>>> US Gapping up

Gapping up
In reaction to earnings/guidance
:
  • AMSC +18.6%, RMD +8.8%, NOK +8.2%, NTCT +7.9%, IBM +7.3%, TAL +6.8%, AAL +4.8%, URI +4% (also intends to repurchase $1.5 bln in 2024 and intends to raise dividend by 10%), BX +3.2%, LVS +3.1%, CMCSA +2.2%, NFBK +1.9%, CNX +1.8%, NEE +1.8%, LUV +1.6%, EXP +1.5%, CCI +1.4% (also says CFO will remain), WRB +1.4%, VLO +1.4%, RES +1.4%, NEP +1.4%, ALK +1.1%, MKC +1.1%, MBLY +0.9%, LRCX +0.7%, NOW +0.5% (also announces alliance with Visa to transform payment services)
Other news:
  • VERA +11.3% (announced positive 72-week data from the open label extension (OLE) period of its Phase 2b ORIGIN clinical trial of atacicept in participants with IgA nephropathy)
  • TIGR +5.3% (Announces Uplift of Type 1 License by Hong Kong SFC to include Virtual Asset dealing service for Professional Investors)
  • INGN +3.2% (names new CFO)
  • ADT +2.1% (exits residential solar business increases dividend by 57% authorizes $350 mln repurchase plan) SSL +2.1% (Production)
  • KAI +1.3% (acquires KWS Manufacturing)
  • HLN +1.1% (divests ChapStick)
  • SAVE +1% (announces convertible note adjustments)
Analyst comments:
  • ALTI +6.2% (upgraded to Strong Buy from Mkt Perform at Raymond James)
  • RDCM +3.2% (upgraded to Buy from Hold at Needham)
  • CAR +2.6% (upgraded to Buy from Hold at Deutsche Bank)
  • HEI +1.6% (upgraded to Buy from Neutral at BofA Securities)
  • NFLX +0.9% (upgraded to Buy from Hold at DZ Bank)
  • RTX +0.9% (upgraded to Neutral from Underperform at BofA Securities)

WSJ : Armed With New $3.8 Billion Fund, Arlington Capital Forms Defense Manufact

Armed With New $3.8 Billion Fund, Arlington Capital Forms Defense Manufacturer Keel
Keel Holdings combines three companies, including investments from Arlington’s just-closed $3.8 billion fund, and aims to build a supply base for the military to speed up production

Arlington Capital Partners is launching a company that seeks to build a nuclear-powered vessel supply network for the military, and the private-equity firm is backing the deal from a newly raised $3.8 billion fund.

Keel Holdings will serve as a subcontractor on key defense programs, including helping build Columbia-class ballistic-missile submarines and Virginia-class attack submarines. Much like aerospace companies have done on the commercial side, the South Carolina-based company aims to speed up vessel delivery by building an integrated supply network as the U.S. ramps up defense production.

Bethesda, Md.-based Arlington formed Keel through the merger of Pegasus Steel, which the firm acquired last year, with more recently acquired Merrill Technologies Group, in Michigan, and Metal Trades, also in South Carolina.

The firm is forming Keel as the U.S. aggressively pushes to expand and modernize its submarine fleet in the face of potential threats from Russia and China.

“The Chinese now have a fleet that’s larger than ours,” said Ben Ramundo, an Arlington principal who led the Keel investment with Managing Partner Peter Manos. “The demand to right-size that ratio is putting a lot of pressure on the supply chain.”

Ramundo added that the production strain is most acute when it comes to building submarines.

Manos, a veteran of global private-markets firm Carlyle Group who joined Arlington in 2002, said Arlington started to dig into potential investments about five years ago to address a military production bottleneck. He added that the firm zeroed in on building a company whose work centered on working with major contractors, or original equipment manufacturers,” for nuclear-powered vessels, often referred to as the “Nuclear Navy.”

