re focusing on “demand pull” inflation where consumers are buying in anticipation of even higher inflation to come.
But the inflation we’re seeing is called “cost push” inflation. This comes from the supply side, not the demand side. It comes from global supply chain disruptions and the war in Ukraine.
Since the Fed has misdiagnosed the disease, they are applying the wrong medicine. Tight money won’t solve a supply shock. Higher prices will continue. But tight money will hurt consumers, increase savings and raise mortgage interest rates, which hurts housing among other things.
So the question is how much damage will Powell’s quest do to the economy and markets? That’s the biggest issue for investors. The answer is that Powell will do far more damage than he expects.
History shows that the Fed will overshoot. There won’t be any “soft landing.”
That damage may help Powell get to his inflation target. But it will increase unemployment and destroy stock markets along the way.
That’s if all goes according to plan. The actual scenario could be worse. Market investors are not ready for this.
But you should be.

FT : Norway targets electricity producers and fish farmers with resource tax

Norway targets electricity producers and fish farmers with resource tax
Government to impose $3bn in tax rises to balance increased spending on energy subsidies

Norway is to impose $3bn of tax increases on electricity producers and fish farmers as its centre-left government argues they should share more of the profits they extract from common resources with the rest of society.

The Scandinavian country will introduce a resource tax on aquaculture and wind power, raise the existing tax on hydropower and impose an extraordinary levy on wind and hydropower in response to spiralling electricity prices.

Norway aims to curb high inflation by reducing the amount it takes from its $1.2tn oil fund and is instead looking for new taxes to balance increased spending on electricity subsidies for households and businesses because of Europe’s energy crisis.

Norway is one of the biggest economic beneficiaries of Russia’s full-scale war on Ukraine as it has become the EU’s biggest gas supplier and its energy companies are earning record amounts.

The Norwegian government is set to earn NKr1.5tn ($137bn) in petroleum revenues this year and NKr1.9tn next year, according to economists at bank Nordea.

Norway’s government is coming under pressure to share those gains both internationally — as it seeks to head off charges of war profiteering — and domestically as households and companies are hit by higher energy prices.

Norway’s approach of increasing taxes on electricity producers and fish farmers stands in contrast to that of the new government in the UK, which has ruled out imposing windfall taxes on energy companies.

Norway’s prime minister, Jonas Gahr Støre, said after years of increasing inequality, “it is vital that those who have the most, and in many cases have gained significantly more in recent years, contribute more”.

He added: “An important part of this will be to ensure that the values that come from our natural resources must be distributed more equitably than today.”

Fish farm shares fell on Wednesday after the announcement. SalMar, Grieg Seafood, Lerøy Seafood, and Norway Royal Salmon were all down more than 20 per cent in midday trading.

Representatives of the affected industries reacted furiously, warning that the government was threatening Norway’s future prosperity.

Geir Ove Ystmark, head of the Norwegian seafood federation, said: “What the government is actually proposing is to slaughter one of the most important industries for Norway’s future.”

Knut Kroepelien, head of lobby group Energy Norway, said: “The tax measures the government is presenting could lead to a deeper and longer energy crisis.”

Trygve Slagsvold Vedum, finance minister, said the government had two ways to close the budget gap as it sought to reduce the use of money from the oil fund: big cuts in welfare or tax increases. “Spending cuts that provide funding of the magnitude needed now will not be compatible with the society we wish Norway to be,” he added.

The tax increases should raise about NKr33bn, a third of the NKr100bn the government expects costs to rise by in 2023 because of increases in welfare payments, integrating Ukrainian refugees, construction projects and electricity subsidies.

WWD : The Luxury of Repair: How High-end Handbags Are Being Restored, Primped an

The Luxury of Repair: How High-end Handbags Are Being Restored, Primped and Prepped
Experts say to take great care of your luxury handbags, and when in doubt — there's a myriad of repair services today for Chanel, Louis Vuitton and everything in between.

There is a very right and wrong way to perform repair in the world of luxury depending on who you ask. Though as old as time, the storied (and highly skilled) art of repair is seeing disruption as interest in clothing and accessory care rises.

As with resale, alterations is a billion-dollar game. The average American family spent roughly $1,700 on clothes in 2021, according to the Bureau of Labor Statistics, or some $140 a month (despite other reports signaling much higher). For clothing, tailoring fees can cost anywhere from $30 to $200 and up but can stretch the lives of garments considerably.

If repair wasn’t already in the brand’s playbook, it is today and here’s why.

What the Luxury Brands Say
Despite the rise of resale, luxury brands are apt to keep things in-house when they can, in a nod to tradition.

For Mulberry, there’s a raison d’être behind its own repair program.

“As we outlined in our Made to Last manifesto, Mulberry believes that our responsibility and our business doesn’t end when a customer leaves our store,” a spokesperson for the British fashion company best known for its luxury leather goods, told WWD. “We know that many of the bags we made 50 years ago are still going strong today, and we believe those we make today should be doing the same for the next 50 years. This attitude is fundamental in our approach to undertaking each repair with the upmost care and attention to detail so our bags can one day be passed on, ready for another lifetime of use.”

Mulberry performs some 10,000 repairs a year at The Rookery, one of its two Somerset factories where the brand still makes 50 percent of its bags. Typically completed between five to 16 weeks, Mulberry’s repairs are performed by its lifetime service center experts at no extra cost within a year if the bag is purchased new (or six months from Mulberry’s pre-loved offering). Outside of those windows, repairs can cost anywhere from 45 pounds for hardware replacement to 250 pounds on any of Mulberry’s leather goods.

As for ultra-vintage Mulberry finds?

“Customers are recommended to send their Mulberry bags in for a bespoke assessment — our craftspeople are always ready for a challenge,” the spokesperson said.

Likewise, be it a vintage product or new — Louis Vuitton maintains a quiet confidence in taking ownership of its repairs (and not having the service outsourced) since brand beginnings in 1854. Boasting 11 repair centers around the world and 1,200 professional repairers, the luxury maison is of course able to use correct material and metallics for original products. Louis Vuitton says it does repairs on 500,000 bags per year, and touts the existence of its repair e-service in the U.S. — where customers can request repair appointments online and video chat with an expert — as part of its ongoing sustainability journey.

Louis Vuitton did not provide exact pricing or repair timelines as it depends on the situation, complexity and client needs. Certain small repairs can be done immediately in store, free of charge, while others require more considerable attention, like the complete restoration of historic trunks.

Though a timeless necessity, the business of repairs — and everyday alterations — is still undergoing disruption.

What Tech Start-ups Say
Today, the tech addition is where alterations get altered for the modern user. While luxury says, “I know what’s best for you,” the tech start-up might say: “You get it your way,” and there’s an app for that.

So far, there’s The Restory in London, which is scoring venture capital and retailer buy-in. Another London-based company Sojo — founded by Depop alum and twenty-something entrepreneur Josephine Phillips — is also edging in on the space albeit with more mainstream, everyday clothing alteration. Sojo runs a network of seamsters and bicycle couriers across London and partners with brands like Ganni today. Stateside, two-year-old mobile clothing alterations start-up Alternew is peddling forth more mainstream access to clothing repair in New York City. The company was founded by former footwear designer Nancy Rhodes.

Where it gets complicated is in the realm of luxury handbags.

The Restory aims to work like a “foundation-matching app” but for repairs, using its proprietary tech stack to funnel production and damage data to the right specialist and into a tailored quote for the client. Though an earlier version existed, it was rebranded in 2018 by founder and chief executive officer Vanessa Jacobs. To date, the company has raised $4.5 million pounds to go toward its expansion and brand business.

On the business-to-business side, The Restory counts partnerships with Selfridge’s, Manolo Blahnik and Farfetch, doing things like leather aftercare and clothing services including cleaning, maintenance repairs, replacements and bespoke tailoring. Jacobs said the services are more streamlined today and competitive in the market as far as price and time. Many repairs can be completed in an hour but standard repairs are under two weeks and advanced repairs may take as much as six weeks.

The Restory will follow brand guidelines and repair protocols in the case of its budding branded partnerships business but the creativity happens in the bespoke work.

On the direct-to-consumer side, the company is doing repairs the brands would never do themselves. For one client, a dog chewed through a Louis Vuitton rolling suitcase, which typically costs $2,940 and up. Though The Restory will do color restorations (dyeing loafers black for instance), hand-stitching and more, the team ended up painting the client’s dog’s guilty portrait onto the bag to disguise the bite marks.