Manos said Arlington plans to invest more than $400 million of equity in Keel over the length of its holding. The investment will support acquisitions to expand the company geographically and access new labor pools, as well as to build a “soup to nuts” structure that can fully outfit the large modules that are then transported to vessels for final assembly. The Merrill acquisition, for example, allowed Keel to tap in to a new pool of key workers in Michigan, Manos said.

One of the oldest private-equity investors in defense and government services, Arlington has already spent about 40% of the $3.8 billion Arlington Capital Partners VI fund, which closed above target and is more than double a predecessor vehicle that closed in 2019 with $1.7 billion in commitments. Other investments from the new fund include defense and aerospace engine parts manufacturer Kinetic Engine Systems and government-focused software provider Avenu Insights & Analytics.

Arlington Managing Partner Matt Altman said the latest fund drew a group of new investors as well as significant support from previous fund investors. He added that prior investors increased their commitment sizes by a total of about 25%. Investors that have publicly disclosed commitments to Arlington’s new fund include the California Public Employees’ Retirement System, the New Mexico State Investment Council and the Wyoming State Loan and Investment Board. Arlington itself, including its operating executives and advisers, ranks among the largest inventors in the new fund, Altman said.

Founded around 1999, Arlington is run by managing partners Altman, Manos, Michael Lustbader and David Wodlinger. The firm typically takes control positions in U.S. midmarket companies and grows them through acquisitions. It focuses on regulated industries from aerospace and defense to government services and healthcare companies and emphasizes what Altman calls “purple initiatives,” investment areas with bipartisan support that are largely shielded from political dissension.

Keel’s focus puts the company squarely in that realm. The U.S. efforts to increase defense production have been beset by challenges with fewer suppliers, shipyards and workers able to meet the demand.

Eric Labs, a navy analyst for the Congressional Budget Office, previously told The Wall Street Journal that it would take the U.S. six years to build the same number of ships as China under current conditions.

The U.S. Navy has identified the Columbia-class submarine as its top priority program and plans to purchase 12 of the nuclear-powered, ballistic-missile submarines to replace the aging Ohio-class boats.

Ballistic-missile submarines are used to launch intercontinental missiles, while attack submarines are armed with cruise missiles designed to hit closer-range land and sea targets.

U.S. shipbuilder General Dynamics Electric Boat is the prime contractor for the design and construction of the Columbia-class submarines, according to government documents. Huntington Ingalls Industries’ Newport News Shipbuilding division is Electric Boat’s major subcontractor. Newport News also builds the Ford-class aircraft carrier.

Keel will subcontract with General Dynamics Electric Boat and HII’s Newport News Shipbuilding and predominantly focus on submarine production, Manos said. Arlington said the company has nine facilities in South Carolina and Michigan, including frontage to deep water to help with the transport to submarine and aircraft carrier customers for final assembly.

The combined company is led by Pegasus Steel Chief Executive Brian Carter, a one-time General Dynamics NASSCO executive who most recently worked for Canadian green-building startup Nexii Building Solutions.

>>> US Early premarket gappers

Early premarket gappers
  • Gapping up:
    • AMSC +17.5%, RMD +8.8%, NOK +8.5%, IBM +7.2%, TIGR +7%, TAL +5.9%, URI +4%, INGN +3.2%, SLG +3%, LVS +2.9%, SSL +2.1%, DKL +1.9%, NFBK +1.9%, CCI +1.8%, BB +1.4%, WRB +1.4%, WDC +1.3%, KAI +1.3%, ADT +1.3%, HLN +1.2%, HPE +1.1%, NOW +0.9%, ALK +0.9%
  • Gapping down:
    • COLB -14.2%, LQDA -12.9%, HXL -8.2%, TSLA -7.9%, VIRT -6.8%, CNXC -5.6%, LBRT -5.6%, PLXS -5.2%, AMP -4.4%, ETD -3.9%, CASH -3.5%, TRML -3.1%, BA -3.1%, CVBF -2.8%, TOWN -2%, STM -2%, KNX -1.7%, LPG -1.7%, PKG -1.5%, F -1.4%, STX -1.4%, SAVE -1%, GM -0.8%

FT : Are deals back?

Are deals back?
Plus, modelling private credit expected returns

Ethan here; Rob is off. Disappointing earnings and gloomy guidance sent Tesla shares down 6 per cent after-hours yesterday. Which raises an interesting question: if an EV-specific bust leads to Tesla underperforming, how long will the Magnificent Seven grouping survive?

The M&A comeback
For the better part of two years, dealmaking has been in a lull. The contours are familiar. The combination of rising interest rates, macro and geopolitical instability, and the comedown from the pandemic boom created huge uncertainty around valuations. Sellers and buyers ended up far apart on prices, so transaction volume collapsed everywhere from private equity and venture capital to IPOs and investment banking. 

But with the soft landing/falling rates consensus solidifying, predictions for an imminent M&A comeback are suddenly everywhere. This Davos dispatch in the Financial Times last week captured the mood:

“Sellers have conceded to lower valuations and the pressure to meet a certain return on investment is ticking,” Pete Stavros, co-head of global private equity at KKR, told the FT at the World Economic Forum in Davos . . . 

“For the last 24 months, there has been a disconnect on valuation expectation between buyers and sellers. There is now a real sense of pragmatism setting in,” said Anna Skoglund, who leads the European financial and strategic investors group at Goldman Sachs . . . 

. . . Buyers were standing ready to strike a flurry of deals as prices began to reflect new realities such as higher financing costs and more uncertain economic conditions, said executives at some of the industry’s largest groups.

“This is a good time to lean in,” said Scott Nuttall, co-chief executive of KKR said. “There is less competition for deals and multiples have come down.”

It’s not just Davos chatter, either. In a note to clients published this week, Emmanuel Cau of Barclays lays out the case that the deals bounceback has already begun. He points to:

A small M&A uptick. Measured by volume or by value, deal flow rose in the fourth quarter of 2023, compared with the quarter before:

  • Better vibes in the C-suite. Positive talk in public from investment banking and private equity chief executives fits with improving US business confidence surveys.

  • Financial strength in corporate America. Earnings are growing again, analyst earnings expectations are optimistic, corporate balance sheets aren’t highly leveraged and cash balances are high. Spare funds for M&A are out there.

  • Valuations aren’t crazy. Excluding big tech, forward earnings multiples for US stocks are within the historical range and in line with other markets’ multiples, as Rob discussed last week. 

  • Credit markets are roaring. Investment-grade bond issuance has had a record start to the year, as the FT’s Harriet Clarfelt wrote over the weekend. This should support M&A, as IG bonds are an important source of deal financing.

  • Markets are already catching on. There has been an anticipatory rally in the shares of listed PE firms, which would most benefit from an M&A recovery, as the chart below shows:

This case is helped by the fact that more dealmaking is precisely what you’d expect in a reasonably strong economy with a declining cost of capital. As Cau writes, “the main impediments to capital market activity look to be reversing all at once”. (If you want to see more charts from his note, Bryce Elder has written a nice piece over at FT Alphaville.)

One nagging question is what equilibrium dealmaking activity is returning to. Improvement from a low baseline doesn’t mean we’re back to the rollicking deals market of 2021, in other words. This matters especially for private equity shops, which are hanging on to a record $2.8tn backlog of unsold investments. Livelier capital markets are encouraging, but one has to suspect PE’s problems are far from over.

What returns to expect from private credit
Should M&A return, it could well energise an already frenetic corner of finance: private credit. 

Unhedged has written at tedious length about private credit, 2023’s hottest asset class. To recap, “private credit” generally means direct loans to companies, often involving a private equity backer and a small handful of lenders (or even just one). In 2023, the amount of capital committed to private credit totalled $1.5tn. Of that total, $400bn is “dry powder”, committed but not yet deployed funds. At risk of straining the metaphor, the deals drought has meant dry powder staying dry. Fewer deals, fewer opportunities for direct lenders. Now, with the IPO market perhaps poised to reopen, all that money has to find somewhere to go.