“We repaired it, but we couldn’t quite ‘do,’ well — we didn’t have the monogram. So what we did is she gave us a picture of her dog, and we painted the dog onto the bag and made something quite unique for her,” shared Jacobs. Louis Vuitton did not comment on this job.

As for how luxury companies are thinking of repair, Jacobs said: “At the higher end of the luxury spectrum, they have offered this for a while as a small-scale, unloved side operation in the corner.

“I think that’s all shifting with the awareness of sustainability, the pressure to be more circular,” she added. “They’re under enormous pressure not only from consumers but also from regulators and from investors as well to make sure they’re addressing these things in a non-greenwashing way.”

How to Be ‘Brand Compliant’
Doing right by the brand is a foremost thought for some businesses.

For Jessica Henderson, senior curator at Fashionphile (who has been with the company 11 years, and as director of authentication for more than half that time), a regular repair is worlds different from a luxury repair. Fashionphile does minor repairs or cosmetic cleanings, and the company’s term for getting repairs right is “brand compliant.” Anything that takes away from the authenticity of the brand — which can be anything from an incorrectly folded strap, dye job, spot treatment, wrong screws, finish or hardware — is out of compliance and not something Fashionphile messes with.

Henderson gives credit where it’s due to the brand originators of the styles. “[Others] don’t really understand the nuances in materials and construction that the brands have.

“If you are repairing for your own use, luxury is using the highest standards. Chanel used to use real 24-karat gold in the alloy. They stopped doing that in 2009,” she added. “They won’t dye a bag a color other than it was originally, they won’t alter a bag other than it was.”

(Chanel declined comment for this story).

“Brands will not touch it if it’s been altered,” Henderson insisted, and many luxury repair programs require a proof of purchase to utilize free services. In some cases, authentic items have been rejected by brands because there was no receipt or because an alteration had been done. “What they’re meaning is there’s [an alteration] on there that happened. Chanel and Hermès [reject bags] a lot, but they’re doing it for a reason. The products that regular repair centers use are not the same as luxury repair centers,” said Henderson. “Gatekeeping is really a good word. [The brands are] trying to keep it in the house. They’ve been open about not liking the resale service.” As with repair, resale is a recent circular economy unlock in fashion and subject to droves of capital investment.

“Customers are expecting more out of brands now. Not just to buy a Chanel for the name itself. How are you going to ensure this item won’t end up in a landfill?,” Henderson posed. She quoted Fashionphile’s 2021 ultra-luxury resale report with researcher Kantar. “For luxury handbag shoppers, 92 percent [of customers] agree it’s important to buy accessories that will last a long time.”

“We don’t want to do any major alterations,” she said. “Treating and conditioning a bag if it needs it” and “getting it ready for its new home.” There’s no charge (and customers don’t have to ask) for basic in-house services, which include removing forgotten items like cash, crumbs or makeup smears.

For everyday wearers, Henderson does have some tips.

“Condition leathers properly and understand the materials. How to store them is very important,” she said, adding that there are certain no-no’s; don’t lay the chain directly on the lambskin, don’t overstuff your bags, shield them from humidity and never dye them.

Fashionphile is planning to offer more repair services down the road. The company also admitted to outsourcing some work — to 30-year veteran leather craftsman Gerry Gallagher. According to Henderson, he did repairs for Chanel for years, even the gold restoration. Per his business website “Leather Surgeons,” Gallagher has performed repairs and authentications on more than 250,000 Chanel handbags, as well as museum-worthy restorations for the Museum of Natural History. Though Gallagher used to be based in the Garment District, he is now based in Philadelphia and is training his sons to preserve the art and craft of luxury repair.

Few get to be as trusted, and Gallagher has a few words on the matter.

“At the end of the day, you just need to walk the walk and put the customer’s interests first,” he said. “That’s led us to do things that have cost us a lot of money in the short term, but I think it’s the reason I’ve ended up in the position I’m in. I spend hours every day on the phone with customers, we write letters to help people get their money back if they’ve bought a counterfeit bag, we talk customers out of repairs that we don’t think would be in their interest — God knows how many free restorations we’ve done. You just have to look at your little corner of the world and try to be the person it needs, as best you can. If you do that year after year, you’ll earn people’s trust.”