So what returns should investors expect from private credit? I put this question to Peter Hecht, managing director at AQR and a former finance professor at Harvard Business School. He and his colleagues recently refreshed their estimates of five-to-10-year return expectations across asset classes, including a stab at modelling private credit.

Hecht uses a yield-based model, trying to extrapolate expected returns based on current market pricing relative to history. From there, his starting point is a 2018 academic paper studying returns at hundreds of private credit funds since 2004. The paper finds that private credit performance, net of fees, is nearly identical to public market benchmarks for high-yield bonds and leveraged loans (with betas around 1 to 1.2 and virtually no alpha).

Given such striking similarities in performance, Hecht argues you can model private credit returns as HY bonds, subject to two adjustments. First, he accounts for the prevalence of floating-rate debt in private credit (as opposed to fixed-rate bonds); second, for the greater use of leverage by PC. The result: an expected real return of 3.6 per cent. That compares to 3 per cent for HY, 3.8 per cent for US equities, and 4.2 per cent for global equities. Private credit returns look competitive, but not extraordinarily so.

These are broad market returns, the sort available with a perfectly average private credit manager. An especially skilled fund manager can generate better returns, but not every investor is going to pick a winner. Hecht told me:

Private credit and private equity should be in investors’ portfolios, if you can do the underwriting. But I’d say the typical investor is a little overconfident. They think there’s structural alpha in those asset classes, even without any manager selection skills. I think people need to be more humble about their private allocations.

Dry powder beware.

FT : Chinese retail investors hit by big losses in ‘snowball’ derivatives

Chinese retail investors hit by big losses in ‘snowball’ derivatives
Wipeout in contracts sold as safe investments is feeding erosion of confidence in domestic stocks, analysts say

Chinese retail investors who loaded up on derivatives that rely on calm market conditions have been hit with heavy losses, further undermining confidence in the country’s sputtering equity market.

So-called snowballs, which promise a stream of sizeable interest payments as long as stock indices trade within a certain range, have grown to an estimated Rmb320bn ($45bn) market in China.

Brokerages and private wealth managers increased sales of such derivatives — named because of the steady returns they can accumulate for holders — in 2021, touting the higher yields on offer at a time when equity markets were relatively placid.

But a protracted stock rout since late 2023 has led to indices breaching a lower limit embedded in the contracts, triggering so-called knock-ins that leave many holders facing substantial losses on their original investment unless stocks rebound.

Most of the estimated Rmb327.5bn of outstanding snowballs are tied to the CSI 500 index of Shanghai- and Shenzhen-listed stocks and its small-cap counterpart the CSI 1000, according to Zhao Wei, an analyst Sinolink Securities.

Zhao said there had been a “wave” of snowballs “knocked in” when some Chinese stocks sank to a five-year low this week. Markets have since been steadied by Chinese Premier Li Qiang’s promise of “forceful” state support to halt the sell-off.

Retail investors are now left nursing big losses on investments they say were marketed as relatively safe alternatives to bank deposits.

“The sales team will start the marketing by asking this to their clients: do you believe the CSI 500 could fall by more than 20 per cent? If not, you should buy a snowball as a safe bet,” said the head of a medium-sized Chinese brokerage that sells snowballs.

Stephanie Liu, a 34-year-old clerk working in Shanghai, clubbed together with friends to buy Rmb1mn worth of snowballs in June 2022. The contracts offered a 15 per cent yield over two years as long as the CSI 500 did not fall more than 20 per cent or rise more than 3 per cent.

Now her contract is on the verge of a “knock-in” threshold that would trigger a 20 per cent loss on her original capital unless there is a significant market rebound by June.

“I feel helpless and guilty [because of] my friends,” she said. “It is a situation that has no solution. It’s not the right question to ask why we bought snowballs, but why the index is performing like this.”

Despite their small size relative to the Chinese equity market as a whole, analysts said the wipeout for some snowball holders could exacerbate the country’s stock rout. Brokerages that sell the contracts typically buy stock futures to hedge their position. When knock-ins are triggered, they have to sell those hedges.

“In a downturn market, futures trading in link with snowball positions could intensify the selling pressure on Chinese stocks,” said Yu Mingming, an analyst at brokerage Cinda Securities.