He also maintains a stance to “preserve and restore handbags as best I can to what they originally were.” Not that Gallagher condemns drastic changes (but he’d personally never do anything like dye or embellish a designer bag). He, too, abides by what he calls “brand etiquette.”

“You can have a piece of fashion history and, if you take care of it and understand the right way to restore it, it can still be here when you are gone,” he said. To that he surmised, “The best restoration is the one you don’t notice.”

>>> US Research Calls

Research Calls

  • Upgrades:
    • Biogen (BIIB) upgraded to Buy from Neutral at Mizuho; tgt raised to $270
    • Biogen (BIIB) upgraded to Outperform from Market Perform at BMO Capital Markets; tgt raised to $360
    • Biogen (BIIB) upgraded to Outperform from Neutral at Robert W. Baird; tgt raised to $340
    • Compania Cervecerias Unidas (CCU) upgraded to Neutral from Underweight at JP Morgan; tgt raised to $13
    • Healthpeak (PEAK) upgraded to Outperform from Peer Perform at Wolfe Research; tgt $27
    • Illumina (ILMN) upgraded to Outperform from In-line at Evercore ISI; tgt raised to $250
    • Imerys SA (IMYSF) upgraded to Outperform from Neutral at Exane BNP Paribas
    • Netflix (NFLX) upgraded to Overweight from Neutral at Atlantic Equities; tgt raised to $283
    • South State (SSB) upgraded to Overweight from Neutral at Piper Sandler; tgt raised to $96
    • Steven Madden (SHOO) upgraded to Buy from Neutral at CL King
    • Truist (TFC) upgraded to Overweight from Neutral at Piper Sandler; tgt raised to $55
  • Downgrades:
    • CSX (CSX) downgraded to Neutral from Positive at Susquehanna; tgt lowered to $29
    • Iris Energy (IREN) downgraded to Neutral from Overweight at JP Morgan
    • L3Harris (LHX) downgraded to Equal Weight from Overweight at Wells Fargo; tgt $238
    • Lockheed Martin (LMT) downgraded to Underweight from Equal Weight at Wells Fargo; tgt $415
    • Norfolk Southern (NSC) downgraded to Neutral from Positive at Susquehanna; tgt lowered to $218
  • Others:
    • ADS-TEC Energy GmbH (ADSE) assumed with a Buy at Berenberg; tgt $11
    • AGCO Corp (AGCO) initiated with an Outperform at Robert W. Baird; tgt $156
    • Agenus (AGEN) initiated with an Outperform at SMBC Nikko; tgt $5
    • Almirall SA (LBTSF) initiated with an Outperform at RBC Capital Mkts
    • Aptiv (APTV) assumed with a Buy at Berenberg; tgt $150
    • Brown-Forman (BF.B) initiated with a Buy at Truist; tgt $80
    • CNH Industrial (CNHI) initiated with an Outperform at Robert W. Baird; tgt $17
    • Generac (GNRC) initiated with a Hold at Jefferies; tgt $190
    • Imperial Brands (IMBBY) assumed with an Outperform at Credit Suisse
    • Ipsen S.A. (IPSEY) initiated with a Sector Perform at RBC Capital Mkts
    • JinkoSolar (JKS) initiated with a Buy at HSBC Securities; tgt $76
    • Sunrun (RUN) initiated with an Outperform at Northland Capital; tgt $60
    • Teck Resources (TECK) initiated with a Buy at Jefferies
    • ThyssenKrupp AG (TYEKF) resumed with an Underweight at JP Morgan
    • Vizsla Silver Corp. (VZLA) initiated with a Buy at Stifel
    • Visteon (VC) assumed with a Buy at Berenberg; tgt $152
    • ZoomInfo (ZI) initiated with a Buy at Daiwa Securities; tgt $66

>>> US Gapping down

Gapping down
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:

  • CGNT -15%, ASTL -9.7%, BB -2.4%, PRGS -1.3%

Other news:

  • MNMD -37.9% (prices offering of common shares and warrants)
  • NA -24.2% (prices offering of 2083334 ADSs at $2.40 per ADS)
  • GMDA -20.9% (prices offering of 12905000 of its ordinary shares at $1.55 per share)
  • MFA -15.3% (files mixed securities shelf offering)
  • SAND -7.7% (announces $80 million bought deal financing) DB -5.6% (to settle with SEC agrees to pay $125 mln penalty)
  • CS -4.5% (to settle with SEC agrees to pay $125 mln penalty)
  • FDMT -3% (names new COO)
  • LYFT -2.6% (freezing all US hiring thru end of 2022 according to NY Post)
  • CGC -2.1% (to divest its retail business across Canada)
  • UBER -1.2% (in sympathy with LYFT)

Analyst comments:

  • NSC -1.3% (downgraded to Neutral from Positive at Susquehanna)
  • CSX -0.8% (downgraded to Neutral from Positive at Susquehanna)

>>> US Gapping up

Gapping up
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:

  • THO +2.5%

Other news:

  • ABOS +76.8% (in response with BIIB)
  • BIIB +45.6% (reports Lecanemab confirmatory Phase 3 Clarity AD study met primary endpoint)
  • NNOX +22.8% (submitted a 510(k) premarket notification to the FDA on Sept 26 for its multi-source 3D digital tomosynthesis system)
  • OCGN +9.3% (entered into an exclusive license agreement with Washington University for the rights to develop manufacture and commercialize its proprietary intranasally delivered COVID-19 vaccine in the United States Europe and Japan)
  • SNCR +7.9% (signs 3-yr extension with telecom operator Fastweb)
  • LLY +7.4% (in response with BIIB)
  • CWCO +6% (Hurricane Ian did not cause any damage)
  • FYBR +5.5% (to join S&P Midcap 400)
  • HAIN +4.2% (to move to S&P SmallCap 600 from S&P Midcap 400)
  • GROY +3.1% (stock offering by selling shareholder)

Analyst comments:

  • SHOO +1.8% (upgraded to Buy from Neutral at CL King)
  • ILMN +1.7% (upgraded to Outperform from In-line at Evercore ISI)
  • CCU +0.9% (upgraded to Neutral from Underweight at JP Morgan)

WWD : Paris Scene: What’s New and Hot

Paris Scene: What’s New and Hot
From shops that pop to new eateries, the French capital is having a Renaissance.
PARIS — Paris Fashion Week is back in full swing and with it is a plethora of new shops, eateries and exhibits to check out.
Shops That Pop
L’Ingénieur Chevallier traces its roots back to 1740, when the grandfather of Jean Gabriel Augustin Chevallier became optician to France’s King Louis XV. Chevallier went on to invent the microscope and opera glasses, with his company eventually becoming official supplier of the French army. Now owned by family-held eyewear specialist Maison Bonnet, its Rue des Pyramides store, first opened in the ’20s, has been revamped by noted designer Pierre Bonnefille. It will offer limited-edition models handmade in Burgundy by a master craftsman alongside selections from high-end niche labels.