The China Securities Regulatory Commission urged brokers in 2021 to strengthen their risk controls on snowballs and refrain from marketing them as fixed-income products. Still, the sector remains relatively loosely regulated.

The CSRC did not immediately reply to a request for comment.

Complex derivatives in products such as snowballs have backfired for Asian investors before.

In 2009 several major banks lost heavily after South Korean courts extricated hundreds of companies from contracts that could prove ruinous if the won moved outside set ranges.

South Korean retail investors’ appetite for so-called autocallables has also been blamed for hurting European stocks and depressing US stock volatility.

FT : Publicis plans €300mn AI investment after exceeding growth targets

Publicis plans €300mn AI investment after exceeding growth targets
Decision comes as advertising industry faces existential threats from generative artificial intelligence

Publicis will invest €300mn as part of an AI strategy designed to secure the Paris-based group’s long-term future in an advertising industry facing existential threats from new technology. 

Senior advertising executives have warned that generative artificial intelligence could challenge the position of the established advertising groups by making it easier for their clients to carry out their own marketing activities and allow tech companies to offer rival services.

Even without these external challenges, many expect the use of AI technology to lead to fewer jobs within the larger groups, as areas such as media planning and buying are automated and creative ideas can be carried out more quickly and cheaply. 

In a strategy update on Thursday, Publicis said that the plans would put AI technology at the “core” of its business.

The Paris group, which owns advertising and market agencies around the globe, said that its AI strategy would allow all 100,000 of its staff to use consumer data for 2.3bn profiles of people across the world, with “trillions of data points about content, media, and business performance”. 

Among its objectives, Publicis said that this would allow greater accuracy for media planning, buying and optimisation, as well as personalised advertising “at scale” for brands owned by its clients.

In results posted on Thursday, Publicis said that it increased organic net revenue 6.3 per cent last year, above the guidance range reported in October, with 5.7 per cent growth in the fourth quarter. 

The group generates about 60 per cent of revenue in the US, which grew 5 per cent last year, while its European operations grew 10.3 per cent in 2023.

Arthur Sadoun, chief executive, said that all staff would become data analysts, able to access information pulled from different parts of the group alongside AI tools to create marketing campaigns.

Sadoun said that its investment in AI would not lead to any job losses, although predicted that people would have “different jobs” in the future. “We can create jobs through our growth. AI is going to radically change how we operate.”

Publicis has already invested heavily in its data-led services, including through the acquisitions of digital groups Sapient in 2015 and Epsilon in 2019 to add to its technology platforms. In 2018, Publicis launched an AI tool for its staff to use, called Marcel.

The group said it will invest €100mn in 2024, half on training and recruitment of staff and the rest on technology, such as licences, IT software and cloud infrastructure. This will have no dilutive impact on its operating margin in 2024, it said, and is expected to be slightly accretive to margins in 2025.

FT : If team transitory was right, the Fed can cut rates whenever it wants

If team transitory was right, the Fed can cut rates whenever it wants

It’s 2021 again. We have rising Covid cases, poor prospects for British athletes at the Olympics, and a public fight about transitory inflation. 

Back then, the argument made by “team transitory” economists (and Jay Powell, for a while) was that price pressures were mostly attributable to lockdowns, jams in supply chains and Russia’s war in Ukraine. But inflation picked up pace and prices rose in an increasing number of sectors, even as economies reopened. The Fed abandoned “transitory” and started raising interest rates. By the time CPI passed 9 per cent in 2022, the argument seemed dead. 

But the dramatic drop in inflation in the last year, without a commensurate increase in unemployment, has revived the fight. Joseph Stiglitz, the Nobel-prize-winning economist, in November published “A Victory Lap for the Transitory Inflation Team”, which does what the headline promises. He says the “self-correcting” trajectory of car and house prices shows that inflation was transitory all along. The problem was one of supply — not enough cars, for example — rather than too much demand from consumers with more to spend thanks to post-Covid economic recovery programmes. 