Long live the queen — of knits and stripes. Sonia Rykiel opened a pop-up store on Monday on tony Rue Royale, distilling the colorful and graphic universe of the late French designer in a 1,300-square-foot space, where bright hues are juxtaposed with brushed metal, mirrors and mesh decor, and there are references to Rykiel’s love for books, too. Like their New York counterparts, Parisian shoppers will be able to get their hands on the Rykiel Forever signature knitwear, glitzy Velvet Strauss styles and the “Mai ’68” fall 2022 collection.
From Thursday through Sunday, the Kitsuné flagship on the Rue de Richelieu will transform itself into “Kitsuné Market,” a retro pop-up inspired by Korean culture and ’80s convenience stores, centered around the work of artist and illustrator Tree13, who created an anime-inflected, illustrated campaign for the French label. And for anyone wanting a further taste of Kitsuné’s Korean adventures, its Louvre outpost just steps away will offer an exclusive menu with Paris-based Korean pastry chef Monsieur Caramel beginning Thursday through Oct. 31.
Arive has arrived in Paris, and is partnering with Vestiaire Collective just in time for fashion week. The Munich-based app delivers a curated collection of goods from its Marais “cloudstore” to one’s door in 60 minutes. That features authenticated pieces ranging from Celine sunglasses, Bottega Veneta’s rubber puddle boots, Gucci’s Jackie bag to Fendi baguettes. Centered on iconic accessories, new items will join the collection each week. The normal selection is still on tap on the app, meanwhile. Arive’s goods are delivered via its eco-friendly bike fleet to solve even the most pressing fashion week emergency. — Lily Templeton and Rhonda Richford
L’Ingénieur Chevallier
17 Rue des Pyramides, 75001
18 Rue Royale, 75001
Kitsuné Market
Pop-up: 52 Rue de Richelieu, 75001
Café: 2 Place André Malraux, 75001
Arive
Online: Ariveapp.com
In-store: 3 Rue Portefoin, 75003
Fine Food — and Drink
To kick of celebrations of his eponymous fragrance brand’s 15th anniversary, Kilian Hennessy is hosting an ephemeral bar at the Hôtel Plaza Athénée during Paris Fashion Week, through Oct. 9. There, people can discover scents from Kilian Paris’ five olfactive families, including Les Citrus Frais and Les Fleurs Narcotique. Personalized olfactive consultations are offered, too. Also on the menu are signature cocktails from the Plaza Athénée inspired by Kilian fragrances. Events are being scheduled in 15 capitals worldwide to help celebrate the brand’s birthday.

Paris is at one’s feet — and Instagram feed — from the terrace of Bonnie, the latest Paris Society restaurant and club on the 15th and 16th floors of the SO/Paris hotel, where lobster rolls, an impressive Cobb salad and a host of mouthwatering cocktails are nearly eclipsed by the jaw-dropping vista. The mirrored ceiling that extends onto the terrace and kaleidoscopic elements are part of “The Seeing City,” an immersive artwork, where light and weather conditions become part of an ever-changing display. It’s by Ólafur Eliasson and Sebastian Benham, with the participation of Studio Other Spaces.
Perched 187 feet up on the first floor of the Eiffel Tower with a sweeping view of the Trocadéro, Madame Brasserie owes her name to the Iron Lady herself and the local, seasonal and not-so-traditional French cuisine imagined by star chef Thierry Marx. His stated challenge “was to make a simple, healthy and pleasurable cuisine that is as durable as the monument itself.” On the menu are classics such as onion soup or escargots bathed in herby garlic butter, alongside quinoa from the Île-de-France region around Paris and a plant-based pavlova.
Michelin-starred chef Bruno Verjus described himself as “a being of the sea,” so for the freshly opened 65-seat restaurant Cavalieri, he wanted diners to experience “a form of magic” that will transport them “by the sea, by boat, ready to discover new horizons.” No compass needed to find one’s way to fresh vegetables with a swirl of za’atar oil, the catch of the day with a zucchini “pizza” on the side or a chocolate mousse livened up by a sprinkle of chili flakes and olive confit on the menu executed by brothers Kevin and Cristian Stradaioli. — L.T. and Jennifer Weil
Hôtel Plaza Athénée x Kilian Paris
25 Avenue Montaigne, 75008
Bonnie
10 Rue Aggripa d’Aubigné, 75004
Open daily. Lunch from noon to 5 p.m., dinner from 7 p.m. to midnight
Madame Brasserie
First floor of the Eiffel Tower, 75007
Entry through the south pillar
All-day dining, with two services for lunch (noon and 1:30 p.m.) and for dinner (6:30 p.m. and 9 p.m.). Reservations recommended.

Cavalieri
71 Avenue Paul Doumer, 75001
Open daily for lunch and dinner.