The implication is that the Fed’s enormous interest rate increases are not primarily responsible for the slowdown in inflation in 2023. 

“What role did the US Federal Reserve play in all this? Given that its interest-rate hikes did not help resolve the chip shortages, it cannot take any credit for the disinflation in car prices. Worse, the rate hikes probably slowed the disinflation in housing prices. Not only do significantly higher rates inhibit construction; but they also make mortgages more expensive, thus forcing more people to rent instead of buy. And if there are more people in the market for rentals, rental prices — a core component in the consumer price index — will increase,” says Stiglitz.

The stakes of this argument are higher than in an ordinary spat among macroeconomists. If the Fed’s hikes were not responsible for bringing down inflation, the bank can cut interest rates whenever it likes without threatening an acceleration.

That’s the view of Ajay Rajadhyaksha, FT Alphaville contributor and global chair of research at Barclays:

It is not clear to me that it was rate hikes that ultimately brought inflation down. Very thoughtful economists said that unemployment had to rise dramatically to bring inflation down — and it hasn’t. We are back down to near 2 per cent inflation, but the labour market hasn’t slowed. There’s an argument that “team transitory” was right all along — though it took longer than expected,

The continued strength of the labour market is the key point here. Economists including Larry Summers, Jason Furman and Laurence Ball argued that unemployment was going to have to rise dramatically for the Fed to bring inflation down. These arguments are rooted in the concept of the Phillips curve, which maintains that unemployment and inflation have an inverse relationship. 

The Fed’s preferred gauge of inflation — the core personal consumption expenditures index — today stands at 3.2 per cent, having fallen from a peak of 5.6 per cent in early 2022. Over that same period, unemployment has been virtually flat, moving from 3.8 per cent in February 2022 to 3.7 per cent today. 

Without mass lay-offs, it’s harder to argue that inflation was a demand-side problem, one in which Americans had too much cash on hand. Inflation has come down despite the fact that unemployment remains low and wage growth has been strong. The changes in demand haven’t been big enough to explain the change in inflation. 

Claudia Sahm, former Fed economist and originator of the “Sahm rule” recession indicator, has been a member of “team transitory” from the start. The steady rate of US unemployment proves inflation was a supply, not demand, issue, she says. 

“If this was all about demand, we would be in trouble. We would be in a situation more like the 1970s. The fact we had inflation come down so much, and unemployment not rise too much, meant we didn’t need a recession to get inflation down. If inflation had been driven by demand, we would have needed a recession to get inflation down,” said Sahm.  

The Fed does not yet seem convinced by these arguments. Governor Christopher Waller last week said “Well, if these are temporary supply shocks, when they unwind, the price level should go back to where it was. It’s not. Go to Fred. Pull up CPI. Take the log. Look at that thing. The [price level] is permanently higher. That doesn’t happen with supply shocks. That comes from demand. And this was a permanent increase in demand and permanent increase in debt.”

That’s not exactly true. Inflation has been frustratingly persistent in some parts of the economy, like core services, a category that includes rent. But prices for core goods — a category that includes used cars — had been slowing for much of last year, with some prices even declining. There was a surprise uptick in core goods in December, however, which would be worrisome if it continues. 

Other counterarguments to team transitory are that the Fed’s interest rate cuts kept market expectations of inflation lower. That may be true, but it is hard to know how much market expectations of inflation actually feed through to the real economy. 

The fight is expected to rage on: it’s impossible to know what would have happened if the Fed had not raised interest rates. The only real way to get an answer would be to cut rates, a little (as a treat), and watch the reaction in inflation data. There’s the added benefit that cutting early would prevent the lay-offs and economic crunch that become more likely the longer that interest rates are high.

But the Fed’s not known for taking preventive action. Nor is it known for making decisions to settle fights between economists. 

Reuters - Levi Strauss sues Italy's Brunello Cucinelli over trademarked tab

Levi Strauss sues Italy's Brunello Cucinelli over trademarked tab

Jan 24 (Reuters) - Levi Strauss (LEVI.N), opens new tab has sued Brunello Cucinelli (BCU.MI), opens new tab, accusing the Italian luxury fashion brand of infringing its trademarked rectangular pocket tab.
In a complaint filed on Tuesday night in San Francisco federal court, Levi provided 14 photos of Brunello Cucinelli clothing containing "nearly identical" copies of its tab, which the retailer of denim and other clothing trademarked in 1938.
Levi said consumers will likely be confused, and it will likely lose sales and suffer "incalculable and irreparable damage" to its goodwill and reputation unless Brunello Cucinelli stops selling its infringing clothing.

WWD : Zadig & Voltaire Founder Thierry Gillier Takes Over Artistic Director Role

Zadig & Voltaire Founder Thierry Gillier Takes Over Artistic Director Role; Arnaud Gillier Named President
The shake-up will see creative director Cecilia Bönström and chief executive officer Rémy Baume depart.

PARIS — Zadig & Voltaire founder Thierry Gillier is shaking things up at his accessible luxury house.

PARIS — Zadig & Voltaire founder Thierry Gillier is shaking things up at his accessible luxury house.

Gillier will take over the role of artistic director of the brand, as well as the management of the 150-person strong design studio. Current artistic director Cecilia Bönström will depart, effective immediately.

In addition, he brought his brother Arnaud Gillier on board as president of the company, effective Jan. 17. Current chief executive officer Rémy Baume will also leave his position. Baume will depart at the end of February, after transitioning his duties to Arnaud.

Gillier, 64, started the business in 2007. He framed the latest moves as both returning the brand direction to its rock ‘n’ roll roots and taking the brand into a new era.

“It’s a big change, but it was an opportunity….We need to move forward. It’s become more of a family house, and this is what I wanted,” Gillier told WWD.

“I can really be in the creative department and Arnaud focusing on the business. I don’t want to do that anymore,” Gillier said. “He’s really more of a business guy.”

The two cofounded a textile company called ATG, which operated for a decade before Gillier founded Zadig & Voltaire. They also come from a knitwear manufacturing family in the French city of Troyes.

Arnaud stepped away from the family business for a career in tech and pharma, working with investment funds on takeovers. He will bring this finance knowledge to the company.

Gillier remains the majority shareholder while Luxembourg-based private equity fund Peninsula snapped up a minority 30 percent of the company in 2020 for an undisclosed sum.

Gillier said that a new creative organization will be revealed in the coming months, but indicated that may mean guest designers and he does not plan to hire a marquee name. He will keep hold of the reins of the design studio, and present his first collection in October. Whether he holds a fashion show is yet to be decided.

The brand has held its two most recent fashion shows off calendar around men’s week in Paris. Prior to that they showed in New York.

Gillier said he has continually worked side-by-side with Bönström and was behind successful knitwear designs and other bestsellers.

“I’ve never been out of the studio, and it was time to put my vision again in the studio. Zadig is the biggest rock brand, and we have to focus on that,” he said. “It’s time to move the studio to another level. It needed change and this is good timing.”

That change will encompass both product and communications, though no changes in the staffing levels are anticipated. Gillier maintained that the design team is strong and this redirection is intended to return the brand back to his original vision.

“We have to do better, and have more cohesion and be more creative,” he said. Gillier had been concentrating on managing business matters and is eager to move back to the design side.

For now, the company’s retail strategy will not change, but the structure may shift in the future. “Today we have to rethink everything. We had seen a big rise in the business [pre-COVID-19], but today it is flat, so we have to reinvent for the future.”

The company has 350 points of sale worldwide, and the privately held company reported sales of “around 450 million euros” in 2023, which was stable compared to its 2022 level.

The retail strategy “is a work in progress,” but will not change in the near future.

Accessories account for roughly 40 percent of the business, and Gillier intends to focus on this category in an effort to boost sales, as well as concentrate on the growing category of menswear.

He is also looking at expansion in other categories such as hospitality, following the success of his Chateau Voltaire hotel in Paris. “It has been a real success, and we have a lot of opportunities with that category in the new era,” he said.