Art Attack
The Musée d’Orsay, in collaboration with the Munich Museum in Oslo, is featuring an exhibition devoted to the Norwegian painter Edvard Munch. Sixty years of his creative work full of symbolism are on display there.
Across the Seine river, the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris has a show on devoted to artist Oskar Kokoschka, called “Enfant Terrible in Vienna.” It marks the first retrospective of the Austrian’s work, and traces 70 years of his image-making.
Sergei Pavlov, winner of the American Vintage Photography Award at the 36th edition of the Hyères International Festival of Fashion, Photography and Fashion Accessories, is displaying a personal series, entitled “Sea Songs,” made of nine black-and-white photos in two of the fashion brand’s Paris stores.
American photographer Gray Malin headed to Paris to capture top dogs, including PR guru Lucien Pagès’ pugs, in the Hôtel Plaza Athénée and around town. The “Dogs of Paris” series will be unveiled on Tuesday, on the artist’s site graymalin.com.
— J.W. and L.T.
Musée d’Orsay
“Edvard Munch. A Poem of Life, Love and Death,” through Jan. 22, 2023
1 Rue de la Légion d’Honneur, 75007
Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris
“Oskar Kokoschka: Enfant Terrible in Venice,” through Feb. 12, 2023
11 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116
American Apparel
“Sea Songs,” through Saturday
62 Rue Tiquetonne, 75002
32 Rue Étienne Marcel, 75001

WWD : Burberry Shares Surge After Daniel Lee Named Chief Creative Officer

Burberry Shares Surge After Daniel Lee Named Chief Creative Officer
The financial markets, luxury and retail analysts, gave CEO Jonathan Akeroyd's first big hire a thumb's up on Wednesday.

LONDON – Burberry’s share price was on the rise in mid-morning trading on Wednesday after new chief executive officer Jonathan Akeroyd revealed his first big hire: former Bottega Veneta designer Daniel Lee as chief creative officer.

Burberry’s shares on the London Stock Exchange were up 4.4 percent to 17.58 pounds in mid-morning trading. Overall, the FTSE 100 was down 1.1 percent at 6,910.6 in a market rattled by Prime Minister Liz Truss’ mini-budget, the plummeting pound and fears of spiralling inflation.

Analysts were positive, too, with Luca Solca of Bernstein describing Lee as an “appropriate choice, as he has demonstrated the ability to create a highly successful new chapter for Bottega Veneta.”

Solca said that handbags and shoes “are the two potentially most promising developments for Burberry. So far, the British brand has struggled to make its mark in these categories and create high profile iconic products. Daniel could open this opportunity.”

Lee, who made an abrupt departure from the Kering-owned Bottega Veneta late last year shortly after the brand’s spring 2022 runway show in Detroit, Michigan, helped to revive the Italian brand, turning it into a hot ticket and trend-setting label.

He injected a new and youthful spirit to the collections, and his zeitgeist-y designs were the talk of social media, and the wider fashion industry. He was widely tipped to take over the top creative job at Burberry, taking over from Riccardo Tisci, who has left the brand just days after showing his spring 2023 collection.

Lee delivered top-selling accessories, including the Pouch bag, the Cassette bag and the Lido sandals, and built momentum for Bottega with disruptive strategies such as erasing its Instagram account and staging traveling fashion shows in locations including London, Berlin and Detroit.

At the 2019 Fashion Awards in London, Lee – who had joined Bottega Veneta a year earlier – took home a record four prizes, including designer of the year and brand of the year. He was previously director of ready-to-wear design at Celine, which he joined in 2012, and he has also worked at Maison Margiela, Balenciaga and Donna Karan.

On Wednesday, following Burberry’s announcement, RBC wrote that Lee is “widely credited for setting the foundations and early success at Bottega Veneta in its recent turnaround endeavors, however [he] left the brand in November 2021 for undisclosed reasons after three years at the brand.”

The bank added that since Burberry’s offer is 50 percent replenishment and 50 percent seasonal stock, “we do not expect a large product reset and expect a fairly orderly transition given the timing.”

Lee will join Burberry on Oct. 3. He will be based at the company’s headquarters in London and report to Akeroyd. Lee’s debut collection will be shown during London Fashion Week in February 2023.

RBC said that, overall, it views the announcement as positive, “as some investors believe Burberry requires a fresh perspective from a creative and design perspective, despite the material improvements in recent years.”

Lee’s appointment comes amid a backrop of sweeping changes at Burberry, with Akeroyd set to present his strategic vision for the business at the company’s interim results meeting on Nov. 11.

As reported, Julie Brown, Burberry’s well-respected chief financial officer and chief operating officer, confirmed last week she was leaving the business and Burberry said a search for her successor is underway. Next year Brown will join the British pharma giant GSK as CFO, part of a female management team.

>>> US Early premarket gappers

